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About roma847

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    Filderstadt, Germany

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  1. Thanks Koshey for your kind words, yep, that's it why I'm trying to scratch all these tricky details, because that's what gives it that extra something.
  2. Hello Kirk, this I had tested in my first bending test with a 0.5 mm brass tube, This method is essentially easier than threading in the wires after bending the tube. Another important problem is the marking of the poles (+ -) of the LED wires. Therefore, with the wired LEDs, the cathode is always much shorter than the anode, which is why the marking must be taken into account in any case during further wiring. And also for this one needs a reliable and safe solution, so as not to get confused, possibly through a colored marking or similar. Therefore it would be interesting, how Rich has solved this problem during his crawler lighting, hey Rich?
  3. Thanks Rich for your nice comment. I know, you speak from experience, maybe this mini soldering is really a painful matter, what I could imagine. Well, as not so experienced soldering pro seems to me that the threading of both wires without soldering of one of them at the tube anyway will be the simpler method and less stressful solution for me, whereby the wires should then be threaded in before bending the brass tube.
  4. Hello everybody, once more back to the Tube bending. The wires I have threaded before, especially since that would be one of the two options in the later installation. But since I for myself was unsure how far I had threaded the wires, I have checked it out. And as one can see here, the wires actually went beyond the arch, so they might have been a bit of a bending aid. But there is also this second option here, which had brought a friend at the Raumcon forum into play at that time. In this case, only one wire (anode) needs to be threaded into the tube, the other wire (cathode) could be separated and then soldered at both ends with the brass tube and thus use it as a return conductor (GND). When using brass pipes, of course, there is the risk of sharp edges, which is why you have to debur the separation points at the tube ends carefully or round off, so that the protective varnish of the LED wires stays intact and there is no short circuit is caused. That I have tried with my thinnest drills, first with a drill Ø 0.3 mm, which did not fit into the opening, but hopefully has served for deburring, and then with a drill Ø 0.25 mm for cleaning. Then I have cut my first bent tube to length, also deburred the ends, and then tried to thread in both 0.1mm wires one at a time to test whether or not the bow can be run through. That was the expected tricky affair, and threading alone was not for the faint of eyes. In the process, I first have slided the one wire from the long side into the opening and carefully felt my way to the bending so as not to unnecessarily bend the wire out of shape, which worked out well. And after a short standstill it went around the arch and out at the other end. The second wire then made some more problems and only progressed a few millimeters, then I had to grasp again. But as one can see, it finally came to the fore again at the other end. Whether the threading would be easier from the short side, I do not know what one could try. In any case, the soldering on the tube could be avoided this way. That's it for now, maybe there are still useful tips from this round.
  5. Hello friends, here is another update to the marked three lamps without shade on the Side 1, as well as for the hazard warning lights with this shape here. Source: NASA In my search for even better matching ferrules for this lamp shape, I've actually found something, and indeed at Voelkner, who offers the smallest available size 0.1 - 0.3 mm². And although that are equal to 100 pcs, which I guaranteed will not need, so I grabbed it, and today the package arrived, so of course I had to try it. These sleeves have a shade diameter of 1.5 mm, which corresponds exactly to the width of the MLP girders, and would therefore be even better suited than the previously tested 0.5 mm² sleeves with Ø 1.9 mm (shade). An LED 0402 can also be threaded into the sleeve, as you can see on this picture. To the left are the 0.5 mm² and the 1 mm² sleeves. And if the back part of the shade is slightly widened, then the shade looks like this (right) and its shape would therefore fit even better. But since there probably are no matching transparent or red glass beads for this size, which should have a diameter of approx. 1.3 mm, one would have to apply the glass body above the LED with transparent epoxy resin. But wether that would work, I do not know ... Let's try and see.
  6. Thanks Rich for your good wishes. Hello everybody, Oh well - I can fully agree with you, pipe bending is actually already a tricky thing and can also become a complete flop. But what's the name of it? Well begun is half done! And therefore I made my first bending test with a 0.5 mm brass tube, which looks quite useful already, right? Which in turn confirms my credo: Nothing is impossible!!! BTW, maybe the pulling in of the two 0,1 mm wires is even favorable for the bending of the brass tube, since its diameter is 0.3 mm, which both wires almost fill.
  7. Hello everybody, on closer inspection, however, the lamp Made by Revell is too rustic for me, which I can not make friends with, especially as the tube seems also too thick to me. And since the lamps are getting a bit more filigree anyway, I have taken measurement at the RSS-lamp once more. And behold, my sense of proportion has not deceived me again, because the tube should have a diameter of 0.4 mm, Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (James MacLaren) while the Revell tube with 1 mm is twice as thick, which can be seen in the following photo. This is for comparison a brass tube with Ø 0.5 mm, which would match the lamp size well, compared with the overlying lampshade, which is a little smaller with Ø 2.8 mm than my first samples with about Ø 3 mm (left). And as one can see, the 0.1 mm thin LED wires let also thread into the tube, so everything is okay. All we can hope is that one can bend the tube cleanly around the rounding without a kink, but we'll manage that too, I guess.
  8. Big As MAZ

    Hi Rich, it's a pity that you now hide all the details again.
  9. Hello everyone, today I have first expanded a handful of the larger ferrules (1 mm²) with a center punch from 2.3 mm to 2.8 mm diameter, for which the cordless screwdriver only needs to run a few revolutions, otherwise one is fast at Ø 3 mm or more. Then I experimented a bit further and tried to expand also the slightly smaller ferrules (0.5 mm²) to Ø 2.8 mm. At this sleeve, the smaller diameter of the tube with 1.4 mm is still slightly smaller than that of the larger ferrule with 1.8 mm, which would fit much better to the socket diameter of my lampshades. The only question was whether the sleeve would endure the expansion, or whether the lampshade would crack. On my first attempt, I was probably a bit too impetuous, which can be clearly seen on the cracked lampshade on the right in the picture. To the left are the expanded 1 mm² ferrules, which did not mind this expanding. Therefore, I proceeded much more cautiously on the second attempt and checked the lampshade diameter from time to time with the caliper gauge. Everything went pretty well up to Ø 2.5 mm, as you can see here, but at Ø 2.8 mm the first mini-cracks appeared on the edge of the lampshade, which is why I will rather use the larger ferrules. And here's already a look ahead to the mainly installed lamp shape on the RSS, here on Pad 39B during the preparation of the Challenger on her last, unfortunately fateful mission STS-51L (1986). Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (James MacLaren) And here are my first attempts compared to a simple lamp from the Revell Kit (right). Probably for these lamps thin brass tubes will later be used into which the LED wires then will be threaded respectively soldered.
  10. Hi Pete, and thanks for looking in on me, glad that you're back and enjoy the lighting, which will soon become reality, initially on the MLP. The Current bank is waiting for its baptism of fire.
  11. Thanks Mark for your sustained interest, at some point the lamps will light up the sky and the beacons flash ...
  12. Thanks Rich, I can still remember very well how I have rubbed my eagle eyes at that time three years ago, when I did a lot of extensive analysis during my Lighting Chapter, as one can see here for the RSS ... Source: NASA Here is another amazing impression of the Pad at night, showing Challenger's countdown for mission STS-41B (1984). Source: NASA But until then there is still a long and challanging way to go ...
  13. Hello friends, after my gallstone calmed down again and can stay on parole for the time being, where he is, I can finally turn the LED switch back again to clarify a few last details with the MLP lamps and try out. First of all, I want to introduce my Super Current Bank, which a friend of mine had designed and built in an ingenious way for illumination of my Launch Pad Diorama. Here again briefly to the profile of this "Marvel Box", whose performance capability we deliberately generously constructed, which provides the following Constant current circuits: - 46 current circuits (adjustable from 0.6 ... 5.6 mA) for the normal lighting of the FSS/RSS, as well as of the MLP and the Crawler, - 6 current circuits (adjustable from 0.6 ... 5.6 mA) for warning lights (switchable to flashing), - 6 current cuits (fixed at 12 mA) for flood light poles on the pad, - 2 current circuits (fixed at 220 mA) for the overall lighting of the diorama In each of the two circuits (220 mA), 2 LEDs can be connected in series. In each of the other circuits, however, up to 8 LEDs can be connected in series. That gives the impressive number of total 464 LEDs (368 + 48 + 48), which I will not exhaust corresponding to my previous planning. Before I react to the red LED (0401) for the Warning lights connected to the Current bank in the picture above, I have scrutinized once again the relevant lamp shapes for my pad model, initially adopted by the Apollo LUTs at the beginning of the Shuttle program and later replaced by more modern lamps. At that time there were lamps both with reflector (Type A) and without reflector (Type E), and this type also with red globe (Type F), as it was used for the warning lights. Source: NASA In the Tower (FSS) and on the RSS the lamps with reflector were mostly installed, Source: NASA Source: NASA for which I have used expanded ferrules (1 mm²) with inserted beads for fixing the LED wires. With the exception of lamps 2 and 3 (yellow) and lamp 2 (light blue), all lamps on the Side 1 are type A and have a reflector, Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6) what one can see a little more clearly in this picture section. Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6) As a reference measurement for the dimensioning of both lamp shapes served me the width of the webs on my MLP walls of 1.5 mm. Source: NASA And so back to the first image with the red LED for the warning lights, which works perfectly with the Current bank, only it does not blink quite as fast as this one. Since these lamps without a reflector are slightly smaller, I have used slightly smaller ferrules (0.5 mm²), which need not be widened as much as the sleeves for the lamps with reflector (left in the picture). The difficulty with these lamps without reflector is to find a suitable glass bead for the glass body, for which I have tried different bead sizes. Here is e.g. a cylindrical shape, and here a roundish bead, which should fit better in size. The sticking point here is that the LED also has to fit into the bead, which is why only the smallest types 0401/0402 with dimensions 1.0 mm x 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm (LxWxH) are suitable for this. Then I still found this smaller bead, which fits even better with this lamp shape without reflector. And with that I want to content myself for today.
  14. Big As MAZ

    Hi Rich, clever solution. This would have been my next question. BTW, how thick is the plastic sheet?
  15. Thanks for your nice words, Gimme Shelter, maybe you'll be right with your guess, the answer my friend ... I would find it great, when my Launch Pad on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the maiden flight of the Challenger in the year 2023 could be inaugurated, in order to name a non-binding house number ...