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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

roma847

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  1. Then let's go on, of course this was reason enough to mend matters right away, which is gone, is gone! Here one can see once again the old, but wrong rear wall (right) of the SRB shaft from the Paper kit, which is now to be exchanged by a piece from the area on its left, which is suitable very well. Here, the two new rear wall panels are already cut out, which were immediately tried on the "High seat", but please with greatest caution! And that looks very well already, and also gives a completely different picture, that I like much better. How good that DaveS has still raised his hand, although late, but not too late.
  2. Hello everybody, let's have a short break, because I have got an interesting post by a nice fellow (DaveS) in the NASASpaceFlight.com Forum, who has written as follows ... Manfred, I have found something that will require you to go back a few steps. It concerns the grid structure on the north walls of the SRB exhaust holes. It isn't launch equipment. It was in fact a temporary support or bracing structure for the walls when MLP-2 was undergoing some rebuild work back in 2004. I have attached a photo from STS-135 which was MLP-2's last launch which clearly shows that the structure isn't there. together with this image. Here is a better photo of his stumbling block, what hasn't been surprising me, because I have seen lots of such images already, and I know them very well ... Source: flickr.com (Jen Scheer) This refers to my previous rear walls of the SRB Exhaust Chambers, as created by David Maier, which can be seen here at the adaptation of the Water Bags. In connection with this this image of a SSWS Test (2004) on the MLP-2 was always on my mind, on which these rear walls are to see. Source: NASA At some time I had even scratched these grid structures, which unfortunately had fallen a victim to my emergency surgery for the adjustment of the SRB shafts , but which I have kept so far. But since I decided to install the Water Bags, I had to renounce it for reasons of space and therefore I used the rear walls from the Paper Kit. Interesting would be the question to David Maier, why he decided for these rear walls ... As an explanatory answer, I sent DaveS the above picture of the SSWS test and said that the back walls also looked like this after the conversion of the MLP-2 in the year 2004 and probably also before were not different, but what still turned out as a fallacy. When viewing the image series of this SSWS test in NASA Media Archive was clarified to me by the detailed information that 2004 some equipment at the MLP-2 were converted or exchanged, as can be read there ... This test is being conducted following the replacement of the six main system valves, which had been in place since the beginning of the Shuttle Program and had reached the end of their service life. Also, the hydraulic portion of the valve actuators has been redesigned and simplified to reduce maintenance costs. especially because the Shuttle missions after the Columbia Disaster (STS-107, 2003) were interrupted for a year and a half. And in his following answer, DaveS has also confirmed that with two pictures for me comprehensibly. In this image of the STS-90 (1998) the known structure of the rear wall of the MLP-2 is to see, that means before the overhaul in 2004. Source: NASA This image of the STS-115 (2006) shows the same structure of the rear wall in closer detail in the rear SRB shaft. Source: NASASpaceFlight.com Forum (DaveS) And if one looks at the following image from the overhaul phase, this frame structure was, in my opinion, should be the uncovered substructure of the rear wall, onto which the standard wall cladding was installed again after the overhaul, which was the same on all three MLPs. Source: NASA So I guess that the rear walls of the MLP-2 at the STS-6 at that time also looked like this and I have to redecorate my rear walls accordingly, but that is no problem, because I still have copies of it.
  3. Thanks Rich for your compliments, I have also learned a lot from your builds so far.
  4. One can see, how many fun you have with the weathering of this stuff, brilliant work!!!
  5. Holy cow! This is really great stuff Rich, you're not only a master of scratch-building, but rather also a master of aging and weathering, in a word, a great artist as I got to know you and what I really appreciate. Thank you for sharing your fantastic work.
  6. Hello everybody, before starting with the rounding of the longer gutters according to the new method with the plastic core strip, I have tried here the lateral gutter end from a rounded rectangle strip 0.25 mm x 1.5 mm. The strip will be cut off only after gluing. But now to the longer part of the Gutter 1, which was pre-rounded first in the largest half-pipe (Ø 7.5 mm) with an aluminum core (Ø 4.0 mm). And this went on in several stages with diminishing diameters of the semiconductors and core wires, starting with Ø 6,4 mm, Ø 6,0 mm, Ø 4,7 mm. down to Ø 3,0 mm. The following rounding with the plastic core strip (1.75 mm) was then carried out on the foam strip, and then by pressing it together in the Balsa "vise". And then it went on with the 1.5 mm core wire on my "pin board" using my Balsa-Clamp technique, with which I have bent already the SSWS pipes. By cleverly clamping, the core wire can be held down with the inserted gutter, while at the same time in the interspace the gutter wall can be smoothed almost perfectly by swaying the balsa board back and forth. And by re-clamping the arrangement one can also reach the previously covered areas of the gutter for smoothing them. The rounding could then be further smoothed on the other also rounded side of the core strip by pulling a fixed rubber over the gutter rounding. And this is the result of all this tender loving care, which can really be impressive and so is also taken from the quality control of the FSC. And since I now know the fact how it works, I can calmly dedicate myself to the other gutters.
  7. Hello Mark, my faithful companion, and thanks for your continued interest and the joy of my work. I think the best is just good enough and so I'm often striving for the perfect solution, no matter what kind of material is needed and how long it takes, because only the result is important, and nothing is impossible.
  8. Hello together, since I was still not satisfied with the last rounding step to the final gutter diameter of approx. 2.0 mm, I have tinkered at a better solution. At first, I have made a few longer core wires for the longer half-pipes to get the curves evenly over the entire length. With the last core wire of Ø 1,5 mm I get with the 0.1 mm aluminum sheet to approx. 1.7 mm, only I had to widen the gutter again and again, since the top edges are always rounding slightly again. With my previously used rectangular strip (1.5 mm x 5 mm), however, this did not achieve uniformly enough, especially with the longer gutters. That is why I have sanded a 2 mm balsa board on one side down to a thickness of approx. 1.7 mm and rounded the edge in order to be able to widen the last rounding accordingly and to smooth it, which I have tested then at the end of the Gutter 1. This may work in principle for short gutters, but is not a good solution for the longer gutters, since the Balsa board is too little stable in shape over the length and can partly be pressed in. That's why I have choosen another solution with a plastic strip, which is somewhat more complex, but more stable. But since there is no commercially available wider strips with about 1.7 mm thickness, I have made it myself. For this purpose, I have cut a handy strip of 15 mm x 150 mm from 1.5 mm styrene and glued on both sides 5 mm wide strips of 0.1 mm Styrene, for which I used MEK, wherewith the composite strip is then approx 1.75 mm thick. The more difficult part was then the smooth rounding of the edge, which took some time. But with this core strip, it can be handled very cleverly by clamping the gutter into a Balsa "vise" to smooth it, without slipping or tilting. And with this more sturdy plastic core, the desired half-round shape of the longer gutter should be doable reproducibly, which is very important. And if this method now works as well with the longer gutters, which I assume, this would be great.
  9. Thanks Rich for looking in on me again, The tiny supports will be a bit more tricky, but should be doable, even though not without the usual stress, as I think. The highlight then will be the varnishing and above all the assembly of these fragile stuff at the MLP deck, which is why I'm dreading it already today ...
  10. Hello everybody, here briefly to the current state of the plumber works. Today I have made a few longer half-pipes as a support for the first roundings of the longer gutters, by halving pipes (Ø 7.5 mm and Ø 6.0 mm) with the precision saw. And in this way the roundings can be formed much more evenly and, above all, without larger dents or even kinks. So it looks much better than yesterday, and is still increasable, which makes me confident. And as it looks so far, there could still be a happy ending with these gutters.
  11. Hello friends, since these crazy gutters are always on my mind, I am constantly pondering how I can master them ... And then tonight during a cool wheat beer (Cheers!!!) I hit on an idea, that in my very first attempts to build such gutters I had used the smallest available Styrene half-pipe (Ø 3.0 mm), on the left in the image, which was however too big for my 1:160 scale and was quickly put aside. But this half-pipe could at least be a suitable support for the final rounding of the gutters with the 1.5 mm core wire after the last groove in the set, which would be long enough for the longer gutter parts, what I will try as next.
  12. Thanks Gimme Shelter for your nice compliments, I think that my Pad will get a nice and safe place in my home, when it will be finished some day ... BTW, the hit number of views is relative, in our German Raumcon Forum there are meanwhile more than 400K and in NASASpaceFlight Forum more than 350K ... To estimate a price of the material costs what I have needed so far for my project is very difficult, but in a first approach I have come up to approx. 1.000 EUR, but perhaps that is still too little ... The Evergreen Profiles alone were about 200 EUR ...
  13. Hello together, here I am again, but unfortunately with the previous low point of my gutter-rounding ... And what does one say thereto? I had just cut off a longer brass core wire (Ø 2.0 mm) and wanted to try again, to smooth the little dents, but a longitudinal kink which meanwhile had developed caused by the multiple rounding of the strip was then too much for the thin sheet, which unfortunately has broken up, caused by material fatigue ... And what is that teaching us? Unnecessary back-and-forth bending should be avoided as far as possible, and stepwise be rounded in only one direction, which I will now try again cheerfully with longer core wires and a new strip.
  14. Hello everybody, it goes on with the gutters. The fact that the test results with the short gutter parts were quite promising doesn't have to mean anything, because whether the rounding of the longer gutters from the 0.1 mm aluminum sheet would be work well too, would still have to be shown. At first the short Gutter 3 at the end of Side 2 (Bay 18) was cut out and its opening punched for the downspout, and also the strips for the Gutter 2 and Gutter 1 (bottom). The dimensions were taken from this image of the MLP-3, because it has almost no distortions and should correspond to the MLP-2. Source: Library of Congress The Gutter 2 starts at the end of the Bay 16 directly behind the local girder and extends to the middle of the Bay 11. And then I actually wanted to start with the rounding of the gutters, but previously I had once again compared the distribution of the gutters and the position of the box with the Fire hose reel with the images of the MLP-2 from the collection of John Duncan and suddenly did not trust my eyes. For as one can see on this already known image, the Gutter 2 is running up to the end of the Bay 11, [/img] Source: apollosaturn.com (John Duncan) and must therefore be slightly longer than the already cut strip, namely 107 mm instead of 99 mm. Only good that I had compared once again. So a new gutter had to be cut, which was done quickly. And now the stepwise rounding of the parts could finally get started, initially again with the short gutter part up to the lower groove, and then with the longer part, what could have been made even relatively well up to the rounding in the last groove, although it would be better if the Rolling Set would be slightly wider. Thereafter, the short piece was gradually further rounded, first on the foam strip, and then between the balsa boards up to the core diameter of 1.5 mm. The further rounding of the longer gutter was then somewhat more difficult because it is longer than the core wires, which has led to unsightly kinks, especially during rounding on the foam strip, which should be avoided, however, since they are difficult to remove. That's why I've tried it on the cutting mat, but for this one needs a tight clamping in order to press with the Balsa boards from both sides, but this has not worked so well. After that I have the gutter again somewhat widened and tried it once more with a longer plastic profile, only the plastic is of course not stiff enough, which is why I have stopped for the moment. But, of course, I will not abandon immediately, rather I will try it again with longer core wires, wherefore you could keep your fingers crossed, if you please! Maybe one of you still has a smart tip for me, which would be very helpful.