This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Black Knight

Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,707 Excellent

About Black Knight

  • Rank
    slightly eccentric
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Donaghadee, N'orn I'rn
  1. Amongst the glues I use are Humbrol Clearfix.; reasonably strong, gap filling, safe, reasonably fast setting UV resin-glue; very strong, slightly gap filling, safe afaik, very quick - 5 to 10 seconds to harden
  2. Seem to be a pretty good offer. Especially as they include some lights. 50cm could do most of your needs, but 50cm on paper is a lot smaller than in reality, make sure you have somewhere to put it up, maybe permanately as if its awkward to find space you'll tend not to use it. I use the fabric pop-up types and they can be a bane sometimes - too flexible on the bottom. I have a 30cm for WIP photos or small finished models, a 45cm one for main finished photos and a larger one which very rarely comes out. Do a really good search and get the lowest price you can on them. And make sure your camera can take photos using the set up before you buy. Definitely worth getting these or something like them if you want to move your finished-model photos into another realm.
  3. Bombs were mostly RLM 70, but RLM 02, 71 and 66 was also used
  4. Its a Ford 10 Ford had the habit of punning its car names at that time Forlite = four side windows Tudor = two doors [pronounce Tudor the American way] Fordor = four doors AFAIR the white was introduced November 1939 and was officially not required from spring 1940. Civilians and emergency vehicles kept on using it but the military stopped as it compromised camouflage.
  5. To answer this more directly; I have. I wanted a load of archers for a battle scene. I used the archer from the Airfix Robin Hood set [afair] I used two-part silicone RTV rubber. I used a special heat proof version but the process is the same. 1. I first embedded the figure half way or so in plasticene. 2. Applied mould release wax, a very very thin coat 3. Poured mixed rubber 4. When set, inverted, removed plasticene leaving figure embedded in first half of mould 5. repeated steps 2 & 3 6. separated mould halves, removed figure 7. cut pouring and air way gates 8. started moulding figures >> I was using lead alloy for the moulding but resin would do the job too. I only did this to meet my own needs and at the time the Airfix Robin Hood set was not available, it was before ebay days so getting more figures by buying sets was really not an option. These days I can buy all the archers I want from the likes of Italeri I'm only telling the process as an example of how to do simple moulding.
  6. As it happens.............. Kits for Cash has a very rare resin kit of a Fruitbat - Horton thingy mark ???
  7. More likely Foo Fighters and the Mary Celeste
  8. Thats not funny. Too much of that is really happening in my part of the country.
  9. Study the instructions whilst the parts dry. AFAIR look for a flashed over hole in the part which forms the cockpit bottom/wheel wells and rear of the big nose intake [on the frame on right] You need to drill that open to fit the air filter. [might be on the frame on the left] If you don't you'll not get it to fit. A lot more parts than you'll use. Check your parts; it looks like one wheel half has come off the frame [top left frame]
  10. White glue won't do. UHU is only a bit better Both not very strong for this sort of work. 3 types of glues I use and recommend; 1/ superglue - gel type, stays where I want it 2/ two-pack resin eg Araldite, takes longer to set but is a good gap filler and really soild when set 3/ I'm now trying the UV setting glue - actually a resin, good for a quick bond - 5 to 10 seconds, really soild when set, can also be used as a small gap filler hth
  11. Is your left wrist perhaps accidentally hitting the Control or Shift buttons as you type? I find I keep my left wrist lower than my right and this sometimes happens.
  12. The rear doesn't really need a frame; its shape holds itself well, it is a closed cone shape, whereas at the front there is no stength so a frame is needed. There might have been a frame for the rear, at the rear edge of the cockpit which the seat attaches to. In car bodies I know the sides come down and are folded inwards thus; L The floor is attached to that bottom arm of the L so we would not see rivets along the outside; they are inside the car going downwards Look at the picture of the cockpit of the Delage on page 53. Although that is an inside sheet of metal joining to the floor and is on top, we would see that row of rivets but with the floor on the top of the short arm of the L The whole body unit, often called the body tub, is held to the long chassis members by only four or at most six bolts, through the floor at strong points. At the front; I believe there must be a frame. Why do we not see rivets holding it? The scuttle panel is recessed down a bit ]_ so the bonnet and its sealing can fit flush Perhaps the rivets are in that recessed part and are hidden from us by the rear edge of the bonnet itself?
  13. Nonsense!? Non--sense!? Heretic! Burn him! Burn him! oh, and make sure you use those Bluebell matches just playing to my stereotype [its like a bagpipe but a pair]
  14. 1. Olivier, I hope you feel better soon 2. The date on the blue prints - perhaps the date of new blue prints outlining chassis and body changes already done but meant for the next racing season >> eg. The ship Titanic was built to the plans of the earlier built Olympic, but with changes which were added to the plans after the Titanic was launched << 3. Not as bad as the 806; my car uses 1/2 L to 1 L of oil every 100mls [165km]. Some comes up around me through that hole in the floor, but it is not burning hot and its mostly onto my trousers below the knees. Lots of very hot air comes up too. Worst is on very wet roads; the water comes up through there and that will hit me up the face, especially if I hit a big puddle. All part of the fun of racing such a car 4 NickD is right about the steering. Lots of 'play' in vintage car steering. I can turn my steering wheel 1/8 of a turn either way before the road wheels move; not only is this acceptable but is considered to be very good! 5. Under the bonnet of my car the inside metal is painted black. Other cars I know are also black or the colour of the outside of the car. Its rare to find them bare metal ie silver aluminium. Inside the cockpit its usual to find the metal the same colour as the outside, again, very rare to find it bare metal. Sometimes more metal is left unpainted on 'restored' cars as the people doing that think thats the way they were. There are a lot of very corrosive vapours blasting about under that bonnet; the paint helps keep the metal from those >> thought; if the 806 had engine over-heating problems, the painting of the inside of the bonnet black or red would help the cooling; leaving it unpainted would make the problem worse. Because; black/dark bodies absorb heat; the bonnet becomes a radiator, silver would reflect the heat back into the engine bay. They did know this back then, its part of the reason my engine bay is black <<