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Black Knight

Gold Member
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2,859 Excellent

About Black Knight

  • Rank
    slightly eccentric

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  • Location
    Donaghadee, N'orn I'rn
  1. That it would be fun to do it that way?
  2. Nicely done
  3. I get my superglue gel from this seller; I find it lasts a long time before it starts to go 'off'
  4. May I say; caveat first - my car is about half the size of the Fiat - from the front of the scuttle [where the bonnet joins] to the back of the seats it is one piece of metal. Supported only at the front, then where a bridge piece holds the instrument panel and then an ash frame at the back of the seats; nothing else, its not even attached fully to the floor. It is about 1.25mm thickness, its plenty strong. My car has seen more racing than the Fiat, both track racing and off-road racing so its had enough rough handling for any deficiencies in this construction to show up by now. It has no second internal skin for support; I have leather covered panels inside by the seats, for driver comfort, they are jammed into place, not mounted directly to the outer bodywork. My bonnet has rolled wired edges and those are suffcient to make it keep its shape for 86 years; and my bonnet has to come off every time I need to add fuel and oil, never mind the regular cleaning of the spark plugs and the adjustment of the points. The bonnet aluminium is about 0.9mm thick
  5. In the DVD re-issues of the original film the dog's name has been dubbed over with 'Digger'. Its close enough to the original name to sound right to those who know
  6. or the Me 262; all the work for a new 1/72 imagine; a 1/24 DFD, a Mossie and 262!
  7. No, no, it was the Fokker Wolf [Fokker spelt slightly differently]
  8. The Model Shop, Queen Street, Belfast The original one, as it was in the 70s & 80s, not as the useless unfriendly place it became in the 90s and 00s, which I think led to its total close-down about 3 years ago after a move out of the city 3 years previous.
  9. A friendly rebuke; the title of the thread is 'What should be the next Aircraft Airfix issue in 1/24' Altho I do agree a big X-craft would be in interesting kit
  10. I too use mainly side-cutter, but also a SM no.12 blade [a hooked shape] and in the case of delicate looking parts, especially canopies I cut the sprue near the part first with a hot knife blade so there is no force at all on or near the part.
  11. What I do for two-part moulds; get two small boards of thin material; MDF, plywood or plasticard. Each the same size, both the size of the mould or slightly larger, but not less than. Place on either side of mould and hold there using small ratchet clamps. Elastic bands sometimes work too. But not regular spring clamps. With a ratchet clamp you can apply a measured force to hold the mould halves together without squashing them. Place the ratchet clamps just to the inside of the edge of the mould, the boards will help spread the clamping force equally across the moulds
  12. I just used regular Revell Contacta glue in the blue pot with a needle. But; I also drilled out the arm etcetera locations and inserted sprue pegs to help strengthen the joints
  13. of all the 'facts' on this thread that one is the most unbelievable A bit more on that; the British Government agency for food rationing found there was a surplus increased crop of carrots and no-one was eating them Thus as a cover story it was sold to schools and other institutions as beneficial to eat more carrots
  14. When I click on those tag links I just get 'server not found'
  15. Another for the Gloster Gladiator. A great many users not just RAF/RN FAA; Egypt, Lithuania, captured Russian & German, Eire, Belgium, Finland, Norway, Sweden, China.......... With just a few different parts; pre-war RAF Mk.1, wartime Mk.I or II RAF, skis for Sweden and Finland, bits for Sea Gladiator Mk.II [intrim] or full Mk. II.......... Enough options for Airfix to keep reboxing for decades