This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Will Vale

Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,629 Excellent


About Will Vale

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 07/06/75

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Wellington, NZ
  • Interests
    Modelling, Running, Cooking, Work, Fatherhood.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,120 profile views
  1. Thanks for the kind comments all! Cheers, they're glass doll eyes so they have a lot more depth than paint would. I set them in translucent Sculpey so the LEDs in his head can light them up. I think so, the second one looks better although neither is entirely authentic - in the TV footage he appears to have an infinite beam? Thanks, there are things I would do differently to the sculpt now that I've painted him - there are lots of cuts and grooves in the belly plate which don't reach the end properly, and I didn't smooth his skin over very well. But I'm still really happy and have been thinking about other things to sculpt I got to use my favourite grown up tool today and cut a hole in the bamboo mat using a hole saw This took ages, especially given the '90s-vintage Nicad packs my drill uses, but made a beautifully clean cut with no splinters and more importantly no delamination of the pieces. I also ripped the rubber pads off the top of the thing - they were just hot glued into routed slots and pulled out quite cleanly. After that I cut a square of ~0.75mm PET sheet, rounded the corners and cut out the corresponding circle. I painted the lake on the underside using stippled tube acrylics, which is tricky because you have to paint backwards and can't really see what the end result will be. I think I started a bit on the dark side (I was always intending to back it with black-green) as it's ended up *very* dark, but I can tint the water media which go on top to offset that. It does make for nice reflections, and you can hopefully see where the stirred-up silt is which will guide the waves on the top layer. It's all epoxied together now, the masking tape is slightly under the edge of the sheet but the glue bead shouldn't reach it so I think it'll pull out cleanly. I might need to add a dot of epoxy under each corner and clamp them down with pegs when I get to the end since they look a little proud in the pics. Bemular is just epoxied straight to the upper surface of the plastic. Oh yes, and I was able to cut out the X of armature wire supporting the base of his body "cage", so there's lots of room inside for a two-AA pack or maybe a USB charger for convenience. I haven't done the final wiring up yet though. Cheers, Will
  2. More dome pictures I'm afraid! I added some Scorched Brown and Black in the larger chips and some scruffy edge highlights with Dorn Yellow and Gauss Blaster Green: The brown/black was also washed into the metal areas, and then I gave them a heavy black enamel wash and also added it to the panel lines. The panels have too much surface texture (crazing in the paint) so the wash moved rather too far, I need to gloss coat them before doing more enamel work. Cheers, Will
  3. I had a bit of time last night so I painted the smaller runes to see how they looked. These are two coats of thin white paint in the recesses, some tidying up with black on the edges, and then Lamenter Yellow and Bloodletter to create the fiery colours. I didn't want to paint a cheesy glow around them as they can't really illuminate the surface they're on from underneath it, but I did add a bit to the mottle around them in the end as though it might be glowing through the armour. I'm not totally convinced at the moment, I think I'll try adding some darker reds into the cooler areas of the runes, and maybe bringing the glow out onto the surface more as though there's energy getting out. Hopefully that will let them make more sense? Cheers, Will
  4. The hand size and shape look good to me, glad they pass the test. Presumably you'll be building them up with epoxy so they don't need baking? Will
  5. Ha, you're the second person to suggest that. I'm intending to make the recessed runes glow in a fiery way so I'll deal with the edges when I find out if that works or not Will
  6. Made a bit more progress on the headless horsemen - I washed all the metals with GW Seraphim Sepia and then cleaned up the overspray with a couple of coats of thin black paint. I also had to paint in a few bearings which the airbrush didn't find. I also picked out the raised Khorne icons, which are a bit too gold and not brassy enough at the moment. I went a bit further with one model to see just how crappily I could underpaint the armour and get away with it. I used a hog bristle brush to messily stipple Codex Grey on the edges of the plates and raised areas, and then repeated a smaller stipple of Dorn Yellow and a drybrush of the same. At which point it looked horrific. This was followed with (I think) five glazes of Bloodletter, using a hairdryer to speed things up. That gave a reasonable depth of colour but caused a couple of problems - it's deposited some little lumps of what might be badly ground or out-of-suspension pigment, and it tends to make the recesses redder. I've knocked off some of the lumps with a cocktail stick and painted over others, but they're not all gone yet. The second problem was easier to deal with - I brushed thinned black paint into the crevices and blended it back out with a wet brush. The edges of the plates then had a highlight of Blood Red -> Wildrider Red -> Fire Dragon Bright and I blocked in the trim again with black. Last of all, I applied Badab Black wash up to the trim and blended it out to give a gradient to the edges of the plates. It's not perfect but it was really fast to do so I'm happy. I'm also going to give it a glossier finish which will make the blacks richer, and some bright highlights and hide a lot of the issues for me. Really need to get those heads in progress since they'll be having a similar finish. Cheers, Will
  7. Thanks! Orks are apparently really into triangles and checks, but only triangles are easy to paint I chipped the green paint on the dome and tank - I was able to remove most of the overspray this way, but then had to rinse the foamy paint residue off under the tap so it was a bit fragile until it dried again. When I came to chip the panels I had to be super careful, but it was possible to see what would happen by looking for relief in the paint. The big tank got a couple of extra big chips on the rim/cap when I picked it up with what I thought was excessive care! I'll leave it 24h before carrying on and be careful with the wetter layers! Cheers, Will
  8. Nice work! Those shrouded props make for a cool back view. Will
  9. I liked these when you were working on them but they look incredible in the photos with backdrops. Really naturalistic. Top stuff! Will
  10. Must be great to play with a fully painted set like that! I'm really impressed you got the time down to half an hour per figure on the zombies. Survivor colours are really vibrant too Will
  11. I know what you mean, it feels like they're really into the Marines vs. Chaos thing to the extent of almost everything else sometimes. The Orks did get a new sprue for their bommer last year which adds some pretty cool wurrin mekanikal gubbinz. I have a longer-term Ork project in mind if this all goes well - some kind of land-carrier - but that's going to take a while. Cheers, Will
  12. Hi all, I finished my first mini of 2017 I usually switch from modelling to painting in the (antipodean) winter as it's easy to do in front of the telly in the warm. I'm a bit early this year but I was inspired by the release of Shadow War to make up and paint some Space Orks. This is one of the Warhammer 40K armies I really like and have collected a few models for but haven't actually built and painted much to date. He's a Bad Moon Ork, which means he should have some yellow on him. I don't have many (any?) figures with yellow so it's a bit different, and I do like the colour. I sprayed white primer from above where the yellow and skin areas would be to get a bright base, the rest is grey primer so there's a little bit of pre-shading from the primer highlight. His skin is painted with washes and glazes over the primer, the rest of the colours are applied more traditionally with layered or stippled highlights and a little bit of wet blending in places. All the paints are Citadel apart from the primer and varnish which are Alclad. That reminds me - I ought to put a bit of gloss on the eyeballs before I put him away in the cabinet. There are another eight or so which still need paint, so it's probably time to switch to batch painting mode for those (bah!) I'm also working on the scenery over in the sci-fi section. Cheers, Will
  13. I painted an Ork! But more importantly I put some base coats on more scenery. This time I tried adding Alclad Steel to the recessed areas and using can hairspray for that flowery smell. Then applied Tamiya Cockpit Green and a similar yellow mix to the blower thingy: The hairspray is a lot more "active" than the chipping fluid and I had some crazing where the paint went on a bit wet. I think for this kind of thing that's all fine but for a tank or similar it'd not be a great result. I was able to do the thing I was planning where I washed off most of the overspray by activating the hairspray, but because it foams I had to rinse it off and now I have to wait an age for the water to dry up properly so I can chip the green panels. It's all ultra fragile until that happens obviously. But you don't want to see that, you want to see the Ork right? I wasn't sure how well it was going as it's a bit neat and un-Orky, but then I added the white dagz and the flames and it made more sense. It probably didn't help that the head was done separately and stuck on at the end. Anyway, I'm happy now and will try and go with variations on this for the other models. For (my) reference, the skin is a heavy wash of Athonian Camoshade, two glazes of Waywatcher green and one of Lamenters Yellow. This looks OK as-is, but once I'd done the face I wanted to take it a bit further. I added highlights from Skarsnik Green mixed with Waywatcher Green, extreme higlights with Gauss Blaster Green and Flayed One Flesh mixes, glazed again with Waywatcher green and washed Biel-Tan green into the recesses between the muscles. I'm still not entirely sure how to highlight muscles but I think he looks OK. Then I went to look at the last Orks I painted (which I was pleased with at the time) and I reckon I'm making some legitimate progress! Cheers, Will
  14. That looks like a very difficult paint job to execute. Great work! Will
  15. Dat fing wiv all da arrers makes my hed hurty but da smartboy sez it sez WAAAAGH so dat's good. We needs plenty o' dakka so dat sum of it mite aktually hit sumwun We iz also lookin' at a ded killy power klaw for da boss but we iz short on teef. I was thinking of some Orky names and have a strong desire to go all Postgate/Firmin with Boss Zogbad da Bad and his Spanna Boys Zoggin da Zog and Olaf da Shifty. The yoofs could then be Firkin and Postal, not sure about the boyz but I suppose Poor Zogson ought to be in there somewhere, maybe Ka-nutz as well? W