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Everything posted by hendie

  1. Fresh from the plumbing disaster that was my weekend - 9 hours, 5 trips to the hardware store, numerous bits, bobs and tools purchased, only to end up in a worse position then when I started - and I'll still need to bring a plumber in as this is now out of my skill set So, what else could go wrong ?... Actually a couple of hours worth of modeling calmed me down somewhat and stopped me from turning into Ballistic Bob a la Chewin' the Fat. First order of the day was to attack the upper hinge casting. Believe it or not I actually used a kit part in here - part 20 from Runner Tree C (I think) - I scanned through the instruction manual (which I've largely been ignoring since I started this build) and could find no reference to those parts either by number or by look-a-like parts in the assembly diagrams. I did have to modify it slightly to get it to fit - that was then faced off with two small wedge shaped strips of styrene as per the big chunky bracket on the 1:1 When viewed straight on, the hinges are perfectly parallel to each other - due to the fact that Fly haven't got the same gap between the hings on the port side as they do on the starboard side. I could have made them parallel but then the brass tubes I've used for the hinge pins would not be in the center of the hinge brackets - you win some you lose some.... Next up was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be... a small piece of brass rod with the end squeezed in the vise to flatten it out. That was then drilled with one of those carbide micro drills (a favorite piece of kit even although they break very easily). 1:1 Finger shown for comparison purposes. No real care was put into the position of the hole - the excess flattened rod was removed after drilling. The end was then radiused with a file... and hey presto... we have one part of the bell crank lever hinge mechanism thingy which you can just about see protruding from the slot about halfway up the tail innards here. Reeling from the euphoria of nothing disintegrating on me or leaking or blowing up I turned my attention to one of the more recently found 'oh-crap-on-a-biscuit' deficits of the kit. Yes, we're talking about the lower mesh panels on the tail. After a bit of thought I determined the following course of action... make them narrower ! Simple! Job Done! Now all I had to do was figure out how to do that. My first stab at this was merely to glue a 1mm strip of styrene in the aperture. I realize that this does not fully address all the flaws in this area, but visually, this is the most apparent. ( I may yet change my mind and attempt some further butchery... tbd and all that...) Once those infills have hardened up, I'll add a sear of filler and smooth it all back down Of course, this requires that I scrap the kit PE and find a suitable alternative. Like this... Success! That piece of PE mesh looks perfect for the job. Unfortunately, it's the last piece of that particular mesh that I have and I need it for the train build. It's also been OOP for several years now Best I scout around and see if I can locate another ebayer charging gouging prices for it.
  2. Since I seem to have hit some leaves on the rails over in my Pullman Car build and have been stymied by my nemesis, the unassuming but terrifying nightmare otherwise known as... the paint job, I thought I should try and refresh my batteries by trying a diversion - namely, starting self flagellation another build. I've had this one in the stash for a while, and my interest was sparked by @HL-10's very nice Fly 1:32 Wessex build (sorry, don't know how to add that nice little box thingie with the preview) so I thought what the heck, let's give it a go. What's the worst that can happen ? Well, let's get some things straight before we start... this will not be a quick build. I just can't do quick builds. Also, as my slightly battered psyche joyrides on the sinusoidal monorail that is mojo, I will probably switch back and forth between this build and the Pullman Car to keep things (namely me) interested. Scratchbuilding? Well it goes without saying - yes, there will be lots of scratch building. There may even be some 3D printed parts or some resin parts cast up. Let's wait and see shall we? So what are we dealing with here ? Well, here's a couple of bits of 1/32 Wessex taped up and sitting in front of my 1/32 Pullman Car (yes, it's just the chassis so far, and yes, it's upside down). I never realized just how close they were in size to each other before. I'm going to need a bigger display case. and we're off! I actually glued two parts together 'scuse the 1:1 feet photobombing the picture. As this thread continues, I'll try and (constructively) review the kit. So far there are some nice aspects, and some not so nice aspects that I have come across. The most immediately apparent is the lack of any alignment features which is proving troublesome, particularly as the parts also have different wall thickness - you can't just go and glue a tab on the back of one part as the surfaces then end up at different heights. Then, part edges aren't square - tale a look at the gap on the reverse face here. (That will be dealt with later after the glue has cured) So, a short post to start the proceedings, but more to follow as mojo is rising
  3. I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws
  4. thanks guys. Unfortunately modeling hours this weekend were scuppered due to plumbing issues. Plumbing and I are akin to Stan and Ollie, a piano, and a long set of steps If the gods have finally stopped messing with me I *may* get an hour or two in today
  5. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Ovals are such a difficult shape to scratch - there's always one quadrant which just doesn't look quite right. Starting to look very interesting now with the detailing started in earnest
  6. coming together very nicely. Re: the cracked transparency... legend has it that a few aircraft of the time were involved in a bit of a tiff so I'm sure at least one aircraft around that time flew with a cracked window - I'd count it as 'weathering'
  7. Catching Pictures in the Air

    Sorry, modeler baiting is one of my favorite pastimes when I can't get near the bench myself. I don't believe anyone has regulated against it yet. For the blinds and similar furnishings, may I make a suggestion ? The tinfoil wrapping from inside cigarette packets. I've used it to great effect on my train build for the concertina type bellows at the gangway entrance. I found standard tinfoil was too plain and prone to tearing easily. The ciggy tinfoil has several benefits: It's thin, it has a debossed pattern (fine grain), and it has a thin paper backing. The paper backing serves to strengthen the tinfoil greatly. You can fold, crease, unfold and it just keeps on working (I found real tinfoil started to tear very easily at the creases). When all crumbled up and flattened out again it looks very like fabric. The paper also takes paint very easily.
  8. Catching Pictures in the Air

    if you find yourself using hand cream and lip balm when changing your car tires you know you've gone too far down that path..... oh.. oh.. center console... cogs n wheels... looking at that kit console, and knowing that you bought a bunch of cogs n wheels, and are thinking of getting into casting, and have a lathe, are proficient in soldering, and are thinking about PE.... I can see that center console in the kit already cowering in trepidation as the Baron's butchery blades approach
  9. Catching Pictures in the Air

    there you go again with your boutique paraphernalia.
  10. Thanks Ian - I'm glad you're happy with it. That was quick - I only got notified the other day that they had successfully printed it. I should point out that the link you posted is actually to the 1:48 version. Searching for SACRU on Shapeways will bring up both versions if anyone's interested. I was really happy with the quality and level of detail of my 1:48 Version on the last Wessi build, but since Shapeways have enhanced their material selection I thought I could add a little bit more detail to the SACRU and it looks to have worked. I'm not sure the detail would translate down to 1:72 but it may be worth a shot sometime. In the course of full disclosure, I am now pretty certain that I will be doing the tail wheel casting through Shapeways as well - the kit part just has too many details missing I'd be interested in seeing any photo's you have of the SACRU, particularly when painted up.
  11. lemme check No they aren't. I'm not even sure the parts I'm looking at are the hinge parts in question - they just sorta look like them.. almost. And the resin part they supply as the center bracketry/bellcrank lever thingy looks like it came off the back of a Massey Ferguson that towed tanks in it's spare time. Guess I'll be making that too. and possibly 3D printing the tail wheel casting - the kit part is the wrong shape, is missing a few features, and generally is all lop sided. I know what you mean Bill. It looks very close according to the drawings, but something about it just doesn't look right. - but that's a rabbit hole too far. gauntlet caught and added to the gauntlet stash
  12. Always willing to learn.... I'll give this color sanding a try. I had a quick look at the parts this evening and they don't look as bad as I had feared - still not perfect by any stretch of the imagination - but something I may be able to work with. Thanks for that! I know it's not everyone's cup of tea.
  13. you just know I have to get you back for that don't you ?
  14. Thanks Bill, but I still have all the photo's you sent me a while back. I think I have enough to keep me digging further into trouble for a while yet. - and I just checked the runner trees. It looks like the "hinges" are included on runner tree C, parts 20. - but only 2 i.e. one side of the tail only.
  15. and to be honest, I'm not all that impressed with them either. I went and grabbed the book with a view to scanning the drawings, but just looking at them was enough. Take a gander at this shot. That area in the 4+ book doesn't look right either so I don't know if we can point the finger directly at Fly for this. They really don't look to be too far off the mark compared to this drawing. grumble mumble frumble hmmmphhh What to do, what to do. I think I may have a plan forming. It won't take care of everything that's wrong with the tail but I think I can make it look better. I think the two reinforcement strips either side of the top hand hold are too far apart, ergo, the top hand hold is just a bit too long. I don't think thre's too much I can do about that. If I close tehm up, I have to shift the entire mesh opening further up the tail I think I may be able to make another mesh panel that's narrower than the kit part - if I can close up some of that opening. That will allow me to move the bottom hand hold up the tail just a tad. Hopefully that will look a little bit better (but then my internal panels are in the wrong place.... damnit). This is going to take some thought. Does any body have any other versions of the Wessex from Fly. I've seen from photo's that they have done some rework to the tail - can someone post a photo if they can please ? It would be nice to compare with the HC2 *edit* never mind - I just found some photo's of the HU5 on t'interwebby and it looks just the same. - which then begs the question, where did I see the tail photo's where the hinge was actually molded ??? Okay I just found it again - why is the HC2 not like that ? It's still not right but it's a darn sight better than the parts I got edit again arghhhhhhh now I need to go and check the runner trees. I spotted a photo which looks like the runner may contain the parts - but no mention of them in the instructions (unless I'm going blind!)
  16. That was always part of the plan. - Bill made me do it on my last build. Looking at photo's (I don't have any decent plans of the tail), I reckon the top line of the mesh should be where the bottom line of the top hand hold is at present, and everything else swiveled (or raised,depending upon your view) to suit. Of course, that then means that my internal framing is out. I need to take a long hard think about this. Any correction no matter how slight then means that other things are going to have to move also. I may be better off scanning the 4+ drawings as there doesn't appear to be anything worthwhile on t'internet. Bugger.
  17. Short update, nothing major. Looking more at the tail I became more and more convinced that it could be made better. The little gussets that Fly provided were a nice touch but didn't really cut the mustard for me. Off they came. They were also in the wrong place, and several were missed. It was a relatively simple job to replace them with little triangles of styrene. I think based on that photo that they are a tad on the large side so I'll trim them down before painting. Next up was to attack one of the other hinges. Same process - drill ridiculously small hole in ridiculously small tube, fit a piece of rod in there and try and solder the little booger. You may just be able to make out the small notch that I've cut in the kit plastic to receive the rod. (hmnnnnnn I was going to leave the Fly gusset plates either side of the hinge, but looking at this photo, I think they too are going to go to) That hinge was CA'd in place, then it was on to the last hinge for this side of the tail. The first three "hinges" were all single, but if you look at the top of the page in Post 401 you can clearly see in Bill's great photo that the last hinge part is a bit more complicated. My first thought was to use a small piece of tube and drill right through - that way I can use the brass rod to attach to the main fuselage. However, now that I look at Bill's photo above, I'm not so sure any longer... I'll think this one through a bit more before I commit myself. But in other news.... again looking at the tail, I'm becoming less and less and even lesser enamored with Fly's offering. Take a look at the photo below. That mesh was bothering me so I finally cut it from the fret and laid it in place. Now compare that to the photo in the book. The Kit parts proportions are all off don't you think ? and as I look at that photo I notice that the bottom hand hold is also in the wrong location. On the kit, it's near the bottom edge of the tail, but on the 1:1 it is much higher. Sod!!! That mesh needs to be much narrower, the ratio of width to height is all wrong. Darnit. That's going to bug me so much I'm going to have to do something about it.
  18. I finally bit the bullet and tried again. Paint was decanted from the aerosol and left for a few hours to off-gas. The airbrush was cleaned, new needle and nozzle fitted. The spray booth was cleaned the other day to give the dust time to settle. I bought some new enamel thinners as the Humbrol tin had gone all rusty inside and flakes of who knows what floating around in it. I don't think I'll be buying Humbrol again anytime soon. Everything set, I took a deep breath and started. Fail! I started getting some kind of speckling on the surface. Luckily I had spotted it before I went too far, so I cleaned everything off with some thinners on a rag. Okay, lets start again. Everything was cleaned thoroughly with IPA and dried. No dust anywhere near. This time I went straight from the aerosol.... No, it's not perfect but it might just be salvageable. I'll give it a couple of days to harden up and I'll hit it with some micro-mesh and see what we end up with. There's definitely some dust which managed to get through my defenses, but more worrying is a couple of spots where the paint didn't want to take (again). Anyway, we'll see how we get on. This paint job is the single biggest hold up to me really moving forward with this build. I'm determined it's not going to beat me again. If I can't get a decent finish from this paint, it looks like a couple of hours drive to a model shop - the only one anywhere near which stocks a large selection of paints. I should be able to find something close now that I know what I am looking for.
  19. agreed. Do you need to wait for Airifx ? couldn't you make that part from some clear packaging ?
  20. BR86 2-8-2t Tank Locomotive

    that is beginning to look very nice. It's one of those instances where the PE really does make a difference
  21. well, maybe not quite eureka but worth considering.... if you need to replicate ribbed tubing/ducting - How about using a length of lead wire of appropriate diameter, then rolling it with a knife blade (but not cutting through). The lead should be soft enough to take a good indentation. Just repeat several hundred times along the length and you should have a good substitute
  22. Best Laser Decal Paper 2017

    I'm not sure if it's available in the UK but I tried a few different types before settling on decal paper by Papilio. It was easy to work with and gave some really good results, and the film thickness was 0.0015" - barely noticeable once applied. One warning though - I had some in the stash for about a year and went to use it - the clear film broke up inside the printer, almost as if it had become brittle. I'm putting that down to being my fault for holding onto it for so long and probably not storing it correctly. I'll be ordering more though for my next custom decals
  23. ok, I'll have to admit to being stumped there Bill. I can't think of any way to replicate that in perduoscale, but I'll report back if I have a eureka moment
  24. well bless my cotton socks. I didn't realize that my last update in here was last September I almost feel awkward at popping in here for such a short update. Well, the best laid plans of mice and men and all that.... I've spent since Saturday in bed with old man disease so haven't got anywhere near the modeling bench. It did however give me some time to start working on the etch frets for Pegasus. I'm going to be testing the limits of my photo etching skills with some of these parts I think. I've shown the frets here without any fill just for clarity of the image. From Fret A, top left: Ventilator coverings, immediately below that are a sign, and 5 x escutcheon plates for the door handles. Below that are the exterior frames for the kitchen and bathroom windows. To the right of that is an arrow (!), then a sign for the Trianon bar. In Fret B we have from top left: some more escutcheon plates, and below that is a part for the artwork that hung behind the bar. To the right of that are more parts for the artwork. I'm not convinced that these parts will turn out but it's worth a try. This picture/artwork hung in the bar way back in the 50's (I think). Unbelievably, although it had gotten lost over the years, it was found again and the owner of the carriage secured it so we were able to install it back in it's rightful place behind the bar for the launch of the car back to service. The only thing I have got to lose is some time - the material cost is relatively cheap so it's worth a bash to see if it can be done. Hopefully this weekend sometime (or at least a start on them)