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hendie

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About hendie

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    Stator of the Blessed Obviance

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  1. Fresh from the plumbing disaster that was my weekend - 9 hours, 5 trips to the hardware store, numerous bits, bobs and tools purchased, only to end up in a worse position then when I started - and I'll still need to bring a plumber in as this is now out of my skill set So, what else could go wrong ?... Actually a couple of hours worth of modeling calmed me down somewhat and stopped me from turning into Ballistic Bob a la Chewin' the Fat. First order of the day was to attack the upper hinge casting. Believe it or not I actually used a kit part in here - part 20 from Runner Tree C (I think) - I scanned through the instruction manual (which I've largely been ignoring since I started this build) and could find no reference to those parts either by number or by look-a-like parts in the assembly diagrams. I did have to modify it slightly to get it to fit - that was then faced off with two small wedge shaped strips of styrene as per the big chunky bracket on the 1:1 When viewed straight on, the hinges are perfectly parallel to each other - due to the fact that Fly haven't got the same gap between the hings on the port side as they do on the starboard side. I could have made them parallel but then the brass tubes I've used for the hinge pins would not be in the center of the hinge brackets - you win some you lose some.... Next up was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be... a small piece of brass rod with the end squeezed in the vise to flatten it out. That was then drilled with one of those carbide micro drills (a favorite piece of kit even although they break very easily). 1:1 Finger shown for comparison purposes. No real care was put into the position of the hole - the excess flattened rod was removed after drilling. The end was then radiused with a file... and hey presto... we have one part of the bell crank lever hinge mechanism thingy which you can just about see protruding from the slot about halfway up the tail innards here. Reeling from the euphoria of nothing disintegrating on me or leaking or blowing up I turned my attention to one of the more recently found 'oh-crap-on-a-biscuit' deficits of the kit. Yes, we're talking about the lower mesh panels on the tail. After a bit of thought I determined the following course of action... make them narrower ! Simple! Job Done! Now all I had to do was figure out how to do that. My first stab at this was merely to glue a 1mm strip of styrene in the aperture. I realize that this does not fully address all the flaws in this area, but visually, this is the most apparent. ( I may yet change my mind and attempt some further butchery... tbd and all that...) Once those infills have hardened up, I'll add a sear of filler and smooth it all back down Of course, this requires that I scrap the kit PE and find a suitable alternative. Like this... Success! That piece of PE mesh looks perfect for the job. Unfortunately, it's the last piece of that particular mesh that I have and I need it for the train build. It's also been OOP for several years now Best I scout around and see if I can locate another ebayer charging gouging prices for it.
  2. thanks guys. Unfortunately modeling hours this weekend were scuppered due to plumbing issues. Plumbing and I are akin to Stan and Ollie, a piano, and a long set of steps If the gods have finally stopped messing with me I *may* get an hour or two in today
  3. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Ovals are such a difficult shape to scratch - there's always one quadrant which just doesn't look quite right. Starting to look very interesting now with the detailing started in earnest
  4. coming together very nicely. Re: the cracked transparency... legend has it that a few aircraft of the time were involved in a bit of a tiff so I'm sure at least one aircraft around that time flew with a cracked window - I'd count it as 'weathering'
  5. Catching Pictures in the Air

    Sorry, modeler baiting is one of my favorite pastimes when I can't get near the bench myself. I don't believe anyone has regulated against it yet. For the blinds and similar furnishings, may I make a suggestion ? The tinfoil wrapping from inside cigarette packets. I've used it to great effect on my train build for the concertina type bellows at the gangway entrance. I found standard tinfoil was too plain and prone to tearing easily. The ciggy tinfoil has several benefits: It's thin, it has a debossed pattern (fine grain), and it has a thin paper backing. The paper backing serves to strengthen the tinfoil greatly. You can fold, crease, unfold and it just keeps on working (I found real tinfoil started to tear very easily at the creases). When all crumbled up and flattened out again it looks very like fabric. The paper also takes paint very easily.
  6. Catching Pictures in the Air

    if you find yourself using hand cream and lip balm when changing your car tires you know you've gone too far down that path..... oh.. oh.. center console... cogs n wheels... looking at that kit console, and knowing that you bought a bunch of cogs n wheels, and are thinking of getting into casting, and have a lathe, are proficient in soldering, and are thinking about PE.... I can see that center console in the kit already cowering in trepidation as the Baron's butchery blades approach
  7. Catching Pictures in the Air

    there you go again with your boutique paraphernalia.
  8. Thanks Ian - I'm glad you're happy with it. That was quick - I only got notified the other day that they had successfully printed it. I should point out that the link you posted is actually to the 1:48 version. Searching for SACRU on Shapeways will bring up both versions if anyone's interested. I was really happy with the quality and level of detail of my 1:48 Version on the last Wessi build, but since Shapeways have enhanced their material selection I thought I could add a little bit more detail to the SACRU and it looks to have worked. I'm not sure the detail would translate down to 1:72 but it may be worth a shot sometime. In the course of full disclosure, I am now pretty certain that I will be doing the tail wheel casting through Shapeways as well - the kit part just has too many details missing I'd be interested in seeing any photo's you have of the SACRU, particularly when painted up.
  9. lemme check No they aren't. I'm not even sure the parts I'm looking at are the hinge parts in question - they just sorta look like them.. almost. And the resin part they supply as the center bracketry/bellcrank lever thingy looks like it came off the back of a Massey Ferguson that towed tanks in it's spare time. Guess I'll be making that too. and possibly 3D printing the tail wheel casting - the kit part is the wrong shape, is missing a few features, and generally is all lop sided. I know what you mean Bill. It looks very close according to the drawings, but something about it just doesn't look right. - but that's a rabbit hole too far. gauntlet caught and added to the gauntlet stash
  10. Always willing to learn.... I'll give this color sanding a try. I had a quick look at the parts this evening and they don't look as bad as I had feared - still not perfect by any stretch of the imagination - but something I may be able to work with. Thanks for that! I know it's not everyone's cup of tea.
  11. you just know I have to get you back for that don't you ?
  12. Thanks Bill, but I still have all the photo's you sent me a while back. I think I have enough to keep me digging further into trouble for a while yet. - and I just checked the runner trees. It looks like the "hinges" are included on runner tree C, parts 20. - but only 2 i.e. one side of the tail only.
  13. and to be honest, I'm not all that impressed with them either. I went and grabbed the book with a view to scanning the drawings, but just looking at them was enough. Take a gander at this shot. That area in the 4+ book doesn't look right either so I don't know if we can point the finger directly at Fly for this. They really don't look to be too far off the mark compared to this drawing. grumble mumble frumble hmmmphhh What to do, what to do. I think I may have a plan forming. It won't take care of everything that's wrong with the tail but I think I can make it look better. I think the two reinforcement strips either side of the top hand hold are too far apart, ergo, the top hand hold is just a bit too long. I don't think thre's too much I can do about that. If I close tehm up, I have to shift the entire mesh opening further up the tail I think I may be able to make another mesh panel that's narrower than the kit part - if I can close up some of that opening. That will allow me to move the bottom hand hold up the tail just a tad. Hopefully that will look a little bit better (but then my internal panels are in the wrong place.... damnit). This is going to take some thought. Does any body have any other versions of the Wessex from Fly. I've seen from photo's that they have done some rework to the tail - can someone post a photo if they can please ? It would be nice to compare with the HC2 *edit* never mind - I just found some photo's of the HU5 on t'interwebby and it looks just the same. - which then begs the question, where did I see the tail photo's where the hinge was actually molded ??? Okay I just found it again - why is the HC2 not like that ? It's still not right but it's a darn sight better than the parts I got edit again arghhhhhhh now I need to go and check the runner trees. I spotted a photo which looks like the runner may contain the parts - but no mention of them in the instructions (unless I'm going blind!)
  14. That was always part of the plan. - Bill made me do it on my last build. Looking at photo's (I don't have any decent plans of the tail), I reckon the top line of the mesh should be where the bottom line of the top hand hold is at present, and everything else swiveled (or raised,depending upon your view) to suit. Of course, that then means that my internal framing is out. I need to take a long hard think about this. Any correction no matter how slight then means that other things are going to have to move also. I may be better off scanning the 4+ drawings as there doesn't appear to be anything worthwhile on t'internet. Bugger.
  15. Short update, nothing major. Looking more at the tail I became more and more convinced that it could be made better. The little gussets that Fly provided were a nice touch but didn't really cut the mustard for me. Off they came. They were also in the wrong place, and several were missed. It was a relatively simple job to replace them with little triangles of styrene. I think based on that photo that they are a tad on the large side so I'll trim them down before painting. Next up was to attack one of the other hinges. Same process - drill ridiculously small hole in ridiculously small tube, fit a piece of rod in there and try and solder the little booger. You may just be able to make out the small notch that I've cut in the kit plastic to receive the rod. (hmnnnnnn I was going to leave the Fly gusset plates either side of the hinge, but looking at this photo, I think they too are going to go to) That hinge was CA'd in place, then it was on to the last hinge for this side of the tail. The first three "hinges" were all single, but if you look at the top of the page in Post 401 you can clearly see in Bill's great photo that the last hinge part is a bit more complicated. My first thought was to use a small piece of tube and drill right through - that way I can use the brass rod to attach to the main fuselage. However, now that I look at Bill's photo above, I'm not so sure any longer... I'll think this one through a bit more before I commit myself. But in other news.... again looking at the tail, I'm becoming less and less and even lesser enamored with Fly's offering. Take a look at the photo below. That mesh was bothering me so I finally cut it from the fret and laid it in place. Now compare that to the photo in the book. The Kit parts proportions are all off don't you think ? and as I look at that photo I notice that the bottom hand hold is also in the wrong location. On the kit, it's near the bottom edge of the tail, but on the 1:1 it is much higher. Sod!!! That mesh needs to be much narrower, the ratio of width to height is all wrong. Darnit. That's going to bug me so much I'm going to have to do something about it.
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