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hendie last won the day on January 1 2016

hendie had the most liked content!

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About hendie

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    Stator of the Blessed Obviance

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  1. Dornier Do 18-D

    I use these guys quite a lot, particularly on my train carriage build. They offer brass strips as small as 1.5 mm x 0.8 mm and some incredibly useful I-Beams & C Channels etc. I do realize that being in the colonies, these guys are of little to no use to you, but if that sort of stuff is available here in these backwaters, I'm guessing someone, somewhere over there has similar offerings? I have in the past resorted to using a razor saw on thin brass, though only for small sections. However, you'd be surprised how effective taking a standard scalpel blade and using the reverse edge as a skin knife can be in cutting thin brass. - Like styrene, you only need to score it a couple of times, then bend it and it will break right off. I keep a broken blade just for that purpose, and I think I've 'cut' up to 0.5mm thick brass with that. A quick rub with wire wool will remove any sharp or ragged edges. You might also pick up some good tips from this guy over here
  2. Dornier Do 18-D

  3. with the paint on, that is one incredible "does not look like scratch built" piece of scratch building. Impressive!
  4. Without doubt - yes. There's a sharpness and definition when using metal rod that just is not achievable with plastic, and as Bigdave states, the join is much stronger than glue. I have found it to be an invaluable tool in several builds. Again, as Bigdave mentions, especially for wire framework construction - Plastic tends to be a lot thicker (to have enough strength) than it should be in those scales. So replacing it with a smaller diameter metal provides a much more realistic effect. I've still got that pleasure to come. I'm not looking forward to making a grill Still to be done. I remembered all about that during my previous Wessex build - then promptly forgot all about those supports when it came time to fit the seats. This time they're going in. You're right, my angled bracket is a bit short and the bottom end of it is too high. I need to revisit that. I believe Wafu is talking about another, different support bracket. There is another support rod which swings out from the back rail of the seat and is pip pinned to the floor. (or I could be misinterpreting your post) If you look at the (very useful) photo you posted above, you can just see it behind the grey legs in the middle of the picture. I still have not come across any better information on the cabin seat spacing on the port side since the itlaeri event, so I'm going to wing it again this time around - unless anyone has definitive info on how the seats were configured of course!
  5. Back from the travels again. Oh what fun we had on this trip. We managed to pick a hotel that was undergoing renovations but omitted to display such information on the web site... Look out Hilton, you have a nastygram coming! My room wasn't bad, however one of my travel buddies had a rather more interesting time of things. His floor had just been finished and released back to public use, but it appeared they had been in a little bit of a hurry when it came to putting the doors back on the rooms. (you can see this coming can't you?) The doors were back on oh yes, but not necessarily back on the same room! It took them about three hours to sort it out - resolved only by programming a set of keys for every room on the floor and sending the engineers out on a scouting mission to navigate the door fiasco and figure out which room had which door lock. Oh how we laughed. Well, two if us did - the third wasn't quite so joyous. Anyhoos, back to reality... I just spent ages looking at this photo trying to remember why I took it and what it showed... eventually it came to me - The rear console! 'doh! The kit part sits directly on the no longer a floor part, and is square at the bottom, so out with the files and I started to shape the bottom end into a slope which will hopefully at some point meet up with the cabin forward bulkhead. I also took the plunge and glued in the fwd bulkhead and the cockpit floor. That was a bit of a leap of faith for me - the lack of location features continues to frustrate me. Though I use the term glued in rather loosely. It does touch the inside of the fuselage briefly and in an occasional way, though more of a fleeting, in passing kind of way. With the cabin bulkhead and the cockpit floor in place there are only three small areas where they all contact. Methinks that some support blocks will be coming into play. I made the small cover panel that sits at the front of the cabin - I have no idea what this is for - probably a locker for the loadies sandwiches. The panel was made from .005 brass sheet, and a block of styrene glued behind it. That has since gone off to the paint shop and has also had a handle fitted. While Fly have done some good things with this release, they have also made some real gaffs in my opinion. For instance, take a look at the fuel points in this photo. Neither of them bear any resemblance to the real thing. Something has to be done here, so I drilled out the openings Then added the strengthening panels. Also just visible up the front end is the front earthing connection which was made from brass tube. (the rear hasn't been done yet) Once the glue had fully cured I set about opening up the fuel access point with a round file Once that was completed, I went to add a backing piece inside the fuselage and found that the depth through the kit was too great. That resulted in me digging out the rear with a chisel. And in a moment of carelessness, or maybe frustration, I popped the chisel right through the front. Angry I was!!! I've repaired it as best I can but need to wait for the glue curing before I can do any more. I'll squirt some primer on it tomorrow to see just what kind of mess I'm dealing with. So while I was cursing myself for such carelessness, I started making up the fuel filler cap from the following recipe: 2 x styrene discs, 1 x flattened lead wire, and 1 x small section of styrene rod. Simply add glue to taste, then stir well. And a quick dry fit. There's still some more work to do here - particularly after my stuff-up, but it's still way better than the kit offering. And once it's all painted black, you'll never notice any of the detail anyway! Something that went a little better - for a little while at least - was the seats. Two bracing rods were added, then I used the 1-2-3 block as a support for the legs while I soldered them in place using the Tix low temp solder. (which is an absolute pleasure to use I might add) When it came to a dry fit I discovered that I had one leg slightly out of place, but nothing too drastic. I still haven't decided whether to remove it and refit or just leave as is. Of more concern is the seat height. I have followed the dimensions of the kit for the seat but I'm not sure if it is too low ? At least, that was my first thought, though the more I look at the photo below, the more I am beginning to think that the height is okay. Thoughts ?
  6. Dornier Do 18-D

    I'm almost astounded and have to say a little bit disappointed that no-one has made a joke of that yet. I've come to expect better from this thread. I think you chose the best option making the flaperon/flaptuators from scratch, though once again, a bit disappointed that you didn't cut a whole series of ribs and skin them.
  7. now that's looking splendiferously splendid. Unless of course you simply wrap a small piece of masking tape around the end of the tweezers! ...which I always forget to do!
  8. Dornier Do 18-D

    I was always a bit partial to DAF myself. This was always a great ice breaker in the clubs many many moons ago Geh' in die Knie Und klatsch' in die Hände Beweg' deine Hüften Und tanz' den Mussolini Tanz' den Mussolini Tanz' den Mussolini I don't suppose there's a great many words rhyme with Mussolini so I think they made the best of it. I was just biding my time... I knew it was coming.
  9. looking very impressive Ian. Regardless of the scale discrepancy it really looks the part - I just dunno how you managed to stuff the engine and all the other bits in such a small space.
  10. Not at all Pete - great photo's and show off what I'm nattering on about. Today's work - a non event really involved making that floor mounted thingy with the curved top just in front of the bulkhead and visible in your 1st photo. I also glued the front bulkhead in position. I have to be honest and say that the kit is really starting to annoy me. Devoid of location features is one thing but you'd at least expect the pieces to fit. Unfortunately they, in most cases, do not. For example, the width at the rear of the floor section is narrower then the rear bulkhead which it fits to. The front of the floor section is wider than the bottom edge of the front bulkhead. I did a dry fit today and I have a huge gap all the way up the starboard side with the front bulkhead. Oh - and once I fit the cockpit floor in, the front of the fuselage won't close - but that could well be down to me in that instance If memory serves (no guarantees given whatsoever!) the tie down ring flipped out and gave access to a boss in the recess which the seat stanchion locked on to.
  11. congratulations Bill - a very well deserved trophy
  12. arghh - wish I'd known that lot were available when I was doing the Lysander build this coming along very nicely
  13. you were lucky - I always got the other end of the time which was mostly sand with a little bit of paint dribbled in it. what can I say ? I like to live on the edge. Though I'm not quite sure of which edge - I seem to be a bit indecisive these days. The result of which, made me end up making two versions of the floorboards (so far!) The only difference between them is that one version has two cut-outs for the tie down rings adjacent to the cabin door, and the other version has not. To be completely honest, I have no idea which version we had in 28 Sqn... one, the other, or maybe even both!. I've found photo's on line of both versions being fitted... I'll make my mind up later... maybe... or not However I did make a concession to moving forward by gluing the cabin floor in position. (I may come to regret this later) The main reason for the cabin floor going in was so that I could get the forward bulkhead fitted, though when I did a trial fit I spotted another problem. Look at the overhand from the cockpit floor intruding into the cabin area. Sorry, not going to happen - that part is a bit of fantasy... or poor research. So the overhang was duly trimmed and the cockpit floor glued to the bulkhead. A 1-2-3 block is handy for keeping the 90° angle between the parts while the glue dries. Now we get into the boring parts. Yet it's always the boring parts which cause the most problems isn't it? Why is that? Troop seats.. Boring. In the grey we have the kit supplied seat parts. In the brass we have my home brewed DIY make yer own troop seats kit (or at least part of it). But before we proceed any further we need to do a little bit of investigating... carefully place kit part in location... keep eyes open... draw a deep breath... stop cursing! Well, that's not going to fit is it? To be fair, Fly ask you to cut down that frame - but it's still not going to be right. The troop seats go the full length of the cabin wall on the starboard side. SO, after a little bit of measuring - at least twice! Fire up the soldering iron and we end up with this.... messy bunch of brass bits. (I finally realized my soldering iron wasn't hot enough) I used a combination of different diameter brass rods and brass tube to create the frame. The tube is the front of the seat frame. Note the Fly seats in the photo. A novel, if not particularly effective attempt for the seats. I'll give them some points for innovation there. Unfortunately I'll subtract those points for not making the seats the right size. On the starboard side, there are 5 troop seats. You can see here that they do not fit within the available space. I guess I'll be making those too then. Some quick math (or sums as we used to call it back in primary 1) and we have a solution. Seat backs 9 mm wide with a 2 mm gap between each seat and a 1 mm gap on each end. Of course I don't have any actual measurements to go from but based on all the photo's I have available, these ratios look about right. I also marked out where the upright supports should be located. All seems pretty straightforward from here. So, back to making the seats. You can see that solder cleans up pretty easily. The uprights were a bit more problematic. You can see the kit part above - the angled strut would end up hitting the seat fabric, so I added a couple of degrees to the angle as shown below and it all appears to work out. Of course, soldering such small parts and keeping everything accurate is nigh on impossible, so I start off with longer lengths and cut back once soldered. I used my scribing tool to gouge out two grooves in the styrene at 30° apart, blue tac the brass in the grooves and hit it with some solder and were done. I just have to cut the upright support to the correct length - and square. So I drew a line, aligned the seat frame with it, and the support to that - the pencil line shows me where I need to cut the angled support to keep everything square. like so.... Now just one little thing to check - it had been gnawing at me - if Fly had got the size of the seats wrong... what else had they got wrong? I marked out the seat frame with two pencil marks - this is where the upright supports should go - the needles are pointing right where the vertical support goes. Yup, they don't line up with the tie downs, which also happen to be the location where the vertical stanchions are located! So I am left with two options: 1) throw the kit in the bin and go back to my train. 2) Make a complete new floor with tie downs etc. in the right place (I have no dimensions!). Okay then three options. Option 3) Fit the stanchions where they will align with the tie downs and live with the fact that the cut outs in the seat will be in the wrong place. So I quit for the night ! and will come back to this later although option 3 is looking favorite at the moment. booger!