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hendie

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hendie last won the day on December 29 2017

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About hendie

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  1. Always willing to learn.... I'll give this color sanding a try. I had a quick look at the parts this evening and they don't look as bad as I had feared - still not perfect by any stretch of the imagination - but something I may be able to work with. Thanks for that! I know it's not everyone's cup of tea.
  2. you just know I have to get you back for that don't you ?
  3. Thanks Bill, but I still have all the photo's you sent me a while back. I think I have enough to keep me digging further into trouble for a while yet. - and I just checked the runner trees. It looks like the "hinges" are included on runner tree C, parts 20. - but only 2 i.e. one side of the tail only.
  4. and to be honest, I'm not all that impressed with them either. I went and grabbed the book with a view to scanning the drawings, but just looking at them was enough. Take a gander at this shot. That area in the 4+ book doesn't look right either so I don't know if we can point the finger directly at Fly for this. They really don't look to be too far off the mark compared to this drawing. grumble mumble frumble hmmmphhh What to do, what to do. I think I may have a plan forming. It won't take care of everything that's wrong with the tail but I think I can make it look better. I think the two reinforcement strips either side of the top hand hold are too far apart, ergo, the top hand hold is just a bit too long. I don't think thre's too much I can do about that. If I close tehm up, I have to shift the entire mesh opening further up the tail I think I may be able to make another mesh panel that's narrower than the kit part - if I can close up some of that opening. That will allow me to move the bottom hand hold up the tail just a tad. Hopefully that will look a little bit better (but then my internal panels are in the wrong place.... damnit). This is going to take some thought. Does any body have any other versions of the Wessex from Fly. I've seen from photo's that they have done some rework to the tail - can someone post a photo if they can please ? It would be nice to compare with the HC2 *edit* never mind - I just found some photo's of the HU5 on t'interwebby and it looks just the same. - which then begs the question, where did I see the tail photo's where the hinge was actually molded ??? Okay I just found it again - why is the HC2 not like that ? It's still not right but it's a darn sight better than the parts I got edit again arghhhhhhh now I need to go and check the runner trees. I spotted a photo which looks like the runner may contain the parts - but no mention of them in the instructions (unless I'm going blind!)
  5. That was always part of the plan. - Bill made me do it on my last build. Looking at photo's (I don't have any decent plans of the tail), I reckon the top line of the mesh should be where the bottom line of the top hand hold is at present, and everything else swiveled (or raised,depending upon your view) to suit. Of course, that then means that my internal framing is out. I need to take a long hard think about this. Any correction no matter how slight then means that other things are going to have to move also. I may be better off scanning the 4+ drawings as there doesn't appear to be anything worthwhile on t'internet. Bugger.
  6. Short update, nothing major. Looking more at the tail I became more and more convinced that it could be made better. The little gussets that Fly provided were a nice touch but didn't really cut the mustard for me. Off they came. They were also in the wrong place, and several were missed. It was a relatively simple job to replace them with little triangles of styrene. I think based on that photo that they are a tad on the large side so I'll trim them down before painting. Next up was to attack one of the other hinges. Same process - drill ridiculously small hole in ridiculously small tube, fit a piece of rod in there and try and solder the little booger. You may just be able to make out the small notch that I've cut in the kit plastic to receive the rod. (hmnnnnnn I was going to leave the Fly gusset plates either side of the hinge, but looking at this photo, I think they too are going to go to) That hinge was CA'd in place, then it was on to the last hinge for this side of the tail. The first three "hinges" were all single, but if you look at the top of the page in Post 401 you can clearly see in Bill's great photo that the last hinge part is a bit more complicated. My first thought was to use a small piece of tube and drill right through - that way I can use the brass rod to attach to the main fuselage. However, now that I look at Bill's photo above, I'm not so sure any longer... I'll think this one through a bit more before I commit myself. But in other news.... again looking at the tail, I'm becoming less and less and even lesser enamored with Fly's offering. Take a look at the photo below. That mesh was bothering me so I finally cut it from the fret and laid it in place. Now compare that to the photo in the book. The Kit parts proportions are all off don't you think ? and as I look at that photo I notice that the bottom hand hold is also in the wrong location. On the kit, it's near the bottom edge of the tail, but on the 1:1 it is much higher. Sod!!! That mesh needs to be much narrower, the ratio of width to height is all wrong. Darnit. That's going to bug me so much I'm going to have to do something about it.
  7. I finally bit the bullet and tried again. Paint was decanted from the aerosol and left for a few hours to off-gas. The airbrush was cleaned, new needle and nozzle fitted. The spray booth was cleaned the other day to give the dust time to settle. I bought some new enamel thinners as the Humbrol tin had gone all rusty inside and flakes of who knows what floating around in it. I don't think I'll be buying Humbrol again anytime soon. Everything set, I took a deep breath and started. Fail! I started getting some kind of speckling on the surface. Luckily I had spotted it before I went too far, so I cleaned everything off with some thinners on a rag. Okay, lets start again. Everything was cleaned thoroughly with IPA and dried. No dust anywhere near. This time I went straight from the aerosol.... No, it's not perfect but it might just be salvageable. I'll give it a couple of days to harden up and I'll hit it with some micro-mesh and see what we end up with. There's definitely some dust which managed to get through my defenses, but more worrying is a couple of spots where the paint didn't want to take (again). Anyway, we'll see how we get on. This paint job is the single biggest hold up to me really moving forward with this build. I'm determined it's not going to beat me again. If I can't get a decent finish from this paint, it looks like a couple of hours drive to a model shop - the only one anywhere near which stocks a large selection of paints. I should be able to find something close now that I know what I am looking for.
  8. agreed. Do you need to wait for Airifx ? couldn't you make that part from some clear packaging ?
  9. BR86 2-8-2t Tank Locomotive

    that is beginning to look very nice. It's one of those instances where the PE really does make a difference
  10. well, maybe not quite eureka but worth considering.... if you need to replicate ribbed tubing/ducting - How about using a length of lead wire of appropriate diameter, then rolling it with a knife blade (but not cutting through). The lead should be soft enough to take a good indentation. Just repeat several hundred times along the length and you should have a good substitute
  11. Best Laser Decal Paper 2017

    I'm not sure if it's available in the UK but I tried a few different types before settling on decal paper by Papilio. It was easy to work with and gave some really good results, and the film thickness was 0.0015" - barely noticeable once applied. One warning though - I had some in the stash for about a year and went to use it - the clear film broke up inside the printer, almost as if it had become brittle. I'm putting that down to being my fault for holding onto it for so long and probably not storing it correctly. I'll be ordering more though for my next custom decals
  12. ok, I'll have to admit to being stumped there Bill. I can't think of any way to replicate that in perduoscale, but I'll report back if I have a eureka moment
  13. well bless my cotton socks. I didn't realize that my last update in here was last September I almost feel awkward at popping in here for such a short update. Well, the best laid plans of mice and men and all that.... I've spent since Saturday in bed with old man disease so haven't got anywhere near the modeling bench. It did however give me some time to start working on the etch frets for Pegasus. I'm going to be testing the limits of my photo etching skills with some of these parts I think. I've shown the frets here without any fill just for clarity of the image. From Fret A, top left: Ventilator coverings, immediately below that are a sign, and 5 x escutcheon plates for the door handles. Below that are the exterior frames for the kitchen and bathroom windows. To the right of that is an arrow (!), then a sign for the Trianon bar. In Fret B we have from top left: some more escutcheon plates, and below that is a part for the artwork that hung behind the bar. To the right of that are more parts for the artwork. I'm not convinced that these parts will turn out but it's worth a try. This picture/artwork hung in the bar way back in the 50's (I think). Unbelievably, although it had gotten lost over the years, it was found again and the owner of the carriage secured it so we were able to install it back in it's rightful place behind the bar for the launch of the car back to service. The only thing I have got to lose is some time - the material cost is relatively cheap so it's worth a bash to see if it can be done. Hopefully this weekend sometime (or at least a start on them)
  14. Airfix Nimrod MR.1

    I'd certainly be interested in learning of all the shortcomings in the airfix kit (of which there seem to be plenty) as I recently acquired one and it will become a future build
  15. that looks like a lovely bit of scratching there Bill. I can see that developing into a very nice wing fold mechanism. Have you tried looking at Ultra Fine Magnet Wire ? I think that's available down to Ø0.1 mm or less or was it more of a rhetorical question ?
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