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gcn

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  1. gcn

    Eyelet

    https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page47.html
  2. I paint in the garage and I find when we get to this time of year there is much more moisture in the air and I need a trap at both ends otherwise I get the same issues as you are describing. in the summer I can get away with just the compressor’s moisture trap.
  3. Interesting. Thanks for that. I rushed off to the garage to check Xf-51 against my gunze brown violet (421) but I don’t have it. A comparison chart said they are comparable, so if you want the sheen Then the gunze should suffice. the colour looks good to me and I think I’ll paint my Wingnut camel in Belgium livery in that shade. I was going to add about 25% brown.
  4. I had wood on the brain, the modeller is Andy Moore linky Here there’s a detailed build over on themodellingnews also
  5. Hi Eivind according to the WNW instructions the Pfalz interior was a grey green, that’s what I’ve always painted mine as they are far more knowledgeable than I. However, to get a light wood effect similar to The external wood on an Albatros I use oils. I prime with a lightened desert yellow. Apply cadmium yellow to create the overall shade and then dot randomly with a raw sienna (the reddish one) and drag the dots to create the grain. once dry I apply Tamiya clear yellow mixed with a couple of drops of tamiya clear to keep it glossy. I then apply a highly thinned tamiya smoke mixed with a brown to create shadows and tonal variations. andy wood used Vallejo glaze medium and Vallejo acrylics to create a grain effect on his stunning Sopwith Pup build on here recently. Have a look at that for an alternative.
  6. I have an AMG Hawker Hart waiting for an excuse to get built. This may change if the proposed Lukagraph Nimrod finds its way to me. Gary
  7. That engine looks the business. There’s enough copper in there to keep the scrap man happy. I don’t know why WNW did the back of the seat like that as it’s quite visible. watching with interest.
  8. gcn

    Custom masks

    Thanks, I’ll get in contact with them.
  9. gcn

    Custom masks

    I’ve been out of the hobby for a number of years and previously used my silhouette portrait to make custom masks. Now I‘Ve spent a fortune buying new all the stuff I got rid of I don’t think I could quite get away with buying another silhouette, so who is the go to company these days for custom made masks.
  10. If it’s any biplane then how about trying the ICM Gladiator. You can cut your teeth on the rigging, but you won’t get to try out the wood and linen effects. I’ve no experience of the Roden kits, but I think their Albatros is meant to be reasonable. I’d agree, a SE5a is pushing it as your first attempt at rigging, although saying that the WNW one was mine. I could have chosen better. As has been pointed out scaling down opens you up to Eduard’s range, which are cheap and plentiful. Be warned you may find yourself only building biplanes in the not too distant.
  11. The problem with white, yellow and red is you need lots of coats to get the colour you desire. I found that to spray lots of coats very quickly if I thinned just with IPA then I could continuously spray without having to wait for the paint to dry as it dries almost instantly. The finish isn’t great and can be a touch dusty so a rub down with an old cloth and a few top coats of white thinned with mr color levelling thinner makes it all good. This is over black too. I use either Gunze or tamiya paints.
  12. gcn

    Junkers J1

    From what I remember there’s a thread from hyperscale way back when that had a fix of the accuracy issue with the top wing, if that’s the kind of thing you care about. Viking did a rather nice job here
  13. I'd argue that 1/32 doesn't warrant worrying about turnbuckle types and rigging wire profiles, well it hasn't yet on the 12 WNW kits I've built to date, but I appreciate we are all different. I'd go with the brass sleeve and your rigging line of choice For rigging my preference would be EZ line although I'd buy it from a UK source rather than WNW. For the Albatros I'd rig the undercarriage with 2lb fishing line as sometimes the albatros can end up with one wing higher than the other and the fishing line is strong enough to bring them in line.
  14. Find out what paint colour you're trying to replicate and buy a manufacturers jar that doesn't need mixing. Or carefully tip the jar so one drop comes out at a time and do it by eye. You didn't state how you're applying the paint but be warned tamiya can be a difficult paint to apply by brush.
  15. As has already been noted what you are paying is the VAT plus the processing fee. WNW helpfully state the price in NZD which has a more favourable rate than the USD at the moment, but you also pay VAT on the delivery. Although it is free unless a cost is stated they (HMRC) will estimate a figure. The answer to all this is to get WNW to post DDP, but I'm sure they won't do that or it'll be more expensive than it already is. Buying individual kits it's almost worth just going to Hannants, but once you buy more than one they become less attractive. I've never got anything free of tax from NZ
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