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Finished this Do17Z built in the WW2 twins group build. It's the modern Airfix 1/72 kit which goes together quite nicely, apart from the engines which are a bit of a pain. Displayed next to my old tool version WIP thread:

Well, that's not a very flattering thing to call your wife! 😲

Was driving towards the offramp leading to a great local hobby shop, and my wife suggested I pop in for a treat. Left the motorway like Ari Vatanen rounding a corner! Anyway, came away with an Eduard MiG-15bis Profipack. Can't decide on the United Arab Republic or Hungarian scheme, both are visually compelling.

Good evening all, Here today I have my 2nd attempt at this Revell kit. The first was a disaster, broke pylons, glued the wings too far forward amongst other things. Parts used for this kit were the SBS models nose and pitot tubes and also the freightdog conversion kit. All other little modifications were scratch built (badly) by me and the decals were supplied by Xtradecal. I opted to use tiny neodymium magnets to connect the pylons to the wings which have turned out to work really well. Thanks for looking Dave

It's almost done. I have to add the props, wheel bay doors, fabricate a pitot tube and maybe some more small work. I also got a new camera set up with one of those photo tents, so I'm playing around with that a bit as well.

Hi Everyone, Had this kit lurking about unstarted for a couple of years, as I wanted to do a different scheme to the kit offerings So here`s Revell`s 1/48 Ventura done as an earlier aircraft in the two colour US Navy scheme and 1943 markings Finished to represent an aircraft flown by VB/VPB-136, Adak, Aleutian Islands, 1943 Built from a combination of the Octopus marked boxing and the more recent RAF marked issue The decals all came from the stash and used Steve Ginters `Naval Fighters Number 86` as main reference The `Grumpys` are a bit of artistic license as early Venturas often had factory applied Walt Disney Cartoon figures painted on them. Added a few blinds and curtains to the windows as quite a few photo`s seen to show. Lastly here it is with my earlier effort of the same kit in the markings of VB/VPB-135 also an Aleutians based aircraft Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ

Bad for head-gasket repairs

The good old '163 Academy requires various interventions, both in the cockpit area… …and in the exterior of the fuselage, in the wings and finally in the complex undercarriage-skid. The specimen being built is the Me163 B V45, in charge of the Erprobungskommando 16, as it appeared in Bad Zwischenahn in July 1944. The following December it was used to test the SG500 rocket system, which caused irreparable damage to the airframe. The camouflage scheme, slightly different from that of most Komets, consists of RLM 81/82/76. The fuselage decals are Print Scale 72-303 and, as always, the model is painted entirely by brush with Humbrol Enamels color blends. View of the undersurfaces. Hope you like it. Thanks for your interest. Giampiero Piva

And another model completed and the photos go to the gallery, S.M. 79-II "Sparviero", 283 squadriglia, 130 gruppo autonoma, Mediterranean 1942. feel free to visit the gallery.

A few books this week. Thanks to @Pete in Lincs a copy of Michael Caine's "Blowing the Bloody Doors Off" from a local 2nd hand book seller & from Amazon a couple of books to get free postage. "Gone the Dark Night" by Graham Clayton, a follow up to his "Last Stand in Singapore" I read recently & the story of the recreated 488(NZ) sqn as a night fighter unit. Also, "To Save an Army", the story of the Stalingrad airlift by Robert Forsyth, a topic I've long been curious about, this should satisfy most of that I feel. Steve.

After having a couple of projects ruined by crappy Academy decals, the 'Red Tail' P-51C that they came from was left on the shelf. No more. First coat of primer is on, combat role identified, decals easily sourced from a totally different aircraft in the stash. Note that I used the Malcolm Hood that was an extra part in the kit. Stay tuned...

A suggestion for replacing the doors you so meticulously chain drilled out. As you have a second Mariner available, why not use that as a template to make a buck to then crash mould new doors? Gondor

Am a Brown Sauce on a Bacon Buty but chili sauce elsewhere. And the pen saved my sanity. Cheers Colin, I am impressed with the "Quilting effect" too. I tried that , leveled them off the best I could but still a lip sadly. Looks like a large sanding job coming up. Thanks @franky boy, @Hamden, @Retired Bob, @CH-53D, @elger, @dogsbody and @Stew Dapple. Well, how many shades of Black today ? Three.. Starting with Semi Gloss. Next NATO. Then Rubber. I have still to mask the tail wheel for the Aluminium. Wings and ailerons given a coat of primer. And the "Blanking Panels" added and filled, just a lot of sanding to do some when tomorrow. Sunshine .... Simon.

You could use plastic card, etc. to detail the internal structure. Just a thought. Cheers, Bill

Started stenciling. Still quite pristine-looking, will add some wee dirt later. Skipping stencils on the green tail, unsure if they’d put them back. Decided on olive drab warheads on the rockets, with dark grey or black fins. Haven’t found anything definite, so have to make a guess. The tanks look odd because they are hanging by a thread, literally. I always had problems getting tanks to stick on Airfix hardpoints.

I saw something interesting yesterday. The cat hid the little kittens in the woodshed. And she went somewhere on her cat business. At this time, the fox came and smelled the smell of kittens. See for yourself what happened next.

Having been quiet for a few days; well quietish on BM. The same could not be said for the Martian cave where I have been trying to juggle this beast with soldering another Zeppelin. Mrs Martian says that some of the expressions emanating from my room would make a Vogon blush. However, further reading has established that these as a bulkhead either end of the bunk compartment and that the same had a deckhead which supported a stool for the astrodome. This lets me off having to detail the entire interior of the hull. Most of the time has been spent sorting out the bulkhead and adding structure to the starboard side of the hull, all the time trying to ensure that it meets up with the portside structure. It did: eventually. I have some tidying up of the bulkhead and partition that goes just aft of it to do, so I am going to have to let the glue cure for a day or two. After a final push, you know, the one @general melchett is always going on about, we can then begin to think about adding equipment to the hull. No Melchett! not your secret "chum" Miss Lucy 'Quipment! Anyone up for helping his Generalship with an ice cold shower? The bit I am not looking forward to is the equipment rack that fits in what had been the galley on the dedicated flying boat versions of the Mariner. I keep thinking that it would be fun to do an Operation High Jump boat used for the aerial mapping of Antarctica....... Anyhow, I'm waffling now so let's have some pictures and thanks for looking. Martian 👽

Quick update - the FA.2 had a probe mounted on the leading edge of the vertical tail as can be seen here: Although Special Hobby provide this in styrene it looks rather like the Blob That Ate Cincinnati™. I figured there had to be another way, so I rummaged through the Island of Misfit Fiddly Bits and found an unused turned metal pitot from Master that looked reasonably close. I fashioned a fairing of sorts, added it to the tail, and drilled a 0.010 inch hole to accept the pitot. I popped in the metal bit and I think it will work. In any event, it looks better than the Blob. Also note that I had to drill a hole to accept the port tailplane - for some reason Special Hobby left that out of my kit. It's no doubt hanging out with those other holes from Blackburn, Lancashire. Cheers, Bill PS. Note also added a hole for the RAM air exhaust. The windscreen is on, and I've blended it into the fuselage. I'm now doing some minor work on the intakes, and then it will be time for paint. Luckily, in my rummaging around, I found a bottle of Hataka Roundel Blue. I have no recollection of ever buying it. PPS. Most importantly, I cleaned my workbench. Much better now.

Let's not confuse the internet in general with a forum like this where kits are discussed by people with a certain knowledge of the real thing. Yes Britmodeller may have a good following but it is still only one source on the web. Numbers may look high but within the bigger scheme of things they are not as massive as they may look. We may have 28,000 visits a day but how many of these are multiple visits by the same person ? Sure there are at any given time several hundred people connected (checked just now, there are around a thousand people at the moment, over 800 of these not members) and mind, they are great numbers! Still, overall it's only a few thousand. Even assuming that all of them would be reading about say the Italeri Fw.190D and its issues, how many of these few thousands would actually change their mind because of what they may read here ? Some will sure do but I bet that a lot would just not care. Similar things may be said about other forums.. of which there's a good number although generally only the ones in English language have an international reach. I have to say that forums too vary in regard to the aspects discussed. We may harshly criticize a kit here but the same kit may well be highly rated on a different forum because of the different slant of the members. Model companies are sure well aware of the importance of an online presence, it would be a crime not to be ! Italeri has a long established online presence and as a company they are very "social", with not only a presence on the main platforms but also a number of initiatives aimed at involving the modelling community. For any bad thing we may say on this forum about one of their products, they would be able to counter on multiple channels with a "firepower" much superior to ours. The same applies to all other companies, they are all on the web, they all have their social media pages, they all run initiatives to connect with the customer base. They pay people to organize these things, people who do it for a job and know to best get the message through. I can't see why they should be scared by my comments on Britmodeller when they can access many more people in more convincing ways. Then there are all the other websites, youtubers, Facebook groups and so on... Websites... some are run by enthusiastic modellers (a number also contribute here) and will have no problem in pointing the good and bad of a kit. Others are run by people who have less interest in analysing a kit and may focus on other things. Then there are websites that have as a policy to never criticize a kit. I know as a fact that there are even people running websites who contact model companies asking for free kits promising good reviews in return! Modellers as a result will find very different opinions on a kit depending on which of these websites they hit. They may get a complete assessment of every rivet or they may get a "builds well, little filler needed" rating or even a "great kit, just buy it so next time I'll get another free kit" kind of review. Facebook... there are a lot of Facebook groups devoted to our hobby and it's not hard to find groups with over 10,000 members. Granted, only a fraction of them will actually contribute (same as here in the end) but the contributions can really be very variable, from some real insight to some that can't tell a Spitfire from a Buccaneer. Yet these have quite a good reach... although it's a fact that single individuals are often members of more than one group. Youtube is pretty much the same, channels there vary a lot in quality but most of the time they don't go into much depth in the pros and cons of a kit. Personally I've seen some impressive builds on youtube with some very useful videos showing how to apply a certain technique but if I need an assessment on a kit it's a platform that gives me very little... but maybe I just haven't found the right YT channel. So really do we think that if we on this forum don't like the newest Italeri issue this will make a big dent in their sales ??? Our voice may be authoritative (at least to me the voice of some here is) but it's but one in a crowd. Of course sometime the crowd may start singing with one voice and companies may change their mind (see the Trumpeter 1/32 Wildcat story). Most times the criticism would just be confined to a niche and companies would still keep offering the kit as it is. Companies that received heavy criticism are still around while companies that offered great products have closed. When a company has to close it's because they have done something wrong, most of the time something that has little to do with the plastic kit that ends up in our ends. Most times it's because they are badly managed or have financial issues or they got the distribution wrong and other similar things. That brings me to Italeri (afterall this is a thread about Italeri): sure they must have done something right if they are the only European mainstream company from the '70s still around in the hands of the original owners ! And it's easy to see where they their strengths are: a wide but balanced catalogue (proper mix of safe and less common subjects) and a very good distribution. In the past these were also complemented by a very reasonable pricing policy. Now this has been changing quite a bit and Italeri is becoming expensive, too expensive for the quality they offer. Will this continuous increase in prices be a problem for the company ? Not if others suffer the same fate (Airfix prices are also increasing considerably), however others manage to offer quality at good prices. Someone here keep criticising companies like Eduard for their prices... well, today Italeri is the expensive company, not Eduard ! Italeri still holds the advantage in terms of distribution so they may not worry (and Eduard's range is still very limited). My local hobby shop however is now starting to have more Hobby 2000 and Special Hobby kits than Italeri ones in the window.... So, Italeri's Fw.190D... it was considered the best on the market in the '80s, superior to the then recent Airfix one and the various older offerings. Today however we're not in the '80s anymore and there's better stuff around. Yes the Academy kit may be OOP but it's easy enough to find for a tenner or little more and it's a much nicer kit. Italeri's old Dora may still be of interest for those who don't mind raised panel lines but at €16 ???? To me it's an absurd price compared to the competition. I've already seen shops offering the kit for less, at say €12 it may be a more interesting product.. but then the same shop that sells it for €12 sells Eduard Spitfire kits for €10

If you had any integrity, you would remove your post. Suggesting that people criticizing Italeri quality/price must be paid shills for Asian model companies is both ridiculous, and offensive.

used chewing gum, Blue-Tak

Hello! Here’s my recent project, the Bf-110C. It has been in my "need to build" list for a while, such an iconic bird. However, I have to say, after several built Eduard kits, this one was kind of a disappointment. I mean, the details are great, specially in the cockpit, but it has some fitting issues. The nose/guns bay is engineered to be built open, because if you decide, like me, to have it closed, brace for impact! You’ll end up with steps, gaps and a lot of sanding and scribing. Also, the area being rounded doesn’t help either. The machine guns are really fragile (broke one of them a few times). The landing gears are just ok, I’ve added a lead wire to simulate hydraulic lines, and they also require attention to have them in place. And let’s not forget the clear parts. The landing light is a chunk of clear plastic way larger than its place to be. And, to glue the front lateral windows and gunner panels in the open position is also a hard task, for they don’t have any decent points of contact with the fuselage and/or other panels. To maintain these areas free of excess glue is quite challenging. The kit has a few row of rivets between the engines and the fuselage, so I’ve decided to rivet it all, and I’m happy with the result. Rose the riveter was the tool of choice. A very nice point are these new Eduard decals that you can remove the film from afterwards. They’ve worked great and the final effect is really good! Paints were a mix of Gunze lacquer and aqueous, well diluted for the motling, when needed. Hope you’ll enjoy. Cheers!

Beautiful Cousin, it’s the Scheme I want to do.

Minor niggles aside (and notes made for when I do mine) she's looking good, Pete James

Not sure technically if these are true spots, but I'll post them anyway. My Caterham had a cold starting issue, so I've been at a specialist getting it repaired today (it turned out that the rubber mount the throttle bodies attach to was slightly perished allowing air to be drawn in), but she's all fixed and better than ever 😀👍. I won't bore you with hundred of Caterham pics (but trust me I could 😀). However this lovely Renault Alpine was parked outside About 100 yards up the road there is another specialist, can you guess the Marque? Saving the best till last All in all a good day and it even stayed dry for the drive home - Andy

What do you think? by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

U/c doors on. There were a couple of problems. Firstly the instructions for the inner main doors may not be quite correct - either that or I have got an alignment problem with the main legs which seems unlikely. Here are the instructions- As you can see you have to glue the small parts 2 and 3 onto the top of the main door and the instructions clearly show them at right angles. Fortunately I test fitted them before the glue dried and found that small parts hit the engine "bulges" and prevented the pins on the main doors lining up with the holes in the legs so I had to reduce the angle to about 60 degrees to get them on, and then push them back down - they still were not quite at 90 degrees - possibly about 80 or so, The other problem is one the General mentioned in his build on BM and concerns the nose doors. Although Airfix now seem to use laser scanning to draw up their plans when they can get at a preserved aircraft, that presumably was not the case when this kit was being designed and there was mention of a number of errors. One was that the nose wheel bay was far too wide, which in turn meant that the doors hung too far down, so like the General I have cut them down a little. In his thread there is mention of Airfix staff crawling about under the preserved Valiant taking photos, but it is suggested that some of the errors arise from copying plans from the same source used by Richard Caruana in his drawings! These days kits seem to come with a lot of stencil which is good to a point though some are so small as to be virtually invisible and are a b*gger to handle. One of the problems with this kit is that unlike some other manufacturers (Japanese I suspect) whose kits I have built recently, Airfix do not provide an enlarged image of the stencil so it is at times difficult to work out their alignment - this is an example from the Valiant - the Phantom and Buccaneer kits had the same problem, and it looks like the latest Vulcan kit is the same.. The above pic is a couple of Centimetres smaller than the actual sheet but you will get the idea. For example there are quite a few "hook" type lifting stencils and it is hard to work out the correct way round. It also does not help that some of them in the anti-flash scheme are pale blue as is the backing sheet, so once you put them in water they become invisible! Oh well, I will get there in the end. Fortunately, when I magnify the copy I have on the computer most of them become just about legible! Pete

Hmm, am I the only one getting a huge gap here? Hope I didn’t put the wings at some odd angle. Anyhow that’s how it will be because it’s all glued together. Despite my best efforts the ”glass” pieces have a small gap that will require awkward and careful filling, between the large top piece and the starboard side piece.

I mixed up a variation of the @Corsairfoxfouruncle 'Aluminum Dope', i.e. 50/50 grey primer and aluminum. It went on well and looks more the part than the straight NMF. I let that dry for a few hours and then went into the decals, which, as per any Amodel decal set I have ever used, all but shattered. I was able to piece them together with some patience, lots of water and some colourful language. I will spray them with satin varnish later tonight after they are dry. They are too delicate/thin for a hairy brush. I let them unroll themselves, btw...no sense making them worse! Port and starboard are the same configuration... Time to let that dry. Other things to do. I am back on the mainland tomorrow for a couple of nights so I want to get some of this off the bench before I go. --John

You, getting out of the Naughty Corner CC? The only chance you have of getting out of the Naughty Corner is by opening up a portal to another dimension; and then you would probably find Mme CC waiting for you with a Naughty Corner of her own devising. Sill want to escape? No? I thought not! Cynical of Mars 👽

-ing down the house (wonder how it was when those 80s songs (classics now) were received when they were heard for the very first time. I was around but never listened to radio then)

Hi all. This is the first model with desert decoration that he has made in many years and the second in total. I hope that the mistakes I have made in this one will not be made again in an Arma Hobby 1/72 Hurricane MK IIC that I have in stock. I would have liked to have placed the ventral fuel tank but I realized that I had not placed it once I had glued the model to the base. Now I think it could cause damage that is difficult to repair and if it were, I honestly don't feel like undertaking it. I really enjoyed this kit from Special Hobby and I can't recommend it enough. Thanks to everyone who has followed the build and encouraged me with their kind comments. This can be seen in the following link. Andrés.

The first thing that surprised me was that the fit of the fuselage is actually pretty good. It's not glued or taped together in this pic but a test-fit showed it'll be ok for a kit of this vintage. I'm glad I got the resin seats - even just painted up (no PE) they're going to be way better than what's in the kit. I do like the pilots, although they are too small. The rear seater has a mapboard in his lap. Nice touch! This is the progress I have made so far. There's almost nothing you can see in the cockpit especially those control panels which will be hidden once it's sealed up. There are no instrument panels and no control sticks either. I will tidy up that untidy paint though. Still a good long way to go!

Ships ahoy! 😃⚓

Too good to pass on this. Please sign me up. May the force be with us.

Little bits tidied, painted and gloss varnished. Model varnished too. She will sit now until next week while I get on with clearing the F-84F and Invader off the shelf . Next week I will get the weathering done and final assembly (I hope!). It all depends on work stuff, home and seeing the latest grandchild! Martin

Actually apart from the one at Gisborne there are two more TBF-1's preserved here in New Zealand One is NZ2504 (TBF-1) with the RNZAF Museum Collection at Wigram (RNZAF Official Air Force Museum of New Zealand - Used with permissions) The other is NZ2527 (TBF-1c) at MOTAT here in Auckland Both NZ2504 and NZ2527 can still fold their wings Of Note NZ2505 at Gisborne is also a TBF-1 Regards Alan

I'm modifying the 1/35 Kittyhawk MH-60S into an Iraqi war vet. Most of the parts for a UH-60L are in this kit, just had to scratch build the nose and tail missile warning sensors and fill in and rescribe a boat-load of fuselage details. To make things more interesting, I also added raised rivets, using a combination of .03mm solder balls and Archer's wonderful rivet decals. Replaced the IP with the Eduards PE version since the kit one has large MFD's instead of the analog gages of the Lima. Used the Werner's Wings UH-60 detail kit for a bunch of interior details, Reedoak's amazing helmets and helmet bags and WW's floor armor panels, which were mandatory for deployed US Blackhawks. Also added dozens of scratchbuilt details to the interior. Inlet sand filters which will be added to my helo later in the build. Rivets, rivets and more rivets. Can't believe KH just opted to go with recessed "divots" for this kit. Just doesn't look right. Decals on (using the Werner's Wings UH-60 decal set). That's it for now....

Just love the Avenger. I've seen the CAF aircraft numerous times and always am awed when it goes from tucked in wings to full spread wings for flight. Just a joy to behold. I like the New Zealand version you have built. Thanks for sharing.

YF-23 Black Widow II | Testors | 1/72 Finished this on 3/15/2024. I've had this in the stash for ages. This kit dates back to the mid- to late-90's and features raised panel lines and so-so detail in the cockpit. I sanded off the panel lines and rescribed them, which is a rarity for me. I felt that the scribed panel lines would show off the anti radar features of the panels better than pencil would, since I felt the pencil wouldn't be visible on the dark gray. The decals were typical 90's Testors with that milky gunk on them that would turn brown after a couple of months. Luckily for me, Caracal decals had a new run of their YF-23 decals back in December and so I used those instead. The kit seat wasn't too detailed, so I ordered an Aires resin ejection seat. Other than that kit was out of box. Fit wasn't terrific since the parts were warped and there were some really large gaps in some of the seams. I got it whipped into shape though. WIP is here. Hope you like it! Comments, questions and constructive criticism always welcome.

I'm pleased to report that I can finally declare this one finished! The livery decals are from V1 Decals, and the cockpit windows and wing root landing lights are from Authentic Airliners Decals. The two VHF antenna blades are from CRM, while I scratch-built the red anti-collision light. I must say, it's quite difficult to photograph a mostly white object against a white background! But my coloured backgrounds aren't big enough to accommodate the low-down shots, unfortunately. The model has a lot of flaws, but I'm still really happy with the way it turned out. Now to finish its Welsh Models stable mate! Kev

This is my first Airfix kit build for 60+ years, I believe the last Airfix kit I purchased was priced at 2 shillings and sixpence that’s how long ago it was. I am returning to Aircraft Modelling after a long break and this kit was brought as an opportunity to see if the hobby was what I really wanted. The build was interesting a little challenging as my eyes are not as good as they once were but yes it now has me hooked. As you will see from the pictures this build leaves a lot to be improved and compared to many of the offerings seen on this forum is certainly not up to scratch but it is at least a start. It was brush painted using the paint that came with the kit. Despite thinning the paint and applying several layers the cruel lens of the digital camera reveals all is not well. My technique requires much improvement and I hope that will come as I build future kits and I will definitely be using better paint on future builds. Brush painting will be used as due to domestic circumstances an air brush is not on the future agenda. Any comments and advice much appreciated and thanks for taking the time to look.

Oh man, that was a nightmare! But I'm pleased to say that masking and painting the lower surface Coroguard panels is now done. It's far from perfect, but will certainly do as a shelf-sitter. Once I've dealt with a bit of overspray, it'll be on to the final stages of completion. Kev

And here's the promised update! Decalling done on Ed Force One: I've taken the photos against both a white and a charcoal background, since each offers a slightly different perspective on the model. The only decals left are a pair of stencils for the nose wheel doors, and a registration decal whose placement I can't determine: My best guess is that it's supposed to go under the outboard end of the starboard wing, but I can't find a single photo that confirms this, so will probably just leave it off. Just need to deal with all the wrinkling now! But very happy with the way this is turning out. Kev

Thanks. I use Revell's enamel thinner with the Colourcoats paint. When thinned enough, it dries pretty smooth and fast. I got most of the paint on, but obviously some corrections and touch ups are required. I have to say, these colours look pretty weird, but they are supposed to be correct.

And here we are, all covered in primer. When I bought this kit, I also bought this paint set from Colourcoats. I will start with the brown shade.

A quick update, as this build finally makes it to the painting stage! SMS Light Grey on the wings and tailplanes: The strong studio lights make it look basically white, but it should have enough contrast with the white on the fuselage when it goes down - which will happen after the silver bits! Kev

I focused on finishing another build for a while, but now I'm back to the G.1. The interior is complete, painted and installed into the fuselage. The top and bottom windows of the fuselage pod come separate, and they don't fit well into their spots. Some sanding and filing was required. Even then it was a bit of a puzzle to find out what was the front and rear of each window, and two were misnumbered in the instructions. In the end it sort of fits, although I do have some filling and sanding to do, mostly at the top rear of the pod. I do like the PE parts for the interior. Next up is the tail cone with the gun inside, and after that work moves on to the wings and under carriage.

Thanks guys, Good to see its approval. The front bit of the cockpit is more or less done. So now work continues on the bit behind it. Lots of fiddly parts and PE. One thing I just noticed is that the PE fret comes with seatbelts, but they aren't mentioned in the instructions. The seats do have slots for them though. I've also masked the inside of the fuselage windows. The kit comes with a nice fitting masking sheet for both the inside and outside. No instructions, though, so you have look carefully which ones to use. After glueing some PE parts in it, I will give that a coat of grey paint. So far this is an enjoyable build.