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Showing most liked content on 22/03/18 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Hi all. This is my first model in this year. Best regards. Michael.
  2. 5 points
    "combat" version of X-29. Fixed fast. without fillings ,-)
  3. 4 points
    1/48 Kitty Hawk Su-17m3R 'Blue 82' Azerbaijani AF, Kyurdamir AB, 2009. Painted exclusively with AKAN lacquers and acrylics. Decals are from our own Linden Hill Decals set LHD 48021.
  4. 4 points
    Hooray!!! My IP address has finally been removed from the bad boys list and I can access the site from home again. It seems so long since I was here that I've forgotten where I was. I do remember something about an instrument panel that was getting a bit exciting, so without further ado - here's the tail again! I wasn't happy with the Brass-Sheet-Stuck-On-Top-Of-Plastic look for the tail so I pulled the brasswork off again and with one o' them new fandangled chisels that everyone is talking about, I chiseled a small recess to allow the brass to sit into the plastic instead of on top of it. Looking much better. There's still a fair bit or rework to be done around this area to make it all hunky dory but I'm happy it's way better than before. I also took the opportunity to open out the holes in the mesh on top of the tail. If you look at photo 1 of this post you will see that I had enlarged the holes rear of the gearbox access hole. The ones in front are as they come with the kit - a bot on the small side according to the reference photo's I have. All opened out here - as close to having them all of equal diameters as I can get. The triangular mesh panels are next on the list for the tail, but a quick dry fit confirmed my suspicions that once again, I am going to have to gouge a channel around the area for the mesh to sit into the plastic. Ho hum... Oh right... instrument panel wasn't it? The panel of assorted instruments. Well, here it is stuck to a piece of plastic. Happy now? There was a cunning plan stirring away behind my seemingly madcap idea of sticking an instrument panel to a piece of plastic. For a start I needed something to hold the panel while I airbrushed it, an added bonus with bells on was that the primer would also mark exactly where the instruments were positioned, and even bonusier with bigger bells... I could use the plastic as a support panel for the instrument panel when I was finished with it. Here we are, primed, then painted dark grey, followed up with various shades of black - well 2 shades of black to be exact, and another shade of grey - just the one mind you. We don't want too many shades of grey around here. I have been experiencing new levels of sharp stick in the eye pain on this project. It took me pretty much all evening to paint the buttons etc and it's still not as neat as is routinely achieved by some folks around here. It's all a bit mundane in it's rather drab hues. But if you turn it sideways for some reason it appears more interesting. This shot confirms that spending the extra time for the knobs and dials and thingies was worth the effort. The big question is - did the cunning plan work? Well, I managed to remove the I without damaging either it or the plastic. I now have a nice clear outline of the IP and all the gauge positions have been marked - easy peasy huh ? A few minutes later we had the support panel for the brass all shaped and ready to go. It even fitted! - well at least as good as the kit panel which didn't really fit the cowling all that well. Oops... almost forgot - while I was etching the IP I also made a couple of 'boxes' - These were folded and soldered up When finished (if I haven't lost them in a couple of days) they will nest directly below the IP. Being an ex-rigger, I have no idea what these are for. In fact, even when I was a rigger, I still had no idea what they were for. I can only assume they were the remote control units for the 8 track cassette player in back so they could keep blasting out the Beach Boys greatest hits while flying over the colonies. Big knob for volume, and a small one for tone and one for balance I guess Next up was yet more brass work - this time cutting a piece of scrap brass to about 4mm wide, then folding it over a piece of wire. I can assure you that this is not the best use of an afternoon. Once folded over, the brass strip was scored with a blade and the 'U' piece snapped of. That was then held in a pair of pliers and the bottom edges filed down - another PITA job. I kep the rod in place to prevent the U shape collapsing in the pliers. An unexpected bonus of this operation was that the filing left a nice burr along the bottom edges - providing a larger surface area for gluing. For gluing on what I hear you ask.... well, hold on - I'm getting there. At this point, the brass rod was removed and a piece of styrene rod was inserted in it's place. and then they were stuck on top of the coaming panel. Warning lights of some description I believe. There's actually another two on the port side too, but I forgot to take a photo when I stuck them on. Use your imagination! But what about the instrument panel I hear you lot asking again. Okay then.... here's where I'm at. I started sticking the transfers on this evening. Thankfully, my plan worked quite well and the primer 'dots' were very useful in positioning the various gauges and wotnots. I used a mixture of kit transfers and Airscale gauge transfers. The Airscale transfers were good, but were for plankwinged thingies so didn't have all the gauges I needed, and in some cases didn't have enough of the type of gauge needed. The kit transfers for the IP were not all that bad to be honest. Of course, neither of the 'gauges' were the same size as the primer dots - I had used the 4+ book as my reference and traced their HC2 IP in CAD. Both the kit and Airscale transfers were just a tad larger than my primer dots, so once I had applied the transfer, I positioned it as carefully as I could - then it was a quick overlay of my home made IP to make sure I could see the gauge and that it was centered to the opening in the panel. Repeat that process for every single gauge on the panel, sometimes several times... sharp stick in the eye again. I got this far this evening before I had to give up. Not perfect, but close enough for me. If I had continued this evening I would have made a hash of those remaining transfers. ***Edit*** Why does this darn thing post when I paste a photo? It took me completely by surprise it did. So what does it look like so far? Well.... Pretty decent for a homemade job I think. Another hour or so should see all the gauges in place
  5. 3 points
    This time is the little Japanese tank. It is very interesting construction as due to huge amount of islands Japanese Army wanted to have a tank which can easily float between them. Do not think it have any chance against the Sherman, but as the infantry support must be a great idea.
  6. 3 points
    Hello all, Here is my entry for this GB - Hasegawa's 1/48 E/A-18G built as an F/A-18F, of VFA-213 'Black Lions' during their 2017 cruise in support of Operation 'Inherent Resolve.' AJ 204, BuNo 166639 dropped 110 bombs during the cruise and was one of the jets seen with the huge payload of 10x GBU-32 JDAMs. So of course I have to load my model with that payload! I'm using the EA-18G boxing as it comes with the late style ECS pipes already incorporated to the fuselage, which is much better than having to add aftermarket examples. Kit: Aftermarket: I'll be using an Aires cockpit, Pavla seats, GBU-32s and associated racks from Attack Squadron, Furball decals and Xmold seamless intakes (though I may just opt for Steal Beach intake covers). Decals: The decals by Furball are outstanding. The sheet also includes the VFA-87 jet that shot down a Syrian Su-22 in June 2017. I may enter this one to the GB at a later date... The jet itself: Photos courtesy of Navy.mil. Been wanting to do this scheme since I first seen the pictures of the 10 JDAMs! Dave
  7. 2 points
    Built for a RAF 100th anniversary group build. revel kit, from box, Xtradecal markings. Handpainted using Humbrol. Kit is fantastic, no filler, fell together in no time.
  8. 2 points
    Shamed by @opus999 I decided that I would take my first tentative steps back into my long term projects by getting this build started again. I began by adding a connection point for all the hoses that come off the hydraulic bay door. This went quite well and I then pressed on by making the attachment point for the jacks that operate the main undercarriage doors, I am having these open to show the piping inside. The doors in the pictures look a bit wonky as they are only held in place by White Tack but do actually line up fine in real life. I then stopped and thought what the black marks on the fuselage were for and then remembered that they marked imperfections that need further attention so it was out with the Mr Dissolved Gloop. I have also masked off the RAM turbine bay ready for some primer as I don't think it will be all that long before we can start lobbing some paint at the internals of the build. A bit more work on the ejection seats and some wiring looms and I think we are good to go. Thanks for looking Martian
  9. 2 points
    Thanks for the comments and welcome aboard . Nearly a week without an update as work has rather got in the way recently. I have started the painting, first putting a pre-shade on the underside. My airbrush was not behaving itself at all whist I did this. It was spluttering a lot, but like a fool I carried on and it ended up looking a bit of a mess. Don't zoom in too closely - it's a horror show. I stripped it down afterwards, but it was quite clean and I couldn't see anything wrong. After putting everything back together it sprayed fine, so who knows what was up with it. Managed to overlay it with enough Sky Type S to hide the splatter.
  10. 2 points
    Canadair F4 Sabre 71 Squadron Royal Air Force Germany Wildenrath 1955 Trying to get back into the modelling groove after a very quiet couple of years. So here is my quick build of Academy's F-86 sabre, representing a Canadair F4. Built OOB with the exception of Eduard Brassin wheels and painted with Mr Paint and Gunze Aqueous Colour. Decals are from an Eagle Strike set. Regards Howard
  11. 2 points
    M31 TRV 'Georgia on my Mind' Operation Husky Takom /1/35 Build here Andy
  12. 2 points
    I decided to remain in ignorance, I just got a feeling you know Anyway, as well as Buccynearing there's been progress here But only just I have now prepared the Palouste for dipping in the vat of latex See, behold a handle to hold it with during the dip This will be trimmed to size later to finish the unit before surgery happens Night all
  13. 2 points
    Noah on the ark says to his wife. "I"m really bored, I"m going to do a bit of fishing" and wanders off.He"s back half an hour later. "I"m still bored"His wife say"s "I thought you were going to do a bit of fishing, why stop after half an hour?"He says "Well I only had two worms"
  14. 2 points
    Olivier, As mentioned earlier, here are some photos of -1 dorsal fin fillets on a couple of modern restorations today. These were produced by the Australian Commonwealth Aircraft Corporation to the North American Aviation drawings. Again, the only difference is that these are riveted, where as the original NAA-produced -1 dorsal fin fillets were spot welded (used on P-51D-5-NA's (from the factory and via kits), P-51D-5-NT's, P-51D-10-NA's, early P-51K-1-NT's and all but the last few P-51D-15-NA's). Note how the edge of the spine remains the same from the forward-most tip all the way until reaching the vertical panel line joint, and from there the fillet spreads out to blend into the vertical tail fin. Here is a view from the bottom of the fillet (same for all versions):
  15. 2 points
    I'm going to wrap this one up now. I've been toying with it over the last few days. but in the end the only extra bits I've added are a couple more tarps and, of course, the bucket. I had vague plans to add some other tools and odds and ends, but I think it'd just end up looking cluttered, so I'm going to leave it at this. I was originally intending to give the bucket an enamelled finish, but in the end I went with a galvanised look Bob's had his head removed, and repositioned looking forward. The pose looked a little more interesting that way. You can also see one of the additional tarps around the base of the crane jib. I was originally intending to place it folded over the top of the jib, behind the spare sprockets and under the cable, as I'd seen a photo of an M31 with a tarp stowed there. The gap was a bit too tight to get it in place without tearing the delicate tissue though, so I ended up draping it around the base So, with those changes, I'm going to call it done. Thanks to everyone who's followed along, and thanks for all the suggestions, comments and encouragement. It's been a great GB to take part in. Special thanks to @Sgt.Squarehead for inviting me onboard and for organising the whole thing. I'll get some finished shots up in the gallery later. Andy
  16. 2 points
    The bloke sitting at the bench ...
  17. 2 points
    JRS-1 Bu No 1063, VJ-1 Pearl Harbor, Feb 42. DSC_0238 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0239 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0233 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0234 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0235 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0236 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0237 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0240 by stuart wellard, on Flickr DSC_0241 by stuart wellard, on Flickr
  18. 2 points
    Now with the lighter green painted.
  19. 2 points
    This has been happening, over on the Buccaneer thread, I think it has more relevance in here You can probably see that it hasnt been too happy to be sihrsced but of course nothing tells sihrsc to b. off She do what she want to like any lady do And stuff happens This shows the lighter areas from the rule depth gauging which helps guide the file Looking at the unfilled bits you would think there was more filling needed than actually was But blimey, it's proper hard for the file card Oops I thought I took a better one than that but I didnt, the file needs unclogging every couple of minutes because the Milliput has not entirely set off This is ready for a polish, then into the latex vat for buck moulding Expecting a couple of workable bucks to reshape with open hatches of choice by the weekend
  20. 2 points
    Batteries Recharged - Dive, Dive, Dive... OK folks - after a bit of a run on the surface these old submarines would get a hull full of fresh air and a bank of batteries full of electricity - all set for the next big dive. That's where I'm at now - all ready to plunge in again. This is due to three things: I've made a decision to use the WASMEx as a 'hell or high-water' deadline - essentially just a target to hit to get this thing done. If need be, I'm going to take annual leave to hit this mark. The ocean base has come back from the picture framers and now I can really see what this thing's going to look like finished - not much guesswork involved any more. Most importantly - all of the encouragement and positive energy streaming into the project from you lot on Britmodeller. I really do owe you all a vote of thanks. I am pretty happy with the work the framer has done and was going to do a big 'reveal' at the end in the RFI section but since you have all been so supportive I think I can spare a couple of sneak previews... I'm happy with this. I hope you like it too, because this is basically what she's going to look like when done. Hendie: As for your question regarding the conning tower. I've done a bit of light research and it seems that indeed steering a ship can be to 'conn' a ship. Apparently this is originally derived from French and shares the same root as the word 'conduct' (as in ‘to conduct or direct an orchestra’ or ‘to conduct a complex operation’). So in a sense the 'conning tower' can be thought of as a 'conducting tower' - a location from which the vessel’s operation is 'conducted'. Nice huh... As the one time 'Reconcilor' I wonder if there's a link there too? Once again, thanks to everyone for showing interest and providing encouragement when needed. Clear the decks - Seal the hatches - Flood the tanks - we are going in for the final run... By the way - I have decided what the next project is going to be but am going to sit on that info for a few days longer - there's a reason for the delay, watch this space. Steve
  21. 2 points
    Morning all,just a Hunter update,more decal's added wheel's on and tank's painted and fitted,just started painting the canopy,the yellow L for the tail broke up so I'll have to make them up or leave off.
  22. 1 point
    Hi folks, I'm back to do a little project that I've been wanting to do ever since I built the Hasegawa F-35A Lightning; namely to build the long hoped for Hasegawa "B" version!. They have come rhough, and I've gotten my grubby mitts on one. I personally feel that the Hasegawa is hands-down the best 1/72 F-35 out there, first the "A", now including the "B" version. (You might correctly surmise that I'm waiting breathlessly for their "C" version, as well!) Some folks didn't like the Hasegawa F-35A, simply because it had no open weapons bays/missles. Folks -- it's a STEALTH aircraft. All that fluff hanging out in the wind is not the best thing ever, as the radar image would not be very stealthy. Well, their "B" version is the same -- no weapons and no bays. The reason that I feel that Hasegawa is the best model of this aircraft is simply that it's pretty much dead-on accurate, as well as having decals provided for the Ram panels, versus the "sculptured terraces" that everyone else uses for RAM panels, with or without decals. But enough editorializing. I got my kit after a few months waiting for my pre-order to be shipped, from Hobby Search in Japan. The kit looks like this. This it appears to have all the parts needed to open or droop to depict landing or takeoff configurations, as well as the option for in flight mode, for which a very nice stand is also included. This build will start kind of slowly, as I am just completing a couple of home remodeling projects, and have company coming at the first of the month, and the garden beckons, etc. But I will try to move along as much as I can, for the near future. See you later, Ed
  23. 1 point
    It looks awesome Steve. Great work.
  24. 1 point
    Good evening For this Gb I started this week end the Heller Sherman M4A2 called Brives La Gaillardes of 12e Regiment de Cuirassiers 2e Division Blndée also known as "Division Leclerc" The box art The sprues Building instructions The decals sheet and tracks I am going to build the Sherman called Brives La Gaillarde I started by painting some parts I also started to work on the turret and hull Patrice
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Hi everyone, My first post here and I just wanted to post my favourite build from last year (and it took pretty much all of last year to do!). This is the 1/144 Bandai Millennium Falcon that I have modified to be (my favourite) version, the one from Empire Strikes Back. Mostly an out of the box build, it uses a lot of 3D printed parts (the radar dish, cockpit interior and exterior, maintenance pits, sidewalls on the mandibles), some photoetch (the rear circular grills) and is lit (although you can't really see this in the photos). The engines have a blue flickering glow, the headlights are SMDs, there is an interior light for the upper gun well (the lower one is where the support pole is) and the cockpit rear wall is a mix of fibre optic and back lighting. I have some videos of this knocking around online (on Instagram mainly). Painted with DOA paints (hand brush) as well as Citadel ones and various washes, etc until I was happy with it. Feel free to ask any questions.
  27. 1 point
    What a great build of a wonderful and graceful looking aircraft. Fantastic work and a cracking idea for the base. All the best Chris
  28. 1 point
    Wheels, do not, I say do not jump the gun my friend This is not a Palouste model which will of course have wheels and stuff This is a casting buck from which WILL appear Paloustes that will need wheels and their backs watching
  29. 1 point
    This is my interpretation of the venerable Matchbox Hawker Fury Mk.1 courtesy of the Revell reboxing in the wonderfully bright, eye-catching livery of No.43 Squadron based at RAF Tangmere 1932. I originally intended this to be a gentle excursion and break from my Dambuster build as a contribution to the Made in Great Britain GB. Sadly, and shamefully, I ran out of time and failed to make the finish, but reincarnated it in the WIP section. Build thread is here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235027219-revell-matchbox-hawker-fury-mki-172/& I believe it is Matchbox’s first kit way way back circa 1972: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/147812-matchbox-pk-1-hawker-fury The kit itself is a lovely little kit which goes together very well. Even after all these years, apart from some flash here and there, the tooling holds up quite well. It is also quite accurate with the exception of the tailfin which is a little undersize, and the undercarriage which is a tad high because it is moulded in the inflight position. That said these really are subtle nuances which are barely noticeable. Of course it has raised panel lines, the rivets are a bit OTT, as is the wing ribbing. The undercarriage is a little clumsy and toy-townish looking, but after all it is a kit from 1972. There aint much else on offer in 1/72, save the old Airfix kit and the Amodel Mk.1/2. I understand there is an MPM Production future kit in the pipeline. You’re not exactly spoilt for choice in respect of aftermarket – you can get an IP panel and some undercarriage conversions for the Spanish version, although there are plenty of decals for those tasty schemes to choose from. As for my build, well as I said above it started as a gentle OOB build, but I started adding details and ended up getting carried away, with the result that it was a proper kit bash in the end with quite a bit of scratch added and parts replaced. I sanded back the raised panel lines and re-scribed new ones. I pretty much rebuilt the entire cockpit interior, scratch building a new seat, cockpit frame, IP, gun mount, joystick, harness from take-away container foil, and other bits and bobs. The pit is pretty much Spartan as you can imagine with an early 70’s kit. You can’t see an awful lot of it, but as is the usual parlance “I know it’s there”. I trod on the windscreen and bust it so had no choice to make a new one from acetate with frames made from take-away foil. The guns were moulded on, so I cut and sanded them away and scratch built replacements from Albion Alloys tubing. Ditto the gunsight which was a bit oversize and clunky. I scratch built cross hairs and the pilot bead – quite fiddly but nice little touches I feel. I sanded back and cut out the exhausts which were moulded on. I replaced these with small sections of brass tubing, slightly squashed to replicate the oval shape. These were finished off in Humbrol Metalcote gunmetal. I left the rivets on the engine housing as I liked the effect, albeit they are a tad over scale. This was then covered in Bare Metal Foil to replicate the polished aluminium effect. The rest was finished off in Humbrol polished aluminium metalcote and HU 24 trainer yellow. The prop and wheels were finished in Tamiya NATO Black to give an off black effect. The wing ribbing was sanded back to give a more subtle effect, and I added the little actuators and counter weights. I used a little of the undercarriage but largely replaced it from flattened tube. Ditto the tail struts. I modified the wheels, spinner, tail, scratched a new tailskid and modified the radiator with little bits of mesh and a scratch built an oil cooler. The latter can barely be seen but “I know it’s there”. Made a pitot and venturi. The rigging is invisible thread. Phew! Anyroad it’s a great kit and an enjoyable build. You can build it straight OOB on a rainy Saturday afternoon like we did as kids, or go nuts like I did. Either road you’ll have fun. Thanks for looking.
  30. 1 point
    Strasvoicha, u kaku vas dilla?I Okay, I know this is not Cyrillic but the best I can do with an English keyboard. Welcome aboard.
  31. 1 point
    Hi again, Number 3 in the BoB collection - Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk.1 Again a super little kit, panel lines overly deep but good fit and detail. Supplemented by the Eduard PE set. Paints are MRP and Xtradecal decals. Couple of glaring mistakes but I won't highlight them (I'm sure someone will!) Looks nice in the flesh, but hasn't photographed as well as the other 2 for some reason... It is hard in this scale tempted for a switch to 1/48... Anyway, still waiting for my perfect model... Cheers, Guy
  32. 1 point
    Ladies cosmetic blusher brush. Ultra soft and great for dusting models and no damage if careful
  33. 1 point
    Hey Rich, Please can you count me in for this one - I'd like to enter with this: I've never built a Japanese aircraft to date so I thought this would be a perfect chance to kill two birds with one stone for this build. Thanks Kris
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Looking forward to seeing how the base is done... Am I right in thinking that the sand on Iwo Jima was (is?) black?
  36. 1 point
    The nom de guerre for this Phantom lies in its configuration. As it began life on the production line as an F-4D but was finished as the prototype F-4E. From the rear cockpit bulkhead aft it was essentially an F-4D, from that bulkhead forward it was an F-4E. In the 6512th Test Squadron, we maintained a unique flight manual denoting the differences and peculiarities of this airframe. Of course, the maintainers had unique manuals to keep this bird in shape. November 1981, shortly after returning to Edwards from Programmed Depot Maintenance at Ogden Air Logistics Center. She always went to the depot with a shark mouth on her, but always returned without one. Here she is in December 1983. Also has the short gun muzzle fairing replaced with a later long/vented fairing. On the way to the Utah Test and Training Range in April 1984 carrying an instrumented BDU-33 shape. A lucky shot as we barrel-rolled over her to check left side. On the Edwards ramp, May 1985. January 1989, returned from Ogden again and back to a short muzzle fairing. On her way for another test support mission January 1990. The pattern to the range skirts the Edwards housing area, seen beneath her. The didn't get her shark mouth again this time before being retired in 1992. The name in block letters on the gun fairing. October 1991, her last open day display. Thanks for looking, Sven
  37. 1 point
    I'm with Andy.....By chance or by design, that looks superb! The mud streaks on the glacis are my favourite.....It looks like the driver forgot to scrape his boots before clambering aboard.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    It does look a bit evocative Massimo but the plastic is a sod to cut if there is any converting going on I can't wait to get started on my beigey-tan Matchbox S2 which is staying an S2, the only things I will change are the undercart And the transfers, yeehaw Massimo you are really working wonders with it I'm amazed each time I look in Stuporgoo as filler, never seems to work for me (Note to self: Must try harder)
  40. 1 point
    I didn’t intend to participate in a GB this year as I have so many unfinished models to finish But why not giving it another go and I hopefully manage to complete this kit in the time-frame of this GB. I don’t know why, but I do like the look of the Hawker Sea Hawk, so I have a go in building the Trumpeter kit in 1/48. And as I like the special markings used during the Suez crisis, I am building an FGA.6 from 810 Squadron flying from HMS Albion during December 1956. The aircraft is XE335. I found two pictures of this particular aircraft. On the first picture all looks like it should be. But the second picture, which shows XE335 from the other side, transiting through Istres in France in November 1956, has the number 4 for some reasons much wider! And here is the kit. As I would like to add some detail to the kit, I spent a bit of time researching the type and the kit - an activity I enjoy as much as building the kit . I read lots of reviews and build reports. But as this is an older kit, there are not too many online reviews on the WEB and build reports aren't plentyfull either. Some reviewer compare the kit in quality to Tamiya which I don’t agree with as the detail is a bit soft and not as refined as on a Tamiya kit. Fortunately the Sea Hawk is one of the better kits Trumpeter managed to make as the outline is to scale and captures the lines of the aircraft well. But unfortunately not the same can be said when it comes to details, so there is still ample of scope to improve. Some areas which I feel can do with corrections are: - The gun openings. They slant upwards and just look wrong. - The cockpit air intakes. - The Engine air intakes. The dividing plates aren’t strait. - The front wheel undercarriage cover is positioned too far back. - The air brakes. Even when closed they can be enhanced. In addition, I will replace the cockpit and wheel bays with Aires resin parts. Here is some of the information I found on the web: Reviews: Cybermodeler Modeling Madness - some great building tips IPMS Germany - in German Build Reports: ARC Forum Miniature-Arcadia Britmodeller Walkarounds: Cybermodeler - FB.5 at Duxford ScaleModels.RU - FB.5 at Duxford ScaleModels.RU - FB.5 at Gatwick ScaleModels.RU - FB.3 at Newark Net-Maquettes - Mk.50 at Den Helder IPMS Nederland - Mk.50 at Den Helder Prime Portal - FB.5 Prime Portal - FGA.6 Thunder & Lighning - Various Britmodeller - Various Certainly no shortage on Walkaround information, but If you know any other links, please share them here. Cheers, Peter
  41. 1 point
    As per the post prior though, the Hawk's command eject works the other way around. As designed, the experienced instructor sits in the back and can bang out the inexperienced student sitting in the front. The "Student" in the front seat can't bang out the "instructor" in the back. The issue, if there is one, is that the commander sits in the 'wrong' seat in the Red Arrows. When a typical Hawk student is flying solo and is thus the commander, this isn't an issue because he ejects himself anyway. To work such that the Red Arrows command seat could eject both would have required the system to be reversed. I have not seen the system, so cannot comment on how easy or difficult it would be to implement such a change.
  42. 1 point
    Here is one with a mix of AIM-9 and Zuni on the Y rack: Jari
  43. 1 point
    I have been working on the new Airfix P51 D for our clubs “Airfix Cup” to be held at the NSW Scale Model Show on the last weekend in April. This is a quick overview of the build as I am fairly advanced on the build. AM consists of Ultracast seat, Eduard wheels and HS standard cuffed prop. Paints are MM or Colourcoats enamels, AKI Extreme Metals and varnishes: As this was my first NMF scheme, I primed the build with AKI black base. I then obtained a set of homemade masks from. A mate of mine with a silhouette cutter and placed these prior to the AKI 479 Aluminium: The results are not too bad: The sub assemblies are also being done: This is the current state of play as I am away for 10 days: Regards,
  44. 1 point
    Two knackered dogs and a lot of faffing around later: The basic build's done, if I can get the details and stowage on pronto I might just make deadline, but if they keep fighting me or if I have any more real world dramas..... Oh FFS.....Just realised I forgot to drill out the smoke-mortars and the gunner's sights.....Hopefully I can prize the mantlets off the turrets without destroying anything! To add to my woes with Buddy's** front leg/shouder, Shale, my Lurcher bitch, has torn one of her dew-claws three-quarters of the way out at the root.....Third time she's done it, off to the vets again tomorrow. ** He's my dog now BTW, two kids and a dim but lovely dog was more than my sister could manage, apparently.
  45. 1 point
    Don't you worry, started to assemble the big parts. I found a good paint scheme, one that will raise eyebrows of course... Nonetheless an authentic one, but Shagbat will go on slowly for the while. Sincerely. CC
  46. 1 point
    He means 'back in the days before I became a superb development engineer' I hope to see it, one day finished to the Crisp Ex-FAAWAFU revised standards we've become accustomed to I hope to see it... ☺
  47. 1 point
    56 Squadron Jeff, never 56th
  48. 1 point
    Surely they could sell at least a 1000 injected Hastings? I would definitely be up for a pair in injection molded, but can't entertain a whole resin kit.
  49. 1 point
    Not much modelling time lately Work work only (the lady in the house calls modelling ”work” as well, but alas - if only I would get payed for that) Very little progress, I’ve been sanding and priming less-than perfect joints. Here is at least an image of the two 5-NA tails, for comparison. Left the Tamiya (will be made to famously photographed 44-13926) and right the Airfix Sallee. The former had received a dorsal fin fillet by the time I’m going to represent it - I modified the kit fin a bit to represent the appropriate field mod version instead of the factory installed.
  50. 1 point
    Good evening During the last days I made some progresses I placed the suspensions and closed the hull Patrice