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Showing most liked content on 15/12/17 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hello, I propose all my projects made of the brand Wingnut wings since the first, the SE-5, at the last Salmson. SE.5a "Hisso" Roland D.VIa Hannover CL.II Pfalz D.XII Pfalz D.IIIa Sopwith Snipe Late Sopwith Triplane Albatros B.II Early Fokker D.VII (ALB) Hansa-Bradenburg W.12 Early AMC DH.2 Bristol F.2b Fighter (post war) Bristol F.2b ....not finished Roland C.II Albatros D.Va (OAW) Roland D.VIb And the last Salmson 2-A2 Best Regards Michel
  2. 8 points
    Good day, jentlemen. Let me present my next model.
  3. 7 points
    A decent model from Hobby Boss with some issues. I used various shades of alclad, decals are home made. Yugoslav air force, early fifties.
  4. 6 points
    This is the venerable SBD by Airfix and was build out of the box, except for the dive brakes which were drilled out with a pin vise. Decals from the Hasegawa SBD for a North Africa version. It is a nice simple model. New clear parts will greatly improve the look of the model.
  5. 6 points
    At long last. After 30+ years of modeling, and about half a dozen failed attempts, I have finally successfully built a biplane model! This is Eduard's Nieuport 17 in 1/48 scale. It was built straight out of the box. Paints used were Tamiya flat aluminum, various Vallejo for the details, and some nameless artist oils on the wood bits. Markings are for the American Volunteer squadron (Escadrille Lafayette) in French service. This aircraft was flown by Edward Hinkle in the spring of 1917. Unbelievablethat it was 100 years ago! The Eduard decals performed flawlessly. I didn't use any softeners. The clear wing cellules were made using Micro Crystal Clear PVA. Rigging is Ezline. Blue! See below. There are plenty of rookie mistakes on here. I admit to having rushed to finish this. I just wanted to finally have a biplane in the collection, and having fun trumped getting things perfect. I didn't add any turnbuckles, which I guess is kind of a no-no now, but they looked oversized when I tried to do them. I thought .3 mm tube would work, but it looked like the plane was wearing cow bells. I'm also not sure about the blue rigging lines. I got that by reading something related to the WNW salmson, where they said the French lines were blue. That lot seem to know what they're doing, so why not? Here are some admittedly mediocre pictures.
  6. 6 points
    This is an older build but I don't think I've posted these photos before. I did re-scribe the model and added a few bits from the Airfix B-26. MicroScale decals.
  7. 5 points
    So, gentlemen, it seems to me, that KP/AZ offices will be closed until January 2nd 2018. Week full of various parties with friends (modelers and "normal people" :-) ) is waiting. Let me post my the last post right now.... I can promise to you, that next year "Telford project" will not be what if but real plane. Four candidates are in the draft. All of them very interesting ones. What I have heard here? Venom? Hm, it is a really nice plane. I do not know why, but we have a lot of references on the table now.... We will publish our plans for 2018 in January, few days before Nuremberg Toy Fair, so stay tuned. Let me express my "Thank you" to all of you for your support, nice chat here and help in many cases. It is my personal pleasure to talk with you. I wish you Merry Christmas and Blue Skies in 2018 year. See you next year here. Jan
  8. 4 points
    This kit is Tamiya at it's best ....simple, straight forward and the fit is excellent. Thanks for looking Dick
  9. 4 points
    2017 has been a slow year on the modelling front. I have been pretty busy elsewhere which has drastically reduced my bench time. Hopefully you will appreciate what I have managed to finish. Please leave any comments you have and thanks for looking! Airfix 1/48 EE Lightning F6 1/48 Airfix Sea Vixen FAW.2 1/35 Tamiya Marder 1A2 1/72 Airfix Jet Provost T.3
  10. 4 points
    An older build of the very nice Dragon M4A1 Sherman built out of the box with just a few add ons. Getting the tiny photo-etch parts was the hardest part of building this kit. I do need to touch up some of the tracks where the paint was worn off. The model was weathered with old school pastels.
  11. 4 points
    Latest F-20 in my stable is the Freedom Models F-20C. This excellent kit comes with an assortment of weapons, and a refueling probe. I've done it as a GR.3, during Operation Desert Storm. 112 Sqn, being one of the first squadrons deployed, quickly applied sharks mouths to their aircraft, as their predecessors had done to their P-40s in the desert. Armed with various munitions, in this case the American CBU-87 cluster bomb, they were assigned to destroy Iraqi vehicles and emplacements. For self defence, flare dispensers were fitted under the rear of the fuselage, and a flare pod and ECM pod fitted to the outer pylons. Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr Tigershark GR.3 Gulf War. by Paul Carter, on Flickr
  12. 4 points
    It's a great little kit that is mind blowingly easy to build. Thanks for looking. Dick
  13. 4 points
    Had a bit of fun with this one and tried to improve my display skills. Comments would be appreciated. Thanks for looking Dick
  14. 4 points
    Hello, This is my first post to Britmodeller so it's just a bit of a test. This is my recently completed Stug from Bronco. Here's hoping the picture works. Thank you for looking. I hope to post more soon. All the best, Tim
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    and, here's another take on decals, using some PVA glue to bed them down http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1511881812/last-1512025021/(View+All+Messages+In+This+Thread Note comments regarding 'gloss' vs 'smooth' and points on different methods, and reasons for silvering. @Neil.C as you can see you have various opinions, and reasons, some contradictory. As someone so, that's 1977.... OK, there have been a lot of changes, one of the best is places like this, which makes a usually solitary hobby into a group participation if you want (have a read of some of the work in progress threads for example, try ones with lots of posts to see what I mean, ) If you like post a build up and ask for some constructive feedback, the ethos here is a postive, friendly, helpful, you'd get comments on the good parts, and ideas and suggestion for areas that have not come out as well. Oh, and also macro lenses are unforgiving .... In the decals case, look through some ideas, see what other builders have found with the decals (eg contrast Smithys experience with Tamiya and Gary C suggestions) and try a spare one on scrap to test. And, they may just be bit knackered from storage. Oh, and Academy decals are reputed to be crap whatever you do with them. (some recent kits I think now have Cartograf decals which are decent) The other thing is now it's easy to research, but as with anything on the net, it's not just what's being said, but who is saying it. Confused? Ask here, but it's always worth saying what you have found and add in the links (like above) Good questions tend to get good answers, showing you have had a look and are confused really helps, and there are plenty of 'lurkers' who may not post or even be members but could find the answers of use. And, try and see if there is a model club near to you (or ask here) as thats another great way to learn, and meet some likeminded folk. It struck me recently this is one of the few places that people my knowledge in this area of interest rather than tedious.... HTH cheers T
  17. 3 points
    Here is the second in my line of Latin T-birds. I still have two Platz T-33s in the pile! As you can see she is depicted as “3304” of the Fuerza Aerea Dominicana (Dominican Air Force), and was one of four machines acquired in 1956 and operated briefly (until 1958) by that force. The US Mission withdrew them in 1958 and they were supplied to Brasil. The Dominicans went through the same again in 1967 when they acquired two ex-USAF machines and those, too, were withdrawn by the US for similar reasons. With the FAD during the time of my model they were operated by the Escuadron Ramfis from Trujillo Air Base. At the time the force operated a wide variety of types, such as ex-Swedish Mustangs and Vampires, Thunderbolts, Mosquitoes, Invaders and many others. They were generally painted in bright colours but sadly this didn’t extend to the T-33 fleet. Like my earlier Uruguayan build, this is the excellent Platz kit. My model is based on the following image: What did I do/use? Platz T-33 1/72 Kit built out of the box Painted with Humbrol Enamels – 27001 Metalcote Aluminium overall, 33 Black wing tank halves, 153 Insignia red/189 Insignia blue/34 White for the tail flag, 60 Scarlet for the nose, 226 Interior green, 147 Grey and a few sundry others. Finished with Humbrol Glosscote and Mattcote. Nose guns from half-round Plastruct rod Wing pylons from plastic card Decals were a mix of: 1) wing and fuselage roundels from a Colorado P-47D sheet 2) Ramfis unit badge from a Hobbycraft P-51B kit 3) home printed serials 5) Spanish language stencils from a Microscale Latin T-33 sheet. 5) wing way decals and red lining from the kit. Panel lined and dirtied up a little with Flory dirt and then a few swipes of Tamiya Weathering sticks here and there. I hope you like her. Martin
  18. 3 points
    Yet another bit of armour. Hope you like. Please feel free to comment. Thanks for looking Dick
  19. 3 points
    While the floor had a little time to harden up, I set my daughter on to finishing painting the Red Baron, painting his boots first, followed by his face. Her eyes are probably good enough to manage without magnification, but I gave her a magnifying glass to aid careful painting of his face without getting flesh tones on the rest of his leather clothing. I love watching her concentration doing small jobs like this. His seat went in next, and after the seat joint and floor were reinforced with a couple of drops of cyano, the Baron took the controls for the first time.
  20. 3 points
  21. 3 points
    Just a quick update as I'm aware of the lack of interest The glass hull now has a twin (solid) all part of the experiment Complete with bulwarks and stanchions Thanks for looking Kev
  22. 3 points
    Hi folk's I filled in where needed and I've primed her to see what's been missed as the various colours of the plastic dont help.Not a lot needed when I looked around it.
  23. 3 points
    I'm more than a little squeamish so reading your post made my rear end clench. When I was young and stupid, I very narrowly avoided an accident involving a capstan lathe, that would have cost me my left hand. So now I'm very aware what could happen, every time I use my circular saw, mitre saw, table saw and angle grinder; but that is nothing compared to the palpitations of when I have to use the chainsaw. A friend of my dad's cut the end of three fingers off using a jig saw, so I'm wary using that now as well. Every time I use a power tool these days, I do a brief mental health and safety assessment, which many would consider over the top, but the older I get, the more conscious I am that bodies are all to fragile and a split second error could alter the rest of my life. I hope you recover quickly and I enjoy your 'you' time over Christmas.
  24. 3 points
    Well, um, the bandstand is together and temporarily sitting in place. Boy, this shot really shows up how much tidying up I'm going to have to do on the whole boat!
  25. 3 points
    DSC_0012-16 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0006-28 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003-33 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0008-25 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0006-26 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0006_2-4 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003_2-7 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0002_2-8 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004-93 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003-90 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0011-35 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0006-67 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003-81 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0001-80 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0001_2-5 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0013-23 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0008-42 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004-60 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0007-39 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004-50 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004-29 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003-28 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0009-13 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0005-22 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0002-24 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0005-1 by jean Barby, sur Flickr
  26. 3 points
    Hello mates, here for something completely different! This Tsu-Chang AT-3 1:72 from Lo Model was the only kit from that kind i have ever seen and bought instantly about 1995, i think. I finished it 2000. I like asian trainers with dayglo tsu much, even with that heavy glass, no doubt !!! Cheers, Thomas
  27. 3 points
    This is the Fine Molds 1/48 X-wing kit painted up as Blue Leader from Rogue One.
  28. 3 points
    Oh great, now I have to add "being neutered by dog" to the list of things to worry about when going to sleep !! Agree those people leaving "Improvised Excrement Devices" dangling in trees are to be thoroughly reviled. Second only to the woman a few blocks over who lets her dog crap on people's front lawns and then doesn't pick up... And as to the cat thing - it's never in their own garden, is it ?!!!
  29. 3 points
    I got the canopy faired in with some collateral damage, still needs some polishing. I tried to make the rear windows from Testors clear cement but it looks like it is not drying clear anymore. So off to the shop to buy a new bottle, this one has lasted me coming on 20 years! Once I get the clear parts sorted it will be into the paint booth.
  30. 3 points
    Greetings Beautiful People. I have here another finished kit to show. This is the second T-62 kit from the fantastic line of T-62 offer by Trumpeter. This is actually a commission build for a dear little brother. Here in this link, you can see the first T-62 I did - http://modeller-innovation.blogspot.com/2014/01/trumpeter-135-t-62-era-mod-1972.html Some photos And my Gary Wintin Shot... LOL .. More informations and more photos and bigger ones can be found on my blog as usual - http://modeller-innovation.blogspot.com/2017/11/trumpeter-135-t-62-during-chechen.html Please do have a look and thank you so much in advance for any feedback you guys may have. C&C are welcomed. I may have lost some of my previous skills and I am slowing trying to get them back. Thank you for always supporting and for the kind words and various encouragements. Until the next launch
  31. 3 points
    Recently built to replace my first attempt of a 74 Sqn Hurricane when they were based in Iran circa 1942-3. This particular machine crashed on 30th January 1943 killing it`s pilot Bobby Waugh. Airfix 1/48 scale.
  32. 3 points
    You should have heard the whining a couple of years ago when the NZ Marmite factory was destroyed in the Christchurch earthquake. The locals nicknamed it "marmageddon"... There were nationwide shortages and our equivalent of evilbay was doing a roaring trade in overpriced contraband stockpiles of the stuff. Luckily there IS genuine UK marmite available here, so that the proper taste can be had. Personally I stick with Bovril. Much nicer. As for that "vegemite" poo. That seems to have been made from the wast products of the brewer, rather than the brewing proccess...
  33. 3 points
    Some progress on the second He.115 - painting on the sprues as per some of the Matchbox modelling tips and the Mini Paint Plan. I had a good browse of the Matchbox catalogues on the Matchbox website and they were really recommending the option of just doing that limited painting as an enhancement to the coloured parts. Inside cockpit areas plus deck plus seats done in H240 light grey (RLM 02 equivalent). Prop blades in H91 Black Green and spinners in matt black. Engines have black back wall with H53 gunmetal cylinders. Machine guns, bomb sight (in the bomb-aimer's hands) and ladders all in gunmetal. Ran some gunmetal round the inside of the front edge of the engine cowlings. Engine exhausts in gunmetal with black base (maybe should be the other way round). Crew in field grey, brown helmets and gauntlets and black boots. Added in faces in flesh and what looks like flotation aids in yellow (the mini paint plan just shows jackets with thick lapels!). Made up the multi-position display stand and now ready to cut off the parts from the sprues and commence building!!
  34. 3 points
    OK, so things are getting even more bonkers. @Beard & @Corsairfoxfouruncle are not the only people with multiple Spitfire builds.... except mine aren't Spits, as you already know; they're post-war (Griffon) Seafires. To recap for any new readers... FR46 (the original subject of this thread) is done, and I am slowly building a detailed FR47, with engine exposed, Aires cockpit, added camera bays and a dinky wee flight deck tractor. For some reason I have decided to expand operations to a third simultaneous Supermarine aircraft (with the Walrus) [in truth I have been tinkering with it for a few days]. Enter THE FANG. I am using the only game in town for the Seafang in 1/48 (as far as I know), namely the Trumpeter kit. It's bit basic in places, and I'd lay you money that the cockpit is completely made-up - but the fit is actually excellent. First up some pics before the fuselage was glued, to show what I have done with the cockpit. No after market or the like for the cockpit (I don't there is anything anyway, even if I wanted it) - just some Airscale dials and some painting to liven things up. Since these photos I have added some generic seat belts made out of wine foil, but otherwise the cockpit is as you see it [note to self; still need to glue in the stick!]. Then this afternoon I got onto a bit of a roll, and ended up here: You will note that I am using resin tail & rudder; these are the Barracudacast ones designed for the Airfix 46/47. I used them on my Mk46 and thought the separate control surfaces added a lot of life, and since the 46/47 & Seafang tail was the same, I'll be using it again here. That meant I had to saw off the Trumpy rudder, and I am having to do a bit of modelling at the root of the tail, but nothing too silly. Other than that, we're pure Trumpeter. This aircraft will have its wings folded, like the 47 but (obviously) unlike the 46; I have therefore done the requisite surgery - slightly tricky because the wing fold join is not a straight line... but safely complete. I have put the FR46 away in a safe place to avoid damaging it, but at some stage I will get it out again and photograph it alongside this beast. You will not be surprised to learn that I have the Revell (nee Special Hobby?) Seafire XV and the Airfix XVII in the stash... and I have assembled parts of Airfix PR.XIX and unused FR46 wings to form the basis of a Seafire 45 in due course. That will complete the Griffon Seafire set. One day I might even extend it yet further - Attacker in one direction and Merlin Seafires in the other... but not yet! What started out as a Mojo-restoring build has morphed into a serial Seafire frenzy, and I am having so much fun! More soon Crisp [Wibble]
  35. 3 points
    Good evening Yesterday I glued the upper and lower parts of the "cabin" the turret is not yet glued .. Patrice
  36. 2 points
    well a little introduction to explain the weird title: this is a bit of an experiment on different levels. First i've seen these kits made by RPM, very peculiar subjects, coming very cheap ( this one was around 6€ ), scale 1/35 also provided with interiors, was curious to see what you get at such a cheap price. 2nd, wanted to do a little bit of modding, 3th wanted to simulate an explosion damage, 4th wanted to paint a burnt tank. Well i've done all of the above on this kit wich was the perfect choice coming so cheap to tear it down without the pain of thinking about the wallet crying, if it comes out good, good, if i butcher it nothing much is lost. Originally this was a Polish tankette ( the kit doesn't provide any decals or paint scheme by the way ) but in this particular version the weapons are removed and the hull is converted to a generic tractor purpose. I had read about the polish TKS tankette that historically germans after invading poland captured and converted many of these little fellas and used them all trough the war for various purposes in almost all the theathers. So, since i'm also building a 1/35 normandy tiger, i decided to paint this model in Wermacht color scheme in order to use it as a decoration for the Tiger diorama display i'm planning to make. That is also the reason why this little fella is weathered but not "dusted", as it's something i'll do when i'll blend it in the diorama, possibly some urban scenario with some dust and rubbles all around it. I've decided to leave its right side in pristine conditions, in order to see how the kit would look like if built properly, and its left side representing the damage caused by an explosion ( possibly during a bombing ). Modifications i've made on the original kit are: - opened the back doors and removed the front door ( they are originally one piece with the top frame mould ). Changed the driving seat with a burnt frame seat. cut the skirt on the damaged side and put a metal one in its place in order to be able to bend it properly. Made the parts you can see in the trunk since you would not be supposed to see anything there. Added a front light from a tiger kit as i've seen pictures of german converted tankettes with added front lights. the rest is right as it comes with the kit. two words on the kit: kit has its ups and downs, i would say there are more ups than down considered the price. Don't expect extreme quality but don't expect total crap too like the price would suggest. Details are good, lots of rivets, no sprue flash at all, amazing quantity of extra parts, two sets of tracks ( plastics coming with good details, and rubbery, with rubbish details ) even some textures on parts like the seats or the skirts, soft plastic easy to work with. On the downside the way its parts are designed it feels like an old kit, doesn't come togheter extremely well, need some reworks here and there and instructions are crappy, so it requires a little bit of experience and extra work to put it togheter. But it's extremely cheap, it's a particular subject, it's cute, if it tickles your curiosity or you want to use it, like i did, to make some experiments, i say give it a try. Having said that, here are the pictures ( i apologize for having made them with my phone but i've no better camera at the moment ): and a picture just to make clear its size:
  37. 2 points
    What on earth are you drinking? Real beer should be warm and no gas in it
  38. 2 points
    Working on the Matchbox 1/76 LRDG diorama set. the build nearly didn't happen, as the decals were missing. Thankfully, one of the Britmodeller members donated a set. Finished this Jeep last night, great fun, but going crosseyed working at such a small scale..
  39. 2 points
    Point of order: Our cat only craps in our garden as it's too fat to squeeze through the hedge to next door
  40. 2 points
    Thank you, John! Final touches: dark paint to show minor flaws. And some Gunze putty applied with a thin brush. I´ll sand it later. Painted some small parts: And then I was ready for beer & cheese.
  41. 2 points
    I guess its what you get used too. We're lucky having the best peanut butter in the world made right here in Nelson, Godzone. We buy it by the 2 kg bucket, beautiful stuff. I like our Marmite well enough too, buttered toast, thin smear of marmite, grated cheese & a short spell under the grill, awesome bed time snack, gives the very best dreams you could imagine. Steve.
  42. 2 points
    Hi All, I am joining with this Ex MatchBOX kit, I plan to build the Beaufighter during "Operation Firedog" in Malaya. Beau_T_01 by Thomas Ng
  43. 2 points
    You only have to say my name once and I'll appear (unlike Beetlejuice). There's some lovely work going on here, even though it isn't in 1/72 and they aren't Spitfires. (PS. I have Seafires to do too. I think they might have moved up my to-do list.)
  44. 2 points
    Pylons and missiles assembled. I'm using R-33, R-73, and R-77 missiles. The R-77's are from the KH Su-17 kit, as I felt they had better detail than the HB ones.The wheels are also finished, and will be put by for later. The tyres are rubber/vinyl, and aren't as bad as I thought they'd be. I used an AK Dark Earth pigment on the tyres, and they've come up pretty well, and ill finish them off with a couple of light coats of matt. DSC_0212 by ian gaskell, on FlickrDSC_0212 by ian gaskell, on FlickrDSC_0212 by ian gaskell, on Flickr
  45. 2 points
    You can see how he does it. If you ask enough questions you will get a plausible answer and I suspect he is looking for visual cues as well. Like to put him against a top class poker player or barrister.
  46. 2 points
    The presenters seemed to be enjoying it though It's surprising that even after this sort of thing has been debunked time after time on TV by people who show you how to do it, they still make money Boggles the mind
  47. 2 points
    Following on from my post with the Airfix NA39, built oldee stylee, I thought I could get away with elaborating a bit as to how I build and collect. I'm a bit odd in that I model the model, rather than the real thing. My ideal build is one you might have seen in a model shop window when you were a kid. Following that logic to its natural conclusion, a Model Shop would be nice as well! I model the nostalgic side of the hobby. It takes all sorts... Here's my old hobby room. It was the spare bedroom in the flat I lived in. I built it to work in and display my kits and builds. The room was about 12x8 with a full length window along one long wall. The shelving and storage underneath was built by me out of old sheets of shuttering ply. Pegboard laid over stringers on the walls gave it a nice old feel. The display here was set up to show the guy who organised the Airfix exhibition at the RAF Museum at Hendon a while back. I told him this lot was a sample and could be expanded in any direction if needed. Get me and my showing off! He left and never got back to me. The display above was a general Airfix one, these two shots show a more Type 3 setup, circa 1968 or so... The room did sterling duty for the ten years we lived there. Recently we moved to Cambridgeshire, loosing the room. I now have to build a Hobby Room Shed in the garden of our new place. I intend it to look like a full on Model Shop inside. If your gonna dream, dream big! The downside is that most of my stash is stored away in the loft, awaiting the new shed. That should happen next summer if I get my finger out. Enough waffle, here's a few more vintage builds... Thanks for indulging me, Tony.
  48. 2 points
    Mid week update. A few little decals added to the interior. Decals added to the windows The wheels are finally finished after the centre cap decal was added, I did try the tyre decals but they where very oversized so chose to take it off again. The engine e is now on the chassis. The hood ducts are finally in also, they were a little bit of a pain as they didn't properly fit so need to be filed down. The lights are also now in the car. A little touch up is needed but over all I'm happy. More soon Shaun
  49. 2 points
    Basic scratch building materials; Plastic card sheets in 10 thou = 0.25 mm 20 thou = 0.5 mm 30 thou = 0.75 mm 40 thou = 1 mm Clear plastic sheet [ can come from vac moulded packaging] Aluminium foil [aka Tin foil] the thicker type on food trays Plastic section in Square; 1mm to 4mm Rectangle; similar sizes Hollow square tubing; similar sizes Hollow rectangle tubing; similar sizes Round tube; from 0.5mm up, also in brass Round rod; similar L. H, U & C sections in small [1mm x Y ] to medium sizes [6mm x Y] Brass, copper, iron and lead wire in various thicknesses, not all types are needed A couple of packets each of Slaters Micro-rod mixed sizes Plastic strip in mixed sizes Various glues; from regular plastic to UV resin and two-part epoxy Fillers; all sorts, but especially Milliput A couple of small boxes to keep scrap in; don't throw away sprue sections. All plastic is very valuable to the scratch builder/detailer Learn to heat stretch sprue too With this lot you can tackle just about any scratch building detailing A bit of imagination is needed to convert a plastic section to a detail on the model eg: I use deep U section to 'box' in some types of wheel bays, H section can be the floor and sides of a cockpit, Slaters strip glued to the fuselage makes the airframe internal ribbing, copper wire becomes wires or hydraulic pipes Get lots and lots of pictures of what you want to depict. Don't try to copy it all, just a portion. Work slowly. Its a 3D Jigsaw without the instructions hth
  50. 2 points
    Getting a bit yellow in here
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