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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/02/18 in all areas

  1. Good morning from Viet Nam ! This is my lattest build, the Saab Viggen AJ-37 from Special Hobby. This is actuallu a rebox of Tarangus Viggen with the added of color PE for the cockit. The fit is good overall, consider the nature of limit run kit. There are some inaccuracies lies within the kit, especiall the tiny main wheels which is too thin. I used several plastic sheets to add the thickness then sand to shaped. Paint use mostly with Gunze Color, weathering done with Mig and chipping here and there with color pencil The splinter camo is the hardest paint job I have done up to date. Maestor made a paint mask sheet for this camo, however the fit isn't that good and need a lot touch up to follow. Weapons are Maverick Missles from Eduard, RBF tags, others are from spare box. Pitot tubes from Master Model ( I think ) The Saab Viggen will surely stand out from all the F 16,18 etc thanks to it camo and muscle shape. The build was fun but the splinter camo is something I won't try again Thanks for reading !
    44 points
  2. I'm on a bit of a roll with the Mustangs at the moment. Now that I've got a bit of a grip on airbrushing technique and the use of Alclad, the options seem almost limitless (and that's just in the 8th AF which is my interest). But there are a couple of iconic P-51s that I've always wanted to do, including at least one of the aircraft in those classic photos of the 'Bottisham Four' taken on 26 July 1944. Here's 361FG CO Lt Col Christian's 'Lou IV' captured on film that day: And here's my rendition of it. It's the lovely little Airfix 1/72 kit, basically out of the box but with fin fillet removed, wing panels puttied, canopy rails added, elevator mass balances scribed, and a rear view mirror scrounged: Decals are Eaglecals, which worked beautifully. The main code letters were a bit too tall so I cropped them a touch to get the fit just right. Underwing tanks are from the kit, but I moved the filler cap on one of them and added the flange that runs round the middle of both. I also added the plumbing for good measure. Paint is Alclad Polished Aluminium for the natural metal, and plain Aluminium for the lacquered areas. This was protected by a coat of Alclad gloss clear, brushed on - it worked a treat. The greens went on next and are both Tamiya: the dark areas are Olive Drab (brush painted and inspired by our very own Tony O'T's impressive results), and the lighter bits are RAF Dark Green (a mix of brush on the fuselage and airbrush on the wings). There's been a lot of discussion over the colours which I took into account before making my decisions. The invasion stripes were airbrushed for the wings and brushed on the fuselage. And the yellow is Xtracrylix. Final varnish is my preferred mix of Humbrol enamel Satin and Matt. To get a hopefully accurate reproduction of the underneath I used period photos of Christian's aircraft: ...and of 'Tika IV' also from the 361st FG. Both appear not to have invasion stripes on the radiator door: The cockpit is stock Airfix, so the seat, instrument panel and gunsight are not correct for a D-5 model. But I'm not fussed about that: the aim of this build was to get a decent replica of that classic paint job, and I don't think it's too far off. Here she is with my fairly recently built P-51B, which used the KP wing and the Hasegawa fuselage: Hope you like it! Justin
    29 points
  3. Here she is: Williams Brothers classic 1/72 Boeing 247D airliner, modified to the original 247 (no 'D') configuration. That conversion included modifying the kit's 'straight-line' fin/rudder to the earlier 'notched' style, and detailing the hinges; cutting off the kit engine nacelles and scratchbuilding new smaller-diameter ones (from Monogram 1/48 F4U-4 drop tanks); and using the engines and speed-ring cowlings from an Airfix 1/72 Ford Trimotor to replace the kit's late-style NACA-design fully-enclosed engine cowlings. (Both real aircraft utilized the same Pratt & Whitney R-1340 Wasp engines, so it was an easy swap...just requiring new scratchbuilt exhaust collectors.) The kit includes the early-style 'forward slant' canopy as an option; though I had to cut out the centerline pilot's hatch and replace it with an acetate piece, since the kit canopy is a two-piece affair with the seam running right down the center. I added the early-style tall aerial mast forward of the canopy from a shaped section of bamboo barbecue skewer, to give it enough strength and rigidity to stand up to the tightly-stretched EZ-Line aerial. Details on the finish can be found in the WIP here. Decals were all made up on my PC and printed on my faithful HP inkjet, using Testors decal paper and their Decal-Bonder spray to seal. The decals included something I tried for the first time: 'printed' panel lines. Uncertain of how visible my usual 'pencil' technique would be against assorted shades of silver, I made up a bunch of straight and curved lines in various thicknesses and colors, to apply as decals. I used the charcoal-grey versions exclusively---the black were much too high-contrast---and it worked fairly well, particularly on the 247's complex curved nose panels. There were two main drawbacks: homemade decals tend to want to curl, and with tiny strips of panel lines this became an exercise in patience in some areas. The other drawback comes from putting mainly clear-film decals over a silver finish: even with a Future undercoat and liberal use of Solvaset, there were some 'silvering' areas that remained invisible until the final finish-coat was applied. Most could be dealt with, but a few rough areas frustratingly remained. The aircraft I chose to depict---NC13304---was the fourth production machine of the total 75 built, and went into service in April 1933; it is the same one shown in a well-known overhead photo taken over the Chicago World's Fair in the summer of that same year. Here's the same aircraft as it might have looked on the evening 0f 10 October, 1933: United Airlines' regularly-scheduled 'Trip 23'---they didn't yet refer to them as 'Flights'---preparing to depart following a twenty-minute refueling stop at Ohio's Cleveland Hopkins Airport, on the next leg of her trans-continental route from Newark, New Jersey to Oakland, California. Now headed for Chicago, the ill-fated airliner was about to enter the annals of aviation history...but for all the wrong reasons. At approximately 8:49 PM, the pilot radioed his regular position report, with all normal and the aircraft on-course for the Windy City. When the next scheduled communication---twenty minutes later---wasn't made, it raised no particular alarm, since radio communication was still highly subject to weather and/or occasional technical difficulties. Alarms were raised a short time later, as confused reports started to come in from ground witnesses: an explosion had been heard in the night skies over the rural farm area near Chesterton, Indiana. A short time later, wreckage was found: the aircraft had been torn apart in mid-air---by what authorities later determined was most likely a nitroglycerin bomb planted in a lavatory storage cabinet---with the loss of all aboard: four passengers (the aircraft could have carried as many as ten) and three crew, including pilot, co-pilot and stewardess. This first-ever bombing of a commercial passenger aircraft---an act of what we would now call 'terrorism,' though then it was merely referred to as 'sabotage'---was extensively investigated by the FBI and civil aviation authorities. Despite pursuing numerous seemingly-promising leads and an ever-widening list of possible suspects who had any potential connection with the airline, the flight, or its passengers or crew, no credible motive for the act was ever determined...no probable suspect(s) firmly identified...and no credit claimed by any individual or organization, for having brought the airliner down. The puzzle of the ill-fated United Air Lines 'Trip 23' remains the oldest 'cold case' in commercial aviation---and one of the most frustrating and elusive 'unsolved' cases in the entire history of aviation.
    26 points
  4. Hi folk's I was never really into Frog kit's as a youngster they were not as ready available as Airfix or Matchbox so this is the first of a half dozen Frog kit's I'll be working through in the next couple of month's.It was still sealed when I found it at a local Sunday Market for a tenner Decal's were poor but I managed to save the serials and codes and after a few hairy moment's got them on.NV427 was with 404 Sqn RCAF and was lost on a mission over Norway on 8th March 1945 sadly with the loss of her crew.As will the other's I'm simply building OOB as we used to hopefully with a better paint job and no gluey fingerprints than years ago!Thank's for looking in.Tempest,Typhoon,Blenhiem,Boston and Hunter to follow.
    18 points
  5. Hi all, one of the great things about working for Airfix Model World is the chance to build some really off-piste subjects that I would never normally attempt. Such is the case with the Basler BT-67 Turbo-Dakota conversion I built for the October 2017 issue. The base kit is the excellent Airfix Dakota III while the conversion set came from Alley Cat. There are several variants to be had in the range but in this case, we chose the single Mauritanian Air Force example, serial 5T-MAH, mainly due to its natty colour scheme. As was to be expected the Alley Cat parts fitted the kit perfectly with only the extra side windows needing to be made from clear acetate. As the BT-67 has a revised semi-glass cockpit the whole nose interior needed to be upgraded and this was done using parts from the Airfix kit, scratch-built panels and bulkheads, instrument panel, revised yokes, dials, via Airscale and the usual throttles, pedals and fire extinguishers. This version also featured a Star SAFIRE FLIR system for surveillance operations, and while the under-nose turret was included, the operator's area, seat, table and FLIR screen had to be scratch-built and fitted. True-Details resin wheels replaced the kit parts as these had a far better level of detail and the rear boarding ladder had railings fitted. The cargo interior also received new bench seats along with all strapping.The top of the forward fuselage was festooned with aerials and sensors that needed to be scratch-built and added along with the new oblong window added above the pilot's position. The model was painted using Lifecolour and AK Interactive Air-Series acrylics and weathering a mix of Abteilung502 oils, AMMO-MIG pastels and AK Interactive oil and grime washes. Good fun and highly recommended. Hope you like it... Cheers Melchie
    17 points
  6. 1/72 ē±³ē©ŗč» ē¬¬35ęˆ¦é—˜čˆŖē©ŗ団F-16CJ ćƒ•ć‚”ć‚¤ćƒ†ć‚£ćƒ³ć‚°ćƒ»ćƒ•ć‚”ćƒ«ć‚³ćƒ³ "ćƒÆć‚¤ćƒ«ćƒ‰ćƒ»ć‚¦ć‚£ćƒ¼ć‚¼ćƒ«"F-16CJ Fighting Falcon "Wild Weasel" #90-0802 of 35FW, Pacific Air Force (PACAF), Misawa AB, JAPAN.The 35th Fighter Wing is an air combat unit of the United States Air Force and the host unit at Misawa Air Base, Japan. The wing is part of Pacific Air Forces (PACAF)'s Fifth Air Force.
    14 points
  7. Hi! Here are the photos of my latest work. It`s the ICM kit,which despite having received a lot of "flack" builds up into a beautifull model. It has several issues, mainly with the cockpit, but, after the glass work was installed, this modeller can live very well with it. paints utilised: Vallejo Model Air e acrĆ­licos Mig. detailing sets: Eduard interior and exterior set If you have interest, you can find in my blog around 90 fotos with all the building and painting process explained. http://josepiresmodelismo.blogspot.pt/ This model was part of Airfix Model World mag, December 2017 issue.
    13 points
  8. hello hall My first 2018 OOB , P40N Eduard... (hasegawa + Eduard goodies ) ,I have voluntarily not to modify some small errors of the kit I wanted to make a simple and fast made thing relax... And enjoy me with the painting and the weathering painting Gunze and Tamiya , oil wash , pigments Mig and Tamiya , and my water colors pencils best regards Pascal.
    12 points
  9. Just finished this today. It's Hasegawa's 1/48 Grumman F6F-5 Hellcat finished in Mr Color 71 and with the kit decals. The cowling is by DMold and the wheels are True Details - sadly they solidly stuck in position before I could rotate them so the flats are correctly orientated. I also lost a pylon stub during polishing. More details at https://jonbryon.com/hasegawa-1-48-grumman-f6f-5-hellcat/. Thanks for looking Jon
    12 points
  10. The Trumpeter kit isn't too bad. Fit is pretty good, detail adequate and the decals settle own nicely. One negative about the kit is the weapons. You get 3 drop tanks, more than a few Mk 83's, two MER's and two AGM-12's. It's is a little bit limiting as early in Rolling Thunder, thuds normally carried 6 Mk 117 bombs on an MER on the center line mount, but you get no centerline weapons mount either. For aircraft venturing into the more dangerous RP's, a QRC-160 jamming pod and AIM-9B were carried for self defense, neither of these are included. Thus I used Hasegawa weapons sets and scratch built a center line mount for the MER. This aircraft, 61-0132 was flown by 1st LT David Waldrop III on his double MiG killing mission over the Yen Vien Rail Marshaling Yards on August 23rd 1967. He claimed and was initially credited with gunning down two MiG 17's, although later on his second kill was disallowed. Waldrop would complete 100 missions over North Vietnam.
    11 points
  11. @Stew Dapple @CedB @giemme @Biggles87 @keefr22 @At Sea @TheBaron @rob85 @Max Headroom Thanks guys, you are really too kind. A little more tonight. the other wall was put in and some wires at the far side. The tops had to be sanded, I couldnā€™t get her looking as neat as I wanted so I stuck on two strips of paper thin plasticard. Much better. I donā€™t know if you can see the little holders just in the middle of the main section? Well theyā€™re CrAzY small, I have to fit 0.3mm wire twixt that bomb bracket and the holder. My eyes are so Iā€™ll leave the rest for tomorrow. oh and. Thanks CC you are a true Gent. I canā€™t wait to settle the bit inside itā€™s new home. Thanks for looking in. More soon. Take care and as always. Happy Modelling. Jont.
    11 points
  12. Almost OOB model, I used Eduard masking tapes for canopy and zoom for the cockpit.
    10 points
  13. Will you be building it with the bomb doors closed?
    9 points
  14. Hi everyone, just put the finishing touches on my attempt at Hobbycrafts 1/48 Beaver, which I hope you don`t mind me sharing Finished to represent a RU-6A Beaver of the 146th Radio Research Company, Army Security Agency, US Army, Vietnam Which were used to monitor North Vietnamese Radio Traffic and Intelligence Gathering I had to do on of these to compliment my RU-1A Otter I did a little while back that you may remember Apart from the obvious aerials and dipoles, made a few improvements the the base kit, including: brake pipes, steps on the undercarriage legs, embellished the kit steps on the fuselage........ ...made a new exhaust and wiring harness on the engine Markings came: some from the decal stash and some handpainting Finally a shot of it with its bigger RU-1A Otter brother... Hope you enjoy, Thanks for looking Cheers Russ PS I`ve done some new shots of the Otter now I`ve added the missing centre pillar on the windscreen and thanks to Larry for providing the kit
    8 points
  15. Hi Gents. This is the superb Ki-61-Tei from Tamiya in 1/48th in the colors of the 19th SentaĆÆ, an emergency unit swallowed by the God of War in the Philippines in 44. I have used pictures of real aircrafts of this unit to create the paint job, using the hair spray technic. All markings are mask made, and the tail markings touch up with a brush to simulate the hand paint job. Best regards. DSC_0001 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0002 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0005 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0001 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0002 by jean Barby, sur Flickr 1280px-Kawasaki_Ki-61_Hien_with_drop_tank by jean Barby, sur Flickr
    8 points
  16. "The First Jet Squadron"F-16B Block 5 Netz #008-780539 of Lt. Col. Ytzhak, 117 Squadron "First Jet", Ramat David Airbase, Israel.It will be an out of the box project, with stock decals and parts from Hobbyboss, but I will use IDF weapons from Skunk Models Workshop.It's a Hobbyboss kit, Nr. 80273 issued at year 2008. Fitting are good, details are acceptable, everything is nice! Thank you for viewing and Happy Chinese New Year!!
    8 points
  17. PK42 Rockwell T-2C Buckeye VT-19, U.S. Navy NAS Meridian 1975 1/72 Revell by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
    8 points
  18. I'm a newcomer to the world of 1/76 to 1/72 AFV's so I can only speak for myself - but for me it' all about 'fun'. I've actually been looking for more naĆÆve kits - to see what I can add to them - rather than the ultra-detailed resin kits that you can get. I've been majoring on PSC kits - which have very little detail - but they do come with 'toy soldiers' and as Ratch says - it takes you back to when you were a kid - 'playing war'... There is always the thrill of the 'money shot' too - in 1/76 - it's a 1p piece ...but never forget - don't take things too seriously - this is supposed to be fun after all - or as Mrs X says... ...give it a go - it's fun
    8 points
  19. I cant believe that I only started this two weeks ago. This is not the version with the already painted body work. I decided to add extra coloured wires (painted lead wires) to the back plate to busy it up a bit (a large expanse with lots of gaps otherwise. I also added twisted red/yellow wire to the main body to add a bit of visual interest. A really fun kit and probably the only model I have ever brought that I have sent a pic of to my wife from a model show and got told that I have to buy it (she is a big Back to the Future fan) I also tried to add heat staining to the two exhausts at the back, which I am pleased with how they came out. _20180213_113038 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113120 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113316 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113751 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130029 (2) by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130030 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130031 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113254 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113609 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113705 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_113158 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130032 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130033 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130034 by Richard Page, on Flickr P2130037 by Richard Page, on Flickr Couldnt resist taking these photos of my two 80's film legends together _20180213_112835 by Richard Page, on Flickr _20180213_112807 by Richard Page, on Flickr
    7 points
  20. Two-Seat T-Harrier (T.2/T.2A/T.4/T.4N/T.8) 1:48 Kinetic Model The Harrier is an iconic (in the truest sense) example of what was possible when British Aviation was at its prime. It was a revolutionary design back in the 60s, and has seen many improvements and even a complete re-vamp in the shape of the Harrier II, which saw McDonnell Douglas get more heavily involved, giving the US Marines their much beloved AV-8B, and the British the Gr.5/7/9, all of which had new wings, massively upgraded avionics and improved versions of the doughty Pegasus engine, which was always at the heart of this legendary design. The Harrier is a difficult aircraft to fly due to the high pilot workload, and requires the best pilots to do it justice, which means that trainer variants are essential, as simulators can only offer so much realism, even now. The first trainers rolled out in the 1970s, and have been upgraded along similar lines to their operational brethren to provide as close to real-world training conditions as practical. The fuselage was extended at the nose, with a huge blister canopy encompassing both seats, with the instructor sitting substantially higher than their pupil to afford them a good view ahead, and a long, weighted "stinger" tail extention to equalise the centre of gravity with the single seater. Although it disrupts the sleek lines of the single-seat variant, the Trainers have a strange charm of their own, and there have been some interesting schemes, including the Raspberry Ripple and Qinetiq liveries over the years. The Harrier II trainers have the new composite wing, and are designated T.10/12. The Kit For many years modellers of the Harrier have been crying out for a good quality kit in this scale, and also the two-seat variants, with only a partial answer being forthcoming until now. Kinetic have put a lot of effort and research into creating models of the two Sea Harriers already the FRS.1 and FA.2, both of which we have reviewed in the past, and have been well-received for their overall level of accuracy. Now we have this new tooling, which has a substantial cross-over with the original, and sold out so quickly that we have only now received our sample for review from the second batch that have been commissioned. Something tells me this won't be the last re-pop of the moulds. This kit deals with the earlier "tin wing" Harriers before the introduction of composites, so the most recent variant is the T.8, and anything earlier, all from the same box. There are nine sprues in grey styrene, three of which are new, plus one that has been slightly tweaked for this edition. There are two sprues of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a large decal sheet and the instruction manual. The big changes are forward of the engine intake "ears", but the rear boom is also extended for balance purposes, which helps achieve the ungainly look of the finished model, and that of course is exactly how it should look! The cockpit has two ejection seats with separate cushions and headbox details, plus slightly simplified PE crew belts and the pull handle between the pilot's knees. These are fitted into the stepped cockpit tub with rudder pedals, dual control columns, instrument panels that have separate painting guides, coamings, HUD and the big windscreen-within-a-windscreen that shields the pilots from ejection backwash in the event a quick exit is required. Detail in the cockpit is good, and will come up well once painted with a fine brush and some patience. In order to close up the fuselage the main gear bay boxes are built and painted, as is the bell-shaped intake trunking, having the front section on the nose gear bay attached to the underside of the cockpit tub, and the aft section to the fuselage sides. The rear bay is attached to the mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to rotate, which must be positioned opposite their exits before you can close up the fuselage. A choice of open or closed auxiliary vents are provided, which slot inside the intake lips, and the closed ones depict the characteristic gravity droop of the upper doors, which is as it should be. The wing is top mounted, with the anhedral moulded into the full width top panel, and the lower panels separate parts that bracket the fuselage sides. Separate flaps and their actuator fairings are provided, and although undocumented in the instruction booklet, these can be replaced by parts E1 to pose them dropped. Clear wingtip lights are supplied, which makes adding them a breeze, as their location would be a pain to fabricate your own. More good things! There is a choice of three tail fins, each with a separate rudder, and the elevators have a separate swash-plate and pivot lug for attachment to the fuselage, and the wing panel can be fitted nose-first, using a small lug at the front to find the correct location and alignment. There are no LERX to worry about on the older tin wings, and just a tiny PE mesh insert covers a vent at the rear of the cockpit spine behind the air conditioning. At this point the airframe is ostensibly complete, so spare a little time here to whoosh it around the room making suitable jet noises and ensuring you don't get caught doing it. The smaller assemblies are then built up, including the bicycle wheels, the canopy parts with some additional PE and plastic parts, plus a set of plastic rear-view mirrors to finish them off. You have a choice of laser or a pointy nose cone, which varied between airframes, as detailed in the accompanying chart, with another chart showing which tail stinger was fitted to which airframe to ensure you get both ends just right. Another choice of undernose inserts is made between T.8s and the rest, and the main gear can be fitted along with their respective gear bay doors, and a choice of small or large air-brake, which has its own chart of which one was fitted to which airframe. It makes a lot of sense to choose your decal option at the outset. Lumps, bumps, aerials and antennae are fitted on almost every spare inch of the airframe, plus an optional shoulder-mounted refuelling probe, PE stays for the side-opening canopies, after which you just need to decide what to hang under the wings and fuselage of this ungainly but beautiful aircraft. You have a choice of gun pods or strakes under the fuselage, which was always fitted with one or the other to keep the airflow from the engines diving under the fuselage too soon, and when the outer pylon is not used, a small cover is fitted instead. Kinetic are usually generous with their weapons, and here you a decent array too, most of which are on two identical sprues, with a few others knocking about on the others. The parts most fitted are as follows: 2 x 190 gallon fuel tank 2 x 100 gallon fuel tank 2 x Aden gun pod There are various other weapons on the sprues that would usually end up in the spares bin, as most training sorties would be flown with either a clean airframe, or with extra tankage as required. The trainer is technically combat capable however, so can carry other munitions should the need arise. Typically, this seems to consist mainly of Sidewinders of rocket pods depending on training requirements. Markings The decal sheet is A4 sized, and printed by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Design was carried out by CrossDelta, and includes a host of stencils that are covered on a separate page, plus ten options for different airframes and operators. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD990/721, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 2004-2005, RN Fixed Wing Standards Flight to April 2006 ā€“ gloss black overall, with black or grey tanks and winged fist on the tail. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm, T.8 ZD605/720, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 ā€“ gloss black overall with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD604/722, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 ā€“ Gloss black overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD605/718, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton,1985 ā€“ Dark sea grey overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW265/W 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1992 ā€“ Grey green camo overall. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW266/51 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1975 ā€“ Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW272/Z IV(AC) Squadron, RAF GĆ¼ttersloh, 1980 ā€“ Grey green camo over light grey undersides. US Marine Corps TAV-8A VMAT-203, MCAS Cherry Point, Late 1970s - Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Armada EspaƱola (Spanish Navy) TAV-8S 8a Esquadrilla (8th Squadron), 1988 ā€“ gull grey over white. Royal Thai Navy TAV-8S, 301 Squadron late 1990s ā€“ Gull grey over white. The intake roundels are sensibly broken into sections with separate parts for each of the blow-in doors to ensure good settlement into the shapes found there. I would have liked to have seen some decals for the instruments, but with a detailed painting guide for that area it's not a major problem, and even if it is, Eduard are bound to be along any moment now with a PE set that will give you all the detail you need. Conclusion We now have a rather nice Trainer Harrier in 1:48, and I for one couldn't be happier. Two of them is better of course, but a modern, detailed model was much needed. How long will tranche two of the mouldings last? Not long, at a guess, so if you're planning on getting one, I wouldn't hang around. I'm also getting the prayer mat out to wish for the composite wing 2-seaters. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
    6 points
  21. So I am about to embark upon my next build adventure, Italeri's 1:72 Stirling Mk.IV, and As.51 Horsa Mk.I to recreate the glider tug and pay tribute to the role they played during D-Day. The first kit I'm using is the Stirling Mk.IV, the Short Sterling was the RAF's first heavy bomber to be used during World War Two. The Mk.IV was adapted as a glider tug and used to tow Horsa and Hamilcar gliders. The box includes 5 excellently detailed sprues, as well as a clear sprue and Pe parts. There are 4 different colour schemes, with accompanying decals. I am planning to go with the scheme of 299 Squadron which flew from RAF Keevil, and could have towed the Horsa I am planning to build. The second kit, the AS. 51 Horsa Mk.I in contrast is minimal in parts and appearance. The box contains 2 sprues (with very little detail, as you probably would expect on a glider) and a clear sprue. There is also a sprue of Paratroopers (although I am not planning on using them for this project). The colour scheme and decals are that of the Horsa used in Operation "Tonga" Pegasus bridge 1944. I am planning on building them in flight, with the Stirling towing the Horsa, for that I will be adding small stands, but apart from this adaptation they will be out of the box builds. It's going to be a long build but I'm very excited about the work ahead.
    6 points
  22. This Bf 109G-6 (part of the AZ Joypack I bought) is an aircraft of the Royal Hungarian Air force (Magyar KirĆ”lyi HonvĆ©d LĆ©gierő (MKHL)), W.O+21, of the 101st Home Defence Air Wing (101. Honi LĆ©gvĆ©delmi VadĆ”szrepĆ¼lő OsztĆ”ly), known as the "Red Pumas". Post war, the success of the Red Pumas against the Soviets was not an acceptable topic, and many of the pilots were severely punished for their actions during the war. However, the unit was reborn in 1988, and has since then proudly flown MiG 21 and 27 fighters and is now moving onto Saab JAS39's. The Red Pumas were considered an elite formation, and their successes (albeit at high cost) fully support this designation. This aircraft, W.O+21 was the mount of Lieutenant LĆ”szlo DĆ”niel. His aircraft is unusual in that it sports kill marks. Where the display of victories on aircraft was pretty much de rigeur on USAAF, Luftwaffe and even Soviet aircraft, it was almost unheard of in the MKHL. The bars on the tail show DĆ”niel's early kills against the USAAF in the period of June and July 1944: a P-38, plus another shared, two shared B-24's and a further individual P-38, claimed but unconfirmed. He went on to score a further six kills against the Russian in 1945, and survived the war. As I said, this was an AZ Joypack kit ā€“ Iā€™d recommend these with no hesitation, except for the fact that thereā€™s only one early canopy in the set. Fortunately, vacform canopies such as Rob Taurus easily fill the void. Paints are the usual Tamiya mixes (RLM 74/75/76), and in this case I avoided panel washes and the like, just putting on a bit of smoke from the low-quality fuel that plagued late-war Axis operations. The decals are from a set by Print Scale: the decals themselves are superb, and although the instructions are a bit basic, the research is pretty good and all the profiles of the subjects can be traced to photos!
    6 points
  23. Bit of an update here. Once all the colours had fully dried, I did a light panel wash with thinned black/brown oil paint. I then started using pure oil paint to create lighter versions of the plane's base colours. It's fairly repetetive, so I only took photos of the first round, which was making a pale sand yellow colour, which was then thinly stippled onto the middle of sand panels. This was then blurred in with a soft brush. Here I find it's helpful to have the dark oil pin wash still a bit wet, as it effectively stops the pale shade spreading from panel to panel. Like a little dark-tone moat! Here it is a bit more worked in.... This was repeated for the greens also. The guns I snapped off (of course) over the painting process were replaced. The stumps cut flat, then spares cut to correct angles and glued on from the outside. Sadly I had to snip off the prop attachment points, as it became clear to me that in spite of my best efforts the engines were not lined up straight inside the nacelles! Not sure why, but they look OK from through the access panels, and I don't think anyone will know better once the props and spinners are on! This leaves the Ju88 at the below stage. I will leave the oil to dry a few days, then put decals down, and weather those before brushing on a layer of Vallejo satin varnish, which should take the shine off the pale blue... Which, as one can see, came out of the Belton can inexplicably high-gloss. Thanks for looking! Bruce
    6 points
  24. Here is my recently completed AMG Bf 109 B. The complete build thread can be found here: After fighting the AMG Bf 109 A to a draw, I thought I wouldn't want to touch another one for quite some time. But the more I looked at the finished model the more I liked it. This time I didn't adhere to "out of the box" rules and added a few bits. However the AMG kit is so complete, not much was necessary. The cockpit only needed a little sprucing up with some stretched sprue, plastic card and some Eduard preprinted steel seat belts. I also added a Squadron Vac canopy, Barracudacast wheels and wire brake lines. Decals came from A Kagero monograph (Cartograph) and Print Scale. Paints, as always, are Gunze Sangyo aqueous. All in all, this is a very good kit, but not without fit problems. And here it is side by side with its older brother.
    5 points
  25. I was looking over some of the pictures I took whilst we were ensconced beneath the mighty TSR2 at one of the shows Not weathered just old is about the finest description she could have now Do you mind me dropping this here? I can remove as soon as you like, if you like Bill All those fasteners must have been opened hundreds of times, and she didn't even fly
    5 points
  26. Thanks Martin, I thought so, but often all we could see from the gliding club car park was the tip of a tail fin. The dates on the information for G-BDIX certainly tie in with our late 70s, early eighties Sunday picnics. Thanks mate, nearly as tall as his old man now! Your correspondent is is not getting taller, quite the reverse, although he is getting rounder! Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr Not sure that Jet Provost ejector seat could shift me! The Harrier flight received some primer, mainly as a witness coat Primer by jongwinnett, on Flickr Pleasingly it looks as though the tail mods have blended in pretty seamlessly. I'm nervous the canopy join may have let overspray through, won't know until I unmask I wanted to prime the JP too, but discovered a world of fiddlyness in fitting the canopy and masking, plus the blasted thing seems to need a dozen different colours so I'll need to spray black first (Canopy frameinteriors), then white (top half of fuselage, hopefully that'll do for the red too, then grey underneath. Eek. If I was more confident perhaps I would skip primer and go straight to top coats? I'm still having a lot of grief gluing canopies, the PVA takes a long while to grab and I don't seem able to apply it neatly.
    5 points
  27. No prizes for guessing which aircraft our newly acquired stash queen will eventually represent! Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr
    5 points
  28. Hi guys! So i'm afraid i've very much caught the submarine bug. Having started with the Kursk here, I've moved onto Bronco's HMS Vanguard, one of the 4 SSBNs handling our nuclear deterrent. The kit is simply stunning to put it simply, there's so much detail from the towed sonar array right towards the bow sonar. I painted the submarine three different shades of black (believe me I did! The photo set up I've got is a bit rough though...) to account for the sections below and above the waterline as well as the main 'deck' and fin. The bow sonar dome is Tamiya acrylic gloss black and the trident missile is simply NATO green and white. Weathering was kept basic because 1. This is only my second submarine so I'm trying to keep things easy for myself and 2. the reference photos I saw of it showed it to be relatively clean. Again, sorry for the quality of the photos, they may just look like variable photos of a black pudding but thanks for looking! Sam
    5 points
  29. Welcome aboard, Tim! We're trying to do some justice to the old gal, hopefully it won't disappoint. To be honest, I had expected to be done by now, but Airfix decided to keep us honest and throw a few challenges our way. I'm on my second application of PPP on those nasty wing seams. It didn't look too bad after the first, but wifey has a critical eye and won't let me get away with that. I'm still thinking about how to get the panel lines back. Move them, I guess, and scribe near the joints but not on them (PPP doesn't really like to be scribed). I know, that's cheating, but what the heck. They probably weren't in the right place to begin with. Cheers, Bill
    5 points
  30. I hate building and painting aircraft undercarriage. The fuel tanks and pylons built-up. As well as these items, crew ladders will be added also.
    5 points
  31. Almost finished! Just needs to unmask the canopy parts and apply a flat coat to everything and I can call her done! Matt
    5 points
  32. I was! You don't think I wasn't going to miss something like this do you? I didn't have a decent camera in those days, only a little pocket Instamatic, so the images are quite grainy. Also, I didn't get much time to focus on anything specific; everything was happening so fast I couldn't decide whether to try and catch a jet or see where the bombs were landing etc. Mike
    5 points
  33. opps......... well there's no going back now.........
    5 points
  34. Apologies for the lack of updates. It's becoming clear I enjoy building more than finishing, so after the stress of the decals, I've retreated to plastic bashing - Harriers mainly. Hopefully a a combination of guilt and a day off will be motivation enough to get a move on with these two.
    5 points
  35. The 1:72 Modelsvit kit of the Su-20 built in Iraqi markings from the early stages of the Iran-Iraq war. Since it's a short run kit, it didn't exactly snap together, but nothing that could not be made to fit. Colours used are Model Master 2130 blue on underside, Model Master 1706 sand and Model Master 2081 green on upper side. FAB-250 bombs and tanks are kit parts. Decals are from Linden Hill Decals Iraqi Fighters sheet. While Iraqi decals are included in the kit, they appeared to not be have been printed properly, However I did yse the intake warning decals from the kit. The Linden Hill decals went on without any issues despite being in multiple parts. Yje green triangles go on first, then the bit in the middle. Wing decals are abgled so that they will point forward when the wings sweep back. The MiG-23 had the markings painted the same way on the wings. Linden Hill decal sheet. Build Progress Photos Su-20-62 by Ryan Hothersall, on Flickr Su-20-63 by Ryan Hothersall, on Flickr Su-20-64 by Ryan Hothersall, on Flickr Su-20-65 by Ryan Hothersall, on Flickr Su-20-66 by Ryan Hothersall, on Flickr
    5 points
  36. Hello all! Here are some photos of one of the models that i finished this year. This model was subject to publication on the May 2017 issue of Airfix Model World. As referred on the title, this is the well known TanModel kit. The first issue. The fit required some tweaking and was problematic around the camera bay windows. The paints used were: - X-1 Black as a base for the metalwork; - Fuselage colours from the Mr.Hobby range; - Alclad2 lacquers; - VAllejo Model Color generic colours; - Satin varnish from the Vallejo Model Air range Hope you like it! JosƩ Pires
    4 points
  37. Hi, these are only test photos about my Dragon Ausf.G Early version with Custom Scale 35035 Flakrakete Rheintochter IIa Resin Conversion, but with superdetalling and scratchbuild parts on sidewalls, including full telemetry system (thanks to MĆ¼nster Panzer Museum - references plants, diagrams and additional information). I am going to start the weathering now... Bellow: Bachem Ba 349 Natter, me and Reintochter in Deutsches Museum (Munich)... Overall view, in the foreground one fantastic Me 262 Schwalbe and Me 163 Komet, rheintochter on the right:
    4 points
  38. Made a start on this gorgeous little thing. Revell kit 07026. Engine decorated in a mix of Alclads Polished Aluminium, White Aluminium and Steel. Added some tiny bits of AK Interactive Grey Kriegsmarine wash. Tis German after all. And stripped wheels and gave them a coat of Alclad jet exhaust and dabbed Polished Aluminium on the fronts with a make-up sponge. Kinda worked how I wanted it to. I get the feeling this one will be a rather enjoyable build.
    4 points
  39. Dear modelers friends, For my first presentation I have chosen work on Winter theme. Why winter? Today, after a long time in Zagreb, has fallen a great snow so maybe this is the reason. So, this dioramas were made in scale 1/72. The Opel blitz trucks are made by the Academy and Italeri manufacturers, and the Sd.Kfz 261 is from the ICM manufacturer. Figures are from different manufacturers; Preiser, Milicast and Revell and I had a lot of self-construction on them. The environment of dioramas I made from natural materials (earth, sand, stones) produced by Nature in scale. Trees and shrubs are from the well-known Noch manufacturer. Snow is naturally sodium bicarbonate bonded to white glue and all handled with glossy lacquer. The story I wanted to show was somewhere in the far Russia in 1943. All comments are more than welcome Thanks for watching
    4 points
  40. #40/2015 It is done! My dad managed to finish number 40 for this year which is also really the last. Besides the USAAF also the USN tested experimental camos on their aircraft. The US artist McClelland Barclay designed 8 schemes which were applied to two Buffalos, two BT-1s, two Vindicators and two Devastators. In September 1940 scheme #8 was painted on the following VT-3 bird. Colors arenĀ“t 100 percent sure but it was a very dark blue, a brighter blue for the two vertical half-bows on the rudder, a grey and finally white for the underside. My dad used a selfmix for the dark blue, further Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue, Gunze H334 Barley Grey. GWH kit built oob, the camo was done with Uschi van der Rosten masks. kit generations.......Monogram together with Great Wall Hobby
    4 points
  41. My wargaming buddy convinced me to build a British army for Age of Eagles rules. He's finished a huge French and Spanish army and I've partially done seven stands. Here are two views of the first highlander stand. Really well sculpted Italeri figures painted as Gordon Highlanders. Figures finished, still have to do the groundwork. Call to Arms foot artillery, fixing the size of the base to suit the rules. and the mounted officer from the Emhar Peninsular war set. Lots of work still to do on him.
    4 points
  42. All right then, a little putty here and some sanding there... PPP is not the best stuff for feathering, my favourite is that red glazing putty that I use, but after all was said and done: I think she'll pass muster anyhow. I need to let the white cure until it doesn't smell like paint anymore (with Testors that usually takes a couple of days). Then I think I will blatantly steal borrow mimic be inspired by @Seversky's use of Gunze H21 off-white on many of the panels. Then we'll need to re-paint the gear and wheel wells with the lighter grey, along with the avionics bay. I think I'm going to use a very light grey wash (which I haven't made up yet) for the panel lines. I don't normally do that, but this overall white needs something. The actual aircraft is not really weathered, it's just old. The bogie arms have had some detail painting done, and I've also shot the tyres with Gunze H77 Tire Black. I'm anxious for the stickers myself! Cheers, Bill
    4 points
  43. Hello fellow modellers, Last summer I had a chance to buy my firs Airfix kit since more that 25years and I have to say I have been positively impressed. Really nothing to do with the old stuff I used to buy when I was a boy. The Defiant kit is nicely detailed and quite easy to build even if the turret requires a bit of patience. As usual for me it is an OOB with just little additional details like belts, some wiring etc. Paint has been done using airbrush and Tamiya acrylics with Tamiya spray cans for finishing. Any comment or suggestion is always welcome. Enjoy pictures. Cheers, Andy
    4 points
  44. Ahh, now then, as you mention the FROG/Hasegawa B-47 I have something to share with you............. The FROG issue of the B-47 with that evocative artwork and the colour painting guide. FROG issue moulded in the early dark silver plastic. My more recent HASEGAWA issue of the 1/72 B-47 Stratojet moulded in the softer grey plastic then the dark silver hard plastic of the earlier HASEGAWA/FROG issues. My completed HASEGAWA B-47. It would have looked like this if it had been the FROG one.......but they are hard to find and expensive.
    4 points
  45. Good man. 06/24 Minor and I had a splendid visit to the National Museum of Flight. Not much modelling in these next few photos, but bucketloads of inspiration: First XV277, the oldest surviving Harrier, development build airframe 6, iirc. GR.1 even though it has a vaguely Gr.3 nose, tail, and it has a funny extended tail cone. Never saw active service. National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr National Museum of Flight by jongwinnett, on Flickr
    4 points
  46. Intakes added, pimped up though with a touch of brightwork, might need dulling down a bit though. Enjoy folks Dan
    4 points
  47. I'll post some more here, with your permission Crisp, for your viewing community. I can send you larger resolution versions, plus others, by email if you pm me your addy. We did get the updated deck markings, that was the reason we were in dock. The photo of the deck from top of the mast was taken before re-marking and here is a view afterwards. Other views: Couple of good side views whilst the LCVP's were landed ashore during our refit.
    4 points
  48. It looks terrific, filler and all! On the subject of old vs new tooling, I've seen many more Vulcans built here than Valiants or Victors, so I guess the kit still sells well. From Airfix's commercial point of view it may be a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Regards, Adrian
    4 points
  49. Re: Measures - If rum doesn't fix the problem, you're not using enough rum...
    4 points
  50. Ah, I see what you mean, thanks Ramon For who's interested, at this page, if you scroll down to the bottom, you will see there's a 77-0186 belonging to 23rd TASS/602nd TACW, with a very clear pic of that "door art". And now that I look at it better, if you magnify the second pic, you can probably spot something like a green lizard, just like the one on Italeri decal sheet; so the only real problem now with them decals is related to pilot and crew names, which are for sure not the ones Italeri supplies. How about an update? More work detailing the front U/C bay copper wire, 1.1mm brass pipe and a copper pipe coming form those things you put on one end of an electrical wire, to allow for screw-in connections (I'm sure there's and English word for that, I just don't know it ... ) Oh, and some alu tape, of course A quick dryfit with the tub in place, to make sure there are no intererences While in place, I used a fine tipped brush to mark in black the position of the ribbing on the inner side of starboard fuselage half I then scribed some reference lines and used them to glue in some styrene strips trimmed to shape and size I tried to replicate the bay door actuator then a bit of masking, to avoid spraying primer and paint on the mating surfaces Primer on (Vallejo Grey Primner thinned with Future, as usual) I sprayed a couple of very thin coats, as I'm going to airbrush the whole bay black, before panting it with the correct color Canopy and winshield airbrushed with a mix of Italeri Flat Black and Lifecolor Dark Gull Gey, thinned with Future, inside and out rear view mirrors brush painted silver I then glued in the printed acetate for the two windshield gauges adding some Dark Gull Grey drybrush to the framing. Same for the canopy removing the masking form inside the clear parts showed that I need another black coat on the outer surface, but also that there has been paint creeping underneath the masking tape. I removed it with a toothpick for the inner surface and brushed on a thin Aqua Gloss coat - I'll have to do the same for the outer part, when the time comes ... That's it for the day, comments welcome as ever. Ciao
    4 points
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