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Hello,Friends - Here are my 'Voodoo' and 'Delta Dagger' builds of the Monogram kits.Although raised detail throughout,I find the quality quite exquisite and wished to retain as much of this as possible as a tribute to their manufacture.Finished in Enamel Paints and Varnish wih original kit Decals.I have found these to be the most enjoyable kits I've built so far and hope you may enjoy viewing them again.(Their photos disappeared some time ago as a result of the 'PB' issue). 😉👍 All the very best,Paul.

Airfix 1/72 Jet Provost T3A of No.1 Flying School RAF Linton-On-Ouse 1984 This is my recent entry in the Made in GB GB II. I fancied a quick and easy build after completing a few longer builds. The kit went together well and has enough detail OOB for 1/72. Thanks for looking and please leave any comments or questions you have!

Completed the old 1/24 Airfix Little Nellie Wallis Autogyro. Blog review here: https://miksmodelkits.wordpress.com/2017/09/13/airfix-wallis-autogyro-james-bonds-little-nellie/ Youtube review and build here with more detail pics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-j3l8McmxM&list=PLoJWYG0njom-5OGxASTZqWLjQu3B_7D4g ln1web by mike michael michaels, on Flickr lnnp2web by mike michael michaels, on Flickr

Sorry about the mess in placing incorrectly in Armour. But here goes again. A pot of time getting info for the conversion. For those expert in Chinook apologies and anything which should have been removed. Laurie http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/7hwjzs.jpg

OK, seam sorted, now ready for transfers: Seamless? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

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Hello guys, this is one of my first kit in 1:35, Tiger 1 with white camo

Nae bother Ced. Steve, Jaime, my thanks for those sentiments. The problem with it is, every time I look at the manuals I find a new bit of detail jumping into view. I have to cease this fractal process at a certain point if I'm to avoid any embarrassing 'Well, I got as far as finishing the cockpit' postings by January.... I've no doubt that's the case TT. Truth is I'm feeling just too damn lazy now this evening to go hunting through the manual... More etch scrap to follow below in homage to Steptoe & Son, which I've been listening to on the radio the last few evenings and marvelling at the depth of the writing involved. There's a UK comedy channel I sometimes listen to via the TuneIn app with the cans on that plays back-to-back episodes of that and things like I'm Sorry I Haven't a Clue, The Men from the Ministry etc. Mrs. B is periodically startled in the wee hours by me braying like a zebra at a particularly juicy bon mot.... I've made up some forward decking for the nose of the aircraft since we last spoke: The edges had to be shaped inwards at an angle in order to match the thickness and curvature of the fuselage in this part of the aircraft, plus I ran the rivetting tool along the floor, for what it's worth. Here it is glued-on with some scrap plastic reinforcing underneath to buttress the join: You can just about make out in that shot that I've also added to throttle and flap levers to the central IP console. I added the control collumn also, and used some scrap card to build the curved cover at the base which protects the lower control mechanism from the pilot's legs/feet: In addition there were some similar levers (I think something to do with the fuel system) above the door in the rear bulkhead to be added in a likewise fashion: That was a bit fiddly to get right, but nonetheless necessary to complete work on that region: The lozeng-shaped hole next to it is deliberate - there is a control linkage of some kind going back through there and down the length of the aircraft - which I shan't be adding due to it being too fragile a structure to attempt at 1/72: Coming together: Belatedly I realize I haven't done any work on detailing the cockpit walls, so some scratchery forthcoming on that soon. Tony

A Ford Trimotor that lost two engines. An Airfix 1/72 conversion. I had very fun building it and that is probably why I managed to finish it before it managed to die as many of my project do. It does look a little different to the standard Trimotor. Notes from the build here:

Kit manufacture: Hasegawa N° 00537 Scale: 1/72 Type: S-3B Viking Extras used: None OOB Paints and colours used: Gunze Aquous H308, H337 Other info: So I've been building this in the background and thought I'd share it for some feedback. The kit is pleasant but shows it's age with some flash and a few fit issues. I also managed to make myself some problems but in the end I think it look the part. I scratch build the refuelling pod from a fuel tank and a refuelling pod from a Revell Tornado, it isn't accurate but good enough for me. Also I have never tried to weather a raised panel line kit so thought I'd just go with some Flory Dark Dirt, it has done the trick. Anyway enough waffle so here is the finished kit: 1/72 Hasegawa S-3B Viking by Neal, on Flickr 1/72 Hasegawa S-3B Viking by Neal, on Flickr 1/72 Hasegawa S-3B Viking by Neal, on Flickr

A 38 Group Stirling Mk IV has crossed the Lower Rhine at 500 feet, tracking roughly north into the shrinking Oosterbeek perimeter. Overflying the Hartenstein Hotel, strop guard down, it is about to unload supply panniers onto the small triangular piece of open ground on the north side of the Utrechtseweg, west of the Stationsweg, (the intersection of which formed the MDS Crossroads). The Stirling, LJ 923, carrying the codes 5T E, is from 196 Squadron ( a code common with and perhaps an aircraft originating from 299 Squadron). This will be its last visit to the Oosterbeek area. Henry Hoysted, RAAF, is the pilot. This crew has already been to Arnhem at least three times since 17 September. Hoysted piloted Stirlings towing Horsa gliders on the opening days of Tonga, Market Garden and Varsity. On each occasion, he towed the same glider pilot. Henry Hoysted's ' personal ' Stirling was LJ 502 ZO-D ' Dog ' , a photograph of which appears below. Hoysted is seen holding onto the antenna, just prior to Tonga . The operations tally is in the form of daggers for SOE work and bombs for bombing sorties. The nose art is an irreverent play on the RAF motto. This Stirling was damaged by flak in a subsequent re-supply sortie to the perimeter. The D + 6 sortie Stirling depicted at top was a replacement aircraft. A back story to my not-so-good modelling efforts. Michael

Brief update, showing what I have been up to: 1. Drilling the lightening holes in the frame behind the seat. Holes at the bottom of this shot mostly drilled; top of shot only marked out. Not the neatest job in the world, but it will look fine once painted and in position, especially seen through a closed canopy (which is my plan with the Mk.46). Also note replacement seat frame (from spares box - I think originally from an Eduard Spit XVI, judging by colour of plastic; this is much more delicate than Airfix's somewhat agricultural equivalent). There was a horrible ejector pin mark just under the head rest, now filled (but invisible because it's over-exposed). 2. The cuts to the port fuselage half to prepare it for the replacement cowling top; lots of careful sanding to get it as precise as possible: 3. Said replacement cowling held in place to show fit - pretty happy with that (the apparent overhang on the top of the fuselage is in fact because I was not quite holding it straight, though I'll really only know for sure once both halves done): I am enjoying this kit enough to be seriously considering acquiring a second one, for eventual building as a folded Mk.47. More soon. Very happy with progress. Crisp

OK, first hurdle passed; the new cowling fits really nicely: More soon Crisp

But, back to the day job huh I used the thinnest paper I could find to lay some Vallejo 70974 Green Sky on and cut it in a strip wide enough for the roof windows(ish) Happened to be a receipt from Poundland I used a piece without printing on, when cut I took a ten inch half round... well you know the rest, and using the diagonal unseconded cuts I scored lines to represent the folded strips of sun shield (files have two sets of opposite cuts to enable filing in right or left handed mode although they generally cut easier for 'righties') This strip was cut into two pieces for inside the roof Twenty or thirty years ago I'd have rigged up the wires the shields hang from but that is out of my league nowadays so I just stuck the concertinaed paper up in the roof I think only YOU will know, should be OK The creases show on the piece of spare paper shown here This evening I have been adding some of the seventy trillion little white and yellow transfers on the Modeldecal sheet Some I say, some The instructions do not state which ones serve for which of the choices on the sheet so I am doing it judiciously I judge which ones to use This and are about all I feel like sticking on I did add one piece of my generic 'Black spaces behind metal mesh' decalcomanie to the tail pylon I might consider talking off the original upper one and adding more of this type, looks better doesnt it Won't take long to take care of that minor glitch-up Does the rotor head stuff I put in show in this shot? Ye e e e s you can see the oil pipes and the bodies of the dampers so I will call that a win, I am building the swash plate assembly with three links to go in and adding tail rotor details including the compensator type things at the back of the rotor gear Also been casting wheels for the Gannet and the Buccaneer and the casting at the Bucc's tail that pushes and pulls the airbrake I will get them out of the mould tomorrow OK that is it for tonight, ciao

Hello guys, my first post on your forum My last work, BA-3 armourd car from Hobby Boss

Thanks Simon PVA? Aha, I have Gator's Grip which is very like that. Thanks! Thanks Giorgio At one point I did consider ripping the transfers off but then I considered what I'd have to do afterwards. The Gator's Grip worked which is just as well 'cos I don't know how I'd have replicated the serials: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Not perfect (like a lot of the kit) but good enough for the ceiling. Thanks P Nothing like my Aunties then... Thanks Tony - the Tante (oooh, get me) should prove interesting indeed. Hopefully not arresting though, at least not for me! Thanks Keith I'm sure you're right and the lines are positions for the beaching gear. John I'm not sure about the detailing on the Cat - I'll cross that chicken when I've counted my baskets Thanks PC Like Tony, I felt your emotion! Like the rudder transfers the lower bits are good enough for the ceiling: I've purposely taken the worse angle shot. From most angles it's OK, especially if you squint. So, here we are: Something missing (apart from the prop and canopy)... I know, wash! Just a bit but, as we all know from Johnny's builds, it makes all the difference (as long as it comes off!). I used one of my French Supermarket brushes for that. Lovely soft hair. Reminded me of a French Girlfriend I had in my teens.... .... .. .

This is a project that lasted quite long, intermittently and was my first contact with the new molds of Airfix. The general impression is good, as the model is huge, considering the scale, with clean parts, in light gray plastic, without annoying signs, clear transparent parts and thin wellprinted decals. The whole construction was completely Out Of the Box with the only addition of the Fabric seat belts of Eduard on the seats, an unnecessary addition, hardly distinguished, just wanted to try it. It is almost as though decals, hard to fold, I don't think there is reason to use them at least in 1/72 and in close or greenhouse canopies bomber. And once that we talk about seat belts, last experimenting with the green stuff, which by adding photo etched buckles, gives amazing results. The fit in large pieces is too good and most buckle up seamlessly, except for the transparent "greenhouse" in the space of the cockpit that on the right side leaves a step, which needs persistent rubbing and attention to fix. The smaller pieces are somewhat abstract castings but at such a great model probably passed unnoticed. However, the barrels of rear machine guns were replaced by resin aftermarkets. One of the drawbacks is the bomb hatches which in order to glued open must cut the pieces respectively. They suffer from poor application and do even worse things, no soldering connectors. The painting was made with mixes of colors of Tamiyia, which unfortunately were lost as I kept them in another file which accidentally deleted. Fading was homogenized with filters giving an almost uniform wear. The fabric wing surfaces (which admittedly is a bit imprecise) were highlighted with light oils and the resulting image was supplemented with panel line wash of tamiya and mig. Smoke trails on the engines completed the whole picture.

Steve why do you keep posting photos of your metal rule? And DO give that mat a brush old boy, it's got specks of dust on it. What? They're vortex generators? Oh good grief man, tiny isn't the word for it... Now I know us kit bashers shouldn't try to drag you proper modellers down to our level BUT why don't you try 'dry fitting' some of those bent ones to some flat plastic to see how the glue effects the, er, effect and how perspective might help overcome any slight difference in size? We all need a sense of perspective

I can't help thinking that hendie was better off in ignorance of all things Mogg. You've done him no favours there Crisp More sublime thinking Tom. Ably seconded (albeit from perhaps questionable motives) by Ced. As it happens I have an old Historex Agents hexagonal punch and die set which I've never hitherto found a use for. To be frank I bought it by mistake donkey's years ago at Telford when I picked it up thinking it was a circular punch and die set I put it in a drawer and pretended the whole episode never happened...... Anyways I had a play: And one of the punches is just about the perfect size: I knocked up a quick jig to help me accurately (and reproducibly) cut the hexagonal shape Thus: This shape then needs cutting in half to produce either two VGs (or One VG if both the vertical and horizontal element are reproduced). So the process would involve three stages (These bu**ers are tiny): Here are a few test VGs made using this method. Out of interest I also had a go at folding a punched hexagonal into an 'L' shape to see if that was a possibility. It worked Ok. I should say that I've also tried trimming some VGs from 0.1mm plastic card cut into 0.5mm strips and using simple jigs to cut the strips to the correct length and trapezium shapes. BUT: I have to say that none of the methods I've tried so far convince me they will work adequately. I was optimistic that using the punch and does set - and then some jigs to help me cut the VGs to shape - would enable me to accurately produce identical shaped and sized VGs. And if you look again at the photo of the test results above they're not bad. But that's it - not bad. I don't think they'd look any where near neat or identical enough fixed eight-in-a-row on the wings of the Hawks The individual pieces are so darned small that even using a jig as a cutting guide there is a noticeable variation in shape and size. It's much more successful using the next size up hexagonal punch. But unfortunately way over scale...... The variation was greater trying to cut the VGs from strip plastic as opposed to the hexagonal punches (that really was a genius thought Tom). I haven't yet had the will to see if it's possible to accurately and reproducibly cut thin brass to such a small size........but I'm not optimistic. I shall muse on the problem for a bit and see if it prompts me to have a bash at home brew PE following the @Cheshiretaurus guide. In the meantime I shall put the problem to one side for now and get back to the coamings and cockpits (after all - there are no problems - only opportunities ) Steve

This is my latest completed model: No.3 for 2017 which is more than the total I’ve completed in the last 11 years (I’m not kidding!). It’s BBR’s 1/43 resin kit of the #36 Doran Enterprises Ferrari 333SP (Chassis 026 of 40 made) which competed in the 1999 Sebring 12 hours but failed to finish. It was driven by Tommy Kendall, Jim Matthews and Mark Dismore; Stefan Johansson was listed to drive the car but didn’t put in any laps. It’s built OOB apart from a few tweaks to rectify minor inaccuracies (mirrors were moved to the roll hoop struts rather than being placed on the bodywork as directed in the instructions & minor decal placement changes were made to reflect the actual car). Strangely BBR also make a white metal kit of the 333SP (rather than resin), also in 1/43 but of a later version. I did consider keeping it in plain livery (top pic) because it’s just such a damn pretty car. In fact many 333SP’s wear plain red livery and never got to race because they were bought by collectors. I recall that Ferrari had to build a bunch more so that the race teams could actually get cars on track. Hope this keeps the sportscar fans happy while we’re waiting for Pascal’s 1/18 masterpiece! I have a few other BBR kits to do (Audi R8C next up), but hopefully it won't take another 11 years to finish that...

Hello All, This is the finished article that my son has been working on for the past week or so. It's his first ever model aircraft, having only painted a couple of wargaming archers before in 1/56. I tried to help him with bits he was too nervous to attempt, such as the canopy and the lines in between colours, but most of it is his own handiwork, following instructions and guidance from me on the sidelines. Thanks to everybody who has followed the progress and given him such a massive amount of support during the build! Here's the build thread:

Hi fellow modellers, this is one of my latest additions for the upcoming Valiant Wings title AIR WAR OVER ITALY, the Special Hobby kit built with some updates in the markings of the Aviazione Cobelligerante Italiana. Cheers Libor

Hi, Here is my completed Hasegawa Bf109 G6. Its built from the excellent 1/48 kit. I started this for the 109 GB but finished it last week. The model depicts an Aircraft of I./JG 27. In the Squadron Signal In action BF109 part 2 there is a nice Don Greer illustration of this Aircraft which I based my build on. illustration is based on an Image of Hauptmann Diethelm V Eichel- Streiber's Aircraft who was Commander of I./JG 27 in September 1944. This image appears in Monograms painting guide to german aircraft (pg 27). Anyhow... The build was very nice and I used a set of eduard steel seatbelts in the cockpit and replaced the kit MG151 barrels with brass tube with some heat shrink for the barrel dust covers. I adeed a bit of wire in the cockpit for the fuel line.. The rest is OOB. The Hasegawa G6 is a nice kit with a good few options in the box but you have to sort the seam out on the cowling side. Often you see that left in on builds... I painted the model in Mr Colour lacquers free handing the mottle and I used some card masks to help with the main camo. Decals are a mixture of Hasegawa and Tamiya I used Mr Softer / Setter on them and they were fine.. I think the Hasegawa kit can still give the new Eduard offering a run for its money. Anyhow here are a few photos... Photos were taken with an old Canon 5D with a 25-105L series lens I use a shoot through umbrella with speed light and a fixed output Softbox with daylight corrected bulbs background is a piece of semi reflective white card. Hope you like em.. Cheers Plasto

To b 100% honest, I am no expert on the Wessex, but I do love the machine! Saw a number close up (not in museums!) on a multitude of occasions and have had Royal Marines fast rope out of them over my head a couple of times. I have built a few of Italeri's kits, and I have their 48th scale one in the stash. I know Fly's kit isn't perfect, but it is a large scale Wessex, and I am having a lot of fun building it. It will not be a perfect representation of the machine, but it will be a 32nd scale Wessex sitting on my shelf, next to my 32nd scale RAF Phantom! I am very grateful to all of you who know the thing inside and out for all you observations advice and support. Many thanks, Angelo.

Thanks Adrian - the Cat will get built for the GB but I think the Junkers gets first place so it's now on the bench. Also, as Bill says, you are wicked! Thanks Trevor - 'Tante Ju' will be next, but what's with all this "Tante" stuff? Something to do with aunties I guess... Thanks Bill Thanks for the warning about the Cat - I'll be building wheels up as usual; do I still need a replacement u/c? Nice story about your Uncle. I bet 'making tea' was one of those humble statements eh? Feeling a bit less wobbly this morning so transfers. Decals. Whatever you call them, they're sometimes a pain. This one looks easy: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I've cut out the ones I need to use (obviously), checked the reference shots for #6 (I think it's supposed to be panel lines so I've left them off, yuk) and checked there are no walkways or red dots. The rudder/fin flashes are in two parts with a cutout in the smaller one, obviously for the tailplane: I like to cut out and arrange the transfers for each side and then do one side at a time. Look at that photo again. The one with the cutout is under the rudder flash for the other side. Spotted that! What I didn't spot or even consider is that the cutout, er, isn't: Rats. Of course proper modellers would have cut away as much of the carrier film as they could before trying to apply them. So you now know why I didn't. Chop off the cutout carrier and apply. They're too big: After a lot of cursing and cutting this is the best I could get: Now doused in MicroSol and fingers crossed. Should have painted them? Yeah, right, with hindsight but really this kit isn't THAT good (said the bad workman). The other problem was the serial going over the cooling fins: Poked and prodded, they've also been doused in MicroSol and I have Daco strong if that doesn't work. The #7s are also 'interesting' - just cut the carrier film off, OK, AND note that some of them have a shorter leg so they fit the float curve. Don't ask me which ones, they got moved around so much I couldn't tell you. Four transfers, four problems. Easy? Oh, the irony. I'm now 'looking forward' to getting the rudder flash over the balance weight. A ha ha ha. Apart from that Mrs Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?

Okay, normally I would follow these discussions quietly in the background, but, being a quiet day at work, and seeing the comments surrounding the new kit from Airfix, I think I'll throw my hat into the ring. (And no doubt erk some people along the way. I mean no offense and offer my apologies in advance). I can't help but feel that Airfix are unfairly held to standards that other kitmakers are not, for a minor area on a kit where model making is actually required. I've seen numerous build logs of other kit brands where the kit has had all sorts of fit issues etc and the author has filled, filed and fought his/her way to the finish, commented how great the kit was, then in the next breath will deride anything Airfix because of some minor quibble... For anyone not content with needing to scrape a little bit of plastic to get an ideal fit, can I suggest to attempt building some of the maritime subjects from a certain far eastern manufacture? The kits I have built from them have fought me every step of the way (fit issues, warped parts, poor tool making-none of which I have experienced in any major way from the "new" Airfix kits), and to take a break and get back my mojo I retreat to the joy and safety of Airfix kits which I know will be fun and easy to build and restore my mojo before delving back into the depths of what passes for a kit from this other maker. I have resolved not to purchase any more kits from this certain far eastern manufacture, even though they offer the most kits to satisfy my interest in maritime subjects. Instead I will only by kits from them after thorough inspections of the box contents and positive reviews online but it will be a rare thing indeed. However I have no such reservations purchasing Airfix kits. And yes I will be purchasing the new Me262 and from what I've seen I'll enjoy every moment of it Just my 2cents.

Well that's finished the Yak. A very enjoyable build, despite the engine casing's fit issue, but that was easily sorted out, so don't let that put you off.Aftermarket used was a pair of NeOmega resin seats. Painted with Vallejo Metal Colours, and Akan acrylics.Weathered with UMP wash, and Tamiya's Weathering Master System.Ian G-38 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-39 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-40 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-41 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-42 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-43 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-44 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-45 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-46 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-47 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-48 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-49 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-50 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-51 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-52 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-53 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-54 by ian gaskell, on FlickrIan G-55 by ian gaskell, on Flickr

Hello All, I recently tried and failed to build the old Airfix Phantom in 24 elapsed hours here in the Blitzbuild 2017 GB. I've only just managed to get back to the modelling bench for the first time since then (in the UK for a whole day, before travelling out tomorrow), and so obviously the first thing that needs doing is to undo some of my previous work! The intakes and the fuselage had a gentle curve down to the join, so I've sanded the whole area flatter to make the join less conspicuous. It's progress, right?? Thanks for looking, Adrian

Hi folks! Just off the bench and into the moody evening sunshine is my Fallout inspired take on Sarissa Precicion's 28mm (1/56) Residential Trailer. A mixed media (MDF, Card, acrylic sheet). Base painted in acrylics and weathered and finished with oils and pigment powders. As usual, there's a step by step build log with loads more pictures over on my blog: http://www.richbuilds.com/articles/build-review-sarissa-precisions-residential-trailer-28mm-mdf-wargames-terrain/

I spent half my childhood in the shadow of arrivals and departures from Norton AFB. The sight and sounds of C-141s and the occasional C-5 was ever present. Up until 1994. So this is the Roden kit, built OOB, but in the Euro I scheme that I would see at airshows and around my house in Redlands. So I ponied up the $131 for this kit because of nostalgia. However, that's not a good value for this kit. It was plagued with flash on most parts. All the major parts, wings, fuselage, tail, engine nacelles all had flash on them. All 28, yea, 28 wheels were TWO PIECES! What deranged designer decided this? The decals were mediocre and only had one version. For a 21st century kit of this price point, I really expected more. Three star kit ⭐️⭐️⭐️ However, the old C-5s I knew as a kid live in this representation, and I'm happy.

Hi All, I spent almost 2+ months putting a little 1/72 scale Tamiya Fw-190 kit together pretty much out of the box and this is all I have to show for it.... Airbrushed with Gunze RLM shades, weathered with oil paints, enamel panel line washes, dry pigments and oil from my sweaty fingers... Not much done outside the box, I added some Eduard generic Luftwaffe seatbelts, drilled out the gun barrels, added some brake lines and an antenna wire. Check out the WIP thread, which honestly isn't amazingly helpful or informative but has some pretty pictures of the beautifully detailed but hidden Tamiya cockpit at least. Enjoy!

You're a bit of a wicked s*d Adrian, there's far worser things about the Airfix Cat, much as I love it, than the canopy fit Nothing like an undercarriage sprung to mind at once Engine/wing/cockpit location interface even more But it can all work out in the end if you get some of John A's Twin Wasps Oh yes and two tons of Liquid Gravity

Despite my model is not completely over, I couldn't wait more to take these photos. Anyway, the last step I have to do won't change very much the result. Furthermore, I have now cut my 34,5 cm cardboard so my model is now ready to be exposed. I won't have enough time today to do the final step, so I will do it tomorrow. I would like to ask a pro photographer to make photos of my build, as Hannes did for his Mef. I am gonna think about that... P.S: did you notice how the red is different following the cardboard used? On a beige cardboard, the red is darker, on a black one, it is lighter.

Thanks Phil, I think Although there are two other Sunderlands one isn't 'my scale' and Simon's is a Mk I so I could justify another. You can never have too many Sund... oh no wait, that's not right is it? As far as being 'fun' dealing with the skin, that's just wicked Thanks PC - you get 'im mate! Thanks TT - I think those pictures have endeared me to the Junkers, although I'll stick to the kit scheme I think as it fits my WWII Europe theme. I'm also not quite mojo'd up enough for the attention the Sunderland deserves so Ju52 it is! (Any suggestions that this vote was rigged will be met with the usual excuse 'the Russians hacked me' )

You could always do a passenger one Ced: Brazil; Norway: Finland; Sweden; That's all the public domain ones I can find for now; but there are more airlines and countries. I can't find a British floatplane Ju-52, but there may have been one. Here's a British wheely one. And an Icelandic one: Best regards TonyT

As (self-elected) leader of the Britmodeller Society of American Pals, it's my sad duty to inform you that this is treason.

Fully assembled prior to decals and (most) weathering: And disassembled again for weathering and clearcoating (some decals applied at this point):

Here is my Airfix A300 with a Bra.Z nose and home made decals. Another of my 'planes I remember from Heathrow around 1980'. The Airfix kit is fairly accurate and could be built OOB and still look very good, however I've used the replacement nose available from Bra.Z as I feel it really captures the Airbus widebody family nose shape 100%. The only other changes I've made are to move the tail bumper to a more correct position and scratch build the intakes on the underside of the fuselage between the wings. The cheatlines have been painted as has the tail with the logo printed on white decal paper and doubled up. Titles, names, coroguard etc were all home printed too except for the small logos on the engines and below the flightdeck windows which I found in my spares box. Stabiliser rubbing plates are from the 26 A300 detail decal sheet as are the door handles/details. Passenger and flightdeck windows are from Werner at Authentic Airliners. I've depicted D-AIAA Garmisch Partenkirchen as a fairly new aircraft and so have only lightly weathered the wings. Overall I'm pleased with this model as it was my first attempt at designing and printing my own decals and it seems to have turned out alright. Hope you like it and thanks for looking! Cheers, Ian

Hello, Here's my just finished 1/72 Revell Gannet AS.4 in Marineflieger markings. I decided to do it as UA+110, which is preserved these days as UA+106 at the Luftwaffe museum at Gatow near Berlin. Bit of a mixed kit, some nice details, and some crappy fit, especially around the cockpit and clear parts. The tail hook snapped into 3 pieces, and one of the canopies has broken in two on the sprue. Painted with Humbrol enamels. I hope you like it. Thanks for looking, Pete

Here is my interpretation of the Sopwith Triplane, my first in this scale. I doff my hat to Ian, aka @limeypilot who's own WIP gave me a lot of pointers and inspiration so that I can complete this bird. The cockpit was all but scratch-built, kit MG replaced with a Miniworld Vickers MG...very nice. Fuselage tail lengthened, kit axle replaced with a scratch-built variant. Underside painted with Humbrol Linen enamel, I thought was too yellow, so I'll change that for the future. Topside was painted using Tamiya Khaki Drab, a good colour I think for a PC10 finish. Kit decals. The tiniest of PE control horns were fitted and rigged with mono filament fishing line. Overall, I'm pleased with the result and have learnt a lot and hopefully a later version of the Triplane will be done in the future. Comments welcome. Thanks for looking. Stuart

As if they didn't already have enough to answer for.

OK folks , thanks for the comments. A little more done over the days. All the port holes have been masked , ready for fitting. There are 5 more of the buggers but they are fitted when the fuselage is joined. Ced, you asked what glue I am going to use, well here is a pic. Leaving them aside for a while, I decided to attack the floors and walls of the beast. The front bits. The back bits. And a quick cheeky fit of the back bits into the fuselage. All looks good on the dry fits, so now down to attack the cockpit I suppose. All comments welcome. Simon.

This tiny metallic wire running between the frame reinforcement and a piece that looks oval on the enlargement of our photo 2 VHR, will be the final touch of this amazing, huge work that this build will have been for me, definitely up to now the most ambitious of all my model making work. Obviously not perfect, it represents however certainly, and waiting others to do better, the best replica of the last Fiat running in a G.P. It was the 4/09/1927, 90 years ago, on the Monza circuit. At the time of writing these lines, I feel moved. So many hours spent on the build, the photos and labels, and of course on the Britmodeller thread, without which, thanks to all of you, I would never have built such an accurate model. I have improved my technique of model making, my english, and I have learnt to be very humble, the truth is so difficult to get. All the best to all the "dream team"! Olivier

All decals added Canopy masks come off after a matte coat Graffiti decals on the bombs Weathered exhausts Weathered tires, brake lines, gear doors

The line between mojo-restoration and displacement stash building is so blurred as to be invisible, methinks! The Generally Accepted Wisdom on the Interwebs (GAWotI) is that the Airfix 45/6 is an excellent kit, especially given its age - but that (like any kit) it has a few weaknesses; since I am no Spit-/Sea-fire expert, I have simply accepted the GAWotI. The areas that could be improved are said to be: - the shape of the upper cowling and chin oil cooler intake (plus in both cases the need to hide a difficult seam - or seams, plural, in the cowling case; I think sanding the central join would be OK, but the Griffon "bulges" less easy, and I believe it is the bulges that are the wrong shape); - the shape of the propellor blades (not chunky enough - and there is certainly a significant visible difference when resin compared to original); and - though Airfix provide an open canopy option, the rear canopy is too narrow to look right in the open position - it sits too high, and the slope of the reverse edge of the windscreen is said to be wrong. The replacement cowling was already with the kit when I acquired it; I have since bought a resin chin intake, replacement blades, and vac form canopy… …but the vac form canopy turns out to be only the FR47 (rounded "PR" windscreen, as opposed to the more familiar angular job on the 46), so I will probably run with a closed canopy on this model, so as to keep it relatively simple. I have not yet completely ruled out acquiring a set of resin control surfaces; I generally think that aircraft with rigidly central rudders, ailerons and (especially) elevators tend to look unrealistically "wooden" - I will make a decision when I see how the 46 looks when it starts to come together. The available Aires cockpit, engine set, gun bays etc.... definitely not for this build! Edit: here's a comparison shot. I think you can see the blade differences pretty clearly; Barracudacast yellow resin - Airfix grey plastic. The bulge is more subtle (and/or difficult to photograph), but you can see the difference with the naked eye; Quickboost resin top, Airfix plastic below.

Thanks very much, everyone! It was a lot of fun to build together. Leo is now patiently (ish) waiting for his arrow red paint to arrive for his Hawk. In terms of the bits I did, during the build I ran a dry paintbrush over where Leo needed to apply glue so he could copy me but other than that, he clipped the parts off the sprues and filed them all down - except the really thin parts which I did. I painted some guide lines on for the camouflage, but he then painted the two coats on top of these leaving me to just do some neatening for him at the end. The only bits I painted alone were the canopy and the tail wheel. The smoke stains on the lower wings were done by blobbing a bit of dark ink and then scrapping a line straight backwards with a cotton bud, which again Leo did by himself after a quick demo. The decals were largely a two person job with us taking it in turns to either hold the decal paper or position the decal, but Leo did all of the micro-sol coats on top of the decals whilst I did the varnishing. So, after all that, I hope I got the balance right for helping him along without crowbarring my way in to hijack his project! He certainly seems very happy and is regularly ambushing visitors to the house to insist they come and inspect the Hurricane, so as long as he's happy then it's a job well done!

Well, not much progress on any front lately, as the car got a flat tire, I got a cold, and Mrs P got a fever. The tire was easiest to fix, and I suppose that after a week or so in the death-grip of Man-flu, I'll survive, but it's really maladministration bordering on the criminal for the Mrs P's employers (she's a Montessori teacher) to have rejected her request to be put on staff duty instead of working with a classroom at the start of the school year. Every year, she gets some fresh new strain of the Peruvian Death Flu from these germ-encrusted goblins, and every year, nothing is efficacious against it: not flu shots, not Vitamin C, not a saint's knucklebone. Nothing. It's maddening! I sawed off the rudder (actually I used a Tamiya scribing tool) so I could use the neato resin rudder from Arma: I also painted the seatbelts on the etch fret: And applied some filler over my repairs on the starboard nose. More will need doing there, I think.

Dewoitine D,520, Algeria, Jack Canary Collection https://www.flickr.com/photos/sdasmarchives/sets/72157633279699475/with/8663871088/ No Lorraine Crosses but likely a very similar colour there

Snap-fit kit, somehow still manage to get a gluey thumbprint in the canopy. (Throwing stones from a glass American house here.) Ced, it's got to be the Sunderland. Huge. Friendly-looking. British. Three qualities one wants in both a flying boat and most baked goods.

The Good Doctor has diagnosed yet another Britmodeller member with ANTSCADS Airfix New Tool Stash Compulsive Acquirement Disorder Syndrome Just bought eight of the new tool Me 262 myself what can I say except that I am an Airfix addict...