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  1. Grumman A-6 Intruder The Grumman A-6 Intruder was an American, twin jet-engine, mid-wing all-weather attack aircraft built by Grumman Aerospace. In service with the United States Navy and Marine Corps between 1963 and 1997, the Intruder was designed as an all-weather medium attack aircraft to replace the piston-engined Douglas A-1 Skyraider. As the A-6E was slated for retirement, its precision strike mission was taken over by the Grumman F-14 Tomcat equipped with a LANTIRN pod. From the A-6, a specialized electronic warfare derivative, the EA-6, was developed. Following the good showing of the propeller-driven Skyraider in the Korean War, the United States Navy issued preliminary requirements in 1955 for an all-weather carrier-based attack aircraft. The U.S. Navy published an operational requirement document for it in October 1956. It released a request for proposals (RFP) in February 1957.Proposals were submitted by Bell, Boeing, Douglas, Grumman, Lockheed, Martin, North American, and Vought.Following evaluation of the bids, the U.S. Navy announced the selection of Grumman on 2 January 1958. The company was awarded a contract for the development of the A2F-1 in February 1958.The A-6's design team was led by Lawrence Mead, Jr. He later played a lead role in the design of the Grumman F-14 Tomcat and the Lunar Excursion Module. The first prototype YA2F-1, lacking radar and the navigational and attack avionics, made the Intruder's first flight on 19 April 1960, with the second prototype flying on 28 July 1960. In general, development flying went well,[with the major problem encountered being handling problems associated with the aircraft's air brakes mounted on the rear fuselage. In an attempt to solve this, the third prototype had its horizontal tailplane moved rearwards by 16 inches (41 cm), but this did not completely solve the handling problems, which were resolved by fitting split-hinged speed-brakes on the aircraft's wing-tips. Early production aircraft were fitted with both the fuselage and wingtip air brakes, although the fuselage-mounted items were soon bolted shut, and were removed from later aircraft. This is the trumpeter 1/32 sauce kit, and apart from a few issues a dream to build, the cockpit had the Eduard PE added, with a few other bits of Eduard to enhance the other bland items. All the figures are from Reedoak ( amazing figures) and the base is scratch built, using flight path tie downs. all painted using a combination of Mr Hobby, Tamiyia, and Vallejo air
    27 points
  2. It's all I seem to assemble lately. Probably the last for a while because this one made it clear it was happier left alone in its box. On that note, you will notice the canopy appears not to fit properly. That's because it doesn't. It was slightly short shot on one of the arms and is warped, splayed like it's been sat on. I tried rectifying that without success so it'll have to do. Hasegawa 1/48, 95% from the box. I added seatbelts to the kits seats and used TwoBobs decals. Painted with Tamiya, Mr Colour, Humbrol and Revell acrylics. Weathered with my usual mix of pound shop eye shadows. Finding enough reference pictures of this aircraft at a single point in its life proved difficult. There are a fair few pics around but never more than a couple from any one point in time. I decided therefore to take what I liked from each era and try to apply it to my model. I'm not sure on the travel/ACMI pod combo either, but I wanted something under the wings. Anyway, on to the pictures. Some family pics with my previous build: Thanks for stopping by. Comments, constructive crits and advice on how to fix that canopy welcome!
    25 points
  3. Latest of the bench is the Tamiya Swordfish in the markings of 821 NAS HMS Ark Royal summer 1939 OOTB with the Tamiya etch set and decals from Model Alliance Hope you like ...please feel free to comment etc. Thanks Dick
    25 points
  4. This is a nice little kit. The Belgian markings offer a nice change of pace to RAF markings and the decals settle down nicely under some Mr Mark decal fluid. I had read of some issues fitting the fuselage to the wing, but some clamping solved any problem there and the fit is actually quite good. I've been buying quite a few of these new Airfix kits and I'm quite pleased with them.
    21 points
  5. Starting this model I had great fears, but generally there was no tragedy. It is similar like czech short run :)). Camo - not confirmed- Lt Zuhair Dawood, 93rd IAF squadron - attributed to shooting down January 17, 1991 during the first Gulf War, US F-18 Hornet. The Iraqis dont boast too much, and the Americans say that the F-18 was hit by ground AA rocket. I need make Iraqi Foxbat, so why not paint the number (25211 side number - hand painted by waterproof marker on transparent decals). There were some add-ons to the model: - Resin correction of the nose - Barracuda - resin short nozzles - Barracuda - Zoom into the cabin, Eduard PE for the exterior - resin R-40 with PlusModel - pitot - Master - Resin wheels - Barracuda - some handmade wires and FOD. I invite you
    19 points
  6. Hi everyone. Here are a few pics of the 1/72 Sword F3D-2 Sky knight I just finished up this afternoon. The kit builds up nice except you will have to address the canopy fit issue by sanding the lower surface where it meets the fuse, its slightly larger than it should be. You will have to weigh down the nose area so its not a tail dragger as well. Other than that its a very nice kit to build. Hope you like the way it turned out. DSC00078 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00079 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00080 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00081 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00082 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00084 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00088 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00092 by Steve Cook, on Flickr DSC00093 by Steve Cook, on Flickr
    16 points
  7. Okey-dokey...here it is. This was the first build I have documented and although it is fun and very instructive/inspiring to watch the build-up of others, I found my experience to be tedious. From now on I will only present for inspection... Curtiss Hawk III, over Siam. I have not added the bombs. I may later. I enjoyed this little model as I enjoy all of Special Hobby's kits. It went together fairly easily, with a bit of challenge here or there--mainly the struts. The decals were lovely and thin and slid off flawlessly. What next you may ask...? I'll have think on it. --John
    15 points
  8. I'm calling this finishedish. I may tinker a bit more but it's basically done.
    14 points
  9. Freighter finally finished using the old Airfix kit, Magna conversion and lots of filler. Main changes are the engines beefed up with new exhaust positions, the Airfix ones are too small and the Magna ones simply wrong. Decals home made. A few pics... Just noticed how silvered the wing decal is, may correct that. Next project Contrail Blackburn Botha and a Bristol Scout.
    13 points
  10. 12 points
  11. Hi everybody, WE progress report: not many pics, as Saturday modelling time went all into testing the camouflage painting on a paint mule. I think I found the right way to reproduce the "eggs" scheme of this C202, but I need to experiment a bit more, so I'll report on that later in the week. My goal for the weekend was to prime the model, but there's been a few drawbacks so it's now almost ready to get primed. Let's see: Wing joint reinforcing plates added on the bottom side too: and riveted: Then, as Eugenio suggested, I worked on the supercharger intake cowling Radiator bits cleaned up and riveted As I said, I had a few drawbacks; while handling the model, I had a few parts coming off, like the windshield , red navigation light , the antenna mast mounting plate, one the fake firewall elements inside the wheel bay ... So the windshield and light were glued back, and I also glued in a small bit of styrene sheet for the antenna mast This was sanded and shaped once in place, and I then drilled a hole in it with a 0.4 mm drill I'll be using a segment of steel wire like this one: I also drilled holes for mounting the external gunsight, one close to the windshield an the other on the engine cowling Some masking done too One last thing I did was to paint the spinner and propeller blades with Model Master Metallizer Steel, using the brush technique: The steel wire you see there comes from a paper clip, and was used to polish the spinner cover That's it for the day, comments welcome Ciao
    12 points
  12. Announcing the arrival of Linhas Aereas de Angola (TAAG) Boeing 777-300er from Luanda : Zvezda's Boeing 777-300er finished off in one of my favourite colour schemes with the help of 26decals. The model was an absolute delight to build in spite of its size - so much so that I've bought another to cut down into a 777-200 at some stage. Engine detail was excellent as can be seen from the head-on and close-up : 26decals lived up to expectations - simple to use, even with what must be one of the longest cheat-lines I've ever assembled. Portuguese titles on the port side : with the English version on starboard : Standard 4 x 4 walk-around : and the obligatory "with something else" shot - Ethiopian Airlines Boeing 720 : Time to head off to the hangar in the loft : Obrigado por olhar (Thanks for looking) mike
    11 points
  13. Hi folks, We've been short on light here as the winter solstice is fast approaching, and short on time as we're in Vale Family Birthday Season until mid-July. I managed to set up my camera at lunchtime and get some pictures of poor Bemular, who's been waiting for a couple of weeks for the privilege. (click for bigger) He seems to be missing a chip from one of the spikes, I don't remember that happening but it's not entirely surprising! For those who missed the WIP thread, the little plane is Bandai's Mecha Colle kit of the Science Patrol VTOL from the original Ultraman series, and the atomic monster is Bemular, from the first episode of said series. I sculpted him from polymer clay (Super Sculpey) over a wire-and-tinfoil armature and fitted glass eyes and LEDs. The "beam" is a plastic tube covered in hot glue, Tamiya Clear Blue and gloss varnish. You can just about see the wires running up to the LED in the hot end, but it's not too obvious. White insulation would've been preferable to black! I really enjoyed this project and I'm itching to do some more sculpting when I can find the time. There are plenty of things that I could've done better so I'm hoping to fix some of that next time around - smoother surfacing and cleaner details would be good, and I need to figure out a better painting technique. Here's the episode where Bemular appears if you want to see what he's supposed to look like in the original bloke-in-a-suit format. Sadly I can't embed the video as the uploader turned that option off. https://youtu.be/4x7_DBzBetM and here's the build thread. Thanks to everyone who joined in there, it was all very useful. And thanks for looking! Cheers, Will
    10 points
  14. Mirage IIIE No.458 / 13-PP EC 2/13 ‘Alpes’, Colmar – Meyerhiem, France, 1967 The 1967 Battle of Britain ‘At Home’ day at RAF Coltishall was very special for me. I remember being there with my Dad and my Uncle and was equipped with a camera at last! This was the first time I had seen a Mirage IIIE amongst all kinds of other amazing aircraft and I was determined to model No.458 / 13-PP or its brother No.415 / 13-PK also on display that day. Well it took 50 years but I finally got there. This is one of the photos I took on that day : Thank you High Planes Models for a kit that captures the shape and details of the Mirage IIIE very nicely. I actually had the Australian IIIO kit but all the parts are there to make a IIIE. To be honest, I was expecting the fit of parts to be much better (the main joints required a lot of filler) and the panel lines are overdone (a tad too Matchbox trench like) but it certainly looks every inch a Mirage. I built the old Heller kit just before it to try out some finishing ideas (see pictures) and it certainly shows its age in comparison. Finish was basically AK Extreme Metal AK481 Polished Aluminium sprayed over a Tamiya grey primer undercoat. Wing panels were a mixture of Xtracolour Dark Sea Grey and Aluminium with some panels highlighted with Daler Rowney ‘Goldfinger’ silver (previously marketed as ‘Rub N Buff’). Most small access panels were painted Light Aircraft Grey. Panel lines were highlighted with a sharp HB pencil before coating the whole thing in Klear before decaling. Decals were mainly Modeldecal from various sheets. National insignia came from an IPMS sheet. I had to cut out the centres of the roundels and use the central blue disc from the next size down roundel to get the proportions right. For some reason early Mirage national insignia didn’t conform to the more usual 1/3 red/white/blue proportions. I tried out some ‘standard’ roundels on my Heller model of No.492 / 3-JN but they didn’t look quite right – see photos.
    10 points
  15. Hi guys, this one I finished a few months back for Airfix Model World and was featured in the June issue of the magazine. It's actually a test shot of the new 1/48th Meteor F.8 Korean War crossed with the resin Brigade Prone Meteor conversion set. In simple terms the kit is superb the resin not so. Full marks to Brigade for producing this but to say it was a struggle is to put it mildly. There were air bubbles galore, mainly underneath where the pour stub had to be removed, almost a canyon once the piece was removed and a few clustered around the underside of the nose and in the nose gear well for good measure. The vac parts while beautifully clear needed a lot of coaxing to get to conform to the shape of the new nose (as the prone canopy has a bubble shape that curves slightly into the fuselage) and the underside observation window was badly skewed to one side and ill-fitting. The forward fuselage interior needed a lot of 'Dremeling' to allow the nose gear to fit and worst of all the whole forward resin nose section was warped to the left, (plus a large depression at the top in front of the windscreen) with the end result that a good deal of the forward fuselage is now Milliput ! Having said that the decals were superb, the prone seat very well rendered and instruction sheet clear and concise...all in all the presentation of the package was exemplary. Now hopefully all this was down to it being a review sample and not representative of the production parts but be warned. The Airfix kit went together with no dramas and was a lot of fun to assemble but what should have been a weekend build turned into a two week marathon......oh well such is life. Lots of extra parts were provided including all the Eduard sets for the cockpit, seat belts, flap and undercarriage bays and the engines. Painting was sploshed on courtesy of several AK Interactive's Xtreme Metal aluminium tones through the trusty Iwata Micron and weathering was provided courtesy of Ammo of MIG and the superb Abteilung 502 oil range. Cheers all and thanks for looking, Meteor Melchie.... (almost always found prone)
    10 points
  16. This is the Tamiya kit. OOTB. A weekend project that was simplicity it self. Ok I'm no figure painter. Hope you like Thanks for looking Dick
    9 points
  17. It was way too hot to sleep last night so I got up and decided to do a bit on this, the best fan in the house is in the Martian cave. Having finally worked out how the winch operator got into this thing, I decided to open up the access doors. This was probably not a wise decision as far too often in Martin world, knowing that a thing can be done, seems to equate with "must be done". Anyway, the doors were cut from the kit's wing centre section panel and a start made on the structure that goes under the rear cockpit floor made. In other news, I fettled the rear fuselage decking so that the profile matches the original more closely. Thanks for looking Martian
    8 points
  18. Finished this 1/72 Airfix Fiat G.50 today. Not sure what year my kit was from, I used a red stripe header bag release. It's entirely box stock with the exception of rescribing entirely with recessed panel lines and utilizing Sky Models aftermarket decals. I used a combination of Life Color, Italeri and Tamiya acrylics for paint. Also an artists oil panel line wash. It's a simple kit that was pretty cleanly molded and didn't require a great deal of fettling or filler to get ready for paint. Can't speak to accuracy, but I think it looks the part pretty well.
    7 points
  19. I don't mind confessing this step nearly bounced me off the project, and even now I am still considering improvements that might make the contriving of spoke wheels a more regular process with a smaller ratio of failures to acceptable outcomes. But I have got enough of the bugs out to present a method which can produce acceptable results. The method is derived from routines presented by the late Harry Woodman, master scratch-builder, whose book is available on-line, and highly recommended.... I don't mind confessing this step nearly bounced me off the project, and even now I am still considering improvements that might make the contriving of spoke wheels a more regular process with a smaller ratio of failures to acceptable outcomes. But I have got enough of the bugs out to present a method which can produce acceptable results. The method is derived from routines presented by the late Harry Woodman, master scratch-builder, whose book is available on-line, and highly recommended.... http://rclibrary.co.uk/files_titles/1216/ScaleModelAircraft_Woodman.pdf But his method was meant for 1/48 scale work, and probably (though this is not clearly stated) employed waxed sewing thread for spokes. Adjustments have to be made for work at a smaller scale, and employing monofilament ('invisible thread') for the spokes. The basics remain the same: two circles pressed together to make a wheel, sandwiching between them a spacer representing the axle, and a pattern of spokes attached separately to each circle and, in their centers, to each end of the spacer/axle. This crowns the spokes out as the unit is assembled. Alignments of various sorts are essential, and have to be got at least more or less right. Alignment of the spokes with one another I refer to as internal alignment: Half the spokes are attached to one end of the spacer/axle, and to the mating surface of one of the wheel halves, and the other half of the spokes to the other end of the spacer/axle and other wheel half's mating surface. When the mating surfaces of the wheel halves are brought together, the spoke patterns must be offset from one another, as this provides an optical illusion of more spokes than there actually are which is essential. Alignment of the wheel halve's mating surfaces with one another I refer to as external alignment. Ideally the things should go together precisely --- a small off-set can be made good, but too great a mis-alignment here will show, particularly at the inside where the spokes sprout, a place where the eye will be drawn. Alignment of the spacer/axle also has to be right, or at least to look right. If it is very crooked, and this can happen even if the external alignment is acceptable, the wheel will not look right. Three factors complicate the matter further. First, there is not a lot of 'give' in the monofilament. It must be very strongly attached, both at the rims and the center, and will only stretch a little. Second, the wheel halves are pretty insubstantial. In 1/72 scale they ought not be more than a half millimeter thick, and there should not be more than two millimeters difference between outer and inner diameters, in fact it really ought to be a bit less. This makes bringing them together against the strain of the monofilament crowning out at the ends of the spacer/axle difficult. Third, when cleaning up, after the wheel halves have been attached, care must be taken to keep sanding sticks and knife edges away from the spokes, and the assembly should be held only by the rims, never by the center. Nothing really can be done on the inside seam at all. It is made no easier by the fact that the wheels for 'El Sonora' are much smaller than standard. Wheels of Great War types generally run about 10mm outside diameter in 1/72 scale (or 15mm in 1/48), but the wheels on 'El Sonora' were only 20" in diameter, scaling out to an outside diameter of 7mm. After a good deal of trial and error, which exposed various problems in succession, I finally reached a point where I have been able to produce this weekend a five reasonably usable wheels for 'El Sonora' (which needs three). Here is what is needed for a wheel: The two wheel halves are obvious, the bits beside them are two thin discs made of small slices of 1mm rod flattened down hard in a smooth-jaw pliers, two thin slices of 1mm rod left as is, and a half millimeter disc of of 1.3mm rod ---these make up the spacer/axle and anchors for the centers of the spokes. The octagonal piece is the weaving jig for the spokes, it is 1mm thick. The square pieces, one of white and one of clear plastic, also 1mm thick, with holes in the center, are assembly tools. The tape is used to tack down the ends of the monofilament line at start and finish. The larger sheet of plastic is one means of providing a background against which the spokes can be seen clearly during several steps (they don't call this stuff 'invisible thread' for nothing...)... The wheel halves are cut off the end of a length of tube with a 7mm outer diameter. The suggestion of 'roundness' can be given to the end of the tube before cutting off the ring, and once cut off, the excess can be sanded down to a proper thinness. The ring on the left is finished, the one on the right is straight off the tube. Here a wheel half is on the weaving jig, with the spokes in place. The pencil marks are measured to provide a placement guide for centering, double-face tape sticks the piece in place, the projecting piece of 1mm rod at the center spreads the spokes out. Both ends of th length of monofilament are taped down on the back of the jig. A dab of CA gel is placed between the paired spokes on the rim, and spread to cover them. Care must be taken to keep glue off the inside rim, and it s best to do this twice. Let the glue set ('liquid patience' can be used to ave time, but doing so will make it necessary to replace the double-face tape for each use of the jig). Test by a little nudge with a toothpick to see each spoke is firmly attached. Then clip the lines outside the rim, and lift the half-wheel with spokes off the jig.... Trim the excess monofilament off at the rim, closely (the stuff is very resistant to sanding, so get it right at the edge with the scissors or knife). Place it mating surface up on the opaque assembly tool, prepared with double-face tape, and glue one of the thin flattened discs in the center. Hold over a white surface while you do this, so you can see the center.... Place the wheel half mating surface down on a flat white surface, and glue one of the un-flattened discs of 1mm rod in the center.... Return one of the two wheel halves to the assembly tool, mating surface up, and fasten the half millimeter length of 1.3mm rod to the center disc... Leaving that piece in place, attach the other wheel half to the bit of 1.3mm rod, taking care to off-set its spokes from those of the other wheel half. This is where the magic begins to happen.... The wheel halves are still separated by a bit under a millimeter's distance, however.... Apply glue all around the mating surface of the bottom wheel half, taking care to keep it off the inside rim. Place the clear assembly tool over the upper wheel half.... Squeeze the assembly tool together, doing your best to see the wheel halves come together with their otter diameters closely aligned. You won't always succeed, but about two out of three times the result will be acceptable. Holding the sandwich firmly together for a minute of so will be enough for the CA gel to set. If it looks useable, douse wit accelerator and tend to the seam, thinning down the outsides of the 'tire' a bit as well. I am still mulling over ways to improve the final external alignment. I am thinking that a 'collar' of the tubing, with several lengths of stout rod, perhaps 1.5mm thickness, affixed to the outside of the 'collar', would provide a good resting point for the bottom wheel half, and a good guide for fastening the upper wheel half to the spacer/axle piece, and for pressing it down to mate with the bottom wheel half. Another length of the tubing could be used as a tool to press down the upper wheel half in this step. I expect I will give that a try before I actually put wheels on 'El Sonora', but as I have usable wheels in hand, and know I can do this at the rate of about forty minuted a wheel complete, I consider the problem solved, and now, with wheels and motor in order, I can move to making the airframe.... The aeroplane is 'El Sonora', a Glenn Martin 'Flyer' operated in Mexico starting in 1913. Work on its engine may be found here:
    7 points
  20. BAC 111-207 British Eagle 1:144 Airfix with Classic-airlines.com decals I picked up this vintage Airfix BAC 111 at this years Cosford show for £10, in the British Caledonian boxing. Finding this decal sheet at www.classic-airlines.com I just had to have it, and started building immediately. The kit isn't bad but requires a few basic corrections as it was based on the early prototype, and the first production examples that went into service with British United. The nose is too blunt, so was built up with Milliput and given a more pointed shape. The wing fences aligned with the outer flap track need removing, and new ones installed further inboard. The leading edge landing lights need to be filled in, I rescribed the wings as well. An APU exhaust needs to be installed at the base of the rudder. Refined the shape of the rear cowlings, blending in the 'ring' exhaust to a smoother shape. Careful masking was needed to get a thin white line under the 'cheat line' and the decals needed care in application, but worked beautifully. I really enjoy building these vintage Airfix airliners, especially when I can put them into long gone liveries that I remember from my childhood. Ok, they are not to the standard of the stunning Authentic Airliners resin kits, but are still very enjoyable! And finally... with the F-Rsin Bristol Britannia; Thanks for looking, John
    7 points
  21. Hello all Seems ages since I posted anything here, and finally got around to taking some pictures of recent builds with the decent light flooding into my kitchen courtesy of the UK weather just lately. So, here are a few pics of each build I've finished in the last 8 months or so. Most are out of the box, usually assisted with aftermarket canopy masks, occasionally supplemented with a bit of resin. Paints used are usually a mix of Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqeuous acrylics, which i get along best with. Thanks for looking Adam 1. Heinkel HE 162 Salamander - Revell - 1/32 A nice kit, very cheap for the scale I thought (less than a tenner). Quite a rickety and fragile undercarriage, but otherwise a pleasureable build. 2. Chance Vought F4U-1/2 Bird Cage Corsair - Tamiya - 1/48 Nothing but good things to say about this kit. The wing fold option from the box works a treat, no need for expensive aftermarket stuff. This was the first time I’d tried the hairspray technique, as I wanted to show a weathered top coat wearing away to show the primer underneath. Could have done with an extra layer of protective varnish over the primer, but pretty happy for a first go. 3. Red Arrows Hawk – Airfix – 1/48 Airfix’s 50th anniversary offering. Decent kit, although I thought the cockpit details were a bit sparse, so I added a couple of Pavla seats and some instrument decals. I did a bit of surgery to the wings to display the flaps down, which made the decaling of the underside a bit more tricky, but overall happy with the result. 4. Sukhoi Su-27SM Flanker – Revell – 1/72 Another fine offering from Revell imo. Went with the box art version, but toned down the vividness of the blue. Having now seen some photos of the real aircraft, mine definitely isn’t blue enough… 5. Dam Busters Lancaster – Revell 1/72 I might start to sound like a sales rep for Revell, but this kit was another joy to build, once I’d rescued it from the hopeless side opening collapsing box. I’m a big fan of the colours of the Mr Hobby Aqueous acrylics range, although I’m not a stickler for accuracy, their dark green / dark earth just looks right to me. 6. Lockheed P-38 Lightning – Italeri – 1/48 Having been spoiled with building lots of nice kits of late, this one was a complete change of tone, and is one of the worst kits I’ve battled with. To some extent I agree with the view that there are no bad kits, just bad modellers, and if ever there was a set of sprues that highlighted my limitations as a modeler, then it was this one. Just about every joint needed tedious amounts of filling and sanding, some of the decals seemed as thick as cardboard, and I gave up trying to achieve anything with the clear parts that made up the central part of the canopy. Quite like the PRU blue shade though, so not totally dissatisfied… If you made it this far, thanks again…
    7 points
  22. Made a trip to the loft and looked through the stash. Before I expire from heat exhaustion, here are photographs of the Sword Seafires and their sprues.: Seafire II It has a Vokes filter and two types of propeller. Seafire III As you can see, there's almost enough to make a Seafire III and a Spitfire Vc (I'm told that not all boxings come so generously endowed, both of mine did). If you'll allow me a little self-indulgence, here is a Spitfire Vc I made using the spare bits: The elevators were from an AZ MkIX (I believe there are also spares in the Eduard kit), the propeller was from the new AZ/ KP MkVb, cockpit from a scrapped kit (probably an AZ MkVb) and undercarriage from an AZ MkIX. Not sure of the provenance of the canopy and cannon. I know it's not the easiest way to do a Vc but you could make a Vc and keep the Seafire bits to use later. The moral of this tale, if there's one, is... buy more Spitfires.
    6 points
  23. Well I’m first cab off the rank of this build, only because I though it was to start last weekend! Had all the photos and stuff ready as well. For this GB I wanted something nice and simple, I had the Eduard 2000C in the stash so all I needed was a new colour scheme as I didn’t fancy the ones supplied. The model is quite simple and really old, it started life in 1992 when it was released by Heller…..and it shows it! The panel detailing is quite nice but some of the other stuff! There are some nice extras with the model, some I’ll use some I won’t. So I plan to throw away the old cockpit and fit a new cockpit Wolfpack one. Plus a few other bits, at the stage I bought the wheels I had planned to build her with wheels down but have since decided to do her in flight. So the wheels are available to anyone who wants them. These doors are part of the reason why I didn’t want to build her wheels down! I’ll either rebuild these or replace them. I’ll probably have to replace them as their shape doesn’t match the door opening at all! Ok finally the colour scheme, well she will be rather bright! Not quite the simple scheme I had planned, but at least it’s all decals this time so that should help. It’s actually going to be part of a bigger theme of builds I’m planning. I want to build up a set of Tiger Meet aircraft, I have the 2015 Polish F-16CJ, I’ve got a 2010 Czech Gripen (about 1/3rd finished) already. So in future GB’s I’ll start to add more. As mentioned this will be do as an in-flight model, I have Leon already for the cockpit. With the new control surfaces I’ll try an give her an action look. That said I did make one really scary discovery when I was laying out the new control surfaces on the kit ones. After looking at some scale drawings it appears that the kit has some issues with the angle of the leading edge its control surfaces! I’ll know more once I start cutting things up….. and this was to be a simple build! Leon has since run away!
    5 points
  24. Hi Here is another finished build with this Russian Navy Sukhoï Su-33 fighting over Syria in December 2016. This is a 1/72 kit from Zvezda and she should be published in Tamiya Model Magazine French Edition. Patrick
    5 points
  25. Dear all, Just completed this evening, Wingnut's 'Le Rhone' engine version of the Camel. I did experience a few hiccups during the build, but got there in the end. Built out of box, brush painted and rigged with combination of 2lb fishing line and Prim elastic thread. Presented in the markings for Canadian ace Donald McClaren. I learnt a few lessons during this build which will stand me in good stead for when I get around to the the 2F1 'Ships Camel' version in my stash. Not perfect by any means but I am pleased how it turned out. Regards Dave
    5 points
  26. What are these visual telephones you infer? Sounds like the ravings of a Mad Man to me Sir? What next I ask. Aircraft with but a single wing and no rum barrel? These are important points. What's that grey and white thing that makes an occasional appearance? Blackburn Blackburn. Now there's the epitome of British Aircraft design. I suspect it could probably get up to double figures with a tail wind. By the way my Airian friend where do you find the information to detail these wondrous builds of yours? Much better use of time than hibernating on the journey here. I just watch porn....
    5 points
  27. Typhon FGR.4 in markings of the 3rd RAF Squadron and in the weapons configuration for the Ellamy operation - hits on selected Kaddafi targets in 2011. Revell model (in the box looks nice but in practice not so much) with a few added my little things and Eduard PE zoom, Lithening II CMK, GBU-24 Eduard, nozzles - OlimpResin (very bad - I failed on this product). I invite:
    4 points
  28. Afternoon all, Thought I'd share a selection of images from what was a superb few days in France. My first time abroad for one of these types of events, I had an absolute blast, spending Tuesday through to Thursday lunchtime in and around the base, and in mostly glorious weather too. As a huge fan of the Rafale, having 16 (I think?!) examples on show was pure fast jet heaven, especially when they look as good as the 11F and Lorraine specials, stunning schemes Overall though, great to see so many fast jets in an operational capacity rather than in an airshow environment that I'm more accustomed to. My first NTM experience is unlikely to be my last! Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 143/30-GV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Grumman E-2C Hawkeye 2 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 15/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Airbus Helicopters EC665 Tigre HAP 2018/BHF Armee de Terre BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale B 318/30-HM Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale B 324/30-HV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Boeing F/A-18C Hornet J-5011 Swiss Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Aerospatiale AS-342M Gazelle 4145/GBY Armee de Terre BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr General Dynamics F-16AM Fighting Falcon FA-94 Belgian Air Component BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 11 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Saab 105OE 1125/RE-25 Austrian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Saab JAS-39C Gripen 39238 BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Boeing F/A-18C Hornet J-5012 Swiss Air Force BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 11 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 46 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 10 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 46 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Grumman E-2C Hawkeye 2 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Eurofighter Typhoon S MM7310/36-32 Italian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr General Dynamics F-16AM Fighting Falcon FA-106 Belgian Air Component BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr General Dynamics F-16BM Fighting Falcon FB-15 Belgian Air Component BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 127/30-GF Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Saab 105OE 1135/E Austrian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 15/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Boeing F/A-18C Hornet J-5021 Swiss Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 145/30-GX Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale B 324/30-HV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 143/30-GV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 10 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Eurofighter Typhoon S MM7310/36-32 Italian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale B 324/30-HV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr General Dynamics F-16AM Fighting Falcon J-001 Royal Netherlands Air Force BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Eurofighter Typhoon S MM7302/36-25 Italian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 13/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Boeing F/A-18C Hornet J-5011 Swiss Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr General Dynamics F-16AM Fighting Falcon J-016 Royal Netherlands Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 143/30-GV Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Eurofighter Typhoon S MM7292/36-21 Italian Air Force BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale C 127/30-GF Armee de L'Air BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Aerospatiale Sa-330B Puma 1244/DDO Armee de Terre BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 46 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Dassault Rafale M 36 Aeronavale BAN Landivisiau 14/06/17 by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed Shaun
    4 points
  29. I've been Photobucketed! Pictures are below. nice quick build to go alongside my Gloucester Gladiator for the GB. While I had the camo paints out, I thought I would have a dabble. Love a splash of orange. Comments and criticism welcome, thanks for looking.
    4 points
  30. Hello, the beauty is finished ... I love the Mosquito as one of the most beautifully shaped airplanes ever.... she has a kind of elegance in her shape ... Kit is from Tamiya in 1/32 with many, many parts, great fit, great quality, great details, great manuals, great ..... a fantastic kit of a huge model! I have added some photo etched parts from Eduard, some new decals for the stencils and markings (Canadian Airforce with beautiful nose art) and some resin parts. Painting was done with Lifecolor-colors mainly, plus AK Interactive. Weathering with oil colors, pigments, ... I hope that you like it! Cheers Micha
    4 points
  31. I want to present my last model build, a Mitsubishi Zero in 1/72 scale from Airfix. It is part of the Pearl Harbor dogfight double set wich also includes a P40B Warhawk. I add the Eduard photoetched set for cockpit and exteriors. The canopy comes in one only piece so i decided to cut it, also the model is complete riveted. It was painted with Model Master Enamel paints, and wathering was with Model Master Acrylic washes and K4 pigments. Decals represent Pilot Lt. Shindo Saburo airplane, part of the 1st Squadron in the IJN carrier "Akagi"’s second wave on Pearl Harbor attack. 7th December 1941. Pictures: The P40B Warhawk post , part of the double set you can see here: Hope you like it.
    4 points
  32. Hi all well it's finally done being completely honest I think it's ended up looking very boring, I think I should have picked a different super hero, like the incredibles or maybe the fantastic 4 I would have weathered it with differing shades of black for the different panels as someone did suggest but I don't think I've ever seen a bat vehicle that wasn't perfectly matt black or perfectly gloss black. Anyway here it is, at sometime in the future maybe I will revamp in another colour scheme.
    4 points
  33. Onwards and upwards then. For a while I have been struggling with how to do the Arab's distinctive exhaust manifolds, which (like the RE.8 etc) have a very prominent longitudinal flange on the forward section, where the two parts were welded together. Finally I decided to bash a few bits of plastic and (as often happens) after a few tweaks my experiment ended up being the final version. First of all I trimmed some plastic tube (very old Evergreen stock) and put a taper on one end to see if it would fit and accurately represent the join of the manifold to the rest of the exhaust system (which will be aluminium tube). All OK there. My initial idea was to cut a long slot in the length of the tube to represent the flange and to use thin brass sheet for the flanged part. However, with the likelihood of this whole assembly being a bit flimsy with a plastic-to-brass joint, I decided instead to use thin plastic sheet and then I'd be able to flood any joints with MEK for a better weld. A new razor saw blade did a good job of cutting the slot: Then two pieces of (15 thou?) plastic card were slid into place and loads of MEK/liquid cement applied: Next, I applied Milliput to the 'forward' ends of each part, to represent the domed front end: And then once that had set, sanded it all back to a more accurate profile: Final bit (and the only awkward bit in fact after all that head-scratching) was to cut some header pipes from thick plastic card, and using the engine exhaust flanges as guides, spaced them initially with a dab of liquid cement, and then once they were all in the right place, applied another flood of MEK. Then repeat for the other side, trim them to the correct length and make sure the aluminium tubes still fit. Still a bit of tidying up and minor filling to do, but another hurdle overcome. Finally I drilled the headers for 0.4mm dowels and was able to roughly attach everything to see if it looks OK (which thankfully it does pretty much).
    4 points
  34. Thanks Everyone for following along. Hey, This is starting to get a bit fidgety. I have only managed to build the support frame for the water radiators. I wanted to get an idea of the size and location of things as I build. The Radiator rack is a flimsy frame that supports the water radiators and cages the engine. I got so involved with building this and doing the measerments as I went along, that I managed to get just one photo under construction. I did build a very basic engine place holder. I think this will be the engines bottom end. All placed on the frame so I can see what is actually going on. The Engine build continues. Thanks All...
    4 points
  35. Lol. I feel sorry for Mike and all the hassle he and the support and whoever else involved is having. However, I even feel sorrier for those causing the trouble, how bad and miserable must their life's be? Keep it up Mike and Co,
    4 points
  36. I've been playing with highlights throughout the weekend. Cheers
    4 points
  37. I'm at a loss now. The only thing I can suggest is for us to see what happens when I do the next update. I may well do this sooner than I would normally do so we can see what is going on. And as for you Mr Spadgent, beware the blurglecruncheon I imported from the Vogon home world just last week: Martian (Supporting free speech across the Galaxy)
    4 points
  38. hi Kallisti - it is alclad filler primer that I am using. The problem i have with sanding is that i have a bunch of "C" channel framing on the reverse side - that means I cannot get an even pressure over the surface when sanding and it creates yet another set of problems. I think a combination of thicker styrene / different bonding agent / less pressure when bonding will give me an acceptable (read "better" result). I have confidence, misplaced though it may be. So, onto today's little escapade with paints, pigments and problems. Let's start off with what went well.... eh.... well... uhmmnn... Okay, now we've got that part behind us, let's carry on with what really happened... The vestibule end was sanded down nice and smooth. A straightforward job that didn't take long at all. That was done a few nights ago. Today, it was cleaned, dusted down and holding my breath.... I went for the respray. Holy crappola. Things just aren't going my way with this build are they ? About the only part with a decent finish is the part that was sanded down. The previous "good" finish has gone all phnargley Based on that, it appears that the enamel paint is reacting with itself ! (By this time, the mojo is getting a little battered). Okay, vestibule end is not back on the shelf while I rethink that approach. I still have another one to make so I may just as well make two new ones. On to the dreaded side frames. (by this time i have taken another deep breath). This brought with it another whole new set of problems - have you ever tried masking a straight line nearly 600mm in length ? (that's about 2 feet in Americanese) - Then another one and tried to keep them parallel ? It didn't help that Cleetus here kept masking to the outside of the cream demarcation instead of the inside ! 'duh! Anyways, after a good 30 minutes I eventually had one side masked and ready to go. By this time abandon was thrown to the wind and I had already decided that these side frames are going to be my test pieces - unless things go completely against plan and they turn out okay. Rattle can shaked and rattled until the ball bearing wore out, finger depressed (not just my finger at this point!) and whooshy whooshy paint sprayed.... then demasked at the earliest opportunity. On a cursory glance it sort of looks okay doesn't it. And while we still have some tin canning effect going on, it is not as blatantly obvious as I thought it was going to be. However, on closer inspection we can see that once again, there is some kind of reaction going on - and about a third of the way up from the bottom of that photo is yet another I-won't-take-paint spot. Booger and bolloricks! Overall, the finish is rather pants considering it had all been micro-meshed smooth. Just as well, this is a test piece (now!) Fear not! says I, and promptly start banging my head on the concrete floor in a typical Cleesesque fashion. Pete - the chicken obviously wasn't the right kind... was it brown or white ? So, moving on.... I've also been continuing to work on the transfer sheet, and am almost complete. That called for a quick print out to check scaling and to make sure everything fitted where it should. (...still a couple of transfers missing here) The paint reaction can be seen better here just to the left of the Pegasus name plate. All of this paint malarkey had my mind in a boil and I decided to try a different tack. Up till now, I had been using the brown enamel straight from the rattle can. Probably not the best approach but I thought it was worth a try. Now I know better. While I was trying to sort out the paint colors some weeks ago, I had bought another color - "Italian Dark Brown" from Model Master. It looked worth a shot and by this time I had nothing to lose had I ? I had bought it being under the impression that it was acrylic - and it wasn't. It was also a matt finish while I was looking for a gloss. What the heck, let's try it anyway - I opened up my tin of humbrol enamel thinner to find that the inside of the can had corroded and I had lots of rusty floaters in the tin. Nice one Humbrol! Let's cut to the chase here... Upper is the brown enamel from the rattle can, and the lower is airbrushed Italian dark brown. Whaddya know - I got a nice even decent finish all over - no reaction either ('cept from me). The photo above doesn't really do the color any justice - artificial light and all that. I had a rattle can of clear enamel gloss lying around so before the Italian brown even had time to cure I gave it a lashing of clear gloss - well, part of it at least - so I could see what the color change effect was like Despite what the photo above shows, the two colors are in fact very close to one another. Close enough for me to consider using the italian brown. It is certainly within the range of Pullman "Umber" shades that I have seen. Thoroughly depressing huh ? Well, not quite - despite almost nothing going right over the last few weeks, I do feel that I am making some headway - mainly by making mistakes and ruling things out. Rattle cans are out! at least for using to apply the paint. I will do another test mule at the earliest opportunity using decanted brown from the rattle can to see what that turns out like - safe in the knowledge that I have the Italian Brown to fall back on (if I get hold of some not-rusty not-Humbrol enamel thinners) The tin-canning effect is not as pronounced as I thought it was going to be, so with a different bonding agent, less pressure on the joint, and a bit of care, I think I can minimize that effect. I will have two different thickness of styrene to use for the side frame to see which is better. Currently I am using 0.020" - about 0.5 mm. I have also ordered 0.030" - about 0.75 mm. Obviously, the thicker styrene means that the windows will sit further back from the outer surface, but it may look okay - only a test will tell. Where are we now ? well, the mojo is definitely not 100% but it is on the rebound so at least heading in the right direction. It feels crap that I haven't made any real progress in the last few weeks, but I am finally getting to a point where I feel progress is forthcoming in the not too distant future. or perhaps just another few "learning opportunities" - who knows ?
    4 points
  39. Its not new and I cant remember if it ever made it to this forum; built about 6 years ago from the Revell 1/72 Sea King and the Whirlybird Decals / Models S61NM conversion kit, this diorama has been totally re-built and brought back to life after being totally smashed to pieces by a rogue tennis ball aimed at it by some moron. Left in many pieces to rot in a very well buried box in my attic, I found this during a house move in February and decided to bring the memory of the Lands End service back to life. Originally built as a memory of my childhood days when my parents owned a cottage over on Tresco in the Scillies which we flew to originally via St Mary's and then in later years as a direct service to Tresco; the family would trek over on what was originally a BEA service and then in BA's red white and blue colours. This particular S61 (BEON) ditched killing 20, just 1 month ahead of one of our numerous trips over to the Scillies. A big mention to Roger Evans of Whirlybird Models who has brought this amazing model to our benches - another subject that had for many years been overlooked by the main stream manufacturers. Hopefully, one of my club colleagues at Farnborough shall soon bring another Whirlybird 1/72 S61NM to life to compliment this diorama After the 2017 rebuild... And finally, as it was before its new facelift and rebuild back in 2011 Thanks for looking in - John
    3 points
  40. Hello all I finally finished my Airfix Blenheim after a bit of a struggle. It started out as a Mk I but I messed up the canopy so it became a Mk IVF! Fit was problematic in places, to say the least. Lots of old school cutting, filling and sanding was required, and at one point I felt like giving in - definitely my least favourite Airfix build so far. Markings are for V5735 from 254 Squadron, while on Coastal Command duties in July 1941. It's a homage to the old-tool AIrfix Blenheim which included this option. I used Xtradecal codes and the serial number was supplied by fellow Britmodeller 'Johnd' who kindly sent me a set of transfers from the old kit. It's not quite accurate as the real aircraft had the later style of canopy with blisters in the side, which Airfix don't supply. I also didn't bother with the gas detection patches on both wings and tailplanes. In the end I was reasonably pleased with how it turned out. It sits nicely in my little Airfix collection but I shan't be building another!
    3 points
  41. I don't think Aires or Barracudacast are going to be quaking in their boots any time soon, but these will do for me: They are just slightly larger than the Frog wheels, which are in turn larger than the MPM wheels, and I can hide the dodgiest segments behind the undercarriage leg and door. Thanks for looking, Adrian
    3 points
  42. 3 points
  43. I'll keep my legs crossed. it's still elongated but pressing ones finger on the offending picture loads it in a new window with the correct aspect. If that helps, which it probably doesn't. thats the price we pay for using telephones instead of computers. Jont.
    3 points
  44. I've looked at the photos on page 1. Photo 1A - the brake rods have been airbrushed out 1AA is better 3 shows the lever full forward 28A shows the lever angled forward Photogammetry 1 is of two images, one overlaid on the other; one has the lever fully angled to the rear - where does that image come from? Ignore all of the drawings - they all have errors 1; remember these brakes are totally mechanical. Hydraulic brakes are of the 1930s and I do not see any evidence of hydraulic brakes on this car. Being mechanical the braking effort is dependent on the strength of the driver - his leg or arm, or both 2. Is there a locking button on the top of the lever? Possible, but not probable. I think what we see is the top if the metal shaft above the thin rubber hand grip. Taking point 1. It appears that Fiat is clever. By using gears they can multiply the driver's arm forces to the brake system. Pull the brake handle to the rear; the gear teeth on it go downwards, counter clockwise - the gear in the rod linkage rotates downwards, clockwise, the top linkage is pulled forwards, and the bottom linkage is pulled rearwards, both pulling on the brakes Point 2; it was more usual to have another lever attached to the main brake lever. This smaller lever releases the dog, or pawl which engages in gear teeth and locks the lever on or off. I cannot see a locking mechanism on this brake system The handbrake system on a 1928 Bentley 4.5 litre racing car; the small lever can be seen at the top [sorry, best photo I can find right now] 3. Actuating the brakes via the foot pedal does not move the handbrake lever. The systems are independent but within each other - by the use of counter shafts. On my 1930 Austin saloon [a car not mentioned till now] the foot pedal is attached to the rear brakes via a shaft across the chassis, off which the brake cables run to the brake drums. Over this shaft is fitted another hollow shaft which has the cables to the front brake drums. Applying the footbrake pulls on the rear brakes, only them, as this shaft rotates, within a counter shaft. When I pull on the handbrake lever the outside counter shaft engages the inner shaft and pulls on both the rear brakes and the front brakes 4 In this era front brakes were considered to be not needed or not very effective. The first car to offer 4 wheel brakes as standard fitment was the Austin 7 in 1922, from 1924 other car makers offered front wheel brakes as an extra feature for more money But - racing drivers new how effective front wheel brakes are and had them on their cars and used the hand brake lever more than the foot pedal. In our club racing and events we use the hand brake lever more often than the foot pedal 5. The adjustment of the tightness of the rods or cables are the thick parts poking out in a line with the rod or cable. This takes up the slack and determines how quickly the brake will come on, it takes up any slack in the cables stretching through use; they can stretch 10mm during one race. The stars are the tensioners, for how tight or loose the mechanism works. Too tight and the driver needs extra muscles to pull on, too loose and he can't do a fine measured amount of smooth braking I think that covers some of it
    3 points
  45. Thanks for the comments everyone. I was up late last night watching Le Mans and putting on the decals so it now just needs some matt varnish and weathering and it should be complete. First though its games time! Or to be more precise base time. My wife goes to car boots regularly and keeps a look out for suitable pieces of wood for bases and last year she came home with this wooden games board (snakes and ladders on the other side) for 50p. I have stuck some artist board to one side and inscribed a pattern for the concrete hardstanding, just needs painting/weathering now.
    3 points
  46. Thanks Michael - good advice! I think I might just build it OOB. But it wouldn't take much to move a window. Or two. Dither dither... Thanks Tony - I shall infer something at my leisure! Thanks John - hopefully I'll get (re)started soon. It is DONE! I have today completed the sale of my company and I'm now RETIRED! Aha ha ha ha.... Not 'buy a yacht and sail the world' retired, just stopping the daily drudge (and fighting off SWMBO's wish to replace it with DIY drudge!) I now have nothing to do and I'm going to enjoy doing that for a while until I get bored. I haven't had the time to be bored for a LONG time... Plus some modelling, of course. We're off to Blenheim with the girls tomorrow, back Sunday, and I hope to get some bench time then. About time! Watch this space...
    3 points
  47. It's done. A bit rushed at the end but it's nice to have finished. First of all, here's the cockpit. Most of the detail is visible although it's impossible for me to get a good picture of the instrument panel: And here's all the opening up underneath: I did get my three landing lights in the front bay but again it would take a better photographer than me to provide evidence! The wings swing (independently; I proved to my own satisfaction that it was impossible to simply modify the provided linkage to make them symmetrical at all angles), and the tailplane inclines, although I replaced the flimsy plastic axle structure with a piece of aluminium tube that runs through some more draught foam to give it some friction. So in the absence of propellers, it has the right number of moving features for a twin-engined plane! Wings out, tailplanes inclined: Tailplanes level and a bit of sweep: More pics in the gallery. Thanks for a group build that took me out of my comfort zone! Thanks for looking, Adrian
    3 points
  48. Cheers Johnny, thank you, way too kind Little Friday update: wingtip nav light are now completed. Top view Bottom view Water radiator: PPP to fill in the gaps Once dry, I used a moist microfiber rag to remove the excess Some refining was done using and old pointy brush dumped in water. I think a primer coat will reveal the need for some touch ups - will see. I also added some details on both sides of the radiator cover, using a 0.25mm styrene sheet and the usual very thin yogurt cup plastic Glued in place with a drop of CA gel and then sealed with Tamiya Green Cap. They now need some sanding/refining and some riveting, but I'm allowing at least 24 hours to cure before touching them. using the same yogurt cup plastic, I scratch built the four wing root join strengthening plates They were all glued in place with Tamiya Green Cap Once cured, I did some random riveting on them, especially on port side wing, as the reference pictures for this aircraft show some extensive repair jobs made in that area and others pictures of different airframes show different riveting patterns. Now I need to do the same thing on the bottom side. One last thing for today: using various scribers, I went along the top and bottom engine cowling panel lines. As stated before, on the real aircraft (both the C202 and C205) there is a 13mm gap between them and the fuselage, which roughly scales down to 0.27mm in 1/48 The bottom cowl didn't need any rescribing as you can see That's it for the day, have a great WE everybody Ciao
    3 points
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