Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/04/17 in all areas

  1. Hello, This is the beautiful Revell Rafale M converted into a Rafale C. There are many details to modify but the most important is the landing gear. Hope you like it, cheers
    22 points
  2. Finished the Harrier. Never have I spent so much time on getting data. Ordnance this that and all the others. No grantee that is authentic in all respects in fact not authentic in some respects. The first picture is before I attempted applying effects. http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http://
    21 points
  3. This is a quick fun build to finish the month after putting a lot of effort into a Lynx. I'm not sure where my current enthusiasm for airliners has come from, but I am enjoying building them, even if the large white surfaces are still a bit of a challenge for my brush painting skills, especially over grey plastic like this one. A British Airways Trident was the second aircraft that I ever flew in (the first was a Wasp), back in 1980. Tridents used to do the shuttle run from Edinburgh to Heathrow, making good use of their advanced zero-visibility automated landing systems ( a world first at the time) to keep running when the other airlines (in those days British Midland and B-Cal) came to a halt. This is the old Airfix kit of 1966 vintage (mine was an early 1990s re-issue), pretty much out the box. Cockpit windows are a little dodge and would definitely benefit from filling and a decal, but otherwise it is a nicely fitting kit. Of course it has a number of accuracy challenges, not least the cabin window layout, lack of wing to fuselage fairing and the wings are too straight. But unless you know all about Tridents, you would never guess! I altered the nose wheel to be offset to one side and used Krystal Klear for the cabin windows (with a black "screen" behind them), which seems to have worked really well (although a couple of them haven't fully cleared yet). Otherwise, what you see is what you get in the box! FredT
    19 points
  4. Here's another of my older builds. The Matchbox Hawker Fury, which is a lovely, easily assembled kit. I think this must have been a latter production as the sprues were two different shades of silver, quite restrained for Matchbox. For a parked aeroplane the u/c should be shortened. I started to rig but discovered invisible thread was...invisible, so gave it a miss. I plan to try rigging on my next biplane, honest. Metal panels are good old school Humbrol 11 whilst the doped areas are Revell Aluminium with matt varnish to dull it back. All brushed with enamels, I look froward to trying a silver plane again now I have an airbrush. Cheers Will
    18 points
  5. Hi all here are some pics of my latest project ICM's excellent new Mig-25RBT built as an RB from the 931st OGRAP (Guards Independent Reconnaissance Aviation Regiment) based at Werneuchen East Germany in the 1970's. This model has been built as part of the 1970's NATO/WARPAC GB which is well worth checking out if you haven't had a look already as there are some cracking builds on there. The kit has been built out of the box with the exception of a pitot probe by Master (which is a must have for this kit) and some Eduard seat belts. Despite the size and complexity of the kit (it really is big!) it goes together very well and only needs a small amount of filler in a couple of places and I highly recommend it, anyway here are some pics. I used decals by Begemot which worked very well indeed and I will be using more of theirs in the future, they looked like a better size than the kit decals and they settled down nicely into position. If you want to have a read of the WIP then here is a link; Hope you like it and please feel free to comment and criticise. Thanks for looking in. Craig.
    16 points
  6. On the 2"rd of November 43 while operating around the Gilbert islands Hellcats from the Lexington VF-16 jumped some fifteen Zeros from the 252Ku. In the ensuing melee nine Zeros were lost for one Hellcat. EV1 Eugene Hanks became an "Ace in one day" by shooting down five enemy planes. The model depicts his plane after he added 5 victories tallies on his F6F.
    14 points
  7. Many of you will know that there will be a GB on flying boats later this year in which considerable interest has been expressed. Yours truly has signed up for a build but he is not sure what it will be yet other than a WW1 type scratch build in 1/72, but not this one. I have already attempted a couple of WW1 flying boats - they are not the better known types but that makes them all the more interesting for me. This was one I knew nothing about until Ninetythirdliberator (Dan Smith) published an excellent build log of the Formaplane vacuform on another specialist website. I have an aversion for vacuforms and anyway I think that scratch building is easier and more satisfying in the longer run, so I managed to get Dan to send me a copy of the plans and after a couple of months I had my own model. I would also like to thank IanB who very kindly donated the tail badges from the Pegasus set. Otherwise the model is plastic, home printed crosses except the nose, which was hand painted, rigged with 40 SWG copper wire. There is a build log on ww1aircraftmodels.com if you are interested: for a scratch build this was not difficult except for placing the top wing. The outer struts lean outwards and forwards at the same time so a simple jig had to be made to support them while they dried out. Amazing what paint pots will do when required! The fuselage was push moulded but the underside of the hull has a convex surface so this had to be moulded separately and added after the sides had been glued together. The wingspan is approximately 6 inches (15cm). The Phoenix Type A was a Hansa Brandenburg design (the W18) which was manufactured under licence for the Austro-Hungarian navy: one was supplied to the German navy but as German pilots preferred floatplanes rather than flying boats the type was not used by them. By contrast the Austro-Hungarian navy used flying boats in considerable numbers for the defence of port and other coastal installations, and for offensive operations and reconnaissance. The Phoenix Type A entered service in the summer of 1917 for the defence of Trieste, Pola, Kumbor and Parenzo (Porec) - all on the Adriatic Sea, where it was capable of holding its own against the Nieuport 11 being used by their Italian opponents. Machines were powered by either a 200hp or 230hp Heiro engine (the German machine was powered by a Benz III), and there were variations in the tail structures and radiators mounted on the top wing In 1918 these machines were generally withdrawn from front line service as their relatively limited range and lack of manoeuvrability meant that they were outclassed by the newer machines being employed by the Italians. Thanks for looking. P
    12 points
  8. Just completed for the DH GB. Another of my personal models of aircraft I've flown in. This time DH89 G-AIDL at Biggin Hill May 1978. A pleasurable 15 minute ride in this lovely old thing over 'The Bump'. A few left over pics :
    12 points
  9. Having firmly forbidden myself any new WNW Sopwith Camel until I had finished at least one of the old Academy kits in my stash, I did this one with a Part/Poland etch set and a home-made decal for the personal insignia. New Zealand ace Harold F. 'Kiwi' Beamish flew with No. 3 Naval (later No. 203 Sq. RAF) on the Western Front, credited with 11 victories in some 500+ hours of combat flying, most of it in Camels. He scored 4 of those victories in 'Tiki' (N6377) during the summer/autumn of 1917. Poor 'Tiki' ended up on her back following a landing accident, but Beamish apparently took the panel with his personal markings with him home to New Zealand, where it was proudly displayed on the wall of his home. New Zealand's last surviving WW1 fighter pilot, he passed away at the age of 90 in 1986. The Part p-e set provided a lovely interior, detail parts for engine and control surfaces, and lots of tiny rigging brackets (with separate attachment parts, no less) which I used with EZ-Line (and lots of CA) for the flying and landing wires. Major mods to kit parts included adding styrene-rod pushrods and brass-tube and rod spark plugs to the engine, and cutting the kit-molded 'rigging loops' from all the struts. Guns are kit breeches with the Part set's p-e jackets and faces/ringsights. Most tedious of all---but necessary---was sanding down the molded rib detail on wing and control surfaces, which looked more like corrugated sheet-metal than the fabric-over-rib surfaces we all know and love. Paints are my own mixes of Tamiya acrylics, weathered/textured with oil glazes and drybrushing. Decals are almost entirely from the old-but-sturdy kit sheet, with name and serials made up from railroad letter/number sets. Beamish's personal insignia---the golden fern leaf, iconic symbol of his beloved New Zealand---was made up from a tweaked online image of a real fern leaf, and printed on my home inkjet. Great fun, and rather an absorbing project once I got into it. Hope you enjoy the photos.
    10 points
  10. OOB except for the luggage, cable and flag (which could be better - not sure tissue is ideal, I need to try Magic Sculpt or some such). Nice kit, enough bits left over to virtually build another superstructure. Hopefully these are a bit clearer: Regards J A
    9 points
  11. This is Dragon's 1/35th Panzer III. The kit was for a Flampanzer, but as it had the parts included for a standard gun tank, I built it with a standard gun turrett. I used a left over set of Dragon's Magic Tracks, and I managed to put one set of tracks on the wrong way round! As usual with Dragon kits there are loads of parts, plenty of detail, and the usual confusing plans! I used Tamiya and Mr Color acrylics to paint the thing. how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 how to screenshot on windows 7 Thanks for looking Angelo.
    9 points
  12. Here is a model built in 1981 for a retiring friend who flew this aircraft while assigned to 243 Sqn RAF.. The rocking chair and later a fishing rod, tackle box and net told the story behind this 1:32 build.. On Larry`s last day in Pitt Meadows Tower, we made him stay in position right to the last second ...then presented him with the model.It was well worth the effort. Barney
    8 points
  13. From the double Czechoslovak service kit. Excellent kit went together well. Hradec Kralove air base 50s. There are 6 awesome versions in the kit. My first jet since returning to the hobby. All Humbrol paints and the silver is Humbrol metalcote spray can, it's ok with a smooth primer underneath. Will be trying something else for metal finish on the next MiG 15 from the set where I will do Lt Sramek who was one of the few to actually shoot someone down during the Cold War!
    8 points
  14. Right ok then, Shix shades of shea grey... (Connery voice) All the colours were built up to an opaque level on grey primer. (Stynylrez) Not doing any pre/post shading or variation just want solid colour for comparisons. Once all the airframes are complete and had decals on then I will do some fading with oils/filters etc. Sorted a decent picture! Cool/blue-ish shades on the left. mr paint & hataka (most blue) neutrals in the centre, - colourcoats and mr color. Almost identical. Warmest/browny-cream types on the right, Ak air & xtracrylix with the later the most brownish. Here is the range of the variation between the two extremes of colour. Hataka being the bluest and xtracrylix the brownest. On their own they each look like MSG, especially because its on the bottom of a spitfire so your brain expects it. But together its a different story! Variety is the spice of life as they say!
    8 points
  15. DH 89 A Dragon Rapide G-AIDL at Biggin Hill May 1978. Heller( from Airfix boxing) kit. Registration decals from generic sets by Aeroclub, some etch and Xtracrylix Silber acrylic paint airbrushed.
    8 points
  16. Hey guys, here is my latest work - the kit is very nice Eduard 1/48 Bf 109F-4. It was finished in a bit over a week - on very last minute i have decided to go and see the Moson kit show this year, as it was my dream for some time already. And because i did not want to go there with empty hands, i had to build something.. The kit is amazing, goes together realy well and all problems vere caused just by myself and the limited time i had. I have used the Profipack boxing, so i had some basic PE sheet and canopy masks from the box,on top of that i bought the Eduard Brassin flaps - the flaps in the kit have sadly some sink marks (i have noticed it on the G-6 kit earlier too, which is using the same sprues with little parts) and also the Brassin flaps have some very nice details added. Because of the rushing i did not make any WIP thread around, so hope you wont mind some WIP shots I have added a bit of details on the cockpit sidewalls - mainly in the front areas as these were totaly empty (but as you ll see later, these front areas of the pit are almost not at all visible after the fuselage is glued together). I wanted to create some textures for the basic camouflage as i was not sure how many of it ll be visible later (did not know how much of the white i m going to remove, but on my next winter camouflage model i m going to skip this step as totaly nothing of this is visible later, so it is just waste of time/paint.. + so many paint layers effectively lowers the visible details later. But when i have already put the time in, here we go with the shots The original idea was to make the winter camo scheme and also some snowy base. As a part of it, i wanted to make the canopy glass icy/frozen from inside as i have seen it like that on some photos. So i tried some stuff for re-creating ice on it. At first it looked ok, but in the end.. well.. simply it did not turn as good as i hoped. The snow on the base also did not look good to me, so i have scraped the idea for now... I ll need to practice and try more and more Then the fun with Washable white started (in my case from AK751 as it was in stock in local hobby store). The effects you can achieve with this kind of paint is very nice, also the effect depends on how long you let the white paint dry, before you going to wash it off. Long drying time makes the paint goes off in some kind of chips, after short drying time the paint is washed off in sort of "fuzzy" way First layer of washable white, washed off after long dry time Second layer of washable white, washed off after short dry time Third layer: chipping flow + dusty layer of flat "dirty" white, chipped down after few minutes, followed by brown-ish filters (mainly on wing roots where the crew would be moving) And here it is in the very end I m sorry for so many shots, but you know me guys, i cant decide which shot to use, so i use more of them... And trust me, i have used only like half of the images i have made.. Hope you like the result and thanks for watching guys Have a great day.
    7 points
  17. And my next new work! Paints - gunze sangyo hobby color. Thank you for your attention !
    7 points
  18. Hi, Next small bird of Spanish Civil War - the Bleriot-Spad 51. It was French fighter from 1923/4. So defintly obsolate at outbreak of SCW. The painting intendet to follows photo and profile published on Czech web page Valka https://www.valka.cz/14695-Na-spanelskem-nebi-Bleriot-SPAD-S-51-a-S-91 Basicly model is OOB, however there are differents between this scheme and scheme from AZ box - the struts are comouflaged, the red belt on fuselage is semi transparent for green patches, a small red star is on fin. What can be added - the carpet monster eaten original PE prop hub - now it is a home made surogat. Moreover - I found two mistakes in AZ instruction in scheme for riging and made riging following photos (namely - the rear pair of cables from lower wing goes as should go to fuselage, not to upper wing, and the riging of u/c is between main legs, not supporting struts). The propeller I made a bit more worn, since the rest of painting must be rather fresh when machine crashed in fall of 1936. The pilot was French volunteer Abdel Guideze (it is on Czech web page) - but Google does not know him. Perhaps someone heard anything who was this pilot? Here is the model: This is No 34 SCW subject on my shelves Comments welcome regards Jerzy-Wojtek
    7 points
  19. Hello, some years ago I started to do more static modeling, coming from remote control helicopters. After soldering some of the strip downs from Eduard of the last century I build now mostly 1/48 biplanes. I like to show my Airco D.H.2 in 1/48 finished end of last year. It's the only stripdown in this scale from Eduard. The PE was mostly soldered as far as possible to big assemblies. Struts are made from real wood, the four blade too. The engine was replaced with one from Small Stuff and can rotate with the prop. The rigging was done with help of Gaspatch turnbuckles, may be the model with the highest number of those used. Some plastic parts was replaced by brass, e.g. the tail boom and spar. The painting was done with Alclad, Gunze and oil. Now have fun with the pictures If you have further questions feel free to ask! Frank
    6 points
  20. It's a while since I've done any serious work on historical model subjects. For the past decade or so I've concentrated mainly on wargame figures, but my interests tend to go in circles (or perhaps downward spirals), and I'm redirecting my focus back to aircraft. Up until the mid to late 90s, my scale of choice was 1:72, but then I switched to 1:48, and I embraced all the aftermarket stuff with as much enthusiasm as anyone, but I do miss the days before then, when all your extra detail had to be scratchbuilt. So I've dusted off (literally - it was covered in it!) an Airfix 1:72 Skyraider that I put quite a bit of effort into back in the day, but never finished. Here it is as it now, having waited patiently for so long for work to resume. It seems the rudder has gone AWOL, so i'll need to scratchbuild a new one. That's probably where I'll start, then detail and mount the engine. Still a lot to do, but I'm looking forward to it!
    6 points
  21. Who needs a kit? Not me... When the local paper ran a story in 2013 about the first plane to land in my local area I thought I'd build a model. The plane was the BE4 and the two RFC occupants landed near a local pub just over a mile from my home due to "engine problems". As it landed in a field next to the pub one wonders. The pub and the field are still there but the BE4 took two later occupants to Glory when the rudder snapped off, an early example of metal fatigue, and well before many more planes and men took a similar route over Flanders fields. Anyway, here's the model, which I built in a couple of weeks to enter in the local group's annual competition. It didn't place but both model and I got our photos and a story in the local paper. The model is built from balsa and brass wire, the prop was carved from a coffee stirrer! Cheers Will
    6 points
  22. Thought it about time I put these up before I forget. basically the Roden kit with 26 Decals. Only finished about 3 weeks ago. First couple pics shown without BOAC titles as very temporarily I opted to depict one of the Supers that was kept back with Vickers/BAC for tests. It flew in the main livery but without the company titles. But it did have some photographic sighting markings applied and seeing as I don't know the colours I left them off. However I later carried on and applied the reg and full BOAC Cunard titles. These last two show posing with it a little collectable I have . A Cindy doll cabin bag.
    6 points
  23. Hi everyone! My new finish work from the ICM. Paints - gunze sangyo hobby color. Thank you for your attention !
    6 points
  24. Here are the hoist parts. I have already cut off the end part and glued that to the piece of fuselage. There were sink marks on both sides of the rectangular box thing which looks like some sort of tank, these were filled last night: The cable drum part had a sink mark on one end: Instead of filling that I turned it into a virtue, using it to help locate some detailing made from a length of tube and rod: Once dried I will sand back the rod a touch. My plan is to replace the tubular section of the hoist with some brass rod. As this will destroy some details I made a sketch of the area before cutting: Next I rounded off the corners of the tank and using a razor saw and fine round file made a groove on the back as well as cutting some 0.8mm rod to length for the jib: Next I cut off the circular portion off the diagonal brace and glued the remainder to the side of the fuselage. The circular portion will be replaced with more 0.8mm rod later. I also glued the rod onto the tank and added a small box at the end of the jib: Without drills that's as far as I can go on the hoist. I was then left slightly scratting around for things to do. Anyway, I masked the mounting surfaces of the main rotor ready for painting and added the bosses to the centre of the main and tail rotors: On the tail the arms of the centre boss should have a linkage to the blades but as assembled there was a gap. I started to add the linkages using some little angular parts from the spares box: These were actually the cut down rungs off my Bachem Natter launch pole, I knew they'd come in handy for something: Here it is finished: I mentioned at the start of this thread that there were some scratches in the transparencies. The last job of the day was to deal with these using some Micromesh. They are visible to the naked eye and quite obvious under magnification but proved quite hard to photograph. I have just about managed to capture a couple on the front RH window: There were some more of the downward looking windows but on these you'll have to take my word for it: I started Micromeshing with 3200 grit (rather than 2400) which highlighted the areas of the scratches: Here is the canopy after polishing was complete: Much better. The last scratches to deal with were on the upper LH side window, I think they are just about visible here: That has now been restored to acceptable optical clarity.Now I'm definately not sure what to do next. I plan to add some internal details to the cockpit side walls but that would be better left until after the front doors are cut out. I'll have a think. Bye for now, Nigel
    6 points
  25. This story doesn't surprise me, the J model Herc was also totally impractical for UK needs having only provision to make 1 cup of coffee at a time and a microwave cooker. Lockheed were at a loss to answer the question as to wether the microwave was N V G compatible ( we were only half joking). And oh how we laughed when it was discovered that the microwave's ping could be mistaken for the ACWS warning ping, resulting in panic from the two pilots when the Loadmasters warmed his pie.
    6 points
  26. ...so anyway, the vicar blushes, and Miss Prodworthy says: 'I can't believe it's not butter!' just as....<ahem> Ah! There you are!. Now who's been saying what? No point asking me, I'm still as baffled by it... Now then Bill and hendie, have a look at the following photo: (I'll risk the ire of the NRO for posting a couple of these shots from their Star Catchers publication, but I'm presuming as they are originally credited as USAF material and this is an eduoccasional use, that I'll not be getting a MOAB for lunch.) Image credit: USAF Them two frameworks attached to the roof on either side of the yellow sheave affair; I've been calling these ladders purely on grounds of visual similarity and ignorance on my part as to their exact function. Do other aircraft - cargo or otherwise - have ladder-type thingies on the roof like here? If so what are they? In other photos the shorter left one appears to be bolted to the ceiling, the right one I'm not sure about. Anyway, I'll be building them, whatever function they have: I've a pencil blowtorch ordered on account of a soldering suggestion of yours a while back Bill so this might be its perfect christening. And Crisp had mentioned solder paint as well.......the wages are just in - I wonder if the children could eat less this month? I'm planning to spoil lots of children's birthday parties. The back is much better this morning Ced, cheers! A combination of anti-inflammatories, heat, Tens machine, and core muscle stretching yesterday returned the required parts to correct alignment. Shopping is dangerous - don't risk it! Feeling as fresh as a spring daisy first thing this morning therefore I leapt from the scratcher to discover that the weather had turned promisingly ghastly. After inhaling a snootful of tea it was into the workroom to contend with miniature realities. Yesterday's remedial table and toilet grinding (eww..that sounds like a particularly sordid lap-dancing routine) seems to have done the trick regarding the cockpit window issue: After that is was up to the rooftops with Mary Poppins in order to test a surmise that a cut-down version of the original roof could still prove useful: In terms of internal height, now that we have the required extra clearance, the kit part sits happily in place (though the rear portion has been cut off as you see in order to fit the new 'step-up' at the very back) and needn't be discarded. The only real issue as you can see here is that of needing to widenthe roof panel slightly to adjust for the slightly different profile of the fuselage higher up into the wing roots: You can see what I mean a bit more clearly from the inside: That gap might appear a tad drastic, but if you hop back to that colour view of the real thing I started this post with, you can see that most of that ceiling/wall region is hidden by angles of padding and other various structural obfuscations. All I really need to do here is extend the ceiling on either side by about a millimetre or so: This was accomplished most directly by just laminating a profile along either edge out of thin plastic strip until the correct width was achieved: Any residual gap on from inside will be masked off by the aforementioned padding and so forth, so we don't need to be overly obsessive beyond this point: For the purposes of maintaining overall strength over the top of the wing/fuselage mating point I do want to add some extra framework though, a couple of crosswise parts and a single longitudinal piece in a kind of cruciform shape. Out with the contour gauge: And thence to a grindy-barrel sesh on the D-clone: They'll do: Well, nearly. A dry-fit reavealeth mine error in leaving the deeper of those two as broad as ye Bosphorous: A few millimetres to be whopped off there as you can see in order for it to be able to sit flush. I'm glad to have got to that stage today: the next 2-3 weeks are going to be extremely busy and I don't anticipate much opportunity outside of weekends. There's a lot of small gubbins for the roof that can be worked on in the odd half hour that may crop up here and there though, as at this point I feel that the roof-height dilemma has been satisfactorily resolved and we can move on. Nearly forgot. Here's a shot of the Pelican 9 crew taken immediately after they'd landed on completing the first successful capsule recovery mission: Image credit: USAF Just noticed here that there is no long 'ladder' at all on the starboard side of the roof - this build'll be a doddle now! That big drum however I will have to add, as the recovered capsule was first wrapped in black plastic and sealed inside the drum in order to form a lightproof seal for transportation to the film processing facility. Whatever you're worshipping this Sunday, I wish you the joy of it. Tony
    6 points
  27. Thanks @NickD and @Schwarz-Brot... I must say I am happy with the plating results. 185. This is the setup for electroplating. The process is quite simple really. I will give an overview using numbers. The order of those numbers follows the direction of the current. Ad 1. Transformator. With this you can regulate how powerful the electric circuit will be. The larger the surface to be electroplated, the higher the voltage. There are seven settings, from 3 to 12 volts. Ad 2. Current control unit. In case of short circuit or too high a current, the power is cut off. Ad 3. Connection to anode bar. The anode bar is connected to the current control unit by a red wire. Ad 4. A croc clip is attached to the metal of the anode bar... Ad 5. ... while on the other side of that wire a croc clip connects to the nickel anode. Ad 6. Idem 5. Ad 7. Idem 4. That was the positive lead. Interim conclusion: the transformator pushes current toward the two sheets of nickel. Ad 8. This is a part that will be electroplated. It's hanging from a wire. Ad 9. That wire is connected to the cathode bar. The cathode bar crosses the anode bar, but they are isolated from one another by a brown-coloured rubber tube sleeving the anode bar and crossing the bucket. Ad 10. The end of the cathode bar is connected to the black wire. Ad 11. The black cable is finally connected to the current control unit. The electrical circuit is completed as the electroplating solution is poured into the bucket. How it works: after the current has flown to the two sheets of nickel (#5 and #6) the current is 'sucked' toward the part(s) to be electroplated (#8 ) because that part is connected to the negative part of the circuit. Tiny bits of nickel are, as it were, detached from the nickel sheets, the move through the liquid solution and they bond to the brass, forming a thin layer of nickel. 186. I made a work instruction-summary of the manual. Of course anyone who wishes to electroplate for himself will need to go through all of the manual! Before and during electroplating (always use mask and gloves) Check room temperature: between 15 and 30 degrees? Carefully pour the solution into the tank. If necessary, filter. Hang the anode bar plus nickel anodes into the solution. Croc clips should not contact the liquid. The parts to be electroplated should be smoothened as much as possible + cleaned + degreased + washed in hot soapy water. The parts need to be prepared for electroplating by using a special cleaner/scourer/preparer (paste needs to be made with clean water, a piece of cloth is used to rub the paste onto the parts to be electroplated; insofar necessary a toothbrush can be used for hard to reach spots). In final: rinse. Check whether there's a continuous layer of water on the part(s) to be electroplated. Hang the parts from the cathode and dip them into the solution. Here it's not problematic if the clips contact the liquid. However the parts should not touch the nickel anodes. Set the voltage. Put the pump's tube into the liquid*. Connect transformator and pump. Wash hands. After electroplating (always use mask and gloves) Remove the electroplated parts, hold them by their leads. Don't touch the metal. Thoroughly wash the parts in hot water. Remove the nickel anodes, again holding them by their leads. Do not touch the anodes. Thoroughly wash the anodes in hot water. Remove and wash all other components. Pour the solution back into its container for future use. Wash hands. *With this first test that won't work, because it seems I only have one adapter for UK-EU plugs. I'll buy one more. Meanwhile I'll stir the solution a bit with a piece of sprue. 187. This is what it looks like in the bathtub: 188. After 10 minutes...189. After half an hour... 190. After an hour... 191. A short video to demonstrate to what extent there's still a colour difference: There's still a difference in colour alright but that difference is very light. I'll keep the electroplating process running for a bit but I don't expect too much change. I think I'll accept this result, especially because the seams that will get a slightly different tone will nearly always be situated in a spot of shadow or tone difference in themselves. I expect that the modest difference will not be noticeable if it will be knowable at all.
    6 points
  28. Life has been interfering with the model world recently... but we have a small update Wheelhouse fitted out including chart table Then it was the turn of the portholes, using a variation of a technique used before First rough cut to length holding in a pin vice For sizing depth wise. I drilled a hole of suitable depth in a maple block. I've found with this sort of work hardwood is better. If you don't have any use the knot in softwood. Sanded down Finished product, to give a sense of size the tube is 1.5mm diameter Using a piece of 0.1mm card to set depth The finished product including handle and hinges on the door Thanks for stopping by Kev
    6 points
  29. Hello, on Friday I finished the latest project, which started beginning of this year. And after the great feedback for my D.H.2 Stripdown I like to show the latest here too. This Pup was created from a very old Eduard short run kit, a 80PS Le Rhone form Small Stuff replaced the kit engine, real wood was used again for struts, air screw, gear, top of fuselage. The seat belts are the new steel from Eduard too and the decals come from Pheon. Painting was done with colors from Alclad, Gunze and Oils. The etch parts of the kits were fantastic, but the Vickers was added from "Parts". A lof of brass was added for the terminals of the "RAF-Wires" and other details. Have fun - I hope you will like it too, Frank Looks really like a Pup. Please note the open coolings of the Vickers: Please note the open tail with a wooden skid with scratched metal parts: I like the engine: And finally the view from below: In the open cooling vent the cylinders are visible: The end.
    5 points
  30. Hi guys, I will build a Mistel I in 1/32 scale. I will use a Revell/Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf-109 G2 as the leading airplane. For the flying bomb I will use the Revell Junkers Ju-88 A4 kit with the Aims Mistel I conversion set. I think I have some extra's for the Bf-109. I will place some foto's later. Cheers,
    5 points
  31. Hi, here are the promised pics form the orange Big-Banger. The kit was very crude and i made lots of parts by myself. At the end i got an nice looking car in my cabinet. Its not the best i ever build,but its ok. Here are some shots. I used mainly zero paints for the color and their 2k clearcoat to seal it. The mirrors are painted with that amazing chrome pens and the result is simply wow! Perfect for smaller parts and retouch factory chrome. Decals comes from my buddy Michael from scalemodeller.de. regards Christian
    5 points
  32. My chosen model is the Cyber Hobby Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-3 kit in the markings of the 21st Squadron (Fliegerkompanie 21) of the Swiss Air Force (Schweizer Fliegertruppe). The picture was taken during Summer 1940 at Emmen Air Base. J-377 has the large fuselage Swiss cross introduced in April 1940, but still the roundels under the wings from when the aircraft was delivered (J-313 behind it has the square underwing wakings introduced at the same time as the fuselage markings). J-377 was taken off charge on 28 December 1949 together with all the other remaining Me 109 DBs. Before you get stuck into me about the title, which you think should be Bf 109 E-3, the Emil was known in Switzerland as Me 109 DB and was so mentioned in official documents! And the Doras purchased at the same time were Me 109 Jumo ... Switzerland was the largest export customer of the Emil with a purchase of 80 aircraft, purchased in two lots of 30 and 50 aircraft between Mai 1939 and April 1940, produced at the "Werk Regensburg" (and an additional 9 built from spare parts later). I always wanted to build a Swiss 109 E, but never thought doing it in the large scale. Should be a straight forward build I thought, but reading Georg Hoch's excellent book on the Swiss Messerschmitt 109s (also published in English by Schiffer) made it clear that it will be far from a straight forward build! Why you may ask. well the Swiss purchased the Emils without any weapons and radios! The idea behind that was to fit locally manufactured weapons and radios. In addition, the gun sight was a Revi 3c , the fitted control stick was a KG 11 which was similar to British control sticks and the seat Harness was attached in a different way for whatever reason as well... In a 1/72 scale model. these details are hardly noticeable, but not so in 1/32. The story on the purchase of the Messerschmitt fighters is fascinating and I highly recommend to read Georg Hoch's book which is a great read filled with anecdotes on the Me 109 operation in Switzerland. The following information is from this book: When purchasing the DBs, it was undecided what weapon configuration to use on the unarmed aircraft. At the end it was decided to use two 7.45 mm Fl MG 29 with 960 rounds above the engine and one 20 mm FF-K Oerlikon with 60 rounds in each wing. Compared to the armament installed in German Bf 109E-3 consisting of two 7.92 mm MG 17 with 2000 rounds and one 20mm MG FF in each wing, the Swiss weapons have to be seen as a step back. They also needed several modifications on the airframe to be fitted and had to be loaded manually and not electro-pneumatic as was the case with the German weapons. The Fl MG 29 had been mounted without any off-set and closer together (300 mm compared to 340 mm) which needed modifications of the engine cover and a new ammunition storage and feed which resulted in reduced ammunition by over half compared to the German arrangement. In regards to the radio equipment, it was planed to fit a French radio produced under license in Switzerland. But production got delayed due to France being occupied by Germany. The radio became finally available in limited quantities by the end of 1941, but its performance was poor. Three Flieger Kompannien received the new Me 109 DB in 1939 and Fliegerkompanie 21 was one of them. Originally no special markings had been painted onto the new aircraft. During the war in France, it became o common occurrence that German aircraft flew into Swiss airspace, resulting in several aerial combats with Swiss aircraft including the 109s. The first German aircraft, a Heinkel He 111 was shot down on 10th of May and several more followed until early June. Under the pressure from the German government, the Swiss Air Force stoped attacking intruding aircraft there after. This resulted in very low spirit of the Swiss flying personnel. To lift the spirit, it was decided that it is now acceptable that the Fliegerkompanien are decorating their aircraft with the squadron markings - which was a sharkmouth for Fliegerkompanie 21. Enough about the history. I began this build over Easter - completely forgetting about this STGB coming up , but the progress is well below the 25% mark. The Cyber Hobby kit is apparently the most accurate 109 E in 1/32. As I love accessories I got a few too. My plan is to build the model with the engine covered, but incorporating all the modifications the Swiss aircraft had at the time the picture was taken in Summer 1940. But first some riveting was in place as the Cyber Hobby cit looks a bit bare when it comes to rivets - strangely there are some on the kit here and there. I used some drawings to mark where the rivets go. Some pictures are helpful too. Rosie the Riveter does most of the work. And it does make a difference - braking down the monotony of the large surface. The fuselage was next. And several days later, It was all done. Strangely, Cyber Hobby has positive rivets at several places where there shouldn't be any. The cockpit of the Swiss 109 E has some noticeable differences of which most are on the Instrument panel Most of the changes circled in red are for the weapons - Top to bottom, two pulleys to arm the two Fl MG 29. Don't know what the handle is at the right. Below is the FF-K cannon selection switch and the ammunition counter. Also note the KG 11 control stick I wanted to incorporate these changes on this build which needed a bit of scratch building. And all together. I also made the KG 11 control stick by using a CMK resin control stick intended for the Hawker Tempest. It was a reasonable starting point, but some modifications where needed. Not perfect, but close enough. That is where I am at the moment. Cheers, Peter
    5 points
  33. This is a little gundam bearguy that I finished a few weeks ago I had bought my daughter a few to build so I thought I'd have a go at one myself I painted it in ww2 Japanese aircraft colours and sprayed all markings on it I weathered it using oil paints and some humbrol dark earth pigments it was a fun little build and will definitely be building more of them
    5 points
  34. Hi George. Thank you very much for stopping by and for your very kind comments. Hopefully your Hurricane and Mustang will be easier to fit the motors into as there should be more space. Are your kits set up to accept the Airfix motors? If so that should make the job a little easier. Thank you very much Ced. Hi Ozzy and thank you. And thank you very much for your suggestion - I have now repainted the belts and pouches the correct colour! Hi Wolwe and thank you very much. I know this GB is all about the aircraft but I need a base and the following photos show today's progress. This where I had got to over several evenings this past week: This morning's work included painting the flowers and then installing the figures. I then made up some extra equipment and glued those in place too: Finally I did a test fit in the frame: I still need to make some spent cases and scatter them around behind the howitzer. I was thinking of adding some more figures but I think I will manage with just the two. Tomorrow I'm going to try installing the Mosquito on it's stand Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix
    5 points
  35. Thanks Cookie, especially for the 'slathered' paint tip! Thanks Nigel - great tips. I'll look for some Squadron putty. This is turning into one of those grrrr builds. Today it's two things; forgetting to insert the i/p before close up, despite all my efforts cutting grooves to accommodate it: so I cut the PE off the plastic and stuck that on as best I could: Secondly, the instructions say to 'remove the chrome paint' from the joins before glueing but make no mention of the fact that it will make the seams look worse as they get better: and show up scratches that aren't actually in the surface: Once I realised what was happening I stopped sanding and fitted the canopy:
    5 points
  36. Why do we do this to ourselves... Will try get some better comparison pics outdoors when the sun comes out... Laters.
    5 points
  37. The fact is this: A new Scimitar hasn't been released by anyone, because I'm guessing the tooling costs for a large, single user airframe don't currently justify the return on investment. If Airfix decide to go back into the 50's/ 60's jet market then the ONE model that will sell is the Hawker Hunter. Period, Full Stop. Multiple versions, worldwide and lengthy operator use. Academy are still reboxing their so-so ( and I'm being REALLY polite there) effort with new decals - so there is obviously a market. Personally I'd love a Scimitar - but then I'd love an F11F Tiger too - which, apart from the FJ2/3, is pretty much the last USN jet fighter to not have a mainstream IM kit ( even the Cutlass got that) - and given the fact that things with stars & bars probably still outsell things with RN on them worldwide, I'm not holding my breath for either. (And yes I have the FM kit before you ask or mention it) Jonners - occasionally perplexed at what is released and what's not.
    5 points
  38. Great kit. All I really did to it was blank off the interior that you couldn't see through the wing slots with plastic card. Landing gear was replaced with scratchbuilt brass tube. Main colours are Alclad magnesium and the blue is a home-brew concoction.
    4 points
  39. I've started and made some progress with Revell's reboxing of the ICM 1/48 Dornier 215 night fighter kit. I've added parts of the Eduard detail set. I painted over the RLM66 parts to make them blend in with the rest of the cockpit parts better. I also added 4 compressed air bottles to the nose. These are spares from an Eduard 110. The compressed air bottles can be seen in a cockpit photo of a 217 night fighter, so I'm not sure they were fitted to a 215 as well. The radios (left) are also from the Eduard 110 - these are much more detailed than what's offered in the ICM kit. I also replaced the ICM machine gun cartridges by spare Eduard items because the ICM parts look overscale. Left and right fuselage halves. The detail provided by the kit is somewhat sparse, and I actually found it a bit difficult to find the correct location for some of the components. Maybe I got spoiled by the engineering of the recent Airfix kits I've finished before this one. The fuselage put together. I've used the Vector resin corrected tail. Thanks for looking!
    4 points
  40. Savoia-Marchetti in German TGr. 10 colours - what on earth has that got to do with a Messerschmitt Bf 109 Single Type Group Build? A lot. When the 4:th Soviet Strategic Offensive was launched on 9.6.1944, the Finnish Air Force was seriously lacking in numbers of first line combat aircraft. Since the Finns (that´s us, btw) had earlier had some separate talks about saying bye to Germany and participation in the whole war, the Germans had restricted from supplying weapons etc. stuff because they had a doubt they´d not be put to decent use. When all the hell broke loose on the Karelian Isthmus, that didn´t come as a surprise to fighter units that had seen all the gathering of men and material beyond the stationary frontline - but the Army didn´t believe them. They thought Finnish front was a mere sideshow and all the major action would be put in reaching Berlin from the east before the west. Who´d be interested in us in that case? Uncle Joe was. He wanted to give our small nation a lesson and solidify his right flank before reaching Berlin. Some people say he also wanted to ease on the Germans so they could move troops to face the Normandy invasion and thus create a vacuum in the central eastern front section, where Operation Bagration would later make the Germans collapse. When the Summer Offensive breached through Finnish frontline and Soviet troops advanced several kilometers in a day, even Old Adolf understood the Finns needed arms and support. One major contributor in helping stop the Red Storm was the Gefechtsverband Kuhlmey. Delivering the ammunition and other supplies for its Stukas was the TGr. 10 with its S-M:s and Ju-52:s. It didn´t take long before someone got the idea that on their return leg, when flying empty to Germany, they could carry Finnish fighter pilots to Insterburg, then to ferry Messerschmitts back where they were needed. And ferry they did... more than 80 airplanes in less than two months. So here are ylikersantti (senior sergeant?) Leo Ahokas, his colleague in rank (later vääpeli or master sergeant) Eemil Vesa and kersantti (sergeant) Koski Keskinummi with a member of the Italian air crew (guess which one´s Italian ) at Lappeenranta airfield on the morning of 19.6.1944 on their way to Insterburg. Remarkably, they were back on the same day and took to battle with their new planes in the very early hours of the next day, 20.6.1944, the day the Finland lost Viipuri, its second largest city. Never to be given back... The third flight of the fighter squadron 24, 3./HLeLv 24 received eight Bf 109 G-6:s on that day. They were numbered consecutively from MT-436 to -443. I plan to tell you their story, and the story of the pilots that flew them. For me, on Finlands´ centennial year, this Group Build is my place to tell it to anyone who´s interested. I won´t model them all... but many of them. I shall be using AZmodel 1:72 scale kits. Best regards, V-P EDIT 020517: I´ll add fourth plane in this build. Even before the Winter War the Finnish Air Force adapted to tactics of 2-plane pairs and 4-plane patrols, later renamed swarms. Thus a trio or a "vic" just didn´t feel appropriate so I decided to go for a swarm of MT-436, -437, -439 and -441. To ferry her from Insterburg to Lappeenranta, here´s kapteeni (captain) Hans Wind on board the same Pipistrello his three NCO:s are. The one just boarding the plane is a Finnish reporter and the one on the right I believe is part of Italian air crew. Just to recycle some pics from the MTO GB, where I first planned to build these kits: And some superior sprue pics from an internet review of the AZ kits: Plenty of "options", read "spares": I do have both types of canopies: A pile of references from our public library, well not all of them: And finally (never mind the juvenile delinquent with a "Messerschmitts in Finland for 70 years" in his hand) there´s the real MT-452 that was on loan at Finnish Aviation Museum a few years ago. Best regards, V-P
    4 points
  41. This is my entry, I picked it up at the Middle Wallop show before Christmas. Not build an Eduard kit before, the box is has everything I will need, canopy masks, a selection of PE bits including instrument panel and seat belts. I'm going to Montex masks for the insignia as I did like how it all came out on my Mozzie, I'm going to do the Bf 109G-6, 2/JG 52, Zilistea, Romania, April 1944. The kit will be painted in the various grey colours the using the hairspray method apply a white wash. I'm looking out for an Airfix motor, as the kits @PlaStix has done with them look really good. I've also got some figures to go with it hopefully on a base I will pick up along the way. V-P hope you don't mind, I did a bit of photobucket stalking to find your banner.
    4 points
  42. They say that the best way to make sure you will do something is to tell people you are going to do it and then you feel obligated to get it done. In that spirit I am announcing that I will be building the Unicraft 1/72 Boeing Bird of Prey. The Bird of Prey, (named that because someone thought it resemble the Star Trek Klingon Bird of Prey, there is some documentation that it was designated YF-118G)was a late '90 secret stealth technology demonstrator which first flew in 1996 and after 40 flights was retired in 1999. Due to its secret nature it was not publicly revealed until October 2002. For more details see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_Bird_of_Prey. I like building weird or strange looking aircraft and the first time I saw a picture of it I knew I had to building it, so I did a web search and found that there actually was a kit of it in 1/72 buy Unicraft. I had never built a kit by Unicraft before so I bought it. It consists of 9 resin parts for the fuselage and wings and a resin slab for the landing gear. plus a clear canopy and decals. There is no interior, none, nothing. Note I got this picture off of their web sight since I forgot to get one before I started construction. If only may parts looked this good. What I got was warped and with huge amounts of flash and pin holes that made it look like Swiss cheaase, except I have never seen Swiss cheese with so many holes. Also the rear fuselage, (upper right) is shown here as a monolithic block. What I got was 2 pieces which looked like there hollowed out the block and then literally broke the top and bottom halves apart. I am not saying that this is the worst kit I have ever worked on, but I will take Mach 2 and Anigrand any day. Despite all that I should also say that I am grateful to have even that and will do my best to do it justice. So after much sanding and filling I have the fuselage assembled and the wings attached. Note that the front of the front landing gear opening has broken off and will need repair, both wings have broken in half and been reglued, the rear tip of the left wing is broken off and will need to be fixed, and the pi holes in both wing trailing edges. The wings still need to be blended in, but They will need to be straightened first. So after many dips in hot water I have gotten them this far; Which is a bit better. More to come, if it doesn't end up in the garbage, but I have suffered enough for now
    4 points
  43. This is the D-520 of capitaine Jacobi on his way to Syria in May 41, Brindisi. Yellow markings have been painted on the tail and spinner. L'Armée de l'Air fought hard in the Syrian skies and lost very competent personal when they were impossible to replace. Best regards.
    4 points
  44. My third build using the excellent Fights On sheet.
    4 points
  45. Theoretical board meeting continued... So Simpkins tell us more... Well there's this jet, it was only ever operated by the Fleet Air Arm and a few test units, to be honest, it was a bit of a lacklustre disappointment... So no foreign users in important markets like Sweden, the Middle East, Far East, Africa, South America, other European markets? Well no, says Simpkins Right then R&D, tell us more about this Hunter thingammy and why people would buy ours over the Academy kit?? Because we could break the mould down to include all the sub variants which would feed into the UK, Sweden, Dutch, Belgian, South American - Peru I think for the earlier versions, then with later versions we could cover the UK, Dutch, Swiss, Middle East, Far East including India, African markets, all over the world really and then if we did a two seater, well nobody's done one of those and we could easily clean up as most users had those too! Tell us more, good looking jet this Hunter? Definitely, R&D producing pictures of arguably one of the finest looking aircraft ever made... Simpkins slumps into his chair at this point knowing that the Scimitar would never win in a beauty competition with the Hunter So why will people buy our version of the Hunter? Well, they only buy the Academy because there's no choice, if we covered off all of the options and didn't make the same mistakes as Academy we could keep selling it for years and years and years to all of those important markets... Simpkins, you're fired!
    4 points
  46. Today's work complete, which means that the port side is now almost done - a few details to add, notably under the pilot's window, on the sponson and further aft on the boat hull. First, an unforgiving close-up of the forward port side: Second, a rather more representative view of the whole of the port side. Once weathered - still a fair way into the future, since the starboard side is barely touched yet, and the underneath not at all - I think this is going to give me exactly the look I was after (especially when things like the weapons wiring draws your eye elsewhere. Happy! More soon Crisp
    4 points
  47. Thanks Tony. I had seen 71chally's build and his great foil job. So today I thought that I would rip off the bare metal stuff and give it a go. Superb standard?? Oh dear.. Thanks 71chally for the vote of confidence, I'm afraid that I will never live up to that! I had seen your build and the wonderful foil application, but my problem was that I had no Humbrol 35 polyurethane varnish. I have lots of polyurethane varnish in the paint cabinet, but it's for woodworking projects and I thought it might not work to well on plastic. I figured that the varnish needed to be non-water/alcohol based to adhere to the aluminum foil. The only clear non-water/alcohol coating that I had was a bottle of Testers Dullcote. So I started with that. The problem with the Dullcote is that it's lacquer based and de-tacks really quickly. So it was hard to get the foil on at just the right time. Too late and the foil didn't stick., too early and it never seemed to dry. I did however learn that kitchen foil presents a much nicer surface than the batch of bare metal foil that I have! So remembering another build where the modeler used sheet pewter and some sort of contact cement, I thought that I would try contact cement. But the stuff I have is quite thick, so I thinned it a little with lacquer thinner...(see where this is headed? ) It seemed to work OK. I put the stuff on, letting flash off a bit and then lay on my bit of foil. I quickly discovered that foil is quite soft and easily marked. Especially if you get impatient and don't let the glue dry (probably overnight!; I bet varnish is faster!) You can see that the contact cement is way too thick: You can however remove the excess with a rubber cement eraser! But, the thinned down contact cement was extremely "hot" and quickly melted the styrene, so any attempt to reposition the foil meant scaring of the wing as well as marring the foil.. Which is where it stands now.. 5 patches done, 1 in recovery: The contact cement really was too thick and attempting to work the foil before the cement had setup was not such a good idea, note the deep rivets! So all in all, I think that I will order some Humbrol 35 just to see how it's supposed to work. I had also thought about using goldleaf sizing as it performs the same function albeit with gold leaf instead of aluminum foil. Thanks for putting up with my long winded update. Onward to Victory! Terry
    4 points
  48. I can't tell you how heartening it is to have three Britmodellers such as yourselves appreciate my efforts. HA! I try to use such strong terms only for the most important of matters, such as tiny 1/72 parts that are off by a mm or two.
    4 points
  49. Hi Steve........yeah I have a few ideas I want to try.........whether I get them all finished or not is another matter. First job this morning was to get the KV-1 washed so I took a few photos of what's in the box: ....and some of the individual sprues - there's two of this one: Metal lower hull: Decals: Knowing how I struggle with Tamiya decals I'm going to go with option A which doesn't use the big fancy ones but does have extra armour on the lower sides of the hull. The Appliqué armour sprue: The instructions: As I'd washed the KV-1 I was starting with these two this morning: ......specifically getting the wheels painted on these 4 identical sprues: I got them all painted but this is a photo of just one of the sets: I also got the plastic parts attached to the metal hull - there are a couple of differences: This afternoon I did make a similar start on the KV-1 - once it was dry - but no photos yet. More tomorrow I hope. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix
    4 points
  50. Thanks Jean, doesn't look so virginal now that the decals are on, and despite their age they went on really well. The only problem I had was with the residue from the adhesive that held the decals to the backing paper. I got around this by making sure that I cleaned all of that away before fixing them in place. Just all of the final details to add now (undercarriage doors, aerials etc.) and this one will be finished.
    4 points
×
×
  • Create New...