Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/07/16 in all areas

  1. Continuing with my theme of building aircraft I worked on during my time in the RAF. This is the Buccaneer from 1984-86 starting at the time the OCU moved from Honington to Lossiemouth. XX899 came from the RAFG fleet to the OCU. After going through the avionics update it was used by 12 Sqn and was one of the Granby aircraft, marked as P "Laser Lips Laura". I've built it in the war role fit for Pavespike designation. We went on many detachments to Laarbruch for maxivals or tacevals, practising the role. I had to source an AIM 9B Sidewinder and Lau 3B launcher for the self defence armament. Again I threw lots of aftermarket bits at it to hopefully improve the end result. I went through the usual well documented trials with this kit, but with sheer perseverance it was finished Along with the photographed AM stuff, the aircraft specific decals were made by Paul at Parkes682decals. Thanks for looking. Rob.
    37 points
  2. Well, here's #2 of my single type solo group build. This is the Italeri kit, which is up until recently the best MiG-29 in 1/72. Caracal's international MiG-29 sheet is awesome as usual, and I could not resist this beautiful blue scheme. I had meant to this to be an out-of-the-box build, but I found a picture of the Myanmar bird armed with S-8 rockets and I couldn't resist. grafted a pair of S-8 pods and pylon from the Hasegawa J-15 kit, and along the way I lost the clear sprue so I had to scratchbuild a new IRST lens and landing gear lights. The canopy seal is done with thin strips of white decal. An Indian Fulcrum is next!
    19 points
  3. Hello and welcome to my Honey I shrunk the De Havilland Vampire T.11, 1/72 The Gentleman's scale,RFI. I fell in love with this little fella while watching Phil’s build a few moths Months back , I simply had to build one, it had everything I wanted, a nice easy looking build with Silver and fluorescent paint. This would be my first time with both. The kit went together really well and The only additions were some Eduard belts and some scratch handles for the ejector seats, oh and a few little aerials here and there. It was a blast to build and I can highly recommend if you're looking for a fun little stop gap in between larger projects this is it. Thanks to everyone who helped and watched the WIP along the way. (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235004740-honey-i-shrunk-the-de-havilland-vampire-t11-172-the-gentlemans-scale/) I couldn’t have done it without you. , Most of the photos were taken this weekend as the sun was glorious giving a really nice light through our little sky light. I must have been having fun as I too nearly ninety pictures. I have whittled em down but there are still quite a few, I was playing with filters and the like. I hope you enjoy this RFI and if you're interested I have started a long haul project here. (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005731-massive-and-old-its-only-a-ruddy-grumman-ea-6b-prowler-148-by-airfix/) An old school Airfix prowler, It's a doosie. Any hoo enough of my jibber jabber here are the pics. Enjoy. There you go then. Onece again thank you for indulging me on this one. Have a lovely day and hopefully I'll share some chit chat on my next build. All the best, thanks for your time and as always. Happy Modelling. Johnny boy.
    14 points
  4. Good day, gentlemen. This is my next Zero, but from Tamiya. Kit is very very nice, just wonderful! Very recommended for everyone. I builded it only in one weekend.
    13 points
  5. An aircraft modeller's attempt on 'Heavy Metal'. After building Zvezda's Yak-3 'Snap Kit' I was so impressed by the quality and ease of build that I acquired some vehicles from their 'Snap Kit' range as well. Detail is sufficient, but not as good as with Dragon or Revell. Most suprising issue - there are no grab handles included. These are quite prominent on T-34s, so I added them from my spares box. The tow cable is from a Dragon kit. I really like Zvezda's design for the tracks, they come as one piece. You simply wrap them around the wheels. It's a good idea to dip it in hot water first. I didn't, and mine broke up, but were easy to fix with a drop of glue. I much prefer that system over the link-and-lenght tracks that I find very difficult to work with in small scale. I painted the model with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics (H80). The tarpaulin is a resin item from CMK. Exhausts were drilled open. Weathered with artists oils and pastel chalks. Thanks for your interest!
    12 points
  6. Morning folk's put the finishing touches to this one over the weekend,a 1/48 Warhawk was on the hit list at the recent Northern show but proved to be thin on the ground I was on my way back to pick up a Monogram kit I,d seen when I spied this AMT one for a tenner.The decals were beyond help so I ordered a set from the big H.I always admire Russ C's Warhawk builds hence the kit but also some of the different far east schemes too so on the sheet was an "N" flown in 1945 by Cpt. Wang Kuang Fu,7th F.G. 3rd F.G. of the Chinese air force.A nice kit to build,some beautiful engraving the only part I didn't like was having to cut out a section of the fuselage for the extended glazing but I just about managed!Thank's for looking in.
    10 points
  7. Hi All, Its been a while since my last RFI (Airfix Meteor). Still been busy at the workbench just not been able to find the time to share the results with you. So to address the situation here is my take on the Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 in 1/48th. The build will feature in a future issue of Scale Aircraft Modelling (SAM) so just a few teaser shots as always. Another nice kit from Kinetic and an enjoyable build. Thanks for looking, Rick G.
    10 points
  8. Hi Folks here are a few photos of my entry for the recent Hawker Hunter Group Build. This is the Revell 1/72 Hunter F Mk 6 kit back dated to an F Mk 1 using various aftermarket parts and decals. More details can be found in the WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235000770-a-hunter-from-fife-finished/ Not one of my best but it fills a hole in the display cabinet. Duncan B
    10 points
  9. Another Bf-109 finished - this is the Finemolds K4 boxing "Hartmann's Last Combat". Rob Taurus vacu canopy and Eduard photo etch added. Pitot tube from Master Models. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics. Being over-ambitious, I pretended I could mask and spray the 'Black Tulip'. I soon realized that I could not achieve any straight lines with Tamiya tape due to all those bumps and warts on the 109's nose. In the end I settled for the kit's decals. They were rather thick and didn't confirm to the contures well. I had to use generous amounts of setting solution, which in return caused the decals to 'melt' and I was facing the same problem of shaky lines again. Touch-ups were done freehand, using Vallejo paints. Thanks for lookin'! Have a good day! Roman
    10 points
  10. Been quietly working away on the surface finish these last few days. Bit of elbow grease has blended in the wing roots and I'm pleased with the way that the wing root extensions I added at the rear have blended in: The joint lines on the top are invisible now: And it's as neat as I can make its around the flap bays on the underside: That brings me to the wretched NACA ducts. Each Hawk has five of the darned things. Two underneath the centre fuselage, one either side of the tail and one on the nose. Those who've had the patience to stay with this thread may recall the discussion about how best to replicate them. Silvano has a great method - but you have to work from the inside to use that. CT has experimented to good effect using heated brass wire to press in the shop.. Me - I've tried it by shaping the end of some brass strip into a NACA shape ( triangle with curved sides) and the heating the strip and pressing it into the model . Two different sizes/shapes: Well it worked on plasticine! Heat up the end of the brass with a spirit burner: Practice on a scrap wing. Scary - but promising: Deep breath - and try it on one of the precious ones. First mark out the correct position. Only get one shot at it! Heat the brass strip and plunge it carefully in. I found it best to take it slowly and apply the heated strip a few times. First time - when the strip is not too hot - just to mark the position and then a couple of more times gradually applying a bit more pressure to deepen the duct and I angled the strip slightly to make the duct deep at the back than the front: Trim back the overflow. Starting to look ok: Sand it flush: I'm calling that a success Two down and eight to go........
    10 points
  11. I live next to one of the world's largest freshwater lakes, so sans the fish and chips (which were delicious when I was in the UK), that's a pretty normal day spent looking for sea glass with Mrs. P. I have never heard of a parmo before as they don't serve them here, but clearly I've been missing out. Mrs. P and Winston are back, and now Winston seems to have hundreds of teeth, which he uses to bite his mother whenever he gets excited. Here's my son, king of the goblins, astride his charger: And here he is moving tactically in partial cover with his wagon: He can't walk unassisted, but that awful day draws close. He currently calls everything "dadadadadadada", as his main influence is the French dadaist school*. He's already created several major new artworks in his nappy since getting home. More work on the Hunter soon, maybe? *= NB I find the real dadaists a little tiresome, so it's a fitting punishment for them that they had to be saved from Hitler's killers and Mussolini's thugs by all those dreary old bourgeoisie values supported by a mighty host of tanks, planes, bombs, etc.
    10 points
  12. Evening all, I've now completed my Stuka as per the following build thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998686-148-revell-junkers-ju87b-2-stuka/ It's the Revell boxing, built OOB save for Eduard fabric seatbelts (I'll revert to PE in future - I didn't get on so well with these to be honest) and an Eduard Brassin MG15 machine gun to replace the kit item. Paints are all Colourcoats, but I used Humbrol clear coats. The stencils and crosses were from the Revell decal sheet. The ID markings and nose art were from an old FCM Battle of Britain decal sheet, and the Swastikas were from Xtradecal. The aerial is Infini Model Lycra Rigging Line, Fine / 70 denier (0.091mm diameter). Sorry about the indoor photos, but the light is starting to fade and I wanted to post this tonight for personal reasons.
    9 points
  13. Hi guys this is my lates work. It's a second part Of my twin build. This is Polish tank from september 39 build on British Vickers tank license. Model is from Mirage hobby and in 1/35 scale. I have also used aftermarket pe parts and friul tracks. For painting and weathering I have used Hatak paint and ak,mig oil and weathering products. let me know what you think coz I'm planning to make another o e but single tower version. cherrs Pawel And with armoured vehicle wz 34
    9 points
  14. This is my last built. The story of the plane: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PZL_P.1
    9 points
  15. Hi all, My B 26 Invader is now completed. For those who know the kit, I will not repeat the good and bad sides of it. So far, it is a very well detailed Invader with a good rendition of the cockpit, a complete bomb bay, etc. My choice went to the plane flown by Tony Curto during the Korean conflict in 1951. Here it is : I did my model OOB, I just added the seat belts and the wing tips lights, that's all . Just before the photo session, I discovered that a tiny bit of plastic ended between the windshield and the dashboard. Since it was impossible to take the canopy away without risking to have definitive damages, I decided to modify an AIRES figurine, scratchbuild a ladder and put between his hand and the windshield a shaped bit of play doh to figure the cloth. Here are a few more pics, the challenge was to airbrush the kit with different tones of black and off-black in order to match the few pictures of Invaders in Koprea I found on the web. The Jeep is from ACADEMY and the other guy watching is a metal figure( I don't remember the origin). Critics and comments welcome, Pierre.
    9 points
  16. Unavailable at the time as a single kit, this was sent to me by a friend/modeler from Australia. The model was painted with MM enamels, and rigged with .005 Ethicon stainless steel surgical wire. All decals are from the kit. The rudder stripes are air brushed. The build itself was fairly simple. The parts fir very well. I have since added the windscreens. (OOOPS!!)
    8 points
  17. Finished at last... Model of Gato - class submarine, converted (more or less)to Balao-class, to be precise to USS Pampanito in markings used during making "Down periscope!" movie where she starred as a USS Stingray SS-161...Whew... Model is old Revell from 1988 in sick 1/185 scale (probably, modellers are arguing about that ) to which I bought conn tower with accesories from Mautilus Models company. Sadly, a tragic quality lead to using only half of conn tower. USS Stingray was painted with Tamiya paints, weathered with Tamiya sticks and washes, pastels, Rennaissance oils and good, old Humbrols. Decals on bow is my print and the number on the conn tower was taken from sheet for Bremen frigatte, also Revell. And now you can beat me for all that I've made wrong with this one
    8 points
  18. Then, the upper side... The camouflage is Revell Revell 374 medium grey and Revell 146 nato oliv For the nosecone RAL 9003 white and RAL 6007 bottle green 4 hours of masking, painting and corrections, followed by clear coat and the first decals Please excuse my for the bad quality of the pics! Oliver
    8 points
  19. Young Winston looks mighty fine on his charger. I see he is working on his 'evil deeds are afoot' hand rub Allow me to introduce you to the Parmesan or 'Parmo'. Currently due to various export (and H&S) restrictions it is only to be found in Teesside* unless you can obtain a black market version elsewhere in the more salubrious areas of the North East. Basically it is a chicken fillet, butterflied and spread out until it is the size of a small dinner plate (unless you request a 'Ladies Parmo' which is the size of a tea plate) then coated in breadcrumbs and then liberally coated with bechamel sauce, upon which a layer of cheese is then added (not Parmesan, usually cheddar) and then fried until golden. This delicacy is then served with a decent portion of chips and a side salad (in the interests of healthy eating of course). The last one I ordered from my local take away came in a 9 inch pizza box, and the chap had to fold the edges over because it wouldn't fit in! the chips and salad are supplied in another box as they won't fit in with the chicken. Originally it was only available in take-aways, but over the last few years has found its way onto the menu in pubs and even the odd restaurant. *Teesside, A large conurbation straddling the river Tees down river from Stockton-on-Tees.(Stockton used to be classified as County Durham and was home to the worlds first passenger carrying railway) It used to have a Steel industry, and a large chemical industry, and various Ironworks, alas all now gone, It was from here that the Steel came for the Sidney Harbour Bridge, and I am led to believe the bridge over San Francisco Bay (If you believe Chris Rea, a one time Teessider) I hope that hasn't frightened you off wanting to come over
    7 points
  20. Two more done. Six to go So far so good..... Actually - it's not so scary if you just slowly heat up the brass master and try it against the model periodically - there comes a point when it's hot enough to leave an initial mark/slight indentation but only with firmish pressure - so it's quite controllable. Then once the initial indentation is made the fear of misalignment the master recedes a bit and so you can get it hotter and make the duct deeper. Gettit?
    7 points
  21. Hi again, Here's the update of work done on Sunday. Since the beginning of this build, I've been thinking about the best way of assembling and painting the tail wheel and its supporting structure. These are the plastic parts, but there's also a PE part to apply which is still in the fret: The problem is how to avoid seams between the two parts that make up the supporting structure, while making painting easy and minimising the need for touch ups. I finally decided that I would assemble the supporting structure before painting. However, this makes installing the wheel impossible, unless the locating pins for the wheel in the structure are removed and some kind of axis is created for latter installation of the wheel. So, I started by assembling the structure: The locating pins were removed and a piece of 1 mm-diameter plastic rod was used for creating a new axis: The seams in the supporting structure were taken care of and the PE part was also glued in place: Here are the parts glued to toothpicks, in preparation for priming and painting: After painting I'll insert the axis in the wheel and cut it to the right size, so that it slides in place within the supporting structure for the wheel. Some ultra-thin glue should make it stick in place and only minor touch ups to the painting should be needed. Next, I glued the following parts to toothpicks, in preparation for priming and painting. Here we have the main gear parts and wheels and the bombs: I'll prime the bombs without the fins, as these are made up of PE. In this way I'll be able to check the seams in the bombs and repair them if needed, without damaging the PE fins. Only after making sure the seams are perfect will I install the PE fins and, then, prime the complete bombs. While I was doing the work above, I applied several layers of CA to the ejector pin marks inside the rear fuselage, in the area of the tail wheel well. I let each CA application fully cure before applying the next. When the cured CA seemed to be level with the surrounding surfaces, I sanded the excess with wet & dry and managed to make the marks almost invisible: I also used plasticard to fill in the holes due to the stubs which will hold the tail plane: Then, I intended to install a piece of plasticard at the back, so that the interior of the fuselage could not be seen from the fuel dump opening at the rear. Looking for pictures of the real aircraft, to see how I should do this, I found these: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=21808&p=174550 http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=21808&p=174551 The rear fuselage was fully hollow but it's not clear if there was a solid rear bulkhead blocking the view from the fuel dump inside. However, seeing the inner structure of this area, I decided to make an approximate representation of the bulkheads and ribbing, using strips of plasticard. I started by building the bulkhead seen in the second photo of the real aircraft, which separates the wheel well from the rear of the fuselage. The insides of the plastic strips still need some rounding with a round file: I also started to install a rear bulkhead. The excess plastic will be cut once the glue has fully cured: After finishing the bulkheads, I'll apply some ribbing. For the bulkheads I cut strips from a 0.5 mm-thick sheet of plasticard. For the ribbing I'll use a sheet of 0.25 mm-thick plasticard. I didn't manage to reach the priming stage but I couldn't resist this small exercise of scratch building Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
    6 points
  22. Hello ! In this wip i will build this SU-27 (sorry for big pic) Some photos (i added cables on landing gears) And the rest (sorry for the quailty of photos, i've made them with Iphone) Now i'm waiting for K-36M seat from Pavla and Correct Nose. I know i need to paint one place in cockpit.
    5 points
  23. This is my attempt at mashing the revell 962 kit with a tamiya 956 kit to get a le man style 962 without buying the very rare and almost ridiculously priced resin trans kit. There are inaccuracies with shape and parts that I either didn't add or take away but overall I am happy with my first attempt at this kind of project and it will definitely help with future builds of porsche 962 or 956s and probably a few other kits. So here it is all weathered and grime up I tried to mix up some very thinned clear orange and yellow paint to simulate fuel damage paint but it was a tad bit too thin and as soon as the brush touched the body it went everywhere And finally added a bit of battle marks with a spare wheel I have Thanks for looking Shaun
    5 points
  24. Some of the photos on this page might make for a very novel diorama: http://www.invisibleworks.co.uk/ghosts-eastern-front/ Monochrome paintwork anyone?
    5 points
  25. Thanks Keith and Oddball - nice memories, thanks for sharing. Hi Benedikt - "Stuka strings"? I'll bear in mind the rod idea; do you think it needs it? Great link to the walkarounds - thanks. Hi Jon - nice to have you along Thanks Tony - there are some nice Sunderland builds on BM but I'll take your advice on the Airfix one (one day!) Turret, turret, turret... hang on (one, two three...) turret. Tedious. The ball turret has a couple of pegs on its mounting rod and I initially thought these were to stop the thing going through the mount: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I don't think they are and may need to come off later, but I've cleaned up the rest. The clear wouldn't fit properly without scraping some plastic from the back of the ball: but it's OK(ish) now. Awful clear parts... I think this will have to be a dirty model. The front guns required a little encouragement to go on the shaft: and you can see in that shot that the front of the turret was bent inwards, as I discovered when I dry fitted the clear part and thought "Huh?". Carefully bent outwards now. To cap it all, the top of this turret (see what I did there?) doesn't fit at all: ... yet. I've had enough of them for tonight though. More tomorrow.
    5 points
  26. Looking again at the resin aftermarket stuff I managed to acquire, I'm still not 100% ready to bite the bullet and chop the kit up any more. However, in one of my more common 'doh! moments I finally figured out how the resin part had to be aligned (the instructions really are not great!) Trust me to go and glue the wings together only last Thursday! Of course I should have RTFM before I did anything but where's the fun in that? By the looks of it, I need to cut way more off the top half of the wing than I do from the bottom half. That's a job for a rainy day... and some liquid bravado. I must warn you at this point that the remainder of this post is taken up with only one subject, so it might get a bit boring for all you thrill seekers out there. However if all you're looking to do is kill some time on a Sunday afternoon then you might just survive the graphic tale that follows. Now that the engine was fitted inside the cowling and it is all reasonably sturdy. There remained one job (well, two actually, the second job is to fit the last of the cowling latches/hinges/strengthening brackets - well three jobs if you count painting..... damnit!... Four if you count fitting it to the fuselage) - Well, the ONE job that was giving me a bit of a nightmare and more than a bit of a headache was fitting, or more accurately, making, and fitting the cooling gills. The Eduard etch set comes with a set of cooling gills but they were for the Mk III - which has the shorter gills in front of the driver. When I checked them, they were also a little short for what I needed. So, my option was to use some of the Eduard set and make up the remainder, or make my own from scratch, and hope for the best. I had spent many hours over the last week figuring out how each one of those stupidly little panels was going to be held in place... my most promising idea being to line each of the panels up side by side, then solder a very thin diameter brass rod along the bottom edge. Then it should just be a simple process of folding the wire at each panel edge.... however there was also a few downsides and I wasn't fully on board with that idea. After considering many options, I decided to go the simple route. I took a thin slice of what was left of the original cowling, then filed around the outer edge trying to reduce the outer diameter - I wanted it to be a nice loose fit inside the brass cowling (into which I had cut a small, millimeter or so, recess a few weeks back) - why ??? Well, so I could jam these home made cooling gills into place between the inner plastic ring, and the outer, brass cowling - or anyways... that was my idea. Checking the reference drawings I determined that the gills needed to be 5mm in length, so, using 0.005" brass sheet I marked off a line at 5mm width, scored a couple of times with the knife, then, another line at 7mm width, and again scored a few times with the knife. At this point I didn't want to separate the marked out strip from the main sheet. Now, I can't remember how I arrived at the final width of the gills... I did do a few basic calcs - I think the circumference in the ID of the brass cowling was around 87mm in length, then divided that by 18 (total number of gills) which ended up that each gill needed to be around 4.83mm in width. I set my calipers to 4.83mm and started (praying, and) scoring lines - actually, I scored one line with the caliper, followed it with the knife a few times - then a simple fold back and forth and the "gill" broke off. So now I had a bunch of small panels, each 7mm x 4.83mm with a line scored at 2mm in from one edge. I could then slot each gill into the gap between the plastic ring and the brass cowling. You can just see the scored line at the base of the gill on the extreme right in this photo. (more on that later) Later that evening, I had a full compliment of cooling gills! The one gill missing in the shot below is where the exhaust will sit. - I just hadn't got around to fitting that oen yet when I took the photo. Of more concern was the fact that I now had a total of 18 little brass gills..... AND THEY ALL FITTED !!!!!! How on earth did that happen ???? I fully expected to have to make this lot at least twice before getting anywhere near a good fit. Getting them all in place with a good fit all round on the first attempt is just totally unbelievable! Now, why did I score each panel at 2mm ? Well, it was so I could bend each of the gills to open up the cowling - A lot of the photo's I have show the gills in the open position when the Lysander is parked up. So I removed all the gills (above), placed them in my photo etch bender, then added the bend - adjusted by eye more than anything, until it looked about right. They were then placed back in the cowling.... You can see here where each gills meets it's neighbor down at the plastic ring - I just can't believe how lucky I got this time around. (The 2 grubby looking things are bits of what used to be blue-tac in a former life, helping hold the plastic ring in place) Once I was happy with the fit. spread, location, etc. etc. etc. I dribbled some epoxy glue around the inside to hold the plastic ring in place, left it overnight, then this morning, I adjusted all the gills to try and get a uniform opening angle Viewed from t'other side (- still have the strengthening brackets to fit each side of the exhaust. ) After all that, and a fleeting and rare feeling of euphoria - I came back down to earth with a bump - I still had all the spacers, or whatever they are called to fit between the cooling gills. Again I looked at the Eduard stuff, but I didn't like them - I felt they were too thin. After trying a couple of scraps, I ended up going with 1.25mm for the width of each strip. I also chose to go from 0.002" (shim stock) for the strips. I cut one long 1.25mm wide strip then cut each segment off at 5mm length. The act of cutting a strip only 0.002" thick deformed the ends, so I had to burnish them all flat again. Here I managed to get 2 of them in place using the dreaded notso-super glue. It was the only option I really had here. I may try and reinforce the joint with some epoxy glue later but I don't think it will have much effect as there's just not enough area for the glue to work on. I already knocked two or three off and had to redo them. I am now leaving it for the day to give the glue a decent chance to try and hold things together - but I did get it all finished! (exhaust held in place temporarily by some grubby blue-tac again) and a quick test to see how it looks... difficult with the green plastic against a green mat, but at least it gives an idea.... Now the thought of painting it absolutely terrifies me - I generally like to give brass a good rub with some wire wool before I prime and paint, however, if I as much as put some wire wool on the bench in the general vicinity of this thing, then I know bits of brass are going to start falling off everywhere. ... and with that I am done for the day
    5 points
  27. A good step forward in my eyes............. Seascape painted. Multiple shades of green, blue grey etc. Covered with artist acrylic paste for texture, which dries transparent et voila ! A nice bright sunny day in the Med, well to my eyes.... Still need to blend in the boat and dinghy when I'm ready to fix them. Probably be some light washes and a bit of white on disturbed water at that point. Started gathering together some window dressing for the quayside. Bow is showing a captured Kubelwagon by Academy, stern a Bedford 'Tilly' from Airfix. An assortment of oil drums, jerry cans (German& US) plus British flimsys all by Millicast. Thanks for looking in Kev
    5 points
  28. Good evening I would like to present you my last completed model The Airfix Mustang in the markings of Capt John Voll an ace with 21 kills http://acepilots.com/usaaf_mto_aces.html#Voll I replaced the seat by a Quickboost one and Lifelike decals Patrice
    4 points
  29. Here is my bash at the Airfix BE2c. Straight OOB. Went together really well and looks a nice little machine. The boxing has two options that flown by William Leefe Robinson of 39 Squadron RFC, in which he shot down a Zeppelin. I chose the RNAS option which doesn't identify the squadron but is the Royal Naval Air Squadron East Fortune, East Lothian, December 1916. I chose this one due to my FAA/RNAS interests, the option for the rockets on the struts and the fact I had worked a little at East Fortune Hospital, which is on the same basic site, back in the '80's. The WIP can be found http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235003821-be2c/page-1 . As said straight out of the box using one set of the transfers provided. I used Revell Aqua Olive Green for the PC10 and Citadel Bleached Bone with a touch of yellow for the Linen. Had a bash at natural wood which is variable. No rigging as life's too short. I like it and it's a good build, had fun doing it. Foliage deliberate (or possibly optional)
    4 points
  30. Here is my Airfix Spitfire F Mk.22 finished today. My build rate is painfully slow and finished kits are rare as hen's teeth so when I found myself last weekend wife and family free I thought I would see if I could get this done before they came home. In the end I failed to meet my self-imposed deadline but I still managed to complete it in less than a week. I thought the kit itself was great and any problems were of my own making. It went together really well and was built OOB with just an Eduard etch harness added.The only fly in this ointment was the poor quality of the clear sprue which was full of bubbles and neither of the canopies was useable with one of them badly short shot. The canopy is the better of the two and is temporarily fitted until a replacement arrives from Airfix. Overall, I'm happy with the results although there are several issues which prevent me from being totally satisfied but as I said, they were all of my own doing. Thanks for looking. WIP here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235000594-spitfire-f-mk-22-can-i-build-it-in-a-day-fail/
    4 points
  31. First CADs: https://www.facebook.com/avantgardemodelkits/photos/ms.c.eJwzMzE0NjMwMbA0NjMyNDLWMwPzjS3NDIwszC0NYXwLCN8IAOMKCYE~-.bps.a.641360369362127.1073741863.279694855528682/641360409362123/?type=3&theater V.P.
    4 points
  32. Latest news. Here are some shots of the first AIM72 Stereolithography (SLA) parts for the B2 conversion. The undercarriage will come in separate parts, I've been informed that the SLA version shown here is only being used to test the fit of the undercarriage in the pod. The fuselage parts are being slightly adjusted to improve the fit. The jig block is to allow accurate placement of the pods on the wings in relation to the fuselage. This will allow the correct 'sit' of the aircraft. Once final fettling for fit is completed, the parts will be cast in resin & white metal. XVTonker
    4 points
  33. Just finished this build earlier today, it's the old Monogram boxing of this kit from the early 80s, so raised panel lines and not much cockpit details, but I think it built up into a nice kit. I got a set of decals from a Revell boxing of the same kit for a Cobra used in the first Gulf War from another member here on BM (thank you!) and I painted it with Mr Paint and Mr Hobby paint. The only aftermarket was a Master 3 barrel 20mm cannon which was tricky to build but looks good I think. The most disappointing result is the turbine exhaust which defeated my attempts to get rid of it's seam line completely, if I build another one of these kits I think I'll splash out on the resin replacement by Werner's Wings in the States. The build thread can be seen here.
    4 points
  34. Hiya Folks, Here is my second 1/72nd Mossie,..... this is the Hasegawa kit wearing post war markings for a 21 Sqn aircraft based in Germany; Brush painted using Polly Scale MSG & Dk. Green with Humbrol silver, trainer yellow and black,... and main decals came from Dutch Decals Kits at War, with under wing serials from Model Decal and roundels and fin flashes from Xtradecal. Cheers Tony
    4 points
  35. there is a very real danger I may be able to contribute some actual knowledge here I just looked closely at the plan and copy a few sections of it below the title of the plan threw me first by saying '1 each per aircraft' so I thought this drawing (37941) was one of two - plus at the bottom of the title is a note saying Type2/B (so there must be an 'A'? indicating this was a drawing of one of the two radiators... however, the other circled areas show annotations about where things are different for Port or Starboard - eg the access hatch you mention says 'Assembled on inboard side of starboard fairing and outboard side of port fairing' the vertical circled bits basically call out 'Port' or 'Starboard' for rivet details & stiffeners- all of which leads me to conclude that there is one unit that is different as noted for each side.. ta-daaaaa - I take a bow that or wait for someone to tell me what I missed / don't know , but thats the way it looks to me edit - not quite - see below... Peter
    4 points
  36. greetings everyone, time for the first update I shall let the pictures do most of the talking as they're pretty much self explanatory As you can see, I will be adding some wiring/plumbing to the landing gear to add some interest. I wont go crazy Will be back once I have done something worth showing Thanks for looking MH
    4 points
  37. Hi everyone Computer dramas, terminal as it transpires, has meant waving goodbye to my trusty Acer and Windows 7, replaced by an Asus and Windows 10 - neither of which I am particularly enjoying! Whilst I'm sure all the familiar functions and whatever are still available, they are not where I expect to find them and I'm getting too old to play 'hide and seek' Anyway, I'm able to post again, so here is a catch-up.... The Eduard 'E' is annoying me now, very much like its 1/48 cousin, there are some fit issues. Engine nacelles to wings, wings to fuselage and nose to fuselage joints are not as precise as you might expect based on how impressive it was in the early stages, so its been put to one side until I'm feeling a little more motivated. The Airfix 'C' has moved on a little, the remainder of the 'summer' scheme is on... ....followed by some decals... . .....followed by some 'whitewash' Lots of first attempts with unfamiliar techniques here, but overall I'm pretty happy with what I've achieved so far. Cheers for now Craig
    4 points
  38. Joined the fuselage halves: I've also made a start on the cockpit bits and I've realised that I forgot to paint the bit behind the cockpit that's aluminium. Back to work, after a fortnight's leave, tomorrow and I can't say I'm looking forward to it.
    4 points
  39. What you do when you're just not happy with the masking of a small section of the canopy frame. This is one of the reasons why this build is taking much longer than anticipated. All came out well in the end. The arms for the movable leading edge slats were cut from rather stout aluminum from a pie pan, then superglued in place. The approximate positions were then marked on a bit of Post-It-Notes and the lengths indicated by black paint. They were then snipped with sprue cutters. The advantage of the aluminum is that the positions can be easily adjusted when the slats are glued in place. Here are some of the doo-dads in the rear cockpit. The rim was made from .015" solder, bent around a template. I initially tried wire but it was too inflexible. On the other hand the solder is almost too flexible. I gently stuck it on another Post-it-Note for painting. Fortunately it came off intact and unbent. After attaching the bits with diluted white glue, they were highlighted by dry brushing with light grey oil paint, then overcoated with Vallejo satin. I did have some Vallejo Air satin, which works much better than the regular top coats. Approaching the final stretch. She's on her wheels now and it's on to the remaining fiddly bits.
    4 points
  40. Thanks for the best wishes gents, much appreciated! I've got a bit more done and the amorphous blobs are starting to look like something recognisable at last. After joining the fuselage halves the first job was to fill the gaps and sand the fuselages to the correct final shapes. Thanks to all the work I did earlier they weren't too far off. There was a slight lip under the D.II which was taken care of with filler, and the fuselages were sanded square with constant checking against a metal square. I had sanded the D.I nose a little too round underneath so I have added some milliput there and when it's set I will sand it to the correct shape. I made the mistake of thinking the nose was rounded but in fact the sides are straight and the underside is flat - I just needed to round the corners! The turtledecks have been added behind the cockpits and blended in at the front with Mr Dissolved Putty. a little more tweaking is required but nothing major. I then added a strip of .010"x.10" to either side of the D.II nose. This gave me a nice straight edge to the top panel, and I filed the sides down with a small 1/2 round file to give me the "lip" so evident at the sides of the upper panel on these early Fokkers. The side panels were cut from .005" sheet and attached with Plastic-Weld. Once that is properly dry they will be sanded at the top edge to blend them in with the strips added earlier. Thanks for looking in. Ian
    4 points
  41. So, my turn to build this kit. I have to say, this was a very nice kit and an enjoyable build. Built completely OOB with exception of aftermarket pink window sealant decals and instrument decals. The main paint scheme and cockpit emerald was painted with Akan paints. This was my first time using this brand, and I love them! Sprays beautifully and creates a nice finish. Metal parts were painted with Vallejo Metal Color. Here is my critique of the build: The good: Fit- The fit of parts was excellent. The only couple of fit issues I experienced were of my own doing. Detail- This kit has an exquisite level of detail straight from the box. I see no need for aftermarket resin or PE. Decals- The kit decals were phenomenal. They were thin with very transparent carrier film. They laid down very nice with Microset. Microsol was only used on those decals that were over panel lines or raised areas. Engineering- This kit sets the bar for ease of assembly. With one piece missiles and slide molded nose, this kit is state of the art. It goes together in such a fashion that I did not even have to pull out the scriber! There are almost no seams to fill, other than very few very small areas. And now, the not so good: - For such space age engineering, there was quite a bit of minor flash on most parts. In addition, all parts have very large mold lines that were a pain to remove. Some were so large that it affected fit if they were not removed. - The gear legs are molded in halves that require joining, and as a result, a near impossible seam to remove without sanding away detail. The gear legs need to be one piece. This is probably the worst part of this kit, in my opinion. - No seatbelts included - No instrument decals; the gauges in the instrument panel are blank. It would be nice for decals to be included or the gauge detail to be molded in. These few items aside, this is a wonderful kit. It can be made into a show winner straight from the box. Without further ado, here are the pics. Enjoy!
    3 points
  42. Pleased with the results on the back of hawk no. 2 as well: And managed to get them adequately symmetrical (BTW I know the exhaust hole in the top is off centre - I did it that way deliberately. Remember?) It's the one on the nose of each hawk that I'm not looking forward to doing....
    3 points
  43. Ah well. Easy enough actually Giorgio I bought two thicknesses of 6.35mm wide brass strip some time ago when the idea first occurred to me. One strip 0.81mm thick and the other 1.63mm. These thickness approximated to the width of the NACA ducts on the top and underneath the fuselage. I then just cut the end of a piece of strip down from 6.35mm to the length (about 2mm or so) of the NACA duct using my Dremel with the a diamond cutting disk. I then filed the ends to a triangle profile. And then filed in the slight curves on the edges of the triangle using the rounded back of my Tamiya diamond PE file. About 20 mins to half an hours work on each one - so now so bad. I'll keep em in the tool box now - who knows I might get to use them again some time
    3 points
  44. I can leave for the airport now. I don't need anything here anymore.
    3 points
  45. Well, about seats, the first two-seater Mirage F1 was Mirage F1BK for Kuwait, prototype was equipped with Mk.6, but after that, except for ecuadorian and libyan two-seaters, Mk.10 was used. No Mk.4 at all ! OK ! - the grid just behind the cockpit on the port side has to be erased starboard side : grid ! https://www.flickr.com/photos/tony-roch/6172414594/sizes/l port side : no grid !! https://www.flickr.com/photos/antoniozamora/9887456726/sizes/l - the scoops just below of the leading edge of the wings should be grids in two-seater version single seater (here in spanish version) : http://hunavia.freeweb.hu/AIRSHOW/KE2010/MirageF1Kecskemt2010/photos/photo82.jpg two-seater : http://www.master194.com/photo_avion/mirage-f1b/pages/cimg4804_jpg.htm - fill the four holes just below the canopy on the starboard side : they are supposedly for ladders, but, it should be only on port side ! port side, four holes : http://www.master194.com/photo_avion/mirage-f1b/pages/cimg4796_jpg.htm Here with ladders ! http://www.hottail.nl/basevisits/2005/0611-Cazaux/Images/France-Other/MirageF1B-33FS-509-1.jpg starboard side, no holes ! http://www.hottail.nl/basevisits/2004/0629-EuropeanTrainersMeet/Images/MirF1-FAF-cs-cockpit.jpg Yes ! - panels on the backbone, just behind the rear canopy, are false... they could be re-engraved... hard to find... https://d31asmy75eposw.cloudfront.net/full/4/16885_1379782127.jpg https://www.flickr.com/photos/antoniozamora/9819328804/sizes/o/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/126023802@N05/14630636305/sizes/o/ (with some distortion... Mirage F1 in the foreground - with red stripes on the tail fin is a two-seater) http://img.over-blog-kiwi.com/0/64/42/44/20160624/ob_a5eae8_2015-asap-075-001-016.jpg http://www.fox-two.com/plans-im/53-mirageF1B-02.jpg Hope this is helpful... !
    3 points
  46. Now that's one very fine Lego Sunderland TT
    3 points
  47. so, a little update and a steep learning curve.. many, many thanks - that makes a lot of sense and really helps me understand what I am looking at and what I need to do - will have a good look round those links . Also I forgot my books! I think I have the SAM one - I certainly have a few that are going to have drawings.. first - the very first thing I have ever made on a lathe - a little pipe union from some hex stock turned down to look like one I see in Tony's photo's - I slid it on some lead wire and covered in heat shrink tubing.. ..much to learn, but really pleased I have one now and the opportunities it offers ..I laid the piping in the well as a dry fit.. I have also added a border strengthening strip to the roof of the wheelwell where it meets the walls.. ..it was at this point I decided that I would stop work on the wells as there is a lot of building and handling to go yet before such fragile additions should be added.. thats when I asked about the radiators and have been trying to work out whats what with your help... to start with I can now see the kit parts are deeper than the MkIX plans I have - you can see the plan here and the depth is about 30% more.. ..they match perfectly in width - I have started to mess with the one on the left... the bottom profile is too flat on the kit part - the plan profile at the bottom matches pics of a XIV.. ..a couple of sweeps with a sanding block and I can sort that out.. ..I will also need to add longer sides - here they should stretch right to the back of the drawing, and be as wide at the rear.. I think I can use them as a basis, though they need a bit of work and will also need to be hollowed out a lot before I skin them. I also need to add the curved flare into the wing fairing as that is missing entirely... One annoying thing is I had some beautiful PE Rad screens made when I designed the PE bits - now they are the wrong size so will have to see what if anything I can do with them I am off on the hunt for a drawing of the Griffon rad, but it does seem as if the merlin one was just extended thanks for all your help guys TTFN Peter
    3 points
×
×
  • Create New...