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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/15 in all areas

  1. Hello gentleman, this is the recent Airfix news built with aftermarkets (Quickboost barrels, Eduard etched, Barracuda wheels) in order to address some of the kit's omissions or simplifications. Probably not one of my favourite kits as I really do not like "Airfix engineering", but eventually I'm quite happy with the result. The full build article will appear in coming Valiant Wings "Battle of Britain" publication. Cheers Libor
    31 points
  2. Hi all, Here is my Beaufighter from the DfD set (A50171), finished in the kit scheme as an aircraft from 144 Sqn, RAF Banff, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, February 1944: Its a fantastic kit, fairly easy to build and the props spin :nod: The only additions I made were P.E seatbelts and drilled a wee hole in the port/starboard nav lights and dropped a bit of the relivant colour in each hole prior to gluing them in place.
    28 points
  3. Recently finished. Revell re-box of the Hasegawa 1/72 B-25J Mitchell (y)
    14 points
  4. Hi, This is the Blenheim Mk I serial K7071 from 139 Squadron circa 1938. The decals are from Printscale which I found excellent even though I needed to adapt them a little changing the serial from K7078 to K7071. The airfix Blenheim was a joy to build…I hope you like the pics. Thanks for looking, Russ
    11 points
  5. This is my Spitfire that I finished early last month. Lovely kit, nicely detailed and the fit was excellent. Build thread here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234986333-a-spitfire-and-a-mustang/#entry2060491 The Mustang will follow in its own RFI thread. Sean
    10 points
  6. I pulled this out of the stash with the intention of slapping it together in a week, but that didn't quite happen. This is a pretty bad kit and thankfully I only spend $2 on it. The canopy, air intakes and wings have less than great fit and required a fair bit of attention and still aren't prefect, but they're good enough. This was the F-21 Lion boxing, however the decals were shot so I turned it into an Israeli Kfir C-1. Decals were left over from another kit and I added, drop tanks, bombs, bomb rack and sidewinders out of the spares box, along with a pilot. It'll be a decent 4fter model to sit on the table for Make A Mirage at Wings model show next month.
    9 points
  7. This has been sitting about on the 'nearly finished' shelf for a few months now but managed to get the mojo back and get it done. It's Great Wall Hobby's 9-12 Early kit but finished OOB as a late Hungarian example in the striking 2008 Anniversary scheme just prior to the retirement of the type from the Hungarian Air Force. Was a great kit, a few minor problems with fit around the engine covers but got round most of it by leaving the engines out and fitting the afterburners separate. The camo is done free hand using Mr Hobby paints and the decals are Hung Aero Decals (HAD), bit of a love/hate relationship with them, the main aircraft decal was a nightmare and really struggled to get to conform and settle down, ripped just by looking at it too! After impressing myself with the two tone grey camo on the upper surfaces I then applied a semi matt varnish which caused problems, all this resulted in a serious loss of mojo and it's probably taken about 10 months to complete!
    9 points
  8. Hi all, a while ago I was sent an early pre-production Whitely Mk.V from Airfix to feature in September issue of Airfix Model World magazine, now that the issue has passed I'm able to post it here. The kit arrived minus a box and decals to the Xtradecals RAF Bombers set was used The kit is another great offering from Airfix though there are one or two things to watch out for whilst building the beast, (I'm happy to go through them in the post at some point),. The detail is superb and includes very subtle ribbing on the wing upper surfaces and great cockpit detailing, (though of course I couldn't resist throwing the kitchen sink at it !)The breakdown is slightly unusual though broadly similar to the Blenheim in that the nose section being separate from the rear needs adding to the wing centre section and then to the rear section with the fuselage top being added later......sounds complicated but in fact it results in a very strong structure which befits the old beast. Overall a great kit and I look forward to getting hold of a few more for our Bomber Command sig...a Tiger engined version is just crying out to be built. Cheers, hope you like it and thanks for looking, Melchie.. And with ladders fitted,
    8 points
  9. Hi everyone My Airfix Albion 3 point refueller. Thanks Iain
    8 points
  10. Hi All Added Typhoon T.3 from 41 T.E.S. ( ZK303 `AX` ) and FGR.4 from II (AC) Squadron ( ZK344 `II` ). And that`s my collection of RAF Typhoon squadrons complete. Cheers, Ian
    8 points
  11. Hello Folks and especially Bill, Having had this kit for some time now I`ve finally plucked up courage to get it started and I`ll be using Eagle Cals sheet EC152 to build it as a British Corsair Mk.I, most likely JT150, 5F which belonged to 1835 NAS during its work up period in the USA. The decal instructions include some excellent photos of each of the three decal options courtesy of Mark Proulx who kindly helped me with photos for my Malta book and of these JT150 wears a distinctive non standard camouflage scheme which I presume is still in the US colours Sea Grey and Olive Drab, although British EDSG & Dk. Slate Grey cannot be dismissed either, so your comments on this will be very welcomly received. I`m also using a set of Brassin resin wheels and I`ve bought both of Dana Bell`s books to use as reference, the first of which is shown here with the kit instructions, decals and resin wheels; Here is a close up of the decals; I`ve done some pre painting of the parts and begun to attach them together yesterday, as seen here with the cockpit and fuselage halves; Although I`m aware of the Salmon Pink used on the interior of some early Corsair`s, rightly or wrongly and using the tone of B&W photos as a guide for British Corsair Mk.I`s I elected for a Dark Green for the cockpit with a lighter Interior Green for the rest of the fuselage interior,...sorry if this is wrong Dana! I`ll add another update soon as my Photobucket link has crashed and before I go any further I`d really like to thank my Canadian mate Bill Bunting for all of his help and encouragement with this project,....I really couldn`t have started it without you mate,...as you well know and here is the photo build which you wanted me to do!! Cheers for now Tony Ah,.....I`ve just noticed that the number 5`s in the codes 5L are wrong on the decals! The decals have a kink in the stroke of the number whereas the photos of the real aurcraft don`t show this,......oh bummer! Time for a rethink! EDIT,....I have just replaced some of the pics which had been closed down by Photobucket.
    7 points
  12. Finally finished this model, which I started back in May this year.. Full build thread is here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981204-navy-709-flexops-due-sea-king-has-6-xv711-circa-1996-819-nas/ Before the photos, just want to publicly thanks "Wafu" and " daryle-five-zero " for supplying / swopping various parts in order to build this. I also have to thank whirlybird decals for making the bespoke squadron & aircraft decals. Model is Hasegawa mk 5 with added PE and a totally scratch build rear interior. Enjoy .... Many thanks and happy modelling
    7 points
  13. I have a soldering iron and I'm gonna use it! Wasn't that the name of a band, no, wait a minute..... Well I do, and I went and did - dunno why... sometimes you just get overtaken by the moment - overtaken by the sheer stupidity, sheer bloody mindedness, and the obtuse obstinacy that is your brain. Or at least the modeling part of it. I was sitting looking at bits tonight and there was a limited amount I could do while waiting to finish off the transferry sticking on. The tail wheel axle is still drying out form the gloop application last night... what to do, what to do.... well I could have started on the aerials and I probably should have started on the aerials but no! I decided to replace a part for no other reason than to see if I could do it - well, that and the fact that in the few rfi's I have looked at, it always seemed a little bit over scale - just a little bit mind you, not a lot.... what on earth am I rambling on about then...... Well, this little part here... To be honest, there's not that much wrong with the kit part - the stays are a little oversize that's all. But in my moment of utter stupidity I thought I may be able to make it a little bit better. A lot of footering about and the littlest of touches with my soldering iron got me this far..... A little bit of clean up will be required by quite minimal really. Now did it fit ???? Well it appears that with the tiniest bit of tweaking, it may just work. Of course, had I stayed with the kit part, sticking it on would have been a lot easier - now I'll have to resort to superglue, or pins, or summat And at the end of the day, who is going to see the darn thing anyway ? I'm covering it up with the trans deck door aren't I ? Nobody is going to even know it's there are they ? I told you I was stoopid! You're not even going to be able to see the winch 'cos it's going to be covered by the swinging hatch, but numpty heid here is going to try and replace the valves and add hydraulics to the fuselage isn't he ? ... oh, and I bought a new toy today - primarily for the train carriage build but I am sure it will come in handy for other stuff too - a bargain at under $30! Hopefully I will not have another attack of stoopidity for a while now... we'll see!!!
    7 points
  14. Yes I'm back with some progress (you at the back muttering "about time" go to the head teacher's office now!). As you will recall from the beginning of my meanderings I am using an Eagles Cal sheet using the option of DW*Q as the start to make DW*O. There are a lot of stickies......... I am deeply impressed with the Eagles Cal transfers, especially after the trials and tribulations with the Colorado set for my French Mosquito (no that's still not finished). Lashings of Humbrol's Decalfix were used just in case. Wonderfully thin but robust, they went on a treat. Now then, yer aktual boggo Spitfire I comes with 56" upper wing roundels. However all of the (model) pictures I've seen shows it with a smaller version, 45" has being suggested. So off to the spares box to see what I had......... Bad I phone shake that's what Basically I had a choice of the right colour but slightly too large (an old Almark sheet), or the right size but rather too bright (an even older Microscale sheet). I went with the former. I then started the application You can see here that this is an example of the poor old groundcrew trying to interpret the pronouncements of "Their Airships" viz a viz squeezing modified fselage roundels and squadron markings onto an airframe that plainly wasn't familiar with the rules and regs! Modifying a Q into an O was immensly difficult I've stopped there as I need your thoughts. I'm thinking that the code will read O*DW on the starboard side? I'll leave that for a while. Next will be the tail flash. If you refer to the link at the beginning of this thread you will see that it is smaller and reversed, so the kit options are not applicable. Almark to the rescue again. And that's it for tonight. I feel a lot happier now that the Spit has a definite identity. More tomorrow (probably). Thanks for looking. Trevor
    7 points
  15. Update March 2020: I had to revisit this thread today and so I thought that I would add the following information. Not long after finishing this model Special Hobby produced a kit of this version (isn't it always the way!) The outer wings were shown as being natural metal instead of yellow and there was much discussion about why and when this happened and if it was in this configuration when used for the record attempt. I don't think that a firm conclusion was reached. John I'm not entirely happy with this one for a number of reasons - not the least of which is that it was built for a club competition and failed to win! Another reason is that I always thought that this was the a/c that captured the World Speed Record in 1945 but in fact it was one of two used and it was the other, camouflaged, one that was fastest at 606mph against the 'Yellow Peril's' 603. It was not a happy build for the following reasons The Revell kit is for the short-winged version so new tips had to be added. The instructions invite you to put 10g of lead in the nose. No way could I manage this and more had to be added under the cockpit floor. Fitting the wing halves together gave a very thick trailing edge. I did think about thinning them down but this would have affected the roundness of the engine nacelles. However I should have done this as I later found that the front and rear of the nacelles which were added later were far too small in diameter and needed much filler. Also when I went to fit the wing to the fuselage it protruded below and the fuselage had to be trimmed to get it to fit. The next problem was self inflicted. The only gloss yellow I had,so I thought was, Xtracrylix. which I don't like. After using this I found a tin of Xtracolor gloss yellow in my paint colection, bought a while ago for this model and forgotten about. The joys of old age! Last problem involved the decals. I found a set for this a/c at Hannants but when I went to apply the roundels on the upper wing I found that they were the wrong size - despite being shown as the correct size on the instructions. fortunately the spares box yielded a replacement pair.
    6 points
  16. Well she's finished save for a couple of small details. WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987216-ford-escort-rs-cosworth-group-a-rally/ Kit was Tamiya's Michelin Pilot version with Shunko decals to build the Monte Carlo 1993 car. Slight troubles with the decals mainly on the bumper corners but from a distance it looks good. Will weather in the future when those skills have been honed a bit more. Anywho pics Ahoy: Thanks for looking and to those that have followed the build. As always comments are always welcome lol TTFN Ashley.
    6 points
  17. Hi folks, so I've just finished the beast, a build thats been off and on for the best part of a year,the kit went together well with the exeption of the decals which were pretty nasty. Extras include an Aires cockpit and G-Factor metal undercarriage mostly to support the huge weight. Hope you all like it. Nick
    6 points
  18. Its done! I'll take some proper photos soon and do a RFI thread, but for now heres a few bad photos. Overall pretty pleased with how this one turned out.
    6 points
  19. It means he's a criminal. After he stopped flying Jaguars, Steve rather lost his way for a while, and ended up running a whippet cartel in Yorkshire until the police caught up with him. Alternatively, it might mean that he became a perfectly respectable lawyer after he left the Air Force. I prefer my version.
    6 points
  20. Thanks Val and good job Jonny, you won't be disappointed ! To answer a few questions about the model that people have pm'ed me.... here are a few piccies of the main points of the build, hope this is of some help. The fuselage centre section with the main spars and undercarriage points, again a very solid and easy to assemble structure. Nice to see the additional lower windows. Everything virtually clips into place with the wings literally sliding over the spars. With the wings in place it's a really strong structure...in fact I don't think I've ever built stronger ! The rear bomb bay and forward bulkhead are shown here too. Note the separate flap bays. The cockpit area..I've added several pieces of my own here. The instrument panel is adapted from an Eduard Halifax set as the kit only includes decals for the panel and I simply prefer the pe sets plus as I mentioned I didn't get any decals with the kit. I believe there is even a map on the sheet which is rather nifty. The seat belts and radio set are also from the Halifax set...Eduard are doing a set to use with the model. You can see here how the fuselage is broken down. Also evident are the gaps on top of the engine nacelles..... I added my own map and map reading equipment. Here the gaps in the nacelles are filled, a two minute job. You can also see the position of the two forward skylight windows and interior detail that extends into the front turret bay. The detailing of the wing ribbing is very subtle and effective....and bomb bay roof and flooring are all included.... The only area of concern on the model were the gaps caused by the fuselage halves not quite reaching the wing, easily solve by inserting a small tube into the top of the fuselage side walls which helps push the sides into the wings and maintain the correct roof line when fitting the top panel. The nose turret is nice but I decided to add some extra detail as it's very easily seen in the big fishbowl..all well illustrated in the Warpaint book. Cheers all, Melchie
    6 points
  21. Hi everyone. Just finished my recent project of the new tooled Airfix 1/72 Beaufighter. The kit was a pure joy, no fit issues and only an issue with the painting instructions that Airfix provided being the only issue with the kit. I chose to build the kit OOB and also had a 1/72 Hurricane with the same markings in the stash, So chose to build them together. WIP can be found here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987066-airfix-beaufighter-new-tool-and-hurricane-mkiic-seac-172/ Any comments, positive or negative are welcome. Thanks all
    5 points
  22. ohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboyohboy Looks like a beauty! John
    5 points
  23. Hello again everybody. Revell kit + Nazca decals. White automotive paint, Alclad for the engines. My father flew this one, LanChile only had three of them and one was lost in 1991 in a runway overrun accident in Puerto Williams, Chile (Patagonia). 20 passengers died. It was an aircraft definitely ahead of its time, bringing by then unkown low-noise levels to air travel down here in south america. It performed extremely well in short runways in spite of having no thrust reversers as well. Thanks for looking
    5 points
  24. This is the second part of my Mustang/Spitfire double build. Another lovely kit, details of both builds here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234986333-a-spitfire-and-a-mustang/#entry2060491 Sean
    5 points
  25. Good day, gentlemen! Let me present you my next model. This is the new resin kit from Ukrainian producer, named "Armory". The kit consist from main resin details, vacuum formed glass cabinet cover, photoetched and metal details. It is new but not easy to assembly. I'm not satisfied from it. Probably it need more time and more accuracy from modeller. I'm sorry, but I can't to do better.
    5 points
  26. Hi, First time for me to post here. All comments welcome. Here is my build of the (not the newest) Spitfire in 1/48, in pre-war 19 Sqn markings. The figure are my first stab at adding people. They are from the Revell/ICM set. Rob
    5 points
  27. Like that excuse. Gonna use that one. Wasn't me sir - someone dinked my master......
    5 points
  28. Thanks Jaime ... two down, one to go: Cheers, Stew
    5 points
  29. OK, this will be my effort for this GB. Revell re-pop of the venerable old Monogram 1/24 UH-1 Huey. Now, as far as I'm aware, the fuselage is a tad too short on this kit. However, as long as it looks like a Huey when it's finished, that'll do me. Gonna be a straight forward OOB build. Should be fun (y)
    4 points
  30. About 3 weeks ago Pilot Replicas released their injected mold Saab J21. A inbox review can be found here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?%2Ftopic%2F234988181-saab-j-21-a-3-148. I bought it directly and thought this is a really nice model that I could build quite fast. The aim was to have it finished to AIM (Art In Miniatures) in Gothenburg 5-6/9, http://artgot.se/. I started to assamble the main wing. To avoid a step in the joint I glued a plastic strip so that the wing skin would meet eachother. Here I realized that you need to dry fit very carefully, this goes for the whole model. The CAD parts are distributed nicely but the error margin when it is transferred to the moulds are not thought of, therefore the fit is very tight and it is necessary to grind almost every part. I also drilled out some holes, cooling duct on the side of fuselage and the end of the "bumps" on the fuselage side. I thought the ladder was to thick and I therefore decided to have a closed canopy and ladder unfolded. So I glued the fuselage part in place and filled the gap with plasticard. The ejection seat was put together and painted. I used the same as for the interior, an old can of Humbrol 116 lightened with yellow. Here is the only place I used the photo etched parts. The cockpit was painted. The instrument decals is Mike Grants. Also the HUD glass is molded on the HUD so removed that part and glued a replacement instead. The upper part of the bulkhead is left unpainted, that is so because the bulkhead is slightly too wide in the upper corner. This was grind down but there is still a gap in the fuselage/bulkhead joint, finns needed some filler after the fuselage was glued. To avoid a tailsitter I glued 24 grams of lead, the instruction says 20 g but... And then the whole model was glued together! To be able to glue the tail booms I had to remove the inner forward pin. The fabric on the fins are very odd so I grind them down a bit. It looks good on the finished model. The landing gear was glued and the main gear had some extra wire glued. These were put in Place at the same time the whole fuselage was glued. Also note that on one gear the mould was not filled up and I had to glue a rod in place and shape it. Some filler was needed on the underside of wing/fuselage and the booms. The canopy was glued in Place as well, if you take it carefully and dryfit it will go without any problem. I was in a bit of hurry and needed filler in some places. The top canopy does not fit at all if it will be closed, it needs to be reshaped but it only affects the framing and not the glass. Now it is time for a tricky thing, the pitot tube. The kit tube is useless so I made it myself using two different tubes and glued them together. Next thing is on which side to put it on, there are no stright answers it could be right or left. Check your references!! This is how I cut a stright line on the spinner. I clamped a blade in a book. quite easy. Next thing was the painting. I used Xtracolor, X778 Swedish dark green lightened with X108 Blue Angels Yellow, ratio 1 ml green and 8 drops Yellow. The lower side shall have a blue grey paint towards the grey shade, I found X395 Mirage 2000 Light Blue Grey to be exact was I was looking for. There are also a Dark Blue Grey that can be used on Swedish aircrafts before 1948. The blue is X317 Airline WP Thrifty Blue, match the roundel blue very nicely. Decal time! I found a misstake on one of the stencils, I talked to the decal designer and this will probaly be solved in the next batch och models. Decal no 22 is not on the instructions and that is correct, this text is only valid for J21A-1. The nose gear was knocked off some times so I left it to after decaling. It is a weak point so I glued it in Place and then secured it with quite a lot of epoxy glue. Then I glued the gear doors in place, note that the instructions are wrong here. The main landing gear door shall open to to the right on both sides. I did finish the model in time for AIM. I was sitting in the exhibition hall demasking the canopy and glued the propeller. All in all it is a very nice and fun model build, I enjoyed every minute of this build. I will build at least another one then Pilot Replicas release their engine set for the J21. Tobias
    4 points
  31. Hi All this is another build from my mate Paul. Revell 1/48 Kit built OOB.Aftermarket Decals only. Thanks for looking in, John
    4 points
  32. Hi Rich - I am not sure - I think they are out there on the net - it is simply a box with a plumbing fitting that fits most hoover pipes - there are some videos on youtube that might help so, on to todays bits and bobs.. I took the vacformed nacelles and cut away any malformed or incomplete parts, for example the vertical flat rear parts did not fully form so these were replaced with new sides - I also built up the rear tips from solid to give some rigidity and so I can work pewter over it.. ..another problem that I had thought about was how to represent the fairings around the exhausts - I decided not to make them part of the master shape as I wasn't convinced they would form properly - you can see it is quite a cut-out & shaped depression in this pic I took at Chino.. ..I measured it up and made a mould section from balsa soused with CA to give it strength - I tried to plunge mould them first - the intention being to 'let' these into the main nacelle.. ..in the end I vac-formed them as I found plunge moulding didn't get the full depth properly formed - it's funny, they look like a row of bonnets for some little model cars.. ..I marked out where they would go and added the first three to the main front engine disc.. ..then marked out and cut the nacelle to allow the moulded parts to integrate.. ..and after shimming from the inside and some fettling I had the first three installed.. I don't know if there was an easier way to get the same result, but I am happy with it.. ..and with a fake cowl to show how it might look later on.. ..thats it for now my friends.. TTFN Peter
    4 points
  33. Only me! Wait no longer Dan! And thanks for the comment Hmmmm ced I will have to pay this some attention as losing a large post is hugely annoying.... maybe I should stop wittering on.... So let's try again. First off sanded down the milliput on wings then finished off the interior work... but I forgot to take photos of that so here is all I have! Then I glued it all together.... That was looks so poor, I think I left the paint for too long before washing away... the other side and rest of the CP looks just as good as the other! You will just have to take my word for it I then added the lower bit at the back (a correct term from the manual I think yu shall find! ) and got glue and my finger prints everywhere! Looks really bad! Like I used to do when I was 9... oh well... for the morning session I left it there as i had to, do the washing up, clean the bath room, mop all floors, tidy the garden, hoover and clean the windows... all before picking up the boy at 2, which being a great husband I did. So on my return I spent another half hour while the tea was on doing a few more bits. First off sanded back the seams with a fine emery board and then 3600 and 4000 micromesh, I also attacked the massive finger print and glue. I then sanded back the rest of the wings and the 10 thou card as it was to pronounced and the wings needed a bit more of a clean up, all done with the above micromesh. Oh and I added the tail planes Look the finger print raised lines and all the glue is gone... but some paint is burnt into the plastic now from my finger. I have also sanded back the dog house as i have decided to pose this one open...I also need to get some milliput and a wet finger in the wing root! And that's it form tonight, I have also painted all the little bits flat aluminium that need it ready to be weathered and glued to the AC. If you are wonding where it's mates up to here he is! And if you didn't. ... tough! There it is! It's hot to trot other than a but of hu30 on the tops of the cannons. Once the others are ready for transfers they will all get a polish and gloss cote and transfered together as the team mates they are. Well that that I think....thoughts welcome Rob
    4 points
  34. Hello and after a too long break away, this is my first very late entry to 2015. A none too accurate portrayal of Canberra XH134 in it's retirement scheme as I saw it back in 2006 at RIAT. A sad day thinking I'd never see a Canberra fly again (oh sooo wrong), and also a day when I was taking my first steps in photography with my brand new digital slr. So this is the Airfix Canberra we all know and 'love', sadly missing out on today's new jewel like Airfix toolings that have certainly spoiled me since my return to modelling. In the end I didn't go a bundle on fixing her up. I reshaped the root of the tail and replaced the rudder with a more suitable resin part. Resin wheels looked much nicer than the kit ones so they were added as well. A little bit of brass from the usual people was added to brighten up the cockpit. I spent some time filling in the deeper trenches on the fuselage, but I didn't bother with the wings as I didn't find the engraving there quite so offensive. Mild weathering was done with True Earth filters... which may have ended up being too subtle on the hemp upper surfaces, and a little artist oil on the undersides where it's a little dirtier. Oh, and after totally losing the ability to stretch sprue, I gave up and ordered some of that Uschi van der Rosten elastic rigging which made things considerably easier. The stencilling is a bit of a mish mash and not quite right, and I don't think I have all the correct aerials for this time, but I've been SO busy with other life stuff that I've had to shrug my shoulders and go 'close enough'. So here she is, the original followed by my 'interpretation'. Thank you once again for your attention. Jonathan RIAT2006_004 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr RIAT2006_017 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_01 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_02 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_04 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_05 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_06 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_07 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr Canberra_08 by Jonathan Macauley, on Flickr
    4 points
  35. Hi You may remember a few months ago I started a thread bemoaning my new found skill of not being able to build the newer Airfix kits. I have now completed the new Hawker Hurricane, at the second attempt, and here it is. I made it completely straight from the box with the exception of the small mast on the tail fin which I refined, OK I snapped it off by accident and the carpet monster ate it. I did deviate from the construction a little as I was convinced that the cockpit parts cocked up my first effort. As each section was placed I let the glue dry and dry fitted the upper wing to the lower and then mated it all up to the fuselage. This meant about ten glueing and dry fitting sessions took place, it was a lot better the second time round. I did shorten the tailwheel leg a bit as it seemed to long. I finished it using the kit decals for R4118, 605 Sqd September 1940 or Peter Vachers restored war bird.The decals were very nice. Painted with Xtracrylics paints, I hope I've done it justice but am now of to start a much easier kit, an FM Halifax maybe Regards Paul
    4 points
  36. Fritag's been 'called to the Bar' Georgio - does that make it any clearer? EDIT: Ahh. I see that Crisp has already given the game away He's right. I've been running a dodgy pub called the flying whippet over near Scarborough........
    4 points
  37. I'll ave you know that I'm exactly average height for a chap. Least I was in the 1980's. I 'spect the average height is taller these days.......... When Fritag went into law he started to slowly lose the will to live............. Working at home today - but definitely got man flu What with that and the aforesaid mentioned losing the will to live it seemed like a good idea to get the tedious business of building up the depth of the main U/C bays out of the way: They'll still be a tad shallow - but I this is about the maximum depth I can get by thinning out the plastic on the top wings. They're curing at the mo. Clean em up later.
    4 points
  38. Hi folk,s last one for the day as the next step is the spraying of the M113,I have referenced Snappers excellent photo's and glad to see some M113's wore the side skirt's included in the kit as I really don;t have the patience with the type of tracks supplied so no need to go all around as they cannot be seen.I need to find my superglue as the Sheridan's track's always rested on the top of the centre wheel which I need to do.Here's the general layout of the dio.
    4 points
  39. Yes its great to see no-one was hurt and what an absolutely brilliant cockpit team,cabin crew and fire service job ! Great to see unselfish passengers carrying out their luggage before considering others !!! >????? Give me a break , can no one else see this >???? WHAT would we be saying if many had perished and we saw those passengers with HUGE bags walking away at the expense of those that could not get off ? Panic ??? of course there was panic WE ALL know how selfish our fellow travellers are !!!! i'd panic too sitting up the back in flame and smoke waiting for some elitist to retrieve his /her overhead luggage before exiting, for goodness sake !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nuff said i'm going back to the modelling bench. Selfish ignorance is something you dont need at a time like that.
    4 points
  40. Just put the finishing touches on this. The Joystick kit is excellent and it went together with no trouble at all. I'd love to get my hands on Blackburn Blackburn and Blackburn Dart kits to go with it. -Dan
    4 points
  41. There's been an awful lot of "pot to kettle over" in the last several posts it seems to me........ Anyways I've now got all 3 of the nose bays done - so I'll use the best two after I've put in such other gubbins as seems right - probably (contrary to Mr Tom's helpful suggestion) just a pipe or two....
    4 points
  42. Hi Stix, thanks mate, I wonder what is more stressfull? Masking or doing miniscule cockpit frames by hand This is the easy way out and tribute to you for choosing the "Rocky road" 8/9 update: Tailplanes fitted. They look rather big for the rest of the aircraft:
    4 points
  43. Why? What's the point? These programmes aren't aimed at you and I who probably know more about the Battle than probably we should. They are aimed at the general public, getting the Battle back into the public eye, letting people know it happened and what the results of those brave mens efforts were. And that, surely, is what matters?
    4 points
  44. Okay it's not great, it's not perfect - but I think it will pass. The doors now have open and locked "arrows" with some nondescript text that if you don't look close enough and the wind is blowing in the right direction, says Open & Locked. The rear undercarriage took another step forward today with the installation of the shock absorber (is it a shock absorber or an oleo?). The epoxy glue had done it's job on the casting and the rear shock had to be wedged in - but I added a few more drops of epoxy glue just to be on the safe side. Getting those labels on took a bit of phaffing about - I must have tried about 5 different pieces of Bare Metal Foil before I gave up and used a couple of pieces of scrap decal oops, transfer from that old Dauphin build. I also had the foresight to have a hole in the base of the casting when it was printed, and magically, I have a piece of brass tube that fits the hole perfectly - the styrene "collar" on the tube may or may not be part of the tail wheel yoke/axle. At some point in the past, the tail wheel axle broke - so it was pinned with brass rod. I also added some styrene gloop to help add a bit of strength and to aid with some re-shaping that I hope to do on this part. I am hoping that this is all going to work.... I have changed so much from the italeri piece of crud that I am worried it may sit a bit high at the back - I guess we'll find out when the time comes. I also stuck on the winch light and made a glass cover for it from a scrap piece of clear runner Now in place like so.... Almost there... almost there....
    4 points
  45. Cheers Folks, Glad you like the updates and I`m glad that you liked the Malta book BZ,........coming from yourself that is a massive compliment and much appreciated ta! Pity the final chapter was cut, leaving the ending up in the air though,....when I agreed to it the book was supposed to be one volume covering 1940-43, then it was cut into two and then the first book was cut again and the second book was never commissioned. Here is the state of play at the moment with the fuselage buttoned up and the lower part of the wing centre section added temporarily to make sure that the fuselage is lined up properly. The intakes in the wing roots are little kits in their own right and I`m pondering whether to paint the internals in Sky rather than Interior Green,...decisions decisions!; I`ll paint the prop after the glue dries and I can sand the seams. Cheers for now, Tony
    3 points
  46. Morning folk,s just can,t put this build down at the moment real fun,here's progress with the M113,sprayed the interior light gray and put a wash in then a dry brush of mud,after that added all the fixtures to the hull and popped on for the pic's,the ramp will be posed open hopefully with a figure or two exiting the vehicle.
    3 points
  47. nice seat cushions - the seat backs look a bit HR Giger'ish
    3 points
  48. Hej, This looks like a really nice build. Thank you. The ailerons were changed from fabric covered to sheet metal covered. In fact I think A-3 was delivered with sheet metal ones (I have to check that, it's mentioned in the spare parts catalogue). EDIT 2: Here is a picture of the aileron assembly (EDIT 6: updated sheet metal!): The rudders were never modified to sheet metal standard but I think the fabric was properly stretched most often, so it's hard to see. The three survivors have fabric covered rudders (also 21286 before J 21R modification). EDIT1: See picture from ipmssthlm. EDIT 5: Note that they got the markings wrong at the museum, the stencils regarding "Trestle bla bla" only consider J 21R. The size of "R" is also to small for an A 21A from F6 Karlsborg. The 21397 is mainly based on this picture. (Bengt Andres Bengtsson in the picture) I think there is another picture of yellow P from an angle at the ground and I could not see the yellow ring of the insignia "watching out over the leading edge" in that picture, but of course, it's not sure att all. Other pictures reveal that third division was quite good to apply the top side markings. If you pay attention to the small outlet at the edge of the insignia in pictures, these could have two or three different designs/lengths. If pictures are taken early and insignias were applied late, then we are tricked I guess. But I got the impression that they were not 100% disciplined to apply the top side insignia at F9 (they did not care about the ban considering squadron badges either). The a/c 21377 representing F15 Söderhamn is a former F9 a/c and therefore it also has the number at the door (lucky for me and you!). I think it's 21395 in the picture above but unfortunately I cannot read the letter next to 395 on ther door. Also, please forgive me but I have to point out a mistake made by me in the profiles. The nose painting (squadron colour) shall not be applied to the more aft position that I have wrongly represented in the profiles. The nose demarcation should be placed more forward like Tobias Holmbom (user "TobHol" here) has painted, please see his building article here at the forum. EDIT 3: See pic Perhaps it should be mentioned that the addressed colours in the instructions are to be considered to be more of a advise. I try to be very careful to make this sort of statements myself since the debate is unavoidable, but since most of the builders expect some sort of number for this type of information we tried to get as close as possible. I don't know if there is a "true" model colour match for the Swedish colours, but please advise me/us if you feel you got the answer. The real colours could vary a lot after some years, especially Olive green but the quality was also connected to the brand of the paint. It appears like Wedevåg who delivered the paint (colour number W62) at this time was more resistant than later brands used on for example A 32A which was worse (number of the ccolour was changed to 325). Pay attention to the mid-section flap. It is one piece, this part is slightly different for A-1 and A-2 but I cannot recall the details right now. The main changes may have been done to the cooling doors ahead of the flaps?? Note that the engine is running, I think he is looking for leaks. One weathering tip is to look closer at the booms at the position/"heigth" of the propeller, this part of the booms got stains from the propeller, oil or/and grease. EDIT4: Also, I think you can see exhaust trails on the elevator in the picture posted above by Jonners, but you guys have allready seen that perhaps. Pictures are taken from "Vingat vapen över Göteborg" Åke Hall & Per Linquist ISBN 978-91-633-2137-5 All the best Robert
    3 points
  49. Hi everyone I think my Spitfire is finally finished. Its not a perfect replication of R6800 by any means, I managed to break the antenna in two so I've used the other available with the kit and the rear view mirror is wrong for R6800 - any how I'm not going to loose any sleep over it I'm just glad its finished. Tomorrow I'm going to try and finish my Albion and decide on how I'm going to tackle the diorama. Any way here are some pictures, I'll take some better ones tomorrow in natural light and post them in the RFI..... Until tomorrow Iain
    3 points
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