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Showing topics in Aircraft Reviews, Kits, Aftermarket (updates/conversions), Decals, Reference material, Armoured Fighting Vehicle Reviews, Kits, Aftermarket, Diorama & Accessory, Reference Material, Kits, Aftermarket, Reference Material, Vehicle Reviews, Sci-fi & Real Space Reviews, Figure Reviews, Locos, Trains & Layout Reviews and Tools & Paint Reviews posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Panzer IV On the Battlefield 2 World War Two Photobook Series Peko Publishing The Panzer IV was developed due to a perceived lack of heavy armour by the Third Reich in the mid 30s, and they began WWII with predominantly light tanks that were often outgunned and relatively lightly armoured compared to their opponents. Only the Blitzkreig tactics gave them the advantage, and following on from this Hitler became obsessed with the mantra "bigger is better". The Pz.IV was a pre-war development that succeeded the Panzer III, initially with a 37mm gun, and later with heavier armament as the war progressed, plus added frontal armour and spaced "schurtzen" plates to the hull and turret in an effort to pre-detonate shaped warheads large or small. This new volume from Peko's World War Two Photobook Series, and as the name suggests it is primarily a book of photos, which isn't too difficult to divine. As Volume 2 of the set it covers the more mature variants of the Pz.IV, beginning with the Ausf.G and carrying on through H to Ausf.J with all the variations in fit and finish between the main three factories that were engaged in construction of this, the unsung backbone of German WWII armour. It is hardback bound with 112 pages, finished in an overall white cover, which was quite difficult to scan well. The photos are almost without exception full page, with space left only for the captions, which are in Hungarian and English, each one adding valuable insight to the photo, which may not be immediately apparent without it. For the modeller there are plenty of diorama possibilities, as well as opportunities to see how the crews actually stowed their gear on their vehicles (or otherwise) in real-world circumstances. Seeing how they come apart when blown up is also useful for diorama purposes, but thankfully there are no grisly scenes accompanying the destroyed vehicles. Quite a few of the photos are from private collections with attributions in the top corner as appropriate, with substantial quantity of soldiers standing in front of damaged or abandoned vehicles after the fighting is over, plus a number of groups investigating the wreckage after a cataclysmic explosion of the tank's magazine, or demolition by the escaping crew. While the contemporary photos are in black and white, even some that were originally taken for American magazine Life in colour, and the detail in which they are depicted would be an absolute boon to any modeller, especially those wishing to go down the route of realism and authentic settings. Conclusion Whether you have the models that you intend to use this book for reference, or have an interest in the subject, this book will give you all the reference pictures and some besides, as well as some inspiration for dioramas. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Last week
  4. USS Guam CB-2. 1:350

    Yeah, but we're talking about Trumpeter here Chris. Lol!
  5. USS Guam CB-2. 1:350

    Found this link for Guam plans https://www.super-hobby.com/products/USS-Guam-CB-2.html And for Alaska Https://www.super-hobby.com/products/USS-Alaska-CB-1-20194526.html
  6. Other brands also available.
  7. AMT Volkswagen Scirocco Mk1 (1977 model)

    Now if they would only release a 2015 r in 1/24......☺
  8. Small note for those looking to do the TAV-8A versions for the USMC/Spain/Thailand, you will need different seats for the kit. The TAV-8A used Stencel seats instead of the normal MB seats. Wingman makes resin ones for the Alpha Jet, if you're so inclined Matt
  9. Modern AFV UHF Antennas 1:35 Master Models Modern AFVs often sprout many antenna and getting them to look right on models can be frustrating. These two sets from Master Models are designed for the IBG KTO Rosomak but can be used on a variety of vehicles. UHF Antenna [35-016] This set has a resin antenna mount which is shipped in a foam collar for protection. The short tube fits into the mount and the whip antenna to the tube. UHF Antenna with tilt adaptor [35-017] This set has a resin antenna mount which is shipped in a foam collar for protection. The short tube fits into the mount and the whip antenna to the tube like the above set. The addition here is a tilt mount which can be fitted between the base and the whip antenna . This has a small resin adjustment cog, and a couple of very small mounting pins (not shown) Conclusion These will certainly add something to your finished model, though be careful with them as the carpet monster will also be attracted to them. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  10. F-16XL & F-CK-1 Pitot Tube & AOA Probes 1:48 Master Models Modern aircraft relying on information to fly and the Pitot tubes & Angle Of Attack probe extending through the fuselage generally in the nose are provides angle of attack or sideslip and speed information. [48-144] - This set is for the US F-16XL and Taiwanese F-CK-1. It provides the pitiot tube, set of AOA probes and vanes for the pitot probe. Conclusion These will certainly add something to your finished model, though be careful with them as the carpet monster will also be attracted to them. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  11. Angle of Attack Probes - US Type 1:32 Master Models Modern aircraft relying on information to fly and the Angle Of Attack probe extending through the fuselage generally in the nose are provides angle of attack or sideslip information. [32-101] - This set is a generic one for US aircraft and contains 5 sensors, while they are small even in this scale they will certainly add the scale look of the completed model when fitted. Conclusion These will certainly add something to your finished model, though be careful with them as the carpet monster will also be attracted to them. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  12. Two-Seat T-Harrier (T.2/T.2A/T.4/T.4N/T.8) 1:48

    Sorry to say, Mike, the image of the wing is of the spare FA2 wing (only one dogtooth). The new wing has all the vortex generators on it now, unlike the FRS1. A good review of a really nice kit - I’m thoroughly enjoying mine. Nick
  13. I think I read/heard somewhere that it is the plan to do a full range of Harriers... now we have the laser snoot parts in this boxing, it's got to be a racing certainty, surely!?!!
  14. Great review as ever Mike. The plastic looks like typical Kinetic fayre. A bit flashy and a bit soft in detail in places but overall pretty good. I see nothing that a bit of time with a fresh scalpel blade and a sanding stick won't sort out. Personally, I am really pleased that Kinetic have made the Harrier their own with this and their previous versions. I really hope that they turn their attention to the GR.1 and GR.3 next.
  15. Two-Seat T-Harrier (T.2/T.2A/T.4/T.4N/T.8) 1:48 Kinetic Model The Harrier is an iconic (in the truest sense) example of what was possible when British Aviation was at its prime. It was a revolutionary design back in the 60s, and has seen many improvements and even a complete re-vamp in the shape of the Harrier II, which saw McDonnell Douglas get more heavily involved, giving the US Marines their much beloved AV-8B, and the British the Gr.5/7/9, all of which had new wings, massively upgraded avionics and improved versions of the doughty Pegasus engine, which was always at the heart of this legendary design. The Harrier is a difficult aircraft to fly due to the high pilot workload, and requires the best pilots to do it justice, which means that trainer variants are essential, as simulators can only offer so much realism, even now. The first trainers rolled out in the 1970s, and have been upgraded along similar lines to their operational brethren to provide as close to real-world training conditions as practical. The fuselage was extended at the nose, with a huge blister canopy encompassing both seats, with the instructor sitting substantially higher than their pupil to afford them a good view ahead, and a long, weighted "stinger" tail extention to equalise the centre of gravity with the single seater. Although it disrupts the sleek lines of the single-seat variant, the Trainers have a strange charm of their own, and there have been some interesting schemes, including the Raspberry Ripple and Qinetiq liveries over the years. The Harrier II trainers have the new composite wing, and are designated T.10/12. The Kit For many years modellers of the Harrier have been crying out for a good quality kit in this scale, and also the two-seat variants, with only a partial answer being forthcoming until now. Kinetic have put a lot of effort and research into creating models of the two Sea Harriers already the FRS.1 and FA.2, both of which we have reviewed in the past, and have been well-received for their overall level of accuracy. Now we have this new tooling, which has a substantial cross-over with the original, and sold out so quickly that we have only now received our sample for review from the second batch that have been commissioned. Something tells me this won't be the last re-pop of the moulds. This kit deals with the earlier "tin wing" Harriers before the introduction of composites, so the most recent variant is the T.8, and anything earlier, all from the same box. There are nine sprues in grey styrene, three of which are new, plus one that has been slightly tweaked for this edition. There are two sprues of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a large decal sheet and the instruction manual. The big changes are forward of the engine intake "ears", but the rear boom is also extended for balance purposes, which helps achieve the ungainly look of the finished model, and that of course is exactly how it should look! The cockpit has two ejection seats with separate cushions and headbox details, plus slightly simplified PE crew belts and the pull handle between the pilot's knees. These are fitted into the stepped cockpit tub with rudder pedals, dual control columns, instrument panels that have separate painting guides, coamings, HUD and the big windscreen-within-a-windscreen that shields the pilots from ejection backwash in the event a quick exit is required. Detail in the cockpit is good, and will come up well once painted with a fine brush and some patience. In order to close up the fuselage the main gear bay boxes are built and painted, as is the bell-shaped intake trunking, having the front section on the nose gear bay attached to the underside of the cockpit tub, and the aft section to the fuselage sides. The rear bay is attached to the mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to rotate, which must be positioned opposite their exits before you can close up the fuselage. A choice of open or closed auxiliary vents are provided, which slot inside the intake lips, and the closed ones depict the characteristic gravity droop of the upper doors, which is as it should be. The wing is top mounted, with the anhedral moulded into the full width top panel, and the lower panels separate parts that bracket the fuselage sides. Separate flaps and their actuator fairings are provided, and although undocumented in the instruction booklet, these can be replaced by parts E1 to pose them dropped. Clear wingtip lights are supplied, which makes adding them a breeze, as their location would be a pain to fabricate your own. More good things! There is a choice of three tail fins, each with a separate rudder, and the elevators have a separate swash-plate and pivot lug for attachment to the fuselage, and the wing panel can be fitted nose-first, using a small lug at the front to find the correct location and alignment. There are no LERX to worry about on the older tin wings, and just a tiny PE mesh insert covers a vent at the rear of the cockpit spine behind the air conditioning. At this point the airframe is ostensibly complete, so spare a little time here to whoosh it around the room making suitable jet noises and ensuring you don't get caught doing it. The smaller assemblies are then built up, including the bicycle wheels, the canopy parts with some additional PE and plastic parts, plus a set of plastic rear-view mirrors to finish them off. You have a choice of laser or a pointy nose cone, which varied between airframes, as detailed in the accompanying chart, with another chart showing which tail stinger was fitted to which airframe to ensure you get both ends just right. Another choice of undernose inserts is made between T.8s and the rest, and the main gear can be fitted along with their respective gear bay doors, and a choice of small or large air-brake, which has its own chart of which one was fitted to which airframe. It makes a lot of sense to choose your decal option at the outset. Lumps, bumps, aerials and antennae are fitted on almost every spare inch of the airframe, plus an optional shoulder-mounted refuelling probe, PE stays for the side-opening canopies, after which you just need to decide what to hang under the wings and fuselage of this ungainly but beautiful aircraft. You have a choice of gun pods or strakes under the fuselage, which was always fitted with one or the other to keep the airflow from the engines diving under the fuselage too soon, and when the outer pylon is not used, a small cover is fitted instead. Kinetic are usually generous with their weapons, and here you a decent array too, most of which are on two identical sprues, with a few others knocking about on the others. The parts most fitted are as follows: 2 x 190 gallon fuel tank 2 x 100 gallon fuel tank 2 x Aden gun pod There are various other weapons on the sprues that would usually end up in the spares bin, as most training sorties would be flown with either a clean airframe, or with extra tankage as required. The trainer is technically combat capable however, so can carry other munitions should the need arise. Typically, this seems to consist mainly of Sidewinders of rocket pods depending on training requirements. Markings The decal sheet is A4 sized, and printed by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Design was carried out by CrossDelta, and includes a host of stencils that are covered on a separate page, plus ten options for different airframes and operators. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD990/721, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 2004-2005, RN Fixed Wing Standards Flight to April 2006 – gloss black overall, with black or grey tanks and winged fist on the tail. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm, T.8 ZD605/720, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – gloss black overall with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD604/722, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – Gloss black overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD605/718, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton,1985 – Dark sea grey overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW265/W 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1992 – Grey green camo overall. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW266/51 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1975 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW272/Z IV(AC) Squadron, RAF Güttersloh, 1980 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. US Marine Corps TAV-8A VMAT-203, MCAS Cherry Point, Late 1970s - Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Armada Española (Spanish Navy) TAV-8S 8a Esquadrilla (8th Squadron), 1988 – gull grey over white. Royal Thai Navy TAV-8S, 301 Squadron late 1990s – Gull grey over white. The intake roundels are sensibly broken into sections with separate parts for each of the blow-in doors to ensure good settlement into the shapes found there. I would have liked to have seen some decals for the instruments, but with a detailed painting guide for that area it's not a major problem, and even if it is, Eduard are bound to be along any moment now with a PE set that will give you all the detail you need. Conclusion We now have a rather nice Trainer Harrier in 1:48, and I for one couldn't be happier. Two of them is better of course, but a modern, detailed model was much needed. How long will tranche two of the mouldings last? Not long, at a guess, so if you're planning on getting one, I wouldn't hang around. I'm also getting the prayer mat out to wish for the composite wing 2-seaters. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Sukhoi Su-22M3/M4 Fitter-F (Sic) KH80146

    Mike, if I understood the initial post correctly, these are the pictures from kit 80144, because you wrote "As the styrene is the same, there is little point in taking a new set of photos (our SSDs aren't infinite!),..." As I mentioned in my post, I saw somewhere the clear parts of the export variant 80146 and I am sure, KH corrected the front screen. Therefor my request for a picture of the clear parts of kt 80146 to confirm my memory. Thomas
  17. The clear parts are already shown in amongst the rest of the review - this picture:
  18. Sukhoi Su-22M3/M4 Fitter-F (Sic) KH80146

    Could you post a picture from the clear parts, please? I don´t know where I saw it, but the picture showed a corrected windscreen (rounded corners) in the Export Su-22 kit. Thanks, Thomas
  19. They dry to the touch fairly quickly, so it's probably just a little evaporation of the thinners that's giving it a bit of extra thickness. Good idea
  20. Earlier
  21. Bare Metal Aircraft Colors (Acrylic A.MIG.7216)

    I find if i let my Ammo paints evaporate a little for maybe 5-10 minutes after i put them in a tray/cup. They brush much better after the small wait.
  22. It's supposed to be polished metal Mike - looks like someone just picked up the wrong bottle when they were making up my pack. Burnt Iron is a nice colour though, but it's not polished metal
  23. Which colour would you both have preferred in the set, Polished metal or Burnt iron? Just a general query as you probably don't get that choice, but I'm thinking of changing from the enamel Alclad metallics to acrylic metallics. Mike
  24. Ok - a quick test showed that with a high quality flat brush (W&N One Stroke) the paint is too thin to work effectively with one coat, and would take a number of applications to become opaque, although it is looking better after a second coat. I would suggest that if you're thinking of buying these, you test one first - I'm not a brush-painter myself, so have no experience in that respect. It always strikes me as odd how such thin paint can give an opaque finish when airbrushed, but be watery and translucent when brushes. I guess it's the atomisation and evaporation of the carrier during the airbrushing that does it My colleague Julien has volunteered to investigate further - he sometimes brush-paints still, so knows more about it than me.
  25. They're marked as "Air Colors" but state they're suitable for brush or airbrush, but I've just prepped another fuselage half with Tamiya grey primer and will try brushing out a few samples in a minute, because I suspected someone would ask
  26. Morning. Are these any good for brush painting?
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