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Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas posted in the last 365 days.

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Nah the old one was a complete whatsit - the corrections needed to convert the Revell Mk I to a Mark II needed cutting off the entire front of the plane and replacing it with the resin update from Grey Matter figures, which was a non-trivial exercise! Before: After:
  3. Thanks for that Doug, I don't think she bought raspberries this time, but I will certainly examine the bottom of her strawberry's (that's a phrase I never thought I would use). Thanks Big X, in time you will learn that when money finds its way to me, I don't like letting it go - I don't like goodbye's. I normally don't buy when there is the remotest chance that I will be able to make an item myself. My corrugated panel experiment, although still in its infancy, is starting to show promise and I'm as stubborn as I am tight frugal. My investigations have had to be postponed today due to having to deal with Npower and then the rest of the day drafting a letter to Ofgem. But I persist in deluded idea that I'm inventive and I feel that eureka moment is near at hand (cue manic laughing…).
  4. Sounds like you had to do more sanding and filling than the old Revell Hurricane, but but's looking good now. Cheers Dennis
  5. Cheers Badder - thanks for the suggestions - all gratefully received.
  6. That's grand that is. May I make a couple of suggestions on the windows? Yes? Cool. You don't say what your problems were, but I'm guessing finding a suitable material, and getting it to stick to the frames? Well, I use the transparent plastic from food and product packaging. Margarine lids, vacuum packed toys, plastic-boxed living flowers, what ever.... You can search for the plastics which glue best for the glue you are using. Personally, I use medium CA to glue the 'glass' to other plastics and haven't had a problem yet. Gluing it to wood might be a bit more difficult due to the porosity of the wood, but all you have to do is spread CA onto the wood and let it soak in, and then, once dry, re-apply. This should seal the wood and form a layer of dried CA, which will then readily accept more CA. So, then you can glue the 'glass' in place. Failing that, you could always make your window frames with two identical frames, and a third with a larger 'hole'. So the idea is that the third 'frame' with the 'glass' inserted into the 'hole' is sandwiched between the other two. That way, you only need glue the frames together. The glass itself is held in place by the frames. And finally, yes, windows appear black if the room behind is not lit, but they don't appear matt black. Neither do they appear black from all angles, what with reflections etc. So I would go with the transparent plastic.. BUT, I suppose your windows COULD have been deliberately 'blacked out' with black paint, I THINK they might also have tape on them as well as a preventative measure against flying shards of glass during bomb blasts) ?? Just an idea. I am interested to see what your dio turns out like. Rearguards, Badder
  7. Great work, especially with that Fly Hurricane which leaves a lot to be desired with its fit! Watching your progress with great interest
  8. Sanding, filling and sanding... well it seems to have done the trick I'll need to slap some primer on to be absolutely sure though. I did make a very pleasnat discovery on the PE fret and in the instructions - they include a PE version of the strengthening strip for the underside which covers the horrible joint completely! In the previous two photos you might have noticed some filler in front of the UC bay. This is to fill the holes left byt he fitting slot for the alternative air intakes but since I'm goign to use the large Volkes filter, this needs to be filled. This does not seem to be mentioned in the instructions, but the filter does not cover this area completely The oil cooler is a work in progress as well, with 4 pieced of PE for each grill which go together without much problem with careful CY applications These are the resin cannons - the spring detail is nice and crisp and there are no moulding lines Which can't be said for the version on the sprues. note, these are the flat spring types as opposed to the round springs of the resin cannons. I see no need for aftermarket replacements for the resin cannons. Prop blades have been cleaned up and painted - there were some sharp mould lines on the edges, but these cleaned up without too much problem. I used a custom yellow mix to fade the colour down a bit. I won't be chipping the blade but I will dirty it up a bit later. Finally for this update, the scenery is being worked on as well .These still need washing and weathering...
  9. Both Evergreen & Plastruct do various corrugated sheets - in varying scales - Hatton's in Widnes is a good place to start - but lots of the traders on here sell one or the other too.
  10. We bought some Raspberries from Waitrose the other day and they had some corrugated material in the bottom of the container, might be worth a look.
  11. Last week
  12. Just your regular concrete, with a wide edging stone. Something to note, manhole covers are round or rectangular steel and embossed SPQR. Best I can do, I wasn't looking at the pavements.
  13. Yeh - they were just stacked up at the back of the shed - waiting for a late sunny summer evening - ready for the boys when they get back from fighting the hun - that & a cold beer. But seriously - I am building a proper base for this - but the Gypsy Moths I planned are killing me (1/48 A Model DH60's - very tricky for a beginner) - so for now it is just a grass mat as a base & a picture of a hedge & a south downs type back drop.
  14. Great! It's as if you had them ready........ It looks as if it's dusk, so more flying tonight. Trevor
  15. Hey Gorby - thanks a million for the kind comment - if only I could build a real "shed" for the garden
  16. That looks great, can I order one for the garden? I'm also working on an BoB RAF building – currently experimenting with making 1/48 corrugated panels for the roof. So far without much success.
  17. Hey Max - what do you think - deck chairs added...
  18. I like it a lot! A couple of deck chairs around the front.......! Trevor
  19. Well here it is folks – please be gentle – my first RFI… By the way - it is "going to be" a diorama - when I build a base This was actually built last year & was my first project – but I didn’t have a clue how to post pictures until today – thanks to another member “cathasatail” (thank you). The South Downs Flying Club is the fictitious aero club that Michael Caine’s squadron is sent to in the epic movie – The Battle of Britain. In the movie the club’s name has been white washed out – but it is still easy to see. This is obviously a scratch build with evergreen plastic & a lot of brush painted humbrol 70. I had trouble with the windows – so I added the shutters & closed 3 of them off. The others were “glazed” – but that didn’t work either – so… …the mother in-law – who is a bit of an “artist” pointed out that when she is painting windows they look black – rather than transparent – so black they are. I hope you like it & any comments would be most appreciated – I am still learning after all. Thanks for taking a look - I'm no David Bailey. Steve
  20. Ive built a few building from miniart the windows aren't to bad, it's a though somebody miss measured the doors. The Germans would get a surprise if the farmers wife did have a Marjorie Simpson hair-do.
  21. Great progress, how much work, I would love to be able to do it too, keep going forward. Cheers Badder
  22. I agree! The MiniArt doors are stupidly tall. Unfortunately every MiniArt building I've seen uses the same doors. When I made the first building I lowered the height of the doorway. Of course, I couldn't cut the kit door to fit (it wouldn't look right) and decided not to scratch a new door.....but as it was a ruined building, that didn't matter. I could do without. With this second building, lowering the height of the doorway/door would have meant having to cut away the plastic 'arch', drop it down a couple of 'feet', fill the space with plaster and carve new stonework above the new 'arch'.... and I'd have had to scratch build a new door to fit. This was something I wasn't happy to do. So, a doorway for giants it is. But then again, maybe the farmer wears tall hats, or his wife has a Marjorie Simpson hair-do? Badder
  23. Looking good, in regards to the over size doors I've got a miniart door in my spare box and it fits the gap for the front door. There must be giants on the continent.
  24. Thanks Badder, for the glazing ive got a old woodland scenics box I'm going to chop up, for the lower part of the building is plaster and balsa wood. This area should be ok, I've got a little stash of mini art bits that have built up. I will give it a go to see if it sticks, for the remainder of the filling I'm going to use some DAS as hopefully there will be less to sand down.
  25. Door handles added to the front door and 'barn door'. I've dirtied and worn the woodwork around the handle of the latter. At this late stage, I'm only now wondering how the 'barn doors' are opened and closed and locked! Logic would suggest that the main doors open outwards so that there's more storage space inside. In that case, all of the bolts must be inside and the doors must be unbolted and pushed open from within. (this explains the lack of a handle on the left hand 'door') The smaller 'wicket' door definitely opens outwards and presumably must have a key/lock to give access to the building from outside. So I need to add a keyhole and scratch-plate to the wicket door. And I will have to add a bolt to the hatch under the steps. TFL Badder
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