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Diorama Content

Showing topics in Diorama Chat, Work In Progress - Dioramas and Ready For Inspection - Dioramas.

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  1. Today
  2. t34

    Bugger it ,i am working on yet another diorama very similar to yours ,only using 2 Zvezda T34s ,The miniart Russian soldier with the German prisoners and a set of Tamiya and Icm figures . Not trying to get one over you ,been working on this for a couple of years ,wasn't happy with the tracks in the kits so replacing them with Miniart tracks . There are only a limited number of kits so not a lot we can do about that.
  3. Hi Ozzy. At the moment the building is 1cm short of being A4 size.... 18cm x 27cm.... and 25cm high at the chimney (without the chimney pots) But there will be the remains of a side extension which will add maybe another 10cm to the width. Rearguards, Badder
  4. Coming along nicely Badder, what are the dimentions of your buildings?
  5. Yesterday
  6. Having finished construction of the chimney, (barring chimney pot/s) I decided to restore it to something like its original colour. I've also painted various areas around the assembly, getting them a stage or two further towards finishing. The gable wall has received another dusting with plaster of paris powder and a bit of rust weathering powder. The gable wall's outer face is quite a large expanse of boring stonework, but I'm planning on adding a fair bit of moss. There will also be a lean-to up against it, and a tree and bushes. TFL Badder
  7. Excellent. That looks very realistic. The light and setting are just right.
  8. Finally took some outdoor photos of this 1/24 scale truck loading bay diorama. morning sun is not always the best to take pics, especially when it's winter. But it will do this time around.
  9. One corner edge of the chimney needed filling so I rubbed some wet plaster of paris along the join. I am now carving out the brickwork again. TFL Badder
  10. Beam fixed to the right of the chimney. One end fits into a recess in the chimney's brickwork. There's a lot more work to do at its other end. I've also been thinking ahead a bit, for when the walls are joined. With that in mind I've started the fitting process between the new gable wall and the side wall. Originally the end of the side wall had the stump of a return wall on the end. I had imagined that this stump of return wall would be the remains of an internal wall. But then I decided to add the gable wall on the end. So, I shaved the stump off. Now the side wall is of the same continual thickness and can join gable wall neatly. Having said that, I've carved vertical recesses on the ends of both walls so that they overlap each other and fit together with a greater contact area. This will make for a stronger bond with the CA. Then it will just be a case of applying a skim of plaster over the join and carving the stonework. It should be possible to see the 'overlap' bottom left. Below, the area of plaster will be skimmed over and the stonework carved. TFL Badder
  11. For whatever reason, MiniArt decided that the side walls of this building would be unequal in height, with the apex of the roof running off centre along the building. It seemed to me that the higher side wall would be more likely to collapse then, and as the upper floor window on the chimney end is closer to the side wall and the roof than the window at the opposite end, it was more of a weak a spot. I wanted this gable wall to be damaged, but deciding how much damage to depict wasn't easy. I experimented with various options, including a larger 'stump' than shown above, but it looked very unlikely. And since posting I've decided I don't like the look of the smaller stump either. I've now removed the stump entirely. Rearguards, Badder
  12. I bet a window frame would crack at the corner, good call.
  13. Last week
  14. Thanks Pete. Hey All, I have finished with the construction of all four sides of my internal support structure. The construction process was the same for all the sides... Fresh from the molds... Side four assembled... I sprinkled some salt over the primer to give the surface a little variation, then painted with a light grey... Four new sides to the internal support structure... That's a bunch of computers. Next up is doing the final prep of the base plate. Be back shortly... Rich
  15. Today I extended the stonework up towards the apex of the roof and added the last of the brickwork to the chimney. There's still a bit of tidying up to do here and there, and I still have to add at least one chimney pot. But I'm getting there. Having seen this photo I may 'knock off' that stump of stones to the left of the window aperture. TFL Badder
  16. Cheers Stix, Making moulds and casting plaster of paris is also new to me, so I'm having to think hard about things. I've made a few mistakes, but have learned a lot along the way. And of course, I'm always glad if someone finds my WIP useful! Rearguards, Badder
  17. t34

    Thank you guys!!! cheers Ratomir
  18. Have say that I like it as well and have been considering something along these lines as well! Anyone know if the SAS and the LRDG ever carried out combined operations during WW2? Alternatively, is there a website that lists the vehicles used by both services?
  19. Absolutely superb project Badder. Really useful tips and techniques! Thank you. Kind regards, Stix
  20. Nice work! I am working on something similar myself at the moment. Love the base, very well done!
  21. t34

    Very nice, like the offset model composition. The Vanquished and the victors moving next to each other, great work, nicely painted and weathered.
  22. Thanks Glynn, was a great piece to do and just let yourself go in the worn and wrecked department
  23. Thanks Rich, I'm glad you've found some of it useful. Reaguards, Badder
  24. This is great stuff! As a first time DIO builder I'm an empty sponge, Thanks for the wonderful seminars.
  25. I carved out a first floor window aperture beside the chimney stack. This window is sited here to provide lighting for the stairs. Meanwhile, the Gable wall has been painted up to mid-stage . Again a base coat of patchy grey was applied first, with black and white enamels dabbed in patches on the wall and mixed together unevenly) Then followed a coat of red brown which was rubbed back in places. Next, I gave the wall a brushing over with copious amounts of plaster of paris dust and regionalised patches of 'rust' weathering powder. This was sealed with matt acrylic varnish. I won't proceed with further painting/weathering until the adjoining wall is ready to be fixed in place, and the work around the first floor window aperture is finished. TFL Badder
  26. Hi, I look forward to seeing your LDRG Chevy and SAS jeep, both favourites of mine. You may find your 'soil' will be okay then, but there is always a risk. Remember, life will always find a way! I think it's just so much simpler to use sand/grit/powders etc and paint them. As for making track impressions in wet plaster etc, the usual methods are either: to use spare sections of track and press them into the ground. to use the tracks from the kit, BEFORE painting them and attaching them to the model, and wash them clean afterwards. to wrap cling film over the tracks of your tank and then press it down into the plaster. Hope that helps, Rearguards, Badder
  27. Couple of pics of the new building. The 'garage' building turned up when searching for modelable buildings at Wattisham. It is from a different era to the HAS & not likely to be too near them. However some of the HAS sites were on the old WW2 dispersal sites, so they could be just across a taxiway from each other. This was the pic I found (not mine by the way - link to the owners PB): And this is how it has come together: I wasn't sure about the roof so I guessed as a corrugated iron roof over steel trusses. The lights haven't gone in permanently yet, and the roof is detachable The walls are cardboard with brick paper over it - good old model rail style.
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