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A quick question - if I may - for the good folk on here who use Milliput specifically... I want to make a base section approx 2mm thick - with an area of about 8“ x 12“ - fairly flat - onto which I can push a few 'subtle' undulations. I then want to 'press' a hollow building into it - but only very lightly - to create the outline of the building in the surface and 'sink' it by less than 0.5mm. I want to create the sunken outline - but not fix the building at this point. I want to do this so it sits level when I come to fix it into place - much further down the line. My question is - if I cover my milliput sheet with a piece of cling film - will it remove cleanly later - when it has 'set like a stone' - or - will I have a piece of milliput - that I can't sand - as it's now covered in soft plastic that won't come off... Any tips or warnings would be most appreciated Thanks - Steve
GrahamS replied to Mancunian airman's topic in Diorama ChatWoah!!! They’re a bit nice! Well worth a read. Thanks for posting. Graham
Hello @Romeo Alpha Yankee (Ray). Which one, the large blue one made from a broken large G-Clamp with worn down flat files for vice jaws. Or the smaller hand size vice. If it is the smaller, then perhaps you were in the RAAF, where pre-traders (filies) had to make a vice with micrometer precision. I made mine at RAAF Base Forest Hill (Wagga Wagga), 1980.
This is really progressing well Peter. I noticed your vice in one of your pictures. I made one just like it many a year ago!. Though I don't have mine anymore, went missing when my father passed on and the contents of his shed were emptied.
- Last week
There is the matter of a boat traversing, under the bridge, in both up and down stream directions. Because the boat does not turn around, it is NOT to appear to be reversing (stern first) when coming back. To get around this, I decided to build a boat of symmetry. A boat with two bow sections. Bought two cheap wooden boat kits from China ($13.50 each). I played around with the boat image to see what two bow sections ought to look like. Here is the kit. This is my first model boat, and the little amount of instructions is in Chinese...great help that is. As you can see (below), the keel, deck, and cabin walls, get cut in half from the two kits and joined together. The planks were hard to bend, and knew that the glue won't hold the plank under such tension. Internet research indicated to use a planking iron, but I could not justify the cost. Came across a DIY method using a tea-candle and a tin can. It worked wonders. Shaped the planks to almost fit the hull shape. Since the boat is to appear to be in water, anything under the water line is to be removed. I drew the waterline. Added a waterline plank. Then filled in between with planking. Filleted the boat (like a fish). Sanded the bottom until it was all flat and smooth. Notice the two captains at the two helms.
Kallisti replied to Kallisti's topic in Work In Progress - DioramasPhotos now working so here is another shot of the CMP cab from a different angle, showing the filler required to fill some enormous ejector pin marks and here is all the components for the Scammell Pioneer painted with Olive Drab and with its first coat of Klear This needs a second coat of Klear and then will get the hairspray treatment in prep for the sand colour...
In September 1943 partisan take this town in Slovachia and German reacted with inf.Regiment 134 of 162 Turk Inf. Div. and the SS Polizei Regiment 19 supported of element of 13 verstärkte Polizei Panzer Kompanie, in this action was used 2 italian tank L 6/40 (German use many italian tank after 8 September). Any info up this action and this troops is welcome, for example the SS police in the picture look used anorak from mountain troops some known why? For see all the work in progress look here http://augustomotolo.blogspot.it/2018/02/kocevje-battle.html
Kallisti replied to Kallisti's topic in Work In Progress - DioramasNow that I've overcome the lurgy, I started back on this build. The claycrete finally dried out after about a week and the base is looking rather fab! I used a wallpaper roller to flatten the road surface while it was still moist and then used the wheels of both vehicles to create tracks in the 'sand'. I want to add some more sand - ie crush pastel chalks over that road surface but sadly Hobbycraft have stopped stocking pastel chalks in a pick-and-mix display and they are only in sets now The old display was excellent as each stick of chalk was less than £2 and when ground up produced a ridiculous amount of weathering pigment! Oh well... Anyway the build has continued on the CMP kit. This is an old kit form AIrfix and the mould was obviously getting on a bit even back then as there were a lot of mold seams, sing marks and ejector pins, but I've grown used to dealing with those in my build of Bandai Fire engines and Showmans Engines! So here are all the main components ready for paint - there are a couple of PE sand channels from resicast on the top right and the Eduard PE grille in the upper centre. I'm going to pose the doors hanging open. The rear has been given an initial brush painted coat of various browns to represent the raw wood which will subsequently be covered in the usual sand-coloured paint and weathered to show some of the wood through the paint. For some reason the photos I'd taken of the current stages in the Scammell build failed to upload properly, so I'll re-upload them and post another update later...
Thank you @GrahamS, @stevehnz, @Gorby, and @Corsairfoxfouruncle for your responses. __________________________________ Painted some 1/72 plastic figurines. Some are Counsil works in High-Visibility clothing. My friend, after seeing these figurines, said: "Blimey, there isn't that many people living in Wardell." The guy with his hand up, is my first altered figurine. He was the same as the one preceeding it. Since then I have been Dr Franfenstein with these little fellows.
Computing! These days it require a lot of smarts, and constant updating to stay abreast with it all. Good on you for going there. I started with computers when the first DIY computers came out for common folk. The SCAMP computer. All it could do was perform binary LED indications (1977). I was 23, I suppose I was a nerd then. I built a few computers after that, but I soon lost interest after I went into the RAAF _ a different ball game.
DaveJL replied to DaveJL's topic in Work In Progress - DioramasMore done. The interior was built up: Chassis was built next, quite fiddly in places. All components together: Chassis sprayed black: Will paint up some details such as the exhaust and brake disks before adding the cab. Not much of it will be seen and will be heavily weathered here. Interior was primed then sprayed: Some details on the dash to be painted black, along with the low range gear selector etc. Once this is done i'll weather this part and begin adding some kit. More soon. Dave
Paul J replied to Mancunian airman's topic in Diorama ChatExcellent stufff. Very inspiring. Thanks for the link!
Mancunian airman posted a topic in Diorama ChatI came across this and it has so many possibilities for your missiles, tanks and aircraft . . . . and yet it seems so simply http://dioramas-and-models.com/how to do it.html hope its an eye openers to many, certainly made me think of the possible use particularly towards the bottom of the page with my beloved aircraft trailing flames over the wing . . . .
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