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At least you've got a pristine one to work with as opposed to my pre-mutilated one
Dermo245 replied to Phil Lewis's topic in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpaceNice one Phil, thanks - got one in the stash to build and improve some day so need all the advice I can get! Cheers.
Thanks Dermo I used 1.4mm dia. brass tube for the core barrels and then matched up the plastic tubes by eye until everything looked about right. I also put additional smaller plastic centering tubes inside each end of the larger plastic tubes to hold the brass central. The largest diameter plastic tubes are 5mm dia. and the ones that telescope inside are around 3.5mm dia. Hope that helps
Dermo245 replied to Phil Lewis's topic in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpaceGreat work on bringing that one back to life The new blasters really are the business - do you remember what diameter brass rod you used? Cheers, Dermot
Hey....when those salvaged-from-wreckage, repaired-with-salvaged-parts-and-duct-tape X-wing engines explode, being in the sidecar might be safer than being directly on top of them (maybe just 0.001% safer)
Maybe it’s because no one knows what post Brexit deals will be agreed so are playing ‘safe’ just in case no deal is sealed for the ESA? There appear to be numerous tangental agreements that the U.K. signed up to when we entered the ‘EEC’ to which the vast majority of the population (me included) had no idea about. Europol and the pan European drugs standards agency are other examples. Would this have altered people’s votes? Who knows. Would it have made any difference? Again who knows, but for good or ill, these unexpected consequences will have to be tackled. I am in no way making political statements, it’s just that I get the impression that these unforeseen consequences are now surfacing One by one and solutions are having to be made on the hoof. Trevor
Here; https://www.theguardian.com/politics/blog/live/2017/nov/21/former-brexit-minister-urges-may-to-abandon-talks-with-eu-and-prepare-for-no-deal-politics-live?page=with:block-5a143b93092af00708ebb098#liveblog-navigation You'll have to go down to 14.43 to see the comment about the Galileo satellite programme.
It's not over yet Weathering proper began with a light dusting of Tamiya Rubber Black misted on in the areas indicated as having the greatest buildup of grime. I also tried a new technique of masking individual panels and markings and misting the rubber black at the edges in an uneven patchy manner. This gave me the following result. I then washed some Flory Grime and Black washes into the relevant spots that needed highlighting and also covered myself in fine glass fibres by using an fibreglass abrasive pen that's normally used for cleaning up circuit boards ready for soldering. The effect is subtle but it tones back the airbrushed grime layer and helps to highlight some of the raised details. I'll use gloves and a bit of protective clothing next time though. That stuff gets itchy Attention turned to Biggs' astromech droid who's designation (according to references) is R2-Q2 and is Grey with white and black highlights. Dome is partially airbrushed and masked for the white line but the details were hand-painted so don't stand up to the closest scrutiny. Macro is very unforgiving. I ran out of steam so the body detail will be done later. Flat clear applied, canopy masking removed and R2-Q2 nestled (temporarily) in his droid slot. So, aside from one semi painted droid and some details which I'll deal with as I notice them, this is almost, nearly, soon to be done I'll do a final update when I'm happy with the finishing touches and then post some better pics in an RFI Thanks for looking in Phil
So, that'll be the end of British Aerospace will it? No more British designed/built robots exploring the planets? No more borrowing French rockets to launch our satellites into space? No more working with the ESA? Will Britain tumble down the rankings of 'Space Science and Technologies'?
Indeed. I first realised this in 1977, aged 12, while collecting the Topps bubble gum Star Wars Collectible Cards. Still, I'd rather fly something with radar, computer aids, heads up display, canopies/cockpits and airtight hull than a rocking chair strapped to the side of a rocket. Rearguards, Badder
RichO replied to roma847's topic in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpaceManfred, The lighting products I use are a self contained unit. I don't have to solder anything, or worry about which color end is power or ground. I just simply touch the ends to a battery and they work. The distribution of power is a simple light switch for each "zone", I don't have to have a special unit for this. In USA these type of products are designed for lazy people who just want some lights in their model kits. Nothing special to do here, just plug and play. These products are available in the USA at "Ngineering.com". A model railroad site.
I recently got a load of stuff for a friend and UPS ended up costing a lot less than I thought. Very fast and avoided customs charges which was a bonus. All legal as well according to the driver. I've used Culttvmans shop recently and also rate them. Beware that a lot of sellers don't have stock and order back-to-back which often causes delays. These are then blamed on slow shippers (but I can check the actual shipping info so I know they tell fibs).
If you are bothered by the accuracy then may I suggest a 'fudge'? Why not have it horizontal on it's rail wagon? I'm sure someone somewhere can advise on N Gauge rolling stock. The different perspective will minimise the errors due to viewing angle. Just a thought. I missed Telford last year but my mate took several pictures of that Soyuz and had us guessing the scale. I was certain it was 72nd. Awesome model and well deserved winner.
I wouldn't either, but it's completely in line with the Star Wars ship aesthetic :). Millennium Falcon -- one entire side of visibility blocked. TIE Fighter and most of its variants - wings block at least 1/2 of visibility.
Thanks Koshey for your kind words, yep, that's it why I'm trying to scratch all these tricky details, because that's what gives it that extra something.
Hello Kirk, this I had tested in my first bending test with a 0.5 mm brass tube, This method is essentially easier than threading in the wires after bending the tube. Another important problem is the marking of the poles (+ -) of the LED wires. Therefore, with the wired LEDs, the cathode is always much shorter than the anode, which is why the marking must be taken into account in any case during further wiring. And also for this one needs a reliable and safe solution, so as not to get confused, possibly through a colored marking or similar. Therefore it would be interesting, how Rich has solved this problem during his crawler lighting, hey Rich?
Thanks Rich for your nice comment. I know, you speak from experience, maybe this mini soldering is really a painful matter, what I could imagine. Well, as not so experienced soldering pro seems to me that the threading of both wires without soldering of one of them at the tube anyway will be the simpler method and less stressful solution for me, whereby the wires should then be threaded in before bending the brass tube.
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