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Vehicle Content

Showing topics in Vehicle Discussion, Work In Progress - Vehicles, Ready For Inspection - Vehicles and Vehicle Reviews and articles posted in the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Absolutely gorgeous!
  3. Yesterday
  4. That sure is a beautiful blue. Do you mind if I ask you a question? I'm soon going to tackle the bodywork on my current enzo build, and I'm using zero paints tour de france blue, which looks a similar colour to yours. Did you use the silver base coat to highlight any defects? Or was it required to achieve the finished colour? I only ask, as there is no mention of requiring a silver base for my blue on the hiroboy website. Keep up the good work. Matt
  5. No big cheese to be made out of the rainfall evacuation in a racing car; there are plenty of openings inside a racing car, specially an 1927 car and specially at the openings where the axis of the wheels cross with the chassis. So no need for specific rain evacuation holes on the floors of these car. They where built banging pieces together not as a carbon monocoque chassis. What is important during a rainy race is that the pedals are not slippery, and water does not stagnate in this part of the car under the pedals. (And in old cars, that the electric cables and plugs are well insulated). Hence the possibility (not certainty) imho of this water evacuation function in the 806 cockpit of these small openings - if this is indeed what they are in the picture - and as per Hannes' well done drawing.
  6. Some nice clear middle-of-the-night hrs to welcome F1 back meant I could get on with some bits and bobs.. Some more wiring - given up on the MFH tie-wraps - just cannot get more than 1 in 10 to work... Wings needed more decals, and I did a bit of sanding, respraying the large main wing section. The white decals go on well enough - but they are thick, the clear coat almost exaggerates this... Folded the gurney flap pieces - not sure if I will use these or not...the potential for mucking them up and damaging the rest of the paint finish is high! One of these PE folding clamps is vital for this sort of thing. So then I went off-piste a bit. The inside of the cockpit is flat black and quite rough - laid-up carbon fiber/composite. Having just done the laundry, I thought I would try using the USED laundry dryer fragrance tissues, and line the inside of the bodywork, sticking it down with watered down PVA glue. I know that tissue paper has been used to create this rough (smooth-rough!) effect but it is quite delicate - thought I would give it a go - these USED tissues are actually very tough, so easy to pull around and handle. I say used because the pre-used ones are stiffer and full of....smell! I'll hand paint this area tonight with flat black and see how it looks...it might be too crude...
  7. Well, you are a dare devil. Courageous to put the chainsaw into this body. Will lead to an enormous amount of work later on to get everything fitting again.
  8. Olivier, Back in November, after 40 pages of the gangshow, I thought we were done. I did not believe we would find anything else. How wrong was I? Unfortunately, we can't just get our video cameras and capture every exquisite detail. We are left with the balance of probabilities. As we are seeing that balance is probably different for each of us. As a result any cars built will be different from each other, all will be right in their own terms and I suspect any that use this thread as a source will be much much closer than the base kit to that lost spectacular origninal. That must be a good healthy place for our hobby to be. When you go to Centro, and I'd love to be there, there is every chance you will come back with something new that we have never seen before. As Hannes says, the research part of this is facinating. Regards Nick
  9. Dear Olivier , that´s part 7 G . I´m about to make a new one from the Italeri part because my old one had too thick walls . The ratio between height and width is 1,45 : 1 imho. In my scale that´s a height of 5,8 and a width of 4 cm .Because the case bends a bit at the top, my final height will be about 5,75 cm I´m already advanced with my build and this brass foil helped a lot to bring all parts together . Maybe I should draw a scetch in the next days to show how this important part can get altered. Many greetings ! Hannes
  10. lovely model, well made, shame Revell didn't go down the 1/20 road. If any one goes to Blackpool big fair, The spooks ride, they have same car, a mock up, just very strange it being there, well was there 2015😊
  11. The hardest in all these questions we wonder is to think we won't have the answer. We would like so much to know if we were right or wrong in all these assumptions we have to do... A little as when you do difficult crosswords, and you check in the solutions page. Here, you can't check! Very frustrating...
  12. For what it is worth, I'd side with roy, harvey and black knight on the topic of rivets. Flush rivets are more or less invisible at distance. We discussed this some time ago and I thought we had reached this conclusion then. The same with the black holes. I'd also just posted thoughts on the strips a few pages ago that don't seem to have attracted any disagreement but are completely different from the position above. I strongly believe that they are not slots but are, for some reason, cut-outs perhaps used to bolt the undertray to the frame. Hannes drawings offer a clear description but I don't think they are right. Regards Nick
  13. Absolutely superb craftsmanship in every detail. Regards Ron
  14. Hi all getting there, never going to be one of my better efforts, but hey it is what it is.
  15. Coming home this evening on the M40 a low loader with an Opel Blitz truck and matching trailer. Very cool! Karl
  16. A good starting point...yes ....and I highly recommend the black pin vice....I have two! Also see my reply to Wayne above Ron
  17. Thanks Roy for your photos and your comment. I hope Paul will be able to help us on that question... I could ask to Sebastien too, but his book shows imho that he is more interested and focused on engines conception and construction than on frames ones. That said, the more I think to that question, the more I have doubts about this assumption (like you?). A good reason to have doubts is that all racing cars (including Fiat ones) of that period were opened and they don't have such slots. So we can imagine there were other solutions -and more simple indeed - to drain water, as you suggest, and the fact that the Delage did not have them, confirms this. The problem is that we even don't know if these slots are just the low part of the frame or if they are included in the bottom panel. In this case, the bottom panel as the kit suggests would be wrong, because it would be with slots itself, probably in order to decrease the weight of the car, compared with a full metal one.... N.B: I am surprised to see the numerous posts today, I will not have enough time to read them all tonight. It is a good new, after more than 90 pages, following the more than 40 ones of the Gangshow...
  18. Understood mate....here is another tip...if you need a 1.2 mm hole....first drill it with 1 mm engineers bit...then enlarge it with 1.2 mm MC...much less risk of breakage As for removing a broken bit from white metal...a similar principle to the plastic trick...use a fine point nib on a soldering iron (your new one would be perfect because of fine temp control) and carefully melt away the surrounding metal to provide you with enough to grip as before. If the base metal isn't 'true' white metal (i.e. lead/tin antimony mix) then it won't melt at all well....so....drill a series of holes around the original hole to again expose enough to grip and turn out. Will that do you Wayne? Ron
  19. That's the trouble with direct debits. They can take money when ever. They will give a free post address to return it to.
  20. Dear Hannes, I am sure indeed this thin brass sheet will be useful for me. I am not yet 10% sure to use it for the slots under the frame but it is quite probable. About the radiator case, do you mean the part 7G or the parts 132 and 133D?
  21. Hi all here's the next update.
  22. Dear Hannes, I have just tried to find this 1/24 paper kit on ebay, but I did not find it. Can you share with me the page, please?
  23. You're absolutely right. Since posting I've checked my account and noticed the £8.99 charge. This is unsolicited goods and have requested a refund.
  24. Thank you for the response! Maybe you find the three following contemporary pictures interesting. The first photo shows the rather intricate chassis of the original vehicle. The others show the typical engine peripheral of a (smaller) Büssing underfloor engine of the late fifties.
  25. When I built this model about 20 years ago ROG offered an additional line of enamels called "Car Metallics". I used here #395 Diamantblau/Diamond Blue but I am afraid that these enamels are no longer available. You can mix an almost identical shade rather easily using Humbrol enamels (or the corresponding Revell paints) as I did on these two models: 1956 Austin Healey 100-Six http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234951445-1956-austin-healey-100-six/ 1959 Jaguar Mk II 3.8 Saloon http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965259-1959-jaguar-mk-ii-38-saloon/ 15 parts Humbrol Aluminum Metallic #56 5 parts Humbrol Baltic Blue Metallic #52 1 part Humbrol Sunset Red Metallic #51
  26. I'm at the same stage as you. I would check your bank though as I was charged for that book. I've sent it back as is 8.99 an issue
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