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I, for one, certainly miss his inspirational builds and just flat-out brilliant advice on any number of things....it was his Aventador build on another forum that got me onto this one, and now I've seen so many of these amazing builds that I felt I had to post mine on here. And yes, it's still progressing, albeit at a garden snail's pace. Hope to see Roy come back soon!
Dear Hannes Thank you very much for this indeed. I have started an album where i collect all articles in different languages, and photos etc. with a usb for the videos. You are Mefistofeles in person i think, because now i am considering redoing the chassis - the dampers i will re arrange of course anyways, including increasing the angle of the outside front right which i intended to do long ago - but the chassis, i have done a lot of work already, and a few mm may not make a difference but i am studying the implications of re doing the chassis entirely, using some of the parts i.e the leaf suspensions etc. Also i really want to finish the car. I am itching to start a 70's F1 1/12 and i don t like to have 2 parallel projects. Cheers to you and thanks again Sam
Hi. Everyone. I really like to do gold plating on 1/8 Pocher Aventador body just like this vid I found on Youtube. but would the plastic strong enough to withstand gold plating? Can local plating guys could do such work easily? I have 0 knowledge on gold plating so if anyone could sort it out for me, it would be greatly appreciated. I live in Los Angeles so if anyone knows somebody could done this job around this area, please let me know. Also, by any chance, is Adam Croc ( OP for the Video) known in this scale modeling field? It would be really great if we can see this work in very detail. Any input would be thankful! Best, Jason C
Don't worry kev ask away I'm happy to help. All the colour coats of paint I've used on this so far have been zero paints only the primers have not been. I've only ever had issues with clogging with alclad gloss black base but I'm putting that down to more my fault than alclad as it wasn't too long after i first started using an airbrush. And I use my good old trusty iwata revolution CR for everything so the clear coat will also be painted with a 0.5 at probably just under 30psi as I find that works a little better at higher pressure. But for now I need to wait for a slightly better temp and humidity day until I can even think about clear as that's the big trick I've learnt is the better conditions the better finish. Shaun
Roof join No.2 Following a more thorough taping together of the body I found the roof needed to be splayed 3.5mm at the rear 7mm at the front. It's all good fun?! Now I'm considering a cutout for a sunroof...
Interesting, I'd have thought that was too small and you'd get issues with clogging, clearly you don't. I'm assuming you're using only Zero paints? As for clear through, what probably 0.2 what thinning ratio and pressure do you use? Sorry for all the questions mate just trying to learn.
Dear Sam , this is an article in the german " Oldtimer Markt " ( 2 /2014 ) I like the photo with the piston . And it´s very funny : The Papamobile ( Fiat Campagnola ) pushes the devil ! Many greetings ! Hannes
eureka replied to White Jedi's topic in Vehicle DiscussionI've being using the Halfords spray cans to paint my 1/14 r/c trucks for a while with good results all the time. With some of the metallic colours the metallic particles in the paint can appear a bit on the large size depending on the scale of the model. The latest Halfords ford metallic colour I have been using is Ford purple velvet. The metallic particles are quite subtle and small in that colour (going on a 1/14 stretched custom American style truck). I tend to give the body a light coat of Halfords plastic primer then move over to the correct colour of primer for the top coat (if it requires anything other than the standard grey primer).
Difficult to sort out this one.....I made the Tamiya Chieftain about 4-5 years ago, all the road wheels are held on by a vinyl hub caps, happened to check it a month or so ago, every one of them has cracked!!!! I can also confirm that PVA does just drop of, its water based and just doesnt stick. for small metal parts, I do find a thin covering of superglue cures the problem. I did finish last year the Trumpeter Faun Tank Transporter - you think you have problems with 2 x cars? This transporter has 36 Vinyl tyres.................2 different sizes and before I started the kit I must have spent months testing all options to make paint stick to vinyl tyres(at one time I had 10 tyres in a line testing various treatments to see which material would stick to tyres - it was a bit lick a "Which" consummer report) After about 1-2 months i arrived at only one product that would stick paint to tyres and so far all appear to be as they should be, painted and weathered...........the product I used is "Rust-oleum" Plastic Primer "Superior Adhesion".........you can get it in various colours, so as my Faun was being done in UN Bosnia scheme, I bought White..................as I said, appears to be holding https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=2&_nkw=rustoleum plastic primer&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684
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