This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
Magneto madness... I looked at dozens of vintage magnetos, but I couldn't find the ones included in the kit (drawing 2 magnetos). They were probably made by Magneti Marelli. I modified them with the images and information I found in mind, but it's still a guess. Evergreen, scrap PE, a dataplate decal and very thin (0,6mm) electric wire. More soon! Robin
I have been working first on my cross beam, doing the modif mentioned earlier: Then, I made well placed holes (with a 1,1 mm drill) in the sides of 7G to get good relations between my different parts (frame, grille, cross beam): Now, the hole for the crankshaft is in continuity: I have a little gap between my radiator case and my bonnet. Maybe I should have decreased a bit more my frame lenght in the front part:
Thanks BeastieBoy. Those are indeed the pens! They are are fantastic! Ive never really got on that well with Bare Metal Foil and when I saw these I thought they had to be worth a go! Great finish and so easy to use. Would really recommend them to anyone. I use the 4mm and 2mm nib sizes. Thanks everyone else for all great the comments too! Cheers Matt
These are the Pens I think we've been using. Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen. They do take a long time to dry and dull if touched too soon. They are great though. They are available in a couple of different nib sizes and refills are available. I'm now looking for a black paint pen, if anyone can recommend one that'd be great. Apologies if I'm not suppose to post links to items for sale. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Pump-Marker/dp/B01E7EG3NM
larchiefeng replied to larchiefeng's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesNot much to report today, I spent a couple of hours finding and downloading reference pictures and then printed what I thought would be the most useful. After I started spreading some of the pictures out, I just looked at my workbench and decided that, it just wasn't working for me. So, I spent the late afternoon and early evening making a new workbench top that, I can just put on top of the existing workbench. My countertop was 2' deep and about 6' long right there but, realistically, I only use about four feet. I made a 3' x 4' new top and added 4 square feet more of usable work space. I just got it screwed on over the other one and put my tools and things back on and I think that I'm going to really like this. This is something that, I had been thinking about doing ever since working on the Mercedes but, I never got around to doing it. I think that, with the Ferrari and having to use a notebook on the bench was the tipping point. I feel much better about the space now and I feel like I'll be able to work much better. I will post some pictures in the morning before I get it too messy and get going on the rear frame work.
Nick Belbin replied to mbdesignart's topic in Work In Progress - VehiclesDitto.
Robin, it is true that it did not need to be as shortened as I did, what is a bit curious. If I had to do it again, I would shorten it of not more than 3 - 4 mm instead of 7. Considering my grille was 8 mm shorter than the kit's one, it seemed to me logic to shorten the radiator of at least 6- 7 mm...
I saw one of these this morning in black all stock. I kinda prefer the blue myself. What are these pens y'all are talking about? Is it the same ones that activexp used to make his fantastic headlights here?
Another dry fit assembly to check the position of my radiator case. 2 "12" screws were placed in the backward case holes but I won't use them for my build. This check shows imho: - that my radiator case will have to be a bit more backwards and lower (black arrows) - the rod standing the crank hole is too long and too thick (see photo 20, fe) - the stops on the crossbeam will have to be removed, they don't exist in reality. Notice the epoxy cement added on the top of the radiator case, to get the same rounded shape than the one I got on my grille. This modif of the grille shape on its upper part allowed me to add a 51th rod. So, I am still closer from the good number of grille rods (52 imho)...
My radiator being prepared... Still a lot of work to do. The frame (that will be painted Alclad polished brass) has for now a big gap because of the necessary modif done. The S11 Aber mesh were ever cemented on 130 and 131D (deeply modified as seen earlier) but nothing was painted up to now... I want first to finish my radiator before the paint step.
Dear Hannes, no, I won't use brass sheet as you suggest. As Robin, I will just paint brass the plastic. The reasons? - I am not familiar with soldering - With my resin driver, the weight of my kit is ever quite "heavy", and I want my model to be placed on a rotary plate, not designed for a too heavy model. - I don't think I would have the skills for such a work. I will ever have to modify deeply the parts 132 and 133D (ever cut in height) to close the big gap caused by the increase of width, and even on plastic, this won't be so simple, taking all parameters in consideration...
I am doing a Ford Fiesta of the Paraguayan driver Augusto Bestard, which I had the pleasure of seeing in person in Erechim, in the year 2015. He competed for the South American stage of that year. This is the car: He is a Ford Fiesta R5, category below the WRC. I'm going to use a Fiesta WRC from Belkits, it's not the same car because WRCs are different from the R5 in some aspects of the body, but since I live in Brazil, buying a transkit is practically the price of a new kit (and the Two together gets really heavy on price), so sadly he'd been left with those differences. The belkits kit comes with asphalt wheels, so for this I'm going to use the wheels of the Citroen Xsara WRC from Heller, making some small adjustments to fit. It will look like this: Well, paint did all through masks, the decals will be customized, printed by a supplier here from Brazil. First layer was white throughout the car, then masks to red, and finally the black color, below some photos of the process: thanks!!!
The instruction sheet recommends to use either the decal 3, or the sticker that has the same dimensions. This photo (comparison with our photo 20) shows the digits are much too stretched in the sens of height. I will have to create my own masks...
Dear Olivier , if you intend to scratchbuild the frame for the radiator , brass sheet could be very impressive ( maybe soldered at the edges ? ) It would look very good if you see real brass trough the spokes of your wonderful grille ! Many greetings 1 Hannes
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 112 Members, 6 Anonymous, 325 Guests (See full list)
- Mr B
- Tony Oliver
- Mitch K
- Nick Belbin
- Graham Boak
- Lazlo Woodbine
- T7 Models
- franky boy
- Peter Marshall
- Adi Turcu
- bristol boy
- luis pacheco
- Maarten Bilo
- Andy G
- Eduard Scissorhands
- wayne 0
- Doug Rogers
- johnny akes
- Andrew Jones
- ordnance co
- The dragonborn
- FIGHTS ON
- John R
- Will Vale