Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

AFV Content

Showing topics in WWI & Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Work in Progress - Armour, Ready for Inspection - Armour, Real Armour, Armour Chat, large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above), Kits, Armoured Fighting Vehicle Reviews, Aftermarket, Diorama & Accessory and Reference Material and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Looking really good. They sure didn't stint the creature comforts for the crew though. Not too much different to some of the old girls I cut my driving teeth on 30 years later. Steve.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Geisbers 1/76 TOG II

    An interesting oddity, Sir. Well done.
  5. Stug III C/D by Bronco

    Thanks, Lloyd.
  6. Tiger I Mid Production w/interior

    That's a cracking looking gun/breach Are you going to apply the Zimmerit?
  7. Big As MAZ

    This just gets more stunninger as it goes on.
  8. M1A2 Abrams Tusk II

    Yes the take out food usually isn't that great the second time around. Here in Canucksville I've heard that Tamiya 1/16 static M1A1, not the RC version mind you, is going to retail for close to a grand. Way to rich for me and typical Tamiya, great engineering and moulding but skimpy on detail. The metal chassis and super duper metal torsion bars and metal swing arms and wheels are all wasted on a static display model in my opinion. Try one of those Rye Field Abrams. Other than the tedious track builds and a misplaced hinge or two for the side skirt mounts and a little fiddle with the add-on rear basket they are great models. The hatches, cupola and all of the TUSK add-on stuff fits great. I wouldn't go as far as the one with the complete interior but their other 2 are good, not real easy, but good. Lloyd
  9. Don't think I'd want a ride in this. Tanks really don't float that well and it must be a madhouse trying to get out of those hatches before it sinks. Scuba gear wasn't an option in those days I think. Brave men, a little foolhardy,and not all that swift either, but brave. Oh, the model looks great so far too. Lloyd
  10. Hi All I came back to these, and am now calling it a day. Apart from the poor molding, detail, and fit, the odd soapy quality of the plastic, the lack of decals, and the overall dire quality of the kit, I've others I'd like to build. I didn't enjoy tackling any of the problems, but if anyone else out there does relish a challenge, these are for you. Available for free, pm me and they're yours. Cheers Steve
  11. Tamiya Pz.Kpfw.II - First kit

    Mikeron ... i have the micro set/sol products. I only use micro set as ive found the sol can irreversibly damage decals ( ask me how i know ). I will use the set for decals. I brush the area on the model with it after soaking the decal in very warm (bath water warm) water for 15-30 seconds. I find constantly replacing my water after it begins to cool down also. If the decal is stubborn/older/or from an unknown source. By definition an unknown source to me is swap meet or hobby show as you have know way of knowing how they were stored. Personally when i buy a kit. The first thing i do is place them in watertight sandwhich baggies. I then place them in a file set-up for that specific model ie aircraft, armor, what have you. They stay flat and dry that way. I will also brush the Micro set on the decal paper for stubborn ones. For me it helps loosen the stubborn glue. Once i get the decal exactly where i am happy i use the edge of a paper towel from the kitchen to wick away excess moisture. I find a cotton ear bud can leave fibres. What with all the minutia of things hanging on a tanks surface can be happen very easy. If there is still excess fluid i lay a sqaure of paper towel over it and let it absorb naturally. if the decal moves & i need to move and/or re-center it i wet my finger with the warm water and move it that way. I will only use the Microsol if i absolutely need to. For instance a decal that just refuses to release from the backing paper, but i run the risk of destroying the decal. Its a balancing act. Hope this helps. Dennis
  12. Hey up - loving the beard... I did have a good look on google - but was hoping for some comments from the good folk of Britmodeller - who I trust to be honest and blunt where necessary in their opinions. I do like the idea of the pre done wheels / tracks though...
  13. Kamaz Typhoon K - 1:35 Takom

    Kamaz Typhoon K 1:35 Takom The Typhoon-K is part of a family of modular armoured mine resistant vehicles (MRAP) developed for the Russian Armed Forces by Kamaz. There will be a complete family of 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8 vehicles developed. The interior features individual seats with weapons holders and head restraints. The seats are attached to the roof of the vehicle to reduce the effects on the personnel of mines. The vehicle itself is designed with reference to a NATO classification STANAG 4569 to withstand a mine containing 8Kg of TNT. The vehicle is also bullet proof using ceramic/steel armour for rounds upto 14.5mm, this also extends to the glazing. Auto inflation bullet proof tyres are also fitted. The crew can return fire from inside the vehicle using loopholes, and provision is made for a remotely operated gun platform. Entry is normally through the rear ramp though there roof hatches fitted. To date 260 have been built with the first vehicles appearing at the Moscow Victory Day parade in 2014. The Kit This is a welcome new tool from Takom who seem to be on a mission to bring us less mainstream vehicles. The kit arrives in a larger than usual box, when opened the large one part moulding of the upper body of the vehicle really stands out. There are a further four large sprues, a small clear sprue and a small photo etched fret. It should be noted that Takom have provided a full interior for this kit unlike some of thir smaller armoured cars. Construction starts with the chassis which seem fairly complicated, very much I suppose as the real vehicle is. The two sides are separate (left & right) with one large component for each side to which a large amount of chassis and attachement points for the suspension are added. The larger parts which sit between the main wheels are added last. When each side is complete the two sides of the chassis are joined together with three large central components. The suspension units for the three axles are then built up. These feature moveable steering, however the stubs for the moving parts have to be heated and flatened in a somewhat dated method of construction. Once these are on the "V" parts of the lower chassis can be added along with other additional armour parts. The chassis can now be flipped over to work on the inside. The main floor is laid in, and once down the seating along the sides of the main compartment can be made up and added. The front bulkhead of the main compartment can then be added. Up in the front compartment the driver and two passenger seats are made up and added, along with the dashboard and steering wheel. The front compartment can then be added to the chassis. Moving on to the one part top moulding additional internal parts are added along with the front bulkhead to the driving compartment, The seven top hatches are made up and installed along aerial housing and the main filter housings with their PE grills. The drivers compartment doors are constructed and added to the upper body along with the windows. The rear view mirrors are also added to the doors. External steps and a front sun visor are also added. To finish off a variety of external grab handles/lifting eyes etc are added to the main upper hull. the main rear bulkhead is added and the upper hull is then fitted to the lower chassis. The rear ramp is constructed and added in either the open or closed position. The last item is to build up the wheels & tyres and add them to the model. Markings Markings in the kit are sparse as the real vehicles dont seem to carry much. There is a simple set of red stars, and a set of bordered stars featured on the parade vehicles. Conclusion It is great to see Takom kitting these subjects. We have had many western MRAP vehicles mainly as they have been used extensively in recent conflicts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  14. Renault Ft-17 FlyHawk 1/72

    i can't believe this is just 1/72, be honest, you just have an overscaled lighter at home that you use for taking these pictures
  15. i absolutely love the weathering, you kept it simple, you didn't overdo it, but still is of great effect and very realistic finish, that's the best possible outcome for me
  16. Tamiya 1/35 Wespe

    Thought I'd add a pic of the interior pre-weathering, considering not too much is visible on the final piece.
  17. Welded Cromwell Mk.Vllw.

    Thanks a lot Granto. Much appreciated. John.
  18. 1/16th Renault Ft

    Nothing like a bit of dirt to make a model come to life. John.
  19. Looking good Clive. Personally, I wouldn't change the headlamp brush guards. They look fine to me. John.
  20. British 6-Pound Anti-Tank Gun

    Ah yeah so they do, it looks pretty good. Thanks a lot
  21. Last week
  22. Takom Finish Marksman

    Does anyone know if Takom have correctly depicted the Czech engine deck in this kit? These vehicles were built on 2nd hand East German Czech-built chassis, not converted from the original batch of Russian built T-55s. AFAIK none of their T-55s to date have included the Czech parts.
  23. Hesco barriers

    ET Models make a couple of sets with different etched brass mesh cages, but AFAIK no liner bag. There are now several companies making that type of product: HESCO was first and probably still best. Voyager make a set with etched brass mesh and a fabric liner - you add your own fill, just like the real thing. As noted above, model railway ballast is probably most economical. You could put a false floor in so that you only need a thin layer of fill. Royal Model do some resin ones, but RM products are typically expensive. I have seen some unbranded resin ones on eBay but I suspect they are home-cast knock-offs of one of the branded products. There are types of barrier that don't have the mesh cages, relying instead on a cellular fabric structure to contain the fill and the fill itself to provide the strength for stacking. I think DefenCell may be one of these. Different countries use different makes of product, so check your photos. Your photo with the PzH2000 looks like HESCO to me.
  24. Matilda MK.III/IV

    Hi Richard, I thank your interest. More news soon as possible. Cheers
  25. A Heng Long King Tiger whenever I get my backside in gear and start/finish painting him
  26. Just a note that it seems some of these kits shipped without the tracks in them, if you have one check it and contact Takom/your retailer if appropriate. Julien
  27. Trumpeter 1/16 Panzer IV type H

    Thanks David Thanks John
  28. 1/35 King Tiger

    Are the tactical numbers decals or stencils? - Look great either way
  1. Load more activity
×