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Changing the font is simple, will change that. The two lengths of green strip will be enough for the bustle and turret. Where do you put the rear vehicle ID's when airco units are fitted? On the rear mudflaps? I made a test sheet this afternoon that is now drying. I'll give it a test this week before running up some final prints.
Ozzy replied to clive_t's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourStunning build Clive, you've definitely got a talent for non wingy things. Looking forward to seeing all elements come together.
Hi Pals, today I would like to share with everyone, this model in the WIP section, instead of the RIP, although it is already finished. The reason for this is that it was one of the first ones I did, when I resumed my hobby after many years, and I was not yet a member of the forum, and did not even notice, that I could document the assembly, or share the result afterwards ... Although not bad, IMHO, if we consider that it may be the 4th or 5th model that after about 20 years without touching the hobby, still did not have many resources or utilities of new generation, and new techniques, was still discovering them. The kit, is a ZVEZDA, and should really be an Oldie, because if at the time (about 15 years) that "sleep" in a closet, you add what probably had been packaged since its manufacture ... It was made of light gray plastic, and since most of the kits I had kept, the halves of the hull, were somewhat crooked, so I had a hard time straightening them and keeping them aligned. Some pieces were also broken in the process, although I could fix them. What really annoyed me, is that at the time of making the cannon, were all the pieces, except the cannon, damn ... In that moment of beginning of the hobby, the metal cannons for me were an unknown totals, besides being very difficult to obtain. It occurred to me how to fix it with the means at my disposal, namely, in the box of spare parts, I had a 76mm gun of the Sherman of Italeri, already mounted and kept "centuries" of a kit become pieces. Since there was a staple where the missing piece had to be, there was a perfect gap between one end and the other, so I just had to cut the Sherman's cannon "tailor-made" and adjust it. I modestly believe that the result was good, feet their measurements I checked them by doing scale conversion calculations. The point that certainly was, and is not the last time that happened to me (ISU-152 same case), are the tracks that brought the kit, extremely little detailed and with a very rigid and unnatural plastic. With this issue, the same as with the metal cannons, Friuls or similar ... What is that ?? ... lol. As always, I tried to do my best with what I had. As for weathering, similar, I had some new products (pigments, and enamels), but very few and not knowing how to use them properly ... test-error. I remember trying to make a modulated painting, leaving the base color much clearer at the end, but I liked it as it was. Basically, the final result, made me continue the hobby, and did not think about discarding the kit, which served me well to train with the new in the world of modeling. Now, after about 2 years built, I decided to try to improve it, because all the handicaps mentioned above, I have been solving with the passage of time. My idea is to put a new "slippers", metallic drag cables (what brings, I think they are pore of scale, very thick?), And a more aggressive and real weathering. With that I think I will win this modest kit a lot. Here below I leave a few pics, as it was finished at the time. You can easily see in some pics, the roughness of the tracks ... Next week, next update (i hope...), as always, thanks for watching and commenting
FrancisGL replied to FrancisGL's topic in Ready for Inspection - ArmourThanks for your kind comment, cheers Koum
AgentG replied to italian intruder's topic in Cold WarThe ones I remember were a really, really yellow green color. That said, like anything else in the military, go look and you won't find two that are painted the same. G
T-60 Soviet Light Tank 1:35 MiniArt The T-60 was the result of the ongoing development of light tanks that had started well before WWII. This particular tank started development in 1938 as an attempt to replace the T-26, T-40, the failed T-46 project and the T-50. Whilst such a large number were produced, it was hated by all who had to deal with it – all except the Germans, who found it to be a substandard and underwhelming opponent, and a rather nice ammunition carrier or gun towing tractor, once captured. As a result of its poor armour, substandard armament and sluggish performance, it was more dangerous to its crews than anybody else, earning it the title Bratskaya Mogila Na Dovoikh, literally: “a brother’s grave for two.” The basic design was completed in a mere fifteen days, and Astrov, seconded by Lieutenant Colonel V.P. Okunev, wrote to Stalin contrasting the advantages of the mass-producible T-60 with the more complicated T-50, which had already received the go-ahead. An inspection from a senior minister resulted in two decisions: firstly, the 12.7 mm (0.5 in) machine gun was to be replaced with a 20 mm (0.79 in) ShVAK, although it was still inadequate against the Panzer IIIs and IVs that the T-60 would almost certainly engage whilst there was a shortage of T-34s. Secondly, the Main Defence Committee (GKO), headed by Stalin, ordered 10,000 T-60s to be produced immediately. Some sources have claimed that Stalin’s interest in the vehicle is because he attended the vehicle’s final trials in person. The displacement of the Soviet industry in 1941 disrupted production and further refinement of the T-60. In autumn, Zavod Nr 37’s work on the T-60 was transferred to Zavod Nr 38 at Kirov and GAZ in Gorki. Shortly after, industrial evacuations continued, and GAZ was the sole producer of the T-60. In 1942, the T-60’s frontal armour was increased to 35 mm (1.37 in), which was still inadequate and made the tank more sluggish. The GAZ-203 engine gave the T-60 theoretical speeds of 44 km/h (27 mph) on road and 22 km/h (14 mph) off-road, but this was always difficult to achieve as a result of horrifically bad mud and snow. Replacing the spoked road wheels on the 1941 model with all-metal disc wheels, especially as a result of rubber shortages, did not help alleviate this problem either. The development of removable track extensions also did little to help mobility. Finally, any attempt to increase the calibre of the gun proved difficult. There were attempts to replace the main gun with a 37 mm (1.45 in) ZiS-19 or a 45 mm (1.77 in) ZiS-19BM, but proved unsuccessful as a result of the small turret. By the time a redesigned turret with the ZiS-19BM had passed trials, the T-60 as a whole was cancelled with the introduction of the T-70 in late 1942, although 55 T-60s were produced in 1943. The Model The kit comes in the fairly standard, yet sturdy and colourful top opening box MiniArt use, with an artists impression of the vehicle on the front. Inside there are thirty three sprues of varying sizes, mostly small, in a medium to dark grey styrene, along with one sprue of clear styrene, two small sheets of etched brass and a smallish decal sheet. As with most MiniArt kits there is a huge amount of detail contained on the sprues and in this one there are around 482 parts, including the etched brass. The styrene used is much nicer than the older kits from MiniArt, being much softer and less brittle. If you read my article on the company HERE you will understand why this improvement came about. The mouldings are superb with no imperfections and very few moulding pips. Some of the smaller parts, and there are a lot of them, do have a fair number of sprue gates, but fortunately they are relatively small and shouldn’t cause too many problems. The sheer number of parts is explained by the fact that this kit is equipped with a full, and I mean full interior, which for a model/vehicle this size will mean you will need a magnifying glass/Optivisor when building. The build starts with the lower hull floor, to which the drivers position is attached, complete with detailed gearbox, levers and brake drums. Then there is the comprehensively detailed engine, which is a model in itself, and has more parts than some whole kits, around 22 in total. The two batteries and battery tray are then added to the left hand side of the hull adjacent to the drivers position, followed by the right side panel which is fitted with a fire extinguisher and four support brackets. The rear bulkhead is fitted out with several parts on the outside, before being attached to the lower hull, as is the lower glacis plate. The engine assembly is then glued into position and connected to the gearbox via a couple of drive shafts. The interior is slowly built up with bulkheads, ammunition racks with spare ammunition drums and boxes and another fire extinguisher. The left hull panel is then attached, along with the outer drive covers, idler axles, internal longitudinal bulkhead and several pipes. The upper hull plate is fitted with several panels before being glued into place. The drivers hatch is made up from five parts, while the drivers vision block is made up from six parts. Both assemblies are then glued to the driver position, and can be posed either open of closed. Depending on which colour scheme the modeller has chosen there are two options for the style of headlights to be used. The suspension arms are then glued to the hull, followed by the road wheels, return rollers, drive sprockets and idler wheels. The engine cover is next made up of three plastic and two etched grille pieces. This is then glued into position on the top deck, along with the drivers access and viewing plate. The tracks are each built up from eighty five individual links, which, unfortunately are not click able, but have to be glued, making it a little more awkward to get the sag and fitted around the idlers/drive sprockets. But with plenty of patience and care they can be made to look the business. The track guards are fitted with many PE brackets, as well as storage boxes, pioneer tools and a nicely detailed jack. These are then fitted to the hull and the build moves on to the turret. There is a large PE grille fitted to the rear engine deck along with a PE surround. There are two covers that go over this if winterising the vehicle, each plate is fixed with four to six PE wing nuts. While the turret is very small there is still plenty of detail packed into it. The turret ring is fitted with commander’s seat, ready use ammunition locker, plus traversing and elevation gearboxes and hand wheels. Inside the turret itself there are two four piece vision blocks, spent ammunition plug, vent cover, the breech and sight for the main gun which is slide through the trunnion mount, as is the three piece co-axial machine gun. The turret roof is fitted with a two piece hatch and before it is glued into position the machine gun ammunition drum is attached and the spent cartridge chute to the main gun. The roof is then attached, as is the outer mantlet and barrel cover of the main gun. The turret is the attached o the hull and the build is finished off with the fitting of more PE brackets around the hull and the engine exhaust glued into position. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for eleven different vehicles, seven Soviet vehicles and four captured units re-used by the Wehrmacht. All of the vehicles, with the exception of one are from unidentified units. The one vehicle whose unit is know is from T-60 of the 64th Tank Brigade, 21st Panzer Corps, 6th Army of the South-Western Front, Kharkov offensive operation of the Red Army, May 1942 Conclusion This is another amazing kit from MiniArt and brings yet another lesser known military vehicle to the mainstream modelling community. With the numerous parts count and the large number of very small parts, this kit is really aimed at the more experienced modeller, but looks like it should build up into a superb model, absolutely full of detail, so much so that there shouldn’t be any need for aftermarket parts. Since I received this sample, two more versions have been released. Review courtesy of
badger replied to Phil Lewis's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourWelcome back! That's turned out nicely! Really impressed with the water effects. Ben
That's a very neat job you've done on the Zimmerit, although I'm wondering if it's TOO neat? I suppose it depends on how you are going to depict the Elefant, beat up and dirty, or fresh to the fight? You could ask why Tamiya don't cut out the holes, OR make 'beaten up' Zimmerit as well? I have their Tiger I Zimmerit sheets for the future, and I'm wondering how easy it would be to 'beat them up'? Have you tried? I am looking forward to seeing how you progress because you are producing a tidy looking beast and I can't wait to see how you weather it. Following, Rearguards, Badder
Badder replied to koum dim's topic in Ready for Inspection - ArmourNice job with the weathering. If it's your first go at it it's excellent and you'll soon be producing some stunners. Just a tip on the chipping.... look at photos of/or real old vehicles and see where the chips occur. For a truck like that there'd be dents and chips on the trailing edge of the doors (from the door handle area down) where the bonnet meets the side panels, along the tops of the drop sides and rear 'tail gate', and the framework for the canvas 'roof'. And of course the fenders/wheel arches. All of those areas are likely to be chipped first and it's those you should concentrate on, rather than just placing the chips more randomly. The only other suggestion would be to make your mud/dirt a colour which shows up better. Your mud/dirt is actually very good, with a great texture, but it's a bit lost against the background colour. (And again, make sure the mud is placed where it would be on a real vehicle) I am of course being pernickety, you've created a very nice model, but those small changes will really make a difference. Rearguards, Badder
The whole point about this hobby is that it's supposed to be enjoyable. If you aren't enjoying it then it may be that modelling just doesn't float your boat. Perhaps it is just this kit: I steer clear of tanks because of all the little wheels and assembling the tracks, but even as an aircraft addict, I like doing the occasional vehicle, so why not put the Cromwell aside, and do something else, like and armoured car or a truck. Don't gauge your own modelling ability against others. Some may take an hour, but believe it or not, some take years to complete a model. This is about your enjoyment and is entirely what you want to get out of the hobby. Recently my mojo failed: so I left it alone for three months until I felt that I wanted to continue. If you force it, it squeezes the fun out.
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I am currently building a Hobbyboss Defender hardtop. The clansman TUUAM boxes don't really fit the era I was going for so I wanted to use BOWMAN. The only ones I have seen are done by Accurate Armour, however for the pics the casting doesn't look great and converting UK to NZ makes them pretty expensive. Does anyone know of another company that makes them or has experience of the AA ones to maybe advise me of their quality. Thanks.
Not the right forum maybe. But I'm having trouble viewing forums over on Missing-lynx. Just getting re-directed to a Network54 not found and search page (when searched no mention of ML forums) If anyone is also a member on ML, can you have a peek and let me know. So I can figure out if it's something on my end. Ta very much Tom
Sgt.Squarehead replied to Robby's topic in WWIIDo you have any images of what they have done to it? It was a beautiful kit, I have three or four of them in the stash and a similar number of Ausf G (no Ausf F2s sadly though). PS - Just found one of my earlier comments regarding the original subject:
Tony Oliver replied to cambridge's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourSorry its late but as promised: Been in storage for about 3 years from when I got sick of making tigers. Spec - Dragon kit. White zimm is tamiya two part epoxy putty. Pattern made with roller tools. Putty doesn't etch into plastic so chips off quite easily for damage. Putty has a long period of being workable. So the reason for pics - The glacis plate. This was done with rollers too, but a layer of mr surfacer used instead. This makes is visible from overhead but it disappears from a low angle like man height period pictures. Narrow window to work with it. Too soon and its everywhere, too late and you can't make ridges in it. Above - Vision ports done with mr 500 too. Low angle - just a hint of it. Will be reduced more once painted and weathered. Cheers, Tony
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