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AFV Content

Showing topics in WWI & Interwar, WWII, Cold War, Modern, Work in Progress - Armour, Ready for Inspection - Armour, Real Armour, Armour Chat, large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above), Kits, Armoured Fighting Vehicle Reviews, Aftermarket, Diorama & Accessory and Reference Material and articles posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Hi Stefan. Got to agree with the others - you are definitely demonstrating very impressive scratch building skills! Kind regards, Stix
  3. Jadgtiger

    Sounds like it. I used to play the drums in a heavy rock band before my illness took it's toll. But even then, repetitive striking does cause damage. I would imagine belting metal on metal would be even worse! Have you ever thought of becoming a cocktail maker? All that shaking..... I do have two jigs for PE yes. But for those complicated parts where you are having to bend something in all three dimensions and back on itself, it all gets a bit confusing. It doesn't help if the instructions were written in Ukrainian and then translated poorly into English. And whoever drew the diagrams needs to be the first up against the wall when the revolution comes! Rearguards, Badder
  4. That looks excellent despite the ten year's worth of trials and tribulations! Great looking winter finish. Very well done. Kind regards, Stix
  5. Today
  6. Tiger 1 of Das Reich

    Hi Pete, thank you and if course you are right. The tankers are from Alpine. Nice figures. The Archer is for sure a must-have-item and it's on my list as well... Luv the...errr...rustical look. Cheers mate. T.
  7. RyeField 1/35 Abrams M1A2 TUSK II

    Those tiles on the turret look real good all lined up like little soldiers and I like the subtle color variations. I know you haven't finished the weathering but it looks good already. Shouldn't that exhaust deflector on the rearmost turret rack be a sort of burnt paint rusty color. I think they hung that over the turbine exhaust when in convoy to avoid frying the guy behind or when doing maintenance or just to stop dust blowing and it tended to get pretty hot with 1500 degree exhaust. Could be full of it but I think that's what it's for and it got pretty abused. Oops, guess I should read my own comments, "you haven't finished the weathering". I'll go back to that nap I was having now........ Take care, Lloyd
  8. Scorpion and Paras in OP Corporate

    What!! your not trying to flog him bar armour Kallisti?
  9. E-100 128mm Waffentr├Ąger

    Can you bend the tracks back into shape when placing them in hot water? Tracks are of a different plastic, but does it work just like styrene and such? Heat, bend and reshape them, or are they too elastic for this to work? The detail is looking good. In 1/35 this thing would be even crazier. Prost, /Stefan
  10. Meng cute KV2

    Thought the same when I read this earlier. The cute series is looking great though. I am enjoying Dan's ones here and the KV2, still not sure about the cute part^^, is looking impressive with his additions. Excellent job!
  11. M109A3/M185A3 Shop Truck

    Overall base color of US Forest Green. Vehicle will be in Winter Verdant MERDC. Using AK Interactive paints. Will be using dash instruments and placards from Archer transfers.
  12. 1/35 T-34/85 Tank

    Yep Jim. He had indeed. He was a tank officer and he was caught by the red army in 1945 in the Kurlandkessel. He came back in 1953 from Siberia. Long time mate... It was him that woke my interest in tanks an I still got his Iron crosses... Cheers T. PS. Sorry, I know it is a modellers forum only, so my next post will jusr deal with models, not grandfathers...
  13. trumpeter spares

    can purchase from here. http://part.trumpeterkit.com/
  14. Many thanks for your like and kind comments, i'm glad you like it, cheers Jason
  15. AFV Club Centurion MK 5/1

    Thanks gents, much appreciated.
  16. Hi Gav and thank you very much for your very kind comments. And I have added some hyphens here and there! - thank you for the heads-up. Kind regards, Stix
  17. Easy 8

    Thanks for the info man, pretty sure the instructions said it was white, but ill take a second look at them and make the appropriate changes. i haven't done a whole lot of American armor so this type of info is much appreciated. W/ the cupola and tools, etc. I still have a list of smaller details that need to be fixed like previously listed. Mark
  18. USMC Recce pair (and their mate!)

    Great progress so far! Those driver's compartment interiors are really coming together. Unfortunately, I cannot remember where the radios were in the -M and TOW - sorry. The years haven't been too kind to my memory for those details. Here are some more drawings from the technical manual with some details for the interior. Here is the Annunciator Panel, it is pretty obvious when looking into the compartment through the top hatch. It replaces the idiot lights found on car dashboards. It also had an incredibly annoyingly loud alarm when anything was awry. The body (dark area in the drawing) is OD Green and the light area was white. The lights (items the numbers point to) were red LED's. 32 - Annunciator Panel by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Here is some info on the driver's seat., they were the same in all the vehicles, but I cannot remember what the VC seat in the -M and TOW looked like. They were probably more like the -25 turret seats which had fixed back rests and hinged seats. The seat was on a spring and could rise and fall, the seat bottom could drop down so that it was out of the way when standing in the hatch. The VC in the -M & TOW would spend most of their time standing in the hatch, so having the seat out of the way would be very helpful. The driver's hatch seat was pneumatically raised and lowered with a switch on the drive selector pedestal. The back was hinged to lay down to enable access to the emergency escape hatch on the left side between the driver's compartment and the turret. The seat was surprisingly comfortable for sleeping when the back was laid flat, especially if you put a case of MRE's under the back - it raised the back just enough to keep your head slightly above your waist. 33 - Driver's Seat - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 34 - Driver's Seat - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The two pedestals on the left of the steering wheel have the controls for the driver's seat height, drive selector (4 wheel or 8 wheel drive), hand throttle, the gear selector and the transfer case gear lock. The seat height and drive selector are rotating switches that rotate from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock positions. The hand throttle is a twist operated knob used to adjust the engine idle speed when the engine is running, but the vehicle is not moving. The gear selector is like that found on a car with an automatic transmission. The transfer case gear lock, when engaged, inserted a metal rod between the teeth of the main gears in the transfer case - it was basically a mechanical parking brake. 38 - Drive Selector by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 39 - Transfer Case Gear Lock by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The pneumatic system is self filling via an air compressor in the engine compartment and stores the compressed air in the bottles on the wall to the very left of the driver's compartment. The system takes about 5-10 minutes to fill after starting the engine. The system controlled most of the operating features of the vehicle - trim vane, marine drive propellers, parking brake and driver's seat height. The bottles are connected and store quite a lot of air when full. There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rear bottle, we were supposed to drain the bottles every day so that the condensation that found it's way into the bottle could drain and not rust through the wall of the bottle. I had a bottle rupture once due to not being drained enough - it scared the complete crap out of me. It sounded like a gunshot in the hatch and hissed very loudly as the air leaked out for about 5 minutes. Once the bottles were empty, the parking brake engaged and the vehicle was disabled until maintenance installed a new bottle. The replacement bottle was primer red and contrasted nicely with the other two seafoam green bottles. 35 - Air Bottles by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Another particularly obvious item in the compartment is the driver's night vision periscope. The center of the three periscopes was removable and could be switched out with a night vision periscope. The scope was rested on the left transom when not used. It was secured with a black rubber strap. The scope was electrically powered via a receptacle on the forward edge of the instrument panel. The scope was typical of night vision during the gulf war. It magnified starlight or the IR lamp on the headlight assembly on the front of the vehicle. The scope - we called it a "fish bowl", was a little tricky to use as the green light made it very difficult to judge depth so it was a little like driving by braille. It also hung down quite a bit and reduced the clear space above the steering wheel which let to sore knuckles from smacking it when you turned. The scope also rotated about 25 degrees to the left and right to aid cornering. The top of the scope - the 2 cubes and the angled mirror assembly were NATO green to match the exterior camo paint and the body was white. The plastic cover was bright orange. 36 - Night Vision Periscope - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 37 - Night Vision Periscope - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr That is probably enough for tonight. Next up will be the steering wheel and the controls mounted to the steering column. If you want anything in particular first, let me know. Arrin
  19. Yesterday
  20. Takom Tiger II Cutaway

    Thanks, must remember to re wet it when taking out. Whilst waiting for the track sections to dry I've done the tools , a little bit of tidying up but quite happy.
  21. Thanks again ­čśŐ @Sairou The inside effects were done buy using color chipping buy painting on lighter shades of grey and to paint blackbrown inside these areas. So basic chipping approach. Then I worked the area with Vallejo wash for grey vehicles, I wanted to buy a grey wash, but I misread the label. Then I applied some brown oil paints here and there and did some streaking with that as well. The idea for the final finish is to have one guy standing on that let down side, so he is bringing dirt and damage to the paint. Yeah might be a bit over done with the almost new appearance of the other side panel. But it is as it is now.
  22. Pz.kpfw. IV ausf. G - Dragon 1/35

    Looking really good Chris. The weathering is great, love the ice on the tracks and suspension and like the missing track sections, looks like it's been in action. The figures really set it off, those guys look pretty cold, probably wondering if a hot meal is coming. Take care, Lloyd
  23. IDF M51 Batch Four.

    Thanks G. I used Milliput for the weld beads and sadly, I slightly overdid it. Still, it's getting better with each model. Another ten and it should be perfect. John.
  24. LVT (A)1 Amtank - 1/35

    Great presentation of this well built kit.Enjoyed Cheers.
  25. Hobby Boss Nagmachon APC (early)

    Interesting color comparisons. I have always mixed Tamiya XF-49 and XF-20 in various ratios to achieve the more modern color. Adding various quantities Buff XF-57, gave me the earlier color. Spraying this over a dark gray auto primer from a can gave good results. I recently took possession of the Real Color "DAK" set and am anxious to use them. In the jar they appear to be close matches to the RAL shades. G
  26. Scammell Pioneer SV2S

    Just fantastic again Andy, simply wonderful modelling (& photography!) Stunning Scammell! Keith
  27. Matilda MK.III/IV - more weathering

    That's a hard worked Mathilda you have created Cesar, looks great.
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