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corsaircorp replied to Mike's topic in Diorama & AccessoryHello Mike, Very nice one, would look fine beside my USMC Sherman Thank for the review. Sincerely. Corsaircorp
Progress?; Old Yeller. I've gone a bit brighter and lighter this time because my weathering colours have tended to make my builds very dark lately. I'll have to see how this one works out. Thanks for looking in. I hope everyone is ready for a bumpy ride Dan
The Tiran is on hold at the moment, so in the meantime, as I have a lot of the build on my laptop with me, I'm going to do mini WIP on a project that I did a couple of years ago. Being one of those modellers who is forever raiding one kit or another for parts, I tend to find that I'm left with several boxes with incomplete kits in them, usually Shermans. So every so often, I try and use them up and build a complete model from what's left over. I did it before when I built the French M4A3 Champagne and I'm going down a similar route when I build the same tank again, only as it is today. This WIP is about the Israeli M50. Not exactly as the picture on the box depicts as that's HVSS. I'll be doing an early VVSS version. I won't be doing the usual and posting photos of the sprues etc, for obvious reasons, so instead, I'll give a little background to the tank. After the founding of the modern state of Israel, the IDF acquired many second hand Shermans from several different sources. These held their own against the surrounding Arab nations for a while, but it soon became apparent that the 75mm armed tanks were being outclassed, so a search was made for a more powerful main armament. The outcome of this was that they fitted the gun from the AMX-13, the CN75-50 which itself was a development of the German 75mm Kwk42 L/70 of the Panther. The first 50 M50s were converted using VVSS. They were based on M4A4's but the Chrysler Multibank engines were removed and Continental R-975 installed as at this time, the IDF standardised on this engine for all Shermans. Unfortunately the additional weight of the gun and the counterweight on the rear of the turret proved to be too much for the engine and suspension, so all subsequent M50s were converted using HVVS and Cummins diesels. So to the build. I had the Dragon M50 kit and from this I used the upper and lower hull and the turret. The first job was to add the eight bolts on either side of the hull, just in front of the forward suspension back plate. These I punched out of card with a hexagonal punch and die set. Next up was the transmission housing. This came from the early Dragon kit of the Firefly 1c Hybrid. Once the final drive humps were in place, some filler was required around the joints and in some ejector pin marks on the bolted flanges. More tomorrow. Thanks for looking. John.
Vehicles were shipped on roll on roll off vessels so no Chieftain or CR etc hanging in mid air! Roger Found on google BATUS gate guard Mk11 hope this works! http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/tjbear66/media/cGF0aDovMTAwXzI0MTEuanBn/?ref=
As far as sag goes you will have to guesstimate or whatever looks good to you. There wasn't much sag between the return rollers but there was a little and having the upper track run in a perfectly straight line doesn't look natural. This is a Panzer IV but you can see the track sag is subtle and the modeller uses plastic drinking straws. The weathering on the tracks looks great, dirty and rusty but not overwhelming. I have muddied up tracks on a couple of models and it's really easy to go too far and hard to undo after you make a mess. Yours look good to me.
Those track links look a lot like Model Kastens. I used a couple of sets on two Tiger I's I built a while back and yes they are tedious but turn out great and a set of Friulmodels tracks are around Cdn$80 so I have only ever bought one set for a Panther. I built up the Friul tracks just to see how hard it was but I haven't built the Panther or Jagdpanther yet to install them. They were ok but those steel pins are tough on fingers. The Model Kastens were a lot cheaper and they have the realistic sag only working link tracks seem to have, or that look right to me. Red primer is fine but please try the faded 3 color as I think that should look great. I faded the heck out of a Tiger II with the 3 color and it looks really natural to me. I not a fan of the contrasty bright 3 color schemes that seem popular. I don't think the real thing had a camo scheme that didn't at least try to merge with the surroundings and the faded look does that a lot better I believe. Some of that photo etch is just ridiculous. I bought a Griffon set for a Dragon 15cm field gun and threw half away as I just couldn't work with those tiny pieces, I could barely see some of them. Take care, Lloyd
Hi Lloyd, I'm not a great fan of AM track sets for post-WW2 tanks, as for most of them, including the Chieftain, sagging is reduced and anyway only a few lengh of the track is visible with the skirts. Add to this a muddy diorama, and nobody will ever notice that the tracks are the old vynil ones. That's also 30€ to be spent on something else. as for my own build, well... I'm still waiting for a workbench!
cambridge replied to cambridge's topic in Work in Progress - Armourwork is "on hold" cause i'm waiting for an order to arrive since i needed some paints i didn't have for this and my glue and primer are almost over, meanwhile i'm still putting togheter pieces here and there in order to have them ready to paint. i just wanted to say one thing while i wait to add some pictures of the updates: this kit is even more amazing than i thought. the amount of details is insane for the scale, absolutely insane. I've found some walktrough for the Trumpeter 1/16 kit online and i have to confirm is just the same kit scaled down, parts and details looks to be exactly the same. The parts fit togheter nicely. Considering what i see online in other boxes this might be the best 1/48 armor model on the market, and considering is also one of the cheapest i confirm my first impression this is a must buy. I think this model ( and the whole hobbyboss t-34 lineup ) is the perfect tank for diorama makers The smaller scale compared to 1/35 allows you to realize wider scenes in a smaller amount of space, and the amount of internal details allows you to use the model for any diorama you have in mind: you can make a maintenance diorama, with half the tank open and maybe the engine being replaced or something like that. or you can make a damaged tank diorama, with the turret blown off and the inside fully exposed. and so on, whatever you have in mind you can make it. You can open every single hatch realistically as you would on the real tank: driver hatch, captain hatch, loader hatch, engine hatch, radiators hatch. You can open the circular port on the back or remove the whole panel as you would do for heavy maintenance on brakes or gearbox. damn, you can even rotate the armor plates over the engine in both open and close position if you want to simulate a tank under air attack or normal configuration. i'm not even adding details myself, considering the scale i think there's more than enough. Maybe some details would look better if replaced by photoetched parts, but i'm not intending to invest that much effort in this project. The only upgrades i've made at the moment are some cables in the cabin and on the engine and i've sealed the other side of the fuel tanks ( this is an odd feature considering the tank is intended to show its interiors. Also, i've added some magnets to make it easier to open and close the tank.
This model no longer exists other than a bunch of broken up plastic in the landfill. Serious mistake, don't glue the horns on the front of the chassis and install the roof plate as then you can't get the upper hull past the main gun mount to glue the two hulls together. Rather than just removing the horns which I had puttied and smoothed into shape, gluing the hull halves together and re-installing the horns, I sort of lost it and tried to see if a 1/16 scale Jagdtiger could stand up to a size 13 boot with 210lbs behind it. IT DIDN'T. Then a big mess of plastic bits scattered all over, I even found one piece in the aquarium a few days later, not to mention the Cdn$300 plus and at least 6 weeks of work and several bottles of Tamiya acrylics. I'd like to build another Jagdtiger but this time a Dragon 1/35 with no interior.....no interior, can't see it anyway. Note to self, look before leaping as it's really hard to rebuild shattered plastic. Lloyd
I did but we couldn't be bothered to queue to get one. World of Tanks is not something I was familiar with but my brother told me all about it. I may just have to have a delve purely for educational reasons you understand.......... I'm sure she'll love it!
clive_t replied to clive_t's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourHow do people rate Takom kits generally, are they good value for money? What is the mould quality like?
FrancisGL replied to FrancisGL's topic in Ready for Inspection - ArmourThx for your like Onions, cheers mate
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