This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
Thanks for the info man, pretty sure the instructions said it was white, but ill take a second look at them and make the appropriate changes. i haven't done a whole lot of American armor so this type of info is much appreciated. W/ the cupola and tools, etc. I still have a list of smaller details that need to be fixed like previously listed. Mark
Great progress so far! Those driver's compartment interiors are really coming together. Unfortunately, I cannot remember where the radios were in the -M and TOW - sorry. The years haven't been too kind to my memory for those details. Here are some more drawings from the technical manual with some details for the interior. Here is the Annunciator Panel, it is pretty obvious when looking into the compartment through the top hatch. It replaces the idiot lights found on car dashboards. It also had an incredibly annoyingly loud alarm when anything was awry. The body (dark area in the drawing) is OD Green and the light area was white. The lights (items the numbers point to) were red LED's. 32 - Annunciator Panel by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Here is some info on the driver's seat., they were the same in all the vehicles, but I cannot remember what the VC seat in the -M and TOW looked like. They were probably more like the -25 turret seats which had fixed back rests and hinged seats. The seat was on a spring and could rise and fall, the seat bottom could drop down so that it was out of the way when standing in the hatch. The VC in the -M & TOW would spend most of their time standing in the hatch, so having the seat out of the way would be very helpful. The driver's hatch seat was pneumatically raised and lowered with a switch on the drive selector pedestal. The back was hinged to lay down to enable access to the emergency escape hatch on the left side between the driver's compartment and the turret. The seat was surprisingly comfortable for sleeping when the back was laid flat, especially if you put a case of MRE's under the back - it raised the back just enough to keep your head slightly above your waist. 33 - Driver's Seat - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 34 - Driver's Seat - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The two pedestals on the left of the steering wheel have the controls for the driver's seat height, drive selector (4 wheel or 8 wheel drive), hand throttle, the gear selector and the transfer case gear lock. The seat height and drive selector are rotating switches that rotate from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock positions. The hand throttle is a twist operated knob used to adjust the engine idle speed when the engine is running, but the vehicle is not moving. The gear selector is like that found on a car with an automatic transmission. The transfer case gear lock, when engaged, inserted a metal rod between the teeth of the main gears in the transfer case - it was basically a mechanical parking brake. 38 - Drive Selector by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 39 - Transfer Case Gear Lock by semperfi_0313, on Flickr The pneumatic system is self filling via an air compressor in the engine compartment and stores the compressed air in the bottles on the wall to the very left of the driver's compartment. The system takes about 5-10 minutes to fill after starting the engine. The system controlled most of the operating features of the vehicle - trim vane, marine drive propellers, parking brake and driver's seat height. The bottles are connected and store quite a lot of air when full. There is a drain valve on the bottom of the rear bottle, we were supposed to drain the bottles every day so that the condensation that found it's way into the bottle could drain and not rust through the wall of the bottle. I had a bottle rupture once due to not being drained enough - it scared the complete crap out of me. It sounded like a gunshot in the hatch and hissed very loudly as the air leaked out for about 5 minutes. Once the bottles were empty, the parking brake engaged and the vehicle was disabled until maintenance installed a new bottle. The replacement bottle was primer red and contrasted nicely with the other two seafoam green bottles. 35 - Air Bottles by semperfi_0313, on Flickr Another particularly obvious item in the compartment is the driver's night vision periscope. The center of the three periscopes was removable and could be switched out with a night vision periscope. The scope was rested on the left transom when not used. It was secured with a black rubber strap. The scope was electrically powered via a receptacle on the forward edge of the instrument panel. The scope was typical of night vision during the gulf war. It magnified starlight or the IR lamp on the headlight assembly on the front of the vehicle. The scope - we called it a "fish bowl", was a little tricky to use as the green light made it very difficult to judge depth so it was a little like driving by braille. It also hung down quite a bit and reduced the clear space above the steering wheel which let to sore knuckles from smacking it when you turned. The scope also rotated about 25 degrees to the left and right to aid cornering. The top of the scope - the 2 cubes and the angled mirror assembly were NATO green to match the exterior camo paint and the body was white. The plastic cover was bright orange. 36 - Night Vision Periscope - 01 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr 37 - Night Vision Periscope - 02 by semperfi_0313, on Flickr That is probably enough for tonight. Next up will be the steering wheel and the controls mounted to the steering column. If you want anything in particular first, let me know. Arrin
Very interesting, nicely done, its a difficult topic to model as there is a severe lack of good photos of the CVR(T)s that were in the Falklands. There were 3 Scorpions and 3 Scimitars plus one Samson recovery vehicle, all part of 3 Troop, 'B' Sqn, The Blues and Royals in action during the conflict. Most of the other armoured vehicles were lost with the Altantic Conveyor. I did a build of 23A Scorpion a few years back and the build thread is here: In order to get a more accurate version of the Scorpion, you need to modify the front deck and lower the grills, plus there was a field modification to attach a box over one of the grills to capture the hot gases for heating - you can see it on the front left of the vehicle above. I left the pipe off that connected the box to the rear as I could never find good enough photos of the destination of the pipe I've love to build a model of the Samson but I've only ever found one photo of it and it isn't very clear.
Thanks again 😊 @Sairou The inside effects were done buy using color chipping buy painting on lighter shades of grey and to paint blackbrown inside these areas. So basic chipping approach. Then I worked the area with Vallejo wash for grey vehicles, I wanted to buy a grey wash, but I misread the label. Then I applied some brown oil paints here and there and did some streaking with that as well. The idea for the final finish is to have one guy standing on that let down side, so he is bringing dirt and damage to the paint. Yeah might be a bit over done with the almost new appearance of the other side panel. But it is as it is now.
Thanks Lloyd,yes I have used glue to stipple,but now I use Mr Surface 500,Funny they still give you the fuel drums with this kit,though there is not much room to put them on,Had so many sprues left over thought I had miss something.I hate sitting there and watching glue dry,so I go onto the next kit,and I usually let the paint dry overnight,think I would go nuts if I had nothing to do,had been working from age 14,hopeless at school was much better with my hands,had a lovely big home in the country but had to move closer to Hospitals,now live in a home with a concrete yard,I just have to keep myself busy and modeling gives me a great outlet.Cheers. Jim.
Fibreglass pencil. Never heard of them but I'll have a YouTube n see what happens :-) thanks!!! Yeah crazy. Each little hinge is made of 3 pieces, 2 plates 1 pin. 2 hinges per side. That's 6 just there. Another 5 pieces of the large hinge.
Looking really good Chris. The weathering is great, love the ice on the tracks and suspension and like the missing track sections, looks like it's been in action. The figures really set it off, those guys look pretty cold, probably wondering if a hot meal is coming. Take care, Lloyd
Interesting color comparisons. I have always mixed Tamiya XF-49 and XF-20 in various ratios to achieve the more modern color. Adding various quantities Buff XF-57, gave me the earlier color. Spraying this over a dark gray auto primer from a can gave good results. I recently took possession of the Real Color "DAK" set and am anxious to use them. In the jar they appear to be close matches to the RAL shades. G
Gremlin56 replied to PlaStix's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourGreat effect Stix, very subtle too
I would have liked a British Centurion better. But the kit is great, so many well cast details. And always think it like that, it is used by another Nation because it was great That is why I build my first Leopard I in Dutch colours.
Cheers Ben - I hope your back is feeling better and that the internet has improved - I have been having major problems on that front as well. I think a Sherman 'group build' might be next - there are three in that kit. I'm taking a day or two off to ponder my next move. Thanks for all the support on this one - Steve
Interesting method. I use small but strong tweezers. The cement will bond quicker and better if you slightly touch sth else (trash-worthy and old junk plastic) with the tips beforehand (only works if both sides are treated with glue in advance)
Whats a good colour to use for periscope lens (on Russian AFV)? Not planning to used clear.cheers rod
Das Abteilung replied to spoondog13's topic in ModernArmoured glass without any coatings will always have a green tint, darker with more thickness. IR coatings generally seem to be reddish or purplish. Never seen blue. IR lenses will be a dark red. If you use a metallic base coat then several transparent coats will be necessary to give the right depth impression. The visual impression from any distance is generally dark. If your kit has clear periscope etc parts then I would be tempted to paint the inside of the housing dark to give that depth impression and tint the clear parts. You can get pre-cut tinted adhesive film for some kits' optics, or plain sheet for self-cutting. Solves the painting problem.
- Last week
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 41 Members, 2 Anonymous, 199 Guests (See full list)
- Panzer Vor!!!
- Mr B
- Michael Enright
- Stew Dapple